July  14,  R9V. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
35 
V/OKK/o^heWEEK.. 
;  FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — These  should  by  this  time  have 
completed  their  growth,  especially  when  required  for  very  early  work, 
and  must  not  have  more  water  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  from  becoming 
limp,  exposing  fully  to  sun  and  air,  so  as  to  thoroughly  ripen  the  wood 
and  mature  the  buds.  Keep  the  Vines  tree  from  insects,  as  it  is  important 
that  the  leaves  perform  their  functions  to  the  last.  After  the  wood 
becomes  brown  and  hard  the  Vines  may  be  stood  in  front  of  a  wall  with 
a  south  aspect,  placing  the  pots  on  a  board  or  slates,  and  securing  the 
canes  to  the  wall  to  prevent  the  foliage  being  damaged  by  wind. 
Earliest  Planted-out  Vines. — A  somewhat  drier  atmosphere  than  during 
the  swelling  of  the  crop  is  required  for  thoroughly  ripening  the  wood, 
but  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  employ  artificial  heat  to  insure  the  requisite 
warmth,  as  that  can  be  effected  by  regulating  the  ventilators  according 
to  the  weather.  Avoid  a  close  atmosphere,  however,  especially  at  night, 
which  would  have  the  effect  of  inducing  lateral  growths  that  must  be 
restrained,  and  in  the  case  of  vigorous  Vines  there  will  be  danger,  with 
close  stopping,  of  starting  the  main  buds.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  hand 
right  along,  then  there  will  not  be  any  danger  of  late  growths,  and  rest 
can  be  secured  by  keeping  the  house  cool  and  relatively  dry.  Insects, 
however,  must  not  be  allowed  to  gain  a  hold  on  the  foliage,  it  being 
important  that  the  main  leaves  die  off  naturally,  or  where  these  have 
suffered  from  red  spider  other  foliage  must  be  retained  to  utilise  the  sap, 
otherwise  the  pruning  buds  may  start  into  growth  instead  of  remaining 
dormant  until  starting  time. 
Mixed  Houses  for  Early  Forcing. — On  account  of  the  liability  of  Vines 
in  these  to  attacks  of  red  spider,  and  the  length  of  time  the  Grapes  must 
remain  on  the  rods  for  home  use,  we  do  not  advise  large  houses  with  a 
number  of  varieties  of  Vines,  but  structures  only  of  such  size  as  will 
admit  of  a  supply  of  Grapes  for  the  establishment  for  a  period  of  not 
more  than  six  weeks,  and  the  shorter  the  time  the  better  for  the  Vines. 
When  several  varieties  are  grown  in  one  house,  and  ripen  their  fruit  at 
different  times,  the  warm  air  essential  to  the  ripening  of  early  kinds  will 
cause  red  spider  to  increase  on  the  foliage  of  Muscats  and  similar  later 
ripening  sorts  before  they  are  ripe.  This  is  most  disastrous  to  the  current 
crop,  and  also  to  the  next  year’s  prospect  of  Grapes.  Instead  of  a  mixed 
collection  that  would  supply  Grapes  from  May  to  August  inclusive,  it  is 
advisable  to  have  the  several  varieties  that  ripen  about  the  same  time  in 
a  compartment  by  themselves,  so  that  instead  of  one  large  house  two  or 
three  compartments  should  be  provided,  so  that  the  respective  kinds  may 
have  secured  to  them  their  essential  conditions.  In  case  of  an  attack  of 
red  spider,  paint  the  hot-water  pipes  with  a  mixture  of  skim  milk  and 
sulphur,  heating  them  to  190°,  and  keep  at  that  for  about  an  hour,  having 
the  house  closed,  after  which  allow  a  fall  to  the  ordinary  heat.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  overdo  the  vaporisation  with  the  sulphur,  or  it  will 
spoil  such  tender-skinned  varieties  as  Frontignans  and  Muscats,  it  some¬ 
times  causing  brown  spots  on  the  skin  of  black  Grapes,  and  imparts  a 
purple  hue  to  white  Grapes,  therefore  sulphur  applied  to  heated  surfaces 
must  be  done  very  carefully. 
Muscats  Ripening. — When  swelling,  and  in  the  early  stages  of  finishing 
their  fruit,  Muscats  require  liberal  supplies  of  water  and  nourishment. 
