July  21.  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDEN ER. 
;>d 
itself  at  home,  and  ramble  with  great  freedom  over  the  roof.  If  it  is 
required  for  exhibition  purposes  it  can  be  grown  on  the  roof,  then  taken 
down,  and  trained  on  a  shape.  If  this  method  is  followed  it  is  advisable 
to  train  the  young  shoots  on  small  string,  as  they  are  much  inclined  to 
curl  round  their  support,  and  the  string  can  be  cut  away. 
Propagation  is  readily  effected  by  cuttings  taken  when  the  plant 
commences  to  grow,  and  placed  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat.  The  soil  best 
suited  to  Stephanotis  is  a  mixture  of  two-thirds  peat,  one-third  rich 
fibrous  loam,  and  a  good  sprinkling  of  sand  added  to  make  the  whole 
porous.  When  grown  in  very  strong  heat  it  becomes  a  prey  to  that  filthy 
insect  mealy  bug,  and  if  any  exist  in  a  house  it  is  sure  to  find  its  way 
to  the  plants.  The  best  way  to  destroy  tbe  bug  is  sponging  with  softsoap, 
and  carefully  syringing  with  paraffin  and  water,  which  should  be  kept 
stirred  when  being  used. — S.  S. 
Hujiea  elegans. 
Like  so  many  of  the  numerous  introductions  from  Australia,  these 
desirable  plants  are  extremely  useful  for  decorative  purposes.  Every 
greenhouse  should  contain  a  few  of  them,  for  they  matte  a  pleasing  variety, 
and  their  long  feathery  spikes  are  at  once  distinct,  and  charming  adjuncts 
to  the  list  of  flowering  plants  at  this  season.  H.  elegans  is  the  only 
species  of  the  genus. 
The  plants  are  easy  to  grow,  and  with  ordinary  care  large  specimens 
can  be  had  in  a  year  from  sowing  the  seeds.  The  present  month  is  a 
suitable  one  for  making  a  sowing,  though  I  have  seen  good  plants 
obtained  by  sowing  early  in  September  ;  but  if  large  specimens  are 
required  seeds  should  be  sown  in  July.  Sow  in  pans  of  light  soil,  and 
shade  the  pans  until  the  seedlings  show  through  the  soil,  and  when  the 
young  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  pot  them  singly  into  60’s. 
Keep  them  in  the  greenhouse —preferably  on  the  shelf — till  growing 
freely,  when  they  can  be  removed  to  a  frame  having  a  layer  of  moist  ashes 
for  the  pots  to  stand  on.  The  syringe  can  be  used  with  much  benefit  at 
all  times  except  when  in  flower. 
Transfer  to  larger  pots  as  required,  and  if  they  make  satisfactory 
growth  a  shift  into  10-inch  pots  in  the  spring  is  not  too  large  to  flower 
them  in.  An  ordinary  greenhouse  temperature  suits  them  well  during 
the  winter.  The  compost  I  find  to  suit  them  best  is  a  mixture  of  rich 
loam  and  decayed  manure  in  equal  parts,  with  a  little  coarse  sand  to  insure 
porosity.  Pot  firmly,  and  take  care  they  never  suffer  from  want  of  water 
and  nourishment  at  the  roots.  Being  gross  feeders  occasional  applications 
of  liquid  manure  are  beneficial  to  them  ;  it  helps  the  spikes  to  develop 
and  the  plants  to  retain  their  bottom  leaves. 
Of  pests,  the  worst  are  green  fly,  which  generally  infests  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves.  Dusting  with  tobacco  powder  and  the  free  use  of  the 
syringe  are  the  best  means  of  eradication.  The  plants  must,  however,  be 
frequently  examined  ;  for  if  they  are  neglec  ed  in  this  respect  the  leaves 
quickly  turn  yellow. — Nil  Desperandum. 
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HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Thinning  Apples  and  Pears. — Long  established  trees  have  a  habit  of 
casting  off  a  large  proportion  of  fruit  when  an  abundant  crop  has  set. 
This  is  due  to  various  reasons,  and  is  a  natural  method  of  reducing  the 
fruits  to- a  safe  number  which  the  trees  are  able  to  carry.  Heavy  crops 
overburden  the  trees,  and  there  is  usually  insufficient  nutriment  available 
to  perfect  a  large  crop.  Those  fruits,  therefore,  which  take  the  lead  in 
swelling  have  the  best  chance  of  surviving.  It  is  frequently  the  case, 
however,  that  too  many  fruits  fall,  or  swell  imperfectly  owing  to  the 
space  for  the  extension  of  roots  and  branches  teing  limited.  Thus 
moisture  in  the  soil  is  abstracted  at  an  important  time  when  a  continuous 
supply  is  required  to  render  soluble  the  food  material  present. 
