July  28,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
75 
On  bright  days  the  trees  derive  benefit  from  a  gentle  syringing,  affording 
this  sufficiently  early  that  all  may  be  dry  before  night.  As  soon  as  the 
flower  buds  begin  showing  colour  this  syringing  must  cease.  As  the 
flowers  open  maintain  a  temperature  of  55°  by  night  and  60°  by  day, 
admitting  air  on  all  favourable  occasions,  closing  the  house  early  in  order 
that  all  possible  sun  heat  may  be  stored  up,  this  acting  as  a  preventive 
against  unduly  heating  the  pipes. 
Setting. — To  insure  a  good  set  of  fruit,  the  atmosphere  of  the  house 
must  be  kept  drier,  and  more  air  admitted.  The  blooms  should  be  gone 
oyer  at  midday  with  a  camers-hair  brush  or  rabbit’s  tail,  as  a  means  of 
distributing  the  pollen.  It  will  be  found  some  varieties  are  shy  at 
producing  this,  and  it  is  best  in  such  cases  to  take  the  pollen  from  varieties 
freely  producing  it  and  apply  it  to  the  shy  ones. 
Disbudding. — This  is  a  very  important  item  in  Peach  culture  ;  it 
consists  in  removing  all  the  buds  with  the  exception  of  those  intended  for 
fruiting  next  year.  Generally  speaking,  it  is  performed  at  three  different 
operations  ;  the  first  when  the  buds  are  very  small,  removing  half  or 
more  at  intervals  along  the  growth  ;  the  second  about  a  fortnight  after¬ 
wards,  removing  half  of  the  remainder  ;  and  the  third  about  a  week  after 
that  time,  pinching  those  that  remain  to  an  eye  or  so,  with  the  exception 
of  the  basal  bud,  which  must  not  be  stopped  in  any  case,  as  this  growth 
produces  fruit  the  following  year.  At  the  third  operation  the  growths 
will  be  attaining  fair  size,  and  it  is  the  safer  to  pinch  them  than  toiub  the 
growth  off,  as  in  doing  so  the  fruit-bearing  wood  may  receive  injury. 
Watering. — No  hard-and-fast  rule  can  be  laid  down  for  this,  much 
depending  on  the  nature  of  the  soil,  which  can  only  be  learnt  by  careful 
observation.  It  is  not  good  practice  to  let  the  border  get  thoroughly  dry 
at  any  time,  bud-casting  being  one  of  the  evils  accruing  from  this.  As  a 
rule,  if  the  border  receives  a  thorough  watering  on  the  house  being  started 
it  should  suffice  until  the  fruits  are  set,  then  another  one  to  last  over  the 
stoning  period,  and  from  this  on  to  the  time  when  ripening  commences  at 
intervals  of  about  three  w-eeks.  Manure  may  be  advantageously  applied 
at  all  waterings,  especially  after  stoning  has  taken  place  and  the  fruits 
are  on  their  second  swelling.  A  dressing  of  lime  to  the  borders,  watering 
it  in,  will  be  found  very  beneficial.  After  the  crop  is  gathered  do  not  let 
the  trees  suffer  for  water,  but  continue  to  give  thorough  soakings  until  the 
fall  of  the  leaf,  these  at  intervals  as  may  be  deemed  necessary. — SEMPEB. 
(To  be  continued.) 
WORK, forthe  WEEK, . ' 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  F'/rcing. — The  canes  for  starting  in  November 
to  ripen  Grapes  in  March  or  April  ought  now  to  have  the  wood  thoroughly 
ripe  and  the  buds  plump.  If  not,  keep  the  house  rather  warmer  by  day, 
80°  to  85°,  closing  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  90°  or  95°,  and  throw 
the  house  open  at  night.  The  foliage  must  be  well  exposed  to  light,  and 
as  near  the  glass  as  possible  without  touching.  Supply  water  or  liquid 
manure  in  the  case  of  Vines  not  inclined  to  luxuriance  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp,  but  do  not  give  it  until  the 
soil  is  getting  dry. 
Lateral  growths  must  l»e  kept  in  check,  leaving  no  more  than  are 
absolutely  necessary  to  appropriate  the  sap  excess,  and  so  prevent  the 
principal  eyes  from  starting.  When  sufficiently  ripened,  as  they  are 
when  the  wood  becomes  brown  and  hard  and  the  buds  prominent,  they 
should  be  removed  to  a  position  outdoors  in  the  full  sun,  standing  on 
boards  or  slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall,  fence,  or  building,  securing  the 
canes  to  the  face  of  the  wall,  only  giving  water  to  prevent  the  leaves 
falling  prematurely.  In  this  position  they  will  rest?  even  if  the  leaves  are 
not  actually  shed,  provided  they  are  not  kept  too  moist.  When  the  leaves 
turn  yellow  commence  reducing  the  laterals,  and  when  the  leaves  have 
fallen,  prune,  cutting  the  laterals  close  to  the  cane,  but  without  injury  to 
the  buds,  and  cut  the  cane  back  to  the  required  length,  or  from  8  to  8  feet. 