They  can  hardly  be  overdone  with  water  at  the  roots  after  the  leaves  are 
full-sized  until  the  Grapes  are  well  advanced  in  ripening,  the  border 
having  thorough  drainage,  and  the  supplies  not  being  given  until  the 
soil  is  becoming  rather  dry.  This  is  imperative  to  avoid  a  sodden  con¬ 
dition  of  the  border,  still  attend  well  to  the  watering  of  inside  borders  ; 
outside  also  in  dry  weather.  Too  much  atmospheric  moisture  is  not  good 
for  Muscats  at  any  time,  and  it  proves  fatal  when  ripening,  causing 
the  berries  to  “spot;”  therefore,  when  the  Grapes  are  nearly  changing 
colour  keep  a  genial  warmth  in  the  pipes,  and  admit  a  little  air 
constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berrhs,  surfacing 
the  borders  inside,  after  a  good  supply  of  water,  with  a  few  inches 
thickness  of  dry  material.  Remember,  Muscats  require  time  and 
assistance  from  fire  heat,  so  as  to  secure  a  night  temperature  of  70°  to  75°, 
85°  to  90“  by  day,  with  abundance  of  air.  They  also  r.  quire  a  rather 
dry  warm  atmosphere,  for  under  no  other  conditions  will  they  attain  to 
that  rich  golden  hue  characteristic  of  their  unapproachable  vinous 
flavour. 
Cucumbers. — If  not  already  done,  a  few  seeds  may  now  be  sown  for 
late  summer  and  early  autumn  produce.  The  plants  from  this  sowing 
will  afford  finer  fruit  in  late  summer  than  those  that  have  been  bearing 
for  a  considerable  time,  as  old  plants  generally  produce  knobbed  or 
seeded  fruits  towards  the  end  of  the  season,  and  are  not  so  handsome 
as  straight,  crisp,  seedless  specimens.  The  plants  will  be  fit  to  plant  out 
in  about  a  month,  and  succeed  admirably  in  frames  with  a  gentle 
bottom  heat,  such  as  may  be  afforded  by  the  least  reduced  materials 
from  spent  hotbeds,  mixed  with  a  little  fresh,  but  not  raw,  stable  litter. 
It  is  desirable  to  have  the  bed  2  or  3  feet  high,  so  that,  after  settling, 
linings  can  be  given  in  late  sammer  and  early  autumn,  so  as  to  have  fruit 
up  to  a  late  period. 
Plants  in  Full  Bearing. — Give  the  needful  attention  in  thinning 
exhausted  growths,  removing  bad  leaves,  stopping,  tying,  and  regulating, 
so  as  to  keep  up  a  succession  of  bearing  wood.  Add  a  little  fresh 
lumpy  soil  to  the  surface  of  the  bed  from  time  to  time,  and  a  light  mulch¬ 
ing  ot  scalded  sheep  droppings,  horse  knobs,  or  cow  manure.  Syringe 
at  closing  time,  or  so  soon  as  safe  in  the  afternoon,  and  maintain  a  good 
moisture  all  day  by  clamping  the  floors  and  walls  in  the  morning,  noon, 
and  early  in  the  evening.  After  a  few  days  of  dull  moist  weather  it  is 
desirable  to  shade,  and  keep  the  house  rather  close  on  the  return  of  bright 
weather.  Supply  liquid  manure  copiously  once  or  twice  a  week,  but  it 
will  not  benefit  plants  badly  rooted  or  sparse  in  foliage.  What  such  need 
is  fresh  soil  or  surface  dressings  of  lumpy  material.  Close  early,  say  at 
85°,  and  so  as  to  advance  to  90“,  95°,  or  100°,  and  only  employ  fire  heat  to 
prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  60°  at  night,  and  maintain  70°  to 
75“  by  day. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Late  Carrots. — Tender  young  Carrots,  whenever  forthcoming,  are 
appreciated,  and  without  much  trouble  they  can  be  had  nearly,  or  quite, 
all  the  year  round.  A  July  sowing  ought  to  play  an  important  part  in 
the  maintenance  of  this  supply.  A  warm  or  moderately  warm  border, 
recently  cleared  of  early  Potatoes,  would  be  a  good  position  for  this  crop. 
Make  the  ground  as  fine  as  possible,  adding  and  mixing  in  leaf  soil  and 
common  sand  if  the  soil  is  naturally  of  a  clayey  binding  nature.  There 
should  be  no  waiting  for  rain,  and  if  the  ground  is  hard,  dry,  and  lumpy, 
give  it  a  good  watering,  and  a  short  time  afterwards  break  down  the 
lumps  with  a  fork,  and  rake.  Draw  shallow  drills  8  inches  to  10  inches 
apart,  and  if  the  soil  is  still  somewhat  dry  moisten  the  drills  prior  to 
sowing  the  seed.  Surplus  seed  of  any  variety’  of  Carrot  may  be  sown 
now,  but  the  Horn  or  stump-rooted  sorts  are  to  be  preferred. 
Celeriac.— This  crop  forms  a  good  succession  to  early  Cauliflowers. 
