114 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  11,  1898. 
ront,  and  in  each  case  they  range  from  10  to  12  feet  in  length.  The  front 
border  is  2^  feet  wide  and  2  feet  deep,  having  several  inches  of  drainage 
or  rubble  beneath.  The  soil  consists  of  Banstead  loam,  lime  rubbish, 
charcoal,  and  a  little  crushed  bone.  This  is  made  pretty  solid.  Limited 
as  is  the  root  area  it  seems  to  be  ample  at  present,  as  the  trees  make  almost 
too  strong  wood  growth.  In  a  year  or  two  it  is  evident  this  house  of 
Cherries  will  be  a  very  admirable  and  interesting  one.  The  varieties 
include  the  best  known  ones,  fourteen  in  all,  and  planted  to  secure  a 
long  season’s  succession.  I  have  the  names,  but  they  need  not  now  be 
furnished. 
Outdoor  Strawberries  do  fairly  well  on  the  very  sandy  soil,  but  some 
plants  die  off  very  much  in  the  second  year.  Noble  is  grown  as  a 
yearling  variety  exclusively,  the  runners  being  laid  direct  into  5-inch 
pots,  then  when  removed  the  old  bed  is  destroyed,  a  fresh  one  of  three 
' v!^8 ,  an^.ak°u^  5  feet  wide  being  planted  in  a  sheltered  place.  Round 
this  bed  is  fixed  in  the  early  spring  boards  as  sides  and  ends,  and  on 
these  lights  are  placed  to  protect  the  bloom  and  help  to  ripen  the  fruit. 
In  that  way  a  fine  crop  is  obtained  just  before  the  exposed  outdoor 
earliest  are  ready.  A  very  useful  arrangement.  Vegetables  do  well, 
notwithstanding  the  porous  nature  of  the  soil.  Mr.  Conway  speaks  in 
warm  praise  of  Sutton’s  new  Pea,  Early  Giant.  He  said  that  he  sowed 
it  ten  days  later,  and  he  gathered  from  it  ten  days  earlier  than  he  did 
from  William  the  First,  and  such  very  superior  pods.  Asparagus  is  finely 
grown,  and  seems  to  like  the  sandy  soil  of  Ham  as  well  as  it  does  the 
sand  of  the  seashore.  Plan's  put  out  in  rows  3  feet  apart  and  2  feet 
apart  in  the  rows  have  ample  room  certainly,  yet  so  strong  is  the  growth 
that  not  a  foot  too  much  seems  to  be  given.  Any  method  whereby  Aspa¬ 
ragus  growth  can  be  retarded  so  as  to  materially  lengthen  the  season 
would  be  heartily  welcomed  here.  There  is  a  fine  collection  of  hardy 
plants  at  Jlam  House,  but  there  is  no  ordinary  bedding  or  summer  flower 
gardening.  Nothing  of  that  description  is  tolerated. — A.  D. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Dwarf  Poinsettias. 
No  plants  are  more  useful  for  furnishing  in  winter  than  Poinsettias, 
especially  if  they  are  grown  dwarf.  To  obtain  plants  about  a  foot  high, 
the  cuttings  should  bo  inserted  in  small  60’s  about  the  second  week  in 
August,  and  the  stronger  the  cuttings  chosen,  the  better  will  be  the 
oral  bracts,  that  is  provided  the  plants  are  managed  properly. 
The  only  difficulty,  from  my  experience,  in  raising  dwarf  Poinsettias 
is  to  retain  the  foliage  until  the  plants  are  fairly  rooted.  If  the  cuttings 
are  stout  and  vigorous  the  leaves  are  consequently  strong,  and  they  are 
liable,  if  exposed  to  the  sun  for  a  short  time,  to  fall ;  this  will  also  be 
the  case  if  kept  in  a  low,  dry  temperature.  The  best  plan  is  to  plunge 
the  pots,  as  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  inserted,  into  a  good  bottom  heat 
and  keep  them  well  syringed  and  shaded  until  they  are  rooted,  when 
they  may  be  shifted  into  5-inch  pots.  It  will  be  advisable  to  shade  them 
again  for  a  few  days  until  they  are  established.  When  inserting  cuttings 
it  will  greatly  encourage  the  emission  of  roots  if  a  layer  of  sand  is  put  at 
the  base  of  each. 
The  plants  will  require  very  careful  attention  in  the  way  of  watering 
until  they  are  well  rooted,  when  stimulants  may  be  given  regularly  ;  the 
synnge  must  be  used  as  often  as  the  weather  permits.  To  avoid  letting 
the  plants  become  drawn  they  must  be  kept  as  close  to  the  glass  as 
possible  in  a  temperature  of  about  55°  until  the  bracts  show  colour,  when 
the  temperature  should  be  increased  a  little.  The  soil  best  suited  to 
oinsettias  is  fibrous  loam  and  leaf  mould  in  about  equal  proportions,  and 
one-third  peat  with  a  sprinkling  of  silver  sand.  By  growing  Poinsettias 
as  described  last  year  we  obtained  bracts  on  our  dwarf  plants  14  and 
lb  inches  across. — S.  S. 
