August  4,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
95- 
WOKK/mi™  WEEK.. 
a 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Strawberries. —  Young  Stock. — The  stock  in  small  pots,  turves,  or 
otherwise  being  propagated  must  receive  attention  in  watering  during 
dry  weather  until  established.  Those  in  pots  or  turves,  which  are  well 
rooted  and  have  been  detached  from  the  parent  plants,  may  be  placed 
closely  together  on  a  moist  base  of  coal  ashes  where  water  can  be  con¬ 
veniently  given  them.  Young  plants  established  in  the  soil  outside  or 
between  the  rows  do  not  suffer  from  want  of  water  as  a  rule,  and  will 
only  need  a  soaking  previous  to  lifting  for  planting,  and  then  only  if  the 
soil  is  very  dry. 
Strawberry  Planting — Preparing  Ground. — Thorough  preparation  of  the 
soil  is  necessary  when  forming  a  new  plantation,  whether  for  a  long  or  a 
short  period.  The  ground  should  at  least  be  well  dug  and  moderately 
manured.  Sometimes  the  preparation  can  be  best  effected  by  liberally 
manuring  and  deeply  cultivating  early  in  the  season  a  plot  of  ground  for 
another  crop,  such  as  early  Potatoes.  These  may  all  be  lifted  by  the  early 
part  of  August,  the  ground  firmed  and  made  ready  for  planting  when 
enough  rain  has  fallen  to  moisten  it  so  that  the  plants  can  make  a  free 
start.  Soils  differ  in  character,  however,  and  demand  special  treatment. 
Light  Soil. — Very  light  soils,  especially  if  shallow,  are  the  most 
difficult  to  deal  with,  owing  to  their  drying  so  quickly.  The  applica¬ 
tion  of  clay  or  marl  improves  them,  but  it  requires  time  and  trouble  for 
these  materials  to  be  introduced,  which  is  best  done  the  previous  winter. 
Where  chalk  is  plentiful  this  may  be  added,  and  it  will  improve  the 
capacity  of  the  soil  to  retain  moisture.  Well  decayed  vegetable  compost, 
decomposed  cow  manure,  and  other  humic  matters  are  excellent  additions 
for  the  purpose  of  increasing  and  maintaining  permanent  fertility ;  this 
also  including  the  power  to  retain  moisture.  After  the  soil  has  been 
prepared  tread  it  firmly. 
Heavy  Soil. — Heavy  soils  are  not  desirable  until  they  have  been  brought 
into  a  proper  state  of  cultivation,  whereby  air  can  penetrate  the  particles 
freely  and  the  surplus  water  drain  readily  away.  Stubborn  clays  may  be 
made  suitable  by  burning  a  portion  of  the  clay,  mixing  it  with  the 
remainder  and  giving  thorough  cultivation,  which  will  include  deep  digging 
and  breaking  up  the  subsoil.  Many  soils  which  are  only  heavy  and 
unsuitable  because  of  non-cultivation  may  be  much  improved  by  rough 
digging  the  previous  winter,  to  allow  the  fro->t  full  play  in  breaking  it 
down  and  pulverising  it.  An  excellent  addition  to  heavy  soil  is  charred 
refuse,  which  consists  of  wood  ashes  and  charcoal  mainly.  Road  scrapings 
and  any  accumulated  gritty  material  act  mechanically  in  lightening 
retentive  soils.  In  extremely  wet  soils  drainage  will  be  necessary. 
Medium  Soil. — Soils  which  are  neither  heavy  nor  light  still  require 
thorough  preparation  in  order  to  maintain  them  in  the  necessary  fertile 
condition  which  will  insure  Strawberries  doing  well.  Moderately  deep 
cultivation  improves  the  soil,  though  Strawberries  are  surface-rooting. 
An  application  of  farmyard  manure  may  be  given  where  the  soil  is  not 
in  good  heart.  Trenching  need  not  be  resorted  to  unless  the  ground  is 
very  foul,  requiring  strong  measures  to  eradicate  deep-rooting  weeds.  In 
trenching,  however,  the  mistake  must  not  be  made  of  bringing  unsuitable 
subsoil  to  the  top,  and  burying  the  best  surface  material  below. 
Planting. — The  specially  prepared  early  plants  rooted  in  pots  and 
turves  are  the  best  to  insert  for  providing  the  most  profitable  crops  next 
season.  The  earlier  they  are  placed  in  their  permanent  quarters  the 
better  now,  as  they  should  be  well  established  before  winter.  Straw¬ 
berries  like  firm  ground,  therefore  light  soil  especially  must  be  made 
tolerably  firm.  This  may  be  done  by  well  treading  or  rolling,  but  only 
when  the  surface  is  dry.  Riant  in  rows  2  feet  to  feet  apart,  and  the 
plants  15  inches  asunder  in  the  rows,  taking  into  account  the  vigour  of 
the  variety  and  the  richness  of  the  soil. 