For  the  latter  the  ground  is  usually  heavily  manured,  and  unless  very 
hard  through  trampling  all  the  preparation  needed  for  Celeriac  is  clearing 
off  rubbish  and  a  deep  hoeing.  It  is  not  a  rank  top-growth  that  is 
desired,  but  rather  the  formation  of  large  Turnip  like  roots,  and  a  firm 
medium  is  the  most  conducive  to  this  end.  There  ought  to  be  no  undue 
delay  in  planting,  waiting  for  a  rain  often  ending  in  the  plants  becoming 
drawn  and  spoilt.  Should  the  ground  be  dry,  open  shallow  wide  drills 
18  inches  apart,  and  well  water  these,  putting  out  the  Celeriac  an  hour  or 
two  later.  Plant  firmly  about  15  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Water  after 
planting,  and  keep  the  plants  constantly  moist  at  the  roots  during  the 
next  month  or  six  weeks. 
Endive. — There  should  be  no  further  delay  in  sowing  the  maincrop 
Endive.  The  green  curled  varieties  are  suitable  for  affording  early 
supplies  of  well-blanched  hearts,  but  the  Improved  Broad-leaved  Batavian 
ought  to  be  the  most  extensively  grown.  A  light,  free-working,  well- 
manured  soil  produces  the  best  Endive,  and  the  seed  may  be  sown  where 
the  reserved  plants  are  to  heart  in.  Abundance  of  plants  and  early  well- 
blanched  hearts  may  be  had  with  little  trouble  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
shallow  drills  drawn  6  inches  apart,  moistening  these  if  at  all  dry  prior 
to  distributing  the  seed.  Plants  should  eventually  be  left  6  inches  apart, 
where  they  will  grow  strongly,  and,  pressing  against  each  other,  be  self¬ 
blanching. 
Latest  Peas. — The  practice  of  sowing  seed  of  the  best  of  the  early 
varieties  of  Peas  directly  it  is  ripe  is  frequently  attended  by  good  results. 
This  season  the  crops  will  be  a  little  late  in  maturing,  but  old  seed  may 
be  substituted,  the  only  difference  being  that  this  does  not  germinate  so 
strongly  as  new.  The  spaces  between  trenches  in  (ended  for  or  already 
occupied  by  late  Celery  answer  well,  but  in  cold  districts  it  is  advisable 
to  locate  beds  of  dwarf  late  Peas  where  they  can  be  protected  with  mats 
whenever  necessary  in  the  autumn.  Have  the  drills  not  less  than  3  inches 
deep,  and  thoroughly  soak  these  with  water  or  liquid  manure  before 
sowing  the  seed. 
Winter  Spinach. — A  first  sowing  ought  to  be  made  about  the  middle  of 
July.  In  some  districts  deferring  sowing  till  August  may  result  in  a 
partial  failure,  owing  to  the  plants  not  being  sutbciently  advanced  in 
growth  before  frosty  weather  sets  in,  while  if  the  July  sowing  is  too  early 
for  a  winter  crop,  it  may  prove  serviceable  in  the  autumn.  Winter 
Spinach  should  have  well-manured  freely-worked  ground.  Draw  drills 
1  foot  apart,  wa  er  these  if  dry,  sow  the  seed  thinly,  and  cover  with  fine 
soil. 
Tomatoes. — Those  against  sunny  walls  and  fences  ought  ere  this  to 
have  one  or  more  bunches  of  fruit  set  on  them,  and  should  be  assisted  to 
continue  in  progress  as  much  as  possible.  If  the  fruit  fails  to  set,  the 
flowers  dropping  prematurely,  defective  root  action,  aod  dryness  of  soil 
are  the  must  probable  causes.  Not  till  the  plants  have  rooted  into  the 
ground,  away  from  the  walls  or  fences,  ought  the  watering  pot  to  be 
suspended,  and  if  the  season  remain  hot  and  dry,  plants  in  the  open  air 
should  receive  the  same  treatment  as  those  planted  in  borders  under 
glass.  Liquid  manure  would  benefit  heavily  cropped  plants,  and  all 
should  have  a  mulching  of  strawy  manure.  Either  confine  the  plants  to 
a  single  stem,  or  lay  in  two  or  more  leaders  so  as  to  thinly  cover  all 
available  wall  or  fence  space.  Remove  superfluous  side  shoots,  and  top* 
the  plants  after  three  or  four  clusters  of  fruit  are  set.  Plants  grown  in 
the  open  must  also  be  closely  attended  to. 
Turnips. — It  is  not  always  safe  to  wait  for  ground  to  be  cleared  of 
early  and  second  early  Potatoes  before  sowing  the  main  crop  Turnips. 
If  the  winter  sets  in  early  and  severely  late  sown  crops  do  not  attain  to  a- 
profitable  state,  and  it  is  well  therefore  to  make  a  sowing  now  and 
another  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  hence,  or  as  soon  as  the  ground  can 