Small  trees  with  a  heavy  crop  are  in  danger  of  bearing  exhaustively  if 
few  fruits  drop  from  the  trees  naturally,  but  this  can  be  obviated  by  a 
course  of  thinning,  finally  reducing  the  fruits  to  one  on  a  spur.  Dessert 
■varieties  especially,  grown  on  cordon,  bushes,  and  pyramids,  may  readily 
have  the  fruits  reduced  with  the  result  of  securing  much  finer  specimens. 
Young  trees  not  well  furnished  with  permanent  wood  ought  to  have  the 
fruit,  if  plentiful,  liberally  thinned. 
Destroying  Insect  Pests. — The  most  troublesome  pests  to  fruit  trees 
are  green,  black,  and  blue  fly  or  aphides,  red  spider,  American  blight, 
and  the  caterpillars  of  various  moths.  Aphides  may  be  destroyed  by 
dipping  or  syringing  infested  shoots  several  times  with  an  effective 
insecticide.  Cordon  and  other  trees  against  walls,  consisting  of  Apples 
and  Fears  chiefly,  are  the  most  troubled  with  the  caterpillars  of  certain 
moths,  which  attack  the  fruit  and  infest  the  leaves.  The  best  remedy  is 
hand-picking.  Insecticides  are  not  of  much  use,  owing  to  the  webs 
closing  the  leaves  together. 
Red  spider  is  prevalent  on  trees  in  hot  positions,  or  which  may  be 
suffering  from  lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots.  Copious  waterings  should 
be  applied  to  the  roots,  following  by  a  mulch,  and  the  infes'ed  foliage 
ought  to  receive  repeated  syringings  with  an  insecticide.  American  blight 
can  only  be  effectually  treated  by  carefully  going  over,  with  a  brush 
•dipped  in  petroleum  or  spirits  of  wine,  all  the  Apple  trees  attacked.  This 
destroys  all  the  blight  it  touches,  but  it  must  not  be  used  loo  freely, 
especially  on  young  wood,  the  tissues  of  which  it  soon  destroys.  This 
pest  is  more  evident  now  than  in  the  winter,  therefore  it  is  easily  located, 
and  measures  directed  to  its  destruction,  but  they  must  also  bo  followed 
up  in  winter.  The  syringe  is  useful  in  maintaining  the  trees  in  a  clean 
condition  after  pests  have  been  subdued. 
Wall  Trees.  Apricots,  Peaches ,  and  Nectarines. — Though  these  trees 
may  have  been  dealt  with  several  times  in  the  matter  of  laying-in  shoots, 
there  probably  will  be  some  regulation  required.  A  proper  selection  of 
young  shoots  must  be  secured  all  over  the  trees,  training  them  in  the 
desired  directions  for  occupying  the  positions  intended  when  the  fruit  has 
been  gathered.  Fruitless  shoots,  however,  may  be  cut  out,  and  other 
useless  parts  dispensed  with  now,  when  the  new  wood  may  at  once  occupy 
the  spaces.  This  thorough  treatment  of  the  trees  renders  them  much  easier 
to  keep  clean,  and  the  wood  has  a  better  chance  of  ripening  perfectly. 
Plums  and  Cherries. — Fan-shaped  trees  are  much  improved  by  laying 
in  young  wood  freely  where  there  is  space  and  cutting  out  the  older. 
Avoid  crowding  in  all  instances,  or  the  objects  sought  will  be  frustrated. 
Of  the  Morello  type  of  Cherries  more  shoots  may  be  laid  in  than  would 
be  advisable  in  the  case  of  dessert  Cherries. 
Outdoor  Figs. — Leave  a  good  selection  of  well  placed  young  growths 
distributed  over  the  trees,  but  do  not  shorten  them  at  all.  The  shoots 
bearing  the  fruit  ought  now  to  be  stopped  two  or  three  leaves  beyond 
the  fruit.  Sappy  wood  breaking  away  in  any  part  rub  or  cut  out  entirely. 
Outdoor  Vines. — The  chief  items  requiring  attention  are  the  stopping 
ot  sub-lateral  shoots  to  one  leaf,  the  lateral  or  side  shoots  having 
previously  been  shortened  to  a  point  a  few  leaves  beyond  the  fruit. 
Canes  for  future  fruiting  may,  if  necessary,  be  laid  in  in  suitable 
positions,  stopping  them  at  about  4  feet,  so  that  the  buds  below  may 
be  well  plumped  up,  but  allow  another  leader  to  extend  on  each. 