Varieties. — It  is  advisable  to  carefully  test  any  variety  before  planting 
largely.  The  same  varieties  do  not  always  succeed  alike  on  every  kind 
of  soil  and  situation.  Royal  Sovereign  has  been  found  to  be  one  of  the 
best  for  general  purposes,  and  follows  quickly  in  ripening  upon  Laxton’s 
Earliest  of  All.  Leader  and  Monarch  are  fine  midseason  varieties. 
Waterloo  and  Latest  of  All  are  best  for  prolonging  the  season  to  a  late 
date. 
Treatment  of  Established  Reds.— After  the  fruit  has  been  gathered,  beds 
which  are  to  be  retained  for  future  crops  must  receive  attention  in 
thinning  out  crowded  runners  if  more  young  plants  are  required.  If  no 
more  are  wanted  cut  away  all  runners  closely.  Clear  off  weeds  and  loose 
strawy  material.  It  is  not  profitable  to  retain  beds  too  long,  modern 
methods  of  culture  proving  that  the  best  crops  are  obtained  from  strong 
young  plants  from  one  to  three  years  old.  The  annual  system  of  culture 
as  practised  by  some  cultivators  may  be  adopted  only  in  the  case  of 
varieties  which  give  heavy  crops  of  fine  fruit  the  first  season,  the  plants 
being  then  discarded  for  young  ones,  which  must  be  rooted  and  planted 
early. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — The  trees  are  now  ripe  in  wood  and  plump  in  bud. 
Any  undue  excitement  will  cause  the  trees  to  start  into  growth,  which 
must  be  guarded  against  by  exposing  the  trees  to  atmospheric  influences, 
this,  with  a  little  lateral  growth,  being  the  best  means  of  averting  pre¬ 
mature  growth.  The  border  must  be  kept  properly  moist  by  judicious- 
supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees.  Subdue  red  spider 
by  an  occasional  washing  with  the  garden  engine  or  syringe,  and  the 
prompt  use  of  an  insecticide  in  case  of  an  attack  from  black  fly. 
Cucumbers. — Pot  the  seedlings  for  autumn  fruiting  as  they  become  fit 
pinching  out  the  point  above  the  second  rough  leaf  of  such  as  are 
required  for  pits  or  frames.  Before  planting  thoroughly  cleanse  the 
structure  and  remove  all  old  soil.  Prepare  fermenting  materials  to  afford 
bottom  heat  to  plants  in  pits  and  frames.  A  suitable  compost  consists  of 
light  turfy  loam,  a  sixth  part  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  and  a  tenth  of 
charcoal  thoroughly  incorporated.  Fire  heat  is  not  necessary  in  bright 
weather,  yet  in  prolonged  dull  periods  a  low  temperature  induces  stunted 
yellow  fruits,  canker  at  the  collar,  and  mildew  on  the  foliage.  In  such 
weather  employ  a  gentle  fire  heat  at  night,  and  by  day  if  dull  and  cold. 
Upon  a  return  to  bright  weather  after  a  dull  period  shade  from  bright 
sun,  so  as  to  prevent  flagging,  which  wastes  the  energies  of  the  plants. 