Dress  all  the  cuts,  and  only  those  parts  carefully  with  patent  knotting. 
The  Vines  should  then  be  placed  in  any  cool,  airy,  dry  place  until  required 
for  forcing.  Dryness  at  the  roots  is  desirable,  but  the  soil  must  not  l>e 
allowed  to  become  dust  dry,  and  the  pots  should  be  protected  from  frost 
by  some  dry  material  placed  round  and  over  them.  It  will  not  of  course 
be  necessary  if  frost  has  not  access  to  the  structure. 
Earliest  Houses.  — A  dry  atmosphere  promotes  ripening  of  the  wood 
and  maturing  of  the  buds.  Laterals  must  be  kept  stopped,  the  house 
cool,  and  the  soil  moderately  dry.  Inside  borders,  however,  miy  require 
watering,  in  order  to  prevent  the  soil  cracking,  and  to  keep  the  roots 
healthy.  In  all  cases  there  must  be  sufficient  moisture  in  the  border  to 
maintain  growth  in  the  laterals  and  prevent  the  premature  ripening  of 
the  foliage.  A  moderate  extension  will  suffice  to  keep  the  principal  buds 
from  being  started. 
Where  the  Vines  are  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition  preparation  should 
be  made  for  lifting,  getting  fresh  loam  and  clean  drainage,  so  that  the 
work  can  be  done  quickly  when  begun.  One  part  of  the  border  only 
ought  to  be  operated  upon  at  a  time,  the  inside  one  year  and  the 
outside  tho  next,  so  as  to  prevent  loss  of  crop.  The  roots  should  be  lifted 
and  laid  in  fre.-h  compost  nearer  the  surface  whilst  there  is  foliage  on  the 
Vines,  therefore  the  work  in  this  case  ought  not  to  be  delayed  beyon 
the  early  part  of  September  in  the  case  of  Vines  that  are  started  early  in 
December.  The  V  nes  w  ill  need  pruning  by  the  middle  of  September, 
or  when  lifted  a  little  later. 
Houses  Required  for  Early  For' in;/. —  Vines  that  have  not  been  started 
early  will  need,  as  soon  as  the  crop  is  off,  to  be  thoroughly  syringed  to 
cleanse  them  from  dust  and  insects,  and  if  there  is  any  doubt  about  the 
ripeness  of  the  wood  it  will  be  necassary  to  keep  the  house  rather  close 
by  day,  but  with  sufficient  ventilation  to  cause  evaporation  and  allow  the 
moisture  to  escape.  Give  no  more  w  ater  to  the  border  than  w  ill  prevent 
the  foliage  becoming  limp.  If  the  weather  prove  cold  and  wet  employ 
fire  heat  in  the  daytime,  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°,  with 
moderate  ventilation,  and  turn  the  heat  off  at  night  to  allow  the  pipes  to 
cool,  increasing  the  ventilation  so  as  to  induce  a  thorough  draught,  and 
this  will  soon  cause  the  wood  to  harden  and  the  buds  to  plump,  insuring 
rest,  which,  for  Vines  to  be  started  in  December,  should  be  complete  from 
the  middle  to  the  end  of  September.  When  the  wood  is  ripe  ventilate 
fully  day  and  night. 
Vines  Cleared  of  Crops. — Through  Grapes  hanging  the  Vines  often 
become  infested  with  red  spider,  ana  by  growing  plants  in  the  house  they 
are  attacked  by  scale  and  mealy  bug,  the  dry  atmosphere  also  encouraging 
thrips.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  Vines,  fine  of  the  best  means  is  to  spray 
them  by  means  of  an  atomiser  with  methylated  spirit.  The  slightest 
amount  suffices  to  annihilate  the  pests  named,  operating  in  the  evening  or 
on  a  dull  day  with  some  air  on.  Vaporisation  with  nicotine  essence  also 
answers  well,  operating  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings,  and  repeat¬ 
ing  in  a  week  or  ten  days.  Forcible  syringing*  will  free  the  Vines  from 
dust  and  many  pests.  Keep  the  laterals  fairly  in  hand,  not  closely 
pinched,  unless  the  Vines  are  very  vigorous  and  not  ripening  the  wood 
kindly,  when  keeping  the  house  rather  dry  at  night,  with  all  the  ventila¬ 
tion  possible,  and  somewhat  close  and  warm  by  day,  will  promote  the 
maturing  ot  the  wood  and  buds.-  In  stopping  vigorous  Vines  regard  must 
be  had  to  the  principal  buds,  for  when  all  growth  is  removed  as  made  it 
may  cause  them  to  start,  which  must  be  avoided  by  allowing  a  little 
lateral  growth,  and  keeping  the  soil  dry  at  their  roots  to  the  extent  of 
causing  the  foliage  to  become  a  little  limp.  Weakly  Vines  -hould  be  fed 
with  liquid  manure  and  the  Vines  allowed  to  extend,  but  whatever 
extension  is  permuted  the  extraneous  foliage  must  not  in  any  way  inter¬ 
fere  with  the  free  access  of  light  and  air  to  the  principal  leaves,  which 
must  be  kept  healthy  and  thus  appropriate  some  of  the  food,  and  store  it 
in  the  buds  and  adjacent  wood.  Free  ventilation  will  be  necessary  day 
and  night. 