Thin  the  bunches  of  fruit  sufficiently  so  that  the  berries  may  swell  to 
a  fair  size.  Afford  water  and  liquid  manure  to  the  roots,  and  mulch  the 
soil  for  conseiving  moisture  in  dry,  hot  weather. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Figs.-  Trees  in  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — These  must  be  kept  free  from 
red  spider  by  syringing  at  least  once  a  da}1,  in  hot  weather  twice  ;  and  if 
this  is  not  sufficient,  employ  an  insecticide.  Afford  liquid  manure  to  the 
roots  to  insure  a  supply  of  nutriment,  and  the  storing  ot  assimilated  matter 
in  the  wood.  Pinching,  to  induce  a  neat  habit  in  young  plants  with  fruit¬ 
fulness,  must  be  attended  to,  regulating  the  stopping  by  the  vigour  of  the 
plants  and  the  varieties.  Where  trees  have  to  be  bought  for  very  early 
forcing  in  the  coming  season  orders  should  be  placed  without  delay,  to 
secure  those  with  thoroughly  ripened  wood  and  duly  prepared  for  the 
purpose.  The  best  varieties  for  early  work  are  Early  Violet  and  St. 
John’s,  Pingo  de  Mel  and  Brown  Turkey— the  first  two  with  small,  and 
the  last  two  large  fruit. 
Second  Crops. — Planted-out  trees  started  about  the  new  year  will  have 
the  second  crop  in  an  advanced  state,  and  it  must  have  a  final  thinning,  if 
not  already  effected,  reserving  those  fruits  near  the  base  of  the  growths, 
which  finish  better  ihan  those  near  the  points.  Attend  regularly  to 
training  and  stopping  the  shoots,  keeping  the  points  well  exposed  to  the 
light.  Train  thinly,  tie  loosely,  and  leave  plenty  of  space  in  the  ligatures 
for  the  shoots  to  swell.  Stop  side  growths  at  the  fifth  leaf,  and  rub  off 
those  not  required.  Afford  water  copiously  through  a  light  mulching  of 
short  lumpy  manure,  none  surpassing  horse  droppings  dulv  sweetened. 
Liquid  manure  will  be  necessary,  according  to  the  vigour  of  the  trees  and 
the  extent  ot  the  rooting  area.  Trees  in  narrow  borders  may  need  it 
every  day,  others  at  longer  intervals.  Forcibly  dislodge  red  spider  by 
syringing  twice  a  day,  which,  with  proper  feeding,  will  occasion  little 
need  of  insecticides  ;  but  scale  mm-t  be  removed  with  a  brush  and  an 
insecticide.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly,  increase  it  early,  close  writh 
plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  allowing  the  heat  to  rise  to  90°,  and  the 
fruit  will  swell  to  a  good  size. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — Those  started  at  the 
new  year  or  before  have  been  cleared  of  fruit,  and  the  wood  on  which  it 
was  borne  removed.  This  and  the  taking  out  of  any  superfluous  growths 
admits  air  and  light,  so  that  the  wood  becomes  hard  and  brown,  and  the 
buds  attain  perfect  formation,  but  this  is  contingent  upon  clean  foliage 
and  proper  supplies  of  nutriment.  Mulching  with  rather  light  lumpy 
manure  an  inch  thick  will  keep  the  surface  mo  st,  the  roots  active, 
prevent  the  soil  cracking,  and  assist  in  the  retention  of  the  foliage  in 
health.  The  buds  will  be  sufficiently  advanced  and  the  wood  matured  to 
allow  the  roof  lights  to  be  removed,  and  this  should  not  be  further 
delayed. 
Succession  Houses. — The  crops  are  ripening  on  trees  that  were  started 
in  February  :  indeed,  the  very  early  varieties  have  been  cleared  of  their 
crops.  As  the  fruit  is  removed  cut  out  the  wood  that  has  borne  it, 
thinning  the  growths  where  they  are  so  close  that  the  foliage  cannot  have 
exposure  to  light  and  air.  Cleanse  the  growths  by  means  of  the  syringe 
or  engine  with  water,  of  dust  and  red  spider  or  other  insects,  using  an 
insecticide  if  necessary.  Keep  the  borders  moist,  not  soddened,  using 
liquid  manure  if  required.  Stop  all  laterals  to  one  joint,  but  where  the 
buds  are  in  an  advanced  condition  allow  a  little  lateral  extension,  which 
prevents  premature  falling  of  the  foliage  by  continuing  the  root  action. 
When  the  buds  are  well  formed,  the  fruit  having  been  cleared  off  the 
trees,  remove  the  roof  lights  if  under  fixed  roofs  ventilate  to  the  fullest 
possible  extent. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Crops.— Trees  started  in  March  have  stoned  the 
fruit.  Draw  the  leaves  aside,  and  raise  the  fruit  by  means  of  laths  with 
its  apex  to  the  light.  Water  the  inside  border,  and  outside  if  inclined  to 
dryness,  affording  liquid  manure  and  a  light  mulch  of  lumpy  material. 