Attend  twice  a  week  to  stopping  and  regulating  the  growths,  and  keep 
up  a  succession  of  bearing  wood  by  removing  exhausted  and  replacing 
with  young  fruitful  growths.  Ventilate  at  75°,  keep  through  the  day  at 
80°  to  90°,  and  close  so  as  to  keep  the  latter  heat,  with  an  advance  of 
5°  to  10°  well  into  the  afternoon  and  evening.  Where  only  one  house  is 
at  command  for  this  purpose,  and  Cucumbers  are  wanted  during  the 
winter  months,  seed  should  now  be  sown  so  as  to  secure  strong  plants  for 
planting  out  in  September,  which  will  allow  of  their  being  well  estalished 
and  a  good  growth  made  before  the  setting  in  of  cold  dull  weather.  The 
plants  cannot  be  grown  too  sturdily  from  the  appearance  of  the  seed' 
leaves,  nor  have  too  much  light,  with  moderate  ventilation,  to  insure  a 
solidified  growth  and  plenty  of  stored  matter. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Trees. — Those  started  in  December 
or  early  in  January  will  soon  part  with  some  of  the  foliage,  but  it  must 
not  be  accelerated  by  the  roots  being  deprived  of  moisture.  The  soil 
should  be  kept  in  a  moist,  yet  not  a  saturated  condition,  as  the  latter  may 
cause  premature  growth,  and  that  must  be  guarded  against.  As  a  safe¬ 
guard  against  starting  the  blossom  buds,  allow  such  lateral  extension  as- 
is  necessary  to  appropriate  the  sap  in  excess  of  the  requirements,  a  few 
green  and  unripe  laterals  doing  that  perfectly.  With  the  trees  exposed- 
the  rain  will  not  cause  premature  growth,  because  the  air  is  cool,  and  it 
has  a  beneficial  and  invigorating  tendency.  Early  forced  trees  do  not 
usually  make  strong  growths,  and  they  form  far  too  many  blossom  buds, 
therefore  the  pruning  requires  to  be  carefully  performed,  as  many  shoots 
are  studded  with  that  description  of  buds,  with  wood  buds  only  at  the 
base  and  extremity,  and  it  is  necessary  to  retain  a  wood  bud  at  the  latter 
point,  not  cutting  back  next  year’s  bearing  wood  unless  the  shoots  are,  of 
great  length.  Weakly  trees  require  the  weaker  growths  cut  out,  so  as  to 
impart  more  vigour  to  those  retained.  Some  trees  grow  too  vigorously, 
and  must  be  lifted.  Weakly  trees  should  have  the  old  soil  carefully 
removed  from  amongst  the  roots,  supplying  fresh  turfy  loam.  These 
operations  ought  to  be  performed  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  mature,  and 
before  ihey  fall  from  the  trees,  syringing  the  latter,  and  shading  whilst 
the  work  is  in  progress,  and  for  a  few  days  afterwards  if  the  weather  is 
bright. 
Succession  Houses, — Cut  away  the  shoots  that  have  borne  fruit,  unless 
required  for  extension,  and  all  shoots  where  too  crowded  should  be 
thinned.  Keep  the  foliage  clean  and  healthy  as  long  as  possible.  With 
the  freer  access  of  light  and  air  the  buds  will  form  perfectly  and  the  wood 
ripen  thoroughly,  provided  attention  is  given  to  a  due  supply  of  water  at 
the  roots.  The  house  will  need  full  ventilation  day  and  night,  and  where 
the  roof  lights  are  movable,  and  the  trees  not  very  vigorous,  they  may 
be  removed  when  the  buds  arc  sufficiently  plumped.  Where  the  fruits  are 
ripening  a  free  circulation  of  air  will  advance  the  quality  considerably, 
supplying  sufficient  water  to  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp,  and 
securing  air  moisture  by  damping  the  floors  and  borders  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon.  A  slight  shade  is  sometimes  beneficial  when  the  sun  is 
powerful,  and  the  apex  of  the  fruit  fully  exposed  to  its  rays  beneath  the 
large  panes  of  glass,  to  prevent  the  fruit  ripening  too  quickly  and 
becoming  discoloured  there.  Ants  are  sometimes  troublesome,  eating 
into  the  choicest  fruits,  and  strenuous  efforts  must  bo  made  to  keep  them 
at  bay. 
Late  Houses. — The  wood  is  best  laid  in  thinner  than  is  customary  with 
trees  in  earlier  houses,  so  as  to  give  it  a  better  chance  to  ripen,  and  the 
foliage  is  certain  to  assimilate  more  food  and  store  it  up  in  the  wood, 
whilst  the  buds  are  properly  formed.  Attend,  therefore,  to  thinning  and 
regulating  the  summer  growths.  Strive  to  secure  an  even  spread  of 
moderately  strong  short-jointed  wood.  Ventilate  freely  in  the  early  part 
of  the  day,  allow  a  good  heat  from  the  sun  through  the  day,  and  close 
so  as  to  run  up  to  85°.  Sun  heat  will  not  do  any  harm  after 
evaporation  has  been  going  on  for  some  time,  but  it  is  desirable  to  admit 
a  little  air  before  nightfall  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to  escape,  and 
tha  gradual  cooling  of  the  house  will  insure  rest.  Early  ventilation  is 
essential  for  the  solidification  of  the  growth.  ]•  orcible  syringings  will 
keep  the  trees  free  from  red  spider,  and  should  be  continued  until  the 
fruit  commences  to  ripen.  Keep  the  borders  well  supplied  with  Hater  or 
liquid  manure. 
Correction. — We  regret  to  observe  that  in  our  report  of  the  last 
meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  we  referred  to  Messrs. 
Wm.  Paul  &  Son  as  of  Cheshunt,  whereas  the  headquarters  of  this  firm, 
are,  as  everyone  knows,  at  V  altham  Cross. 