Grapes  Ripening. — Whilst  colouring  many  Grapes  swell  considerably, 
therefore  do  not  allow  any  deficiency  of  moisture  in  the  border.  Give  if 
necessary  a  good  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure,  and  in  the  early  part 
of  the  day,  so  that  superfluous  moisture  may  escape  before  night. 
Heavily  cropped  Vines  should  be  allowed  plenty  of  time,  and  supplied 
with  liquid  manure,  which,  if  it  does  not  help  the  current  crop,  will 
prevent  the  exhaustion  of  the  Vines.  A  good  rest  at  night  ir>  a  tempe¬ 
rature  of  60°  to  65°  with  air  is  a  great  aid  to  Vines  taxed  to  the  utmost 
by  weight  of  Grapes.  A  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  also  is 
essential  to  the  health  of  the  Vines,  sprinkling  the  paths  and  borders 
occasionally,  and  if  possible  al.ow  the  laterals  to  extend,  but  full  or  over¬ 
cropped  Vines  can  rarely  cater  for  more  than  the  principal  leaves  and 
Grapes.  Admit  air  constantly,  enough  with  a  gentle  heat  in  the  pipes 
to  insure  a  circulation,  and  maintain  a  temperature  by  day  of  70°  to  75°, 
keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°,  or  90°  with  sun,  and  full 
ventilation. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Broccoli  and  Winter  Greens. — The  drought  has  delayed  planting,  and 
as  a  consequence  large  numbers  of  Broccoli  plants  have  been  left  standing 
thickly  in  seed  beds,  where  they  have  become  decidedly  leggy.  Another 
result  of  the  drojght  is  the  early  maturation  of  the  crops  of  early  and 
second  early  Potatoes,  so  that  these  can  be  dug  at  once  and  good  breadths 
of  ground  be  liberated  for  Broccoli  and  Winter  Greens.  If  the  weather 
still  keeps  hot  and  dry  the  planting  of  Broccoli  and  Winter  Greens, 
including  Brussels  Sprouts  and  Borecole,  ought  yet  to  be  proceeded  with, 
or  the  best  part  of  the  growing  season  will  be  missed.  Before  drawing 
plants  from  seed  beds,  or  lifting  with  a  trowel  from  nursery  beds,  give  the 
ground  about  them  a  thorough  soaking  with  water.  For  dwarf  plants 
open  shallow  drills  2  feet  to  3  feet  apart,  and  water  these  prior  to  planting, 
as  it  is  not  possible  to  plant  properly  on  dry  lumpy  ground.  Instead  of 
sinking  long-stemmed  plants  deeply  into  holes  formed  with  a  dibbler,  the 
better  plan  is  to  lay  them  in  sloping  trenches  opened  with  a  spade,  just 
leaving  the  head  clear  of  the  soil.  Distribute  a  little  fine  soil  over  the 
roots,  making  it  firm,  but  give  a  thorough  soaking  of  water  before  levelling 
the  ground  and  opening  the  next  trench. 
Cabbage. — Most  districts  have  their  own  time  for  sowing  seed  of 
Cabbage,  and  have  their  popular  varieties  also.  If  we  have  a  showery 
time  soon,  then  thanks  to  the  warmth  in  the  ground  the  seed  will 
germinate  quickly  and  the  plants  grow  rapidly,  proving  early  enough 
for  most  localities.  There  ought,  however,  to  be  no  undue  delay  in 
sowing,  especially  in  the  later  colder  districts,  the  first  week  in  August 
answering  well  for  warm  soils  and  early  local  ties.  Broadcast  sowing  is 
preferable  to  distributing  the  seed  in  drills,  but  stirring  it  in  with  a  rake 
is  not  the  best  plan.  Make  the  ground  fine  arid  level,  water  freely  through 
a  coarse  rose  soon  after  sowing  the  seed  thinly  and  evenly,  and  cover 
lightly  with  sifted  soil,  not  watering  again.  If  a  first  sow  ing  fail  from 
any  cause  sow  more  seed  at  once,  and  a  second  sowing  is  also  advisable 
in  any  case,  the  plants  from  this  sometimes  proving  more  reliable  than 
those  raised  earlier. 