Early  and  Late  Peas. 
Ii  is  the  aim  of  all  good  gardeners  to  secure  crops  as  early  and  as 
ate  as  possible,  but  perhaps  a  good  dish  of  Peas  from  the  open  ground 
ru  j  1  %eeli  5n  November  >8  a  record.  This,  however,  was  accom¬ 
plished  at  Luton  Hoo  last  season,  and  bad  the  weather  remained  open 
"r  ai\other  fortnight  several  more  would  have  been  secured,  the  rows  at 
at  date  being  a  mass  of  bloom.  The  variety  was  Autocrat,  and  the 
seeds  w'ere  sown  about  the  middle  of  July  on  an  open,  though  not  exposed 
piece  cf  the  kitchen  garden,  which  is  itself  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  a 
o  feet  wall.  Before  sowing  a  liberal  quantity  of  manure  was  spread  on 
the  site  and  deeply  worked  in.  The  direction  of  the  rows  was  S.W.  to 
.1..,  thus  giving  full  scope  for  the  action  of  the  sun  on  both  sides  of  the 
rows.  As  growth  advanced  the  Peas  were  neatly  staked,  after  which  a 
mulching  of  half-decayed  manure  was  put  on  both  sides  of  the  rows,  and 
plenty  of  water  afforded.  The  continued  open  weather  at  so  late  a 
period  favoured  growth  with  the  result  I  have  before  mentioned. 
A  few  points  in  connection  with  early  and  late  Peas  I  should  like  to 
mention.  Bearing  in  mind  the  improbability  of  a  repetition  of  such  a 
tavourable  autumn,  no  seeds  should  be  sown  later  than  the  end  of  June, 
unless  adequate  means  be  provided  for  their  protection.  This  rule 
certainly  holds  good  on  cold  retentive  soils.  Also  those  varieties  which 
are  not  susceptible  to  mildew  ought  to  be  chosen  for  late  sowings,  and 
Autocrat  appears  to  possess  this  good  quality  to  a  marked  degree.  All 
°!?riy  ('as  are  carefully  handpicked  before  sowing,  all  those  having  the 
slightest  puncture  being  discarded.  By'  taking  this  precaution  a  good 
even  row  is  secured  provided  the  seeds  are  not  carried  away  by  birds  or 
vermin.  J  J 
An  excellent  way  of  growing  Peas  is  to  take  out  a  shallow  trench  ns 
for  Celery,  and  having  covered  the  bottom  with  manure  fork  it  in,  and 
distribute  the  seed  thinly  and  evenly  along  the  centre,  the  seed  occupying 
about  4  inches  of  the  width  of  the  trench.  By  adopting  this  plan  each 
seed  will  be  independent  of  its  neighbour,  and  each  plant  be  robust  and 
stocky  from  the  first.  As  the  plants  advance  in  growth  and  require 
earthing  the  spare  soil  on  each  side  of  the  shallow  trench  has  simply  tn 
be  replaced,  leaving  the  whole  level.  When  water  is  given  it  will  go  at 
onee  down  to  the  roots  instead  of  running  off  the  high  ridges  too  often 
seen  in  gardens  nowadays.  My  remarks  apply  to  light  soils.  On  wet, 
cold,  or  clayey  soils  the  old  method'of  making  a  ridge  around  such  crops 
has  its  advantages,  especially  with  regard  to  very  early  or  late  sowings. 
I  question  whether  much  time  is  gained  by  autumn  sowing,  unless  it 
be  on  very  light,  well-drained  land.  A  great  deal,  however,  depends  on 
the  variety  sown.  Veitch’s  Extra  Early  Selected  is  a  grand  one  for  the 
first  crop.  Seeds  of  this  variety  sown  on  November  18th,  1897,  were 
bearing  pods  2  inches  long  on  June  1st,  while  a  sowing  of  Chelsea  Gem 
made  on  January  24th,  1898,  and  growing  side  by  side  with  the  first 
named,  was  just  about  ten  days  behind.  Most  gardeners  will  tell  us, 
however,  “a  dish  of  Peas  is  a  dish  of  Peas  ”  early  in  June,  and  if  a  well- 
drained  border  is  at  command  in  November  it  is  mostly  the  spot  chosen 
for  the  first  sowing  of  Peas.— T.  P. 
WQRKjofl™  WEEK.. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Figs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Immediately  the  second  crop  ot 
fruit  is  gathered  examine  the  trees  for  red  spider  and  scale.  If  present, 
syringe  the  trees  with  a  solution  of  soluble  petroleum  on  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves,  also  wetting  every  part  of  each  tree,  and  where  the  wood  is 
infested  with  scale  employ  a  somewhat  stiff  brush  to  dislodge  it  whilst 
wet.  In  bad  cases  repeat  in  a  day  or  two,  afterwards  syringing  thoroughly 
with  tepid  water.  The  trees  will  only  need  water  to  prevent  the  foliage 
becoming  limp,  ventilating  to  the  fullest  extent  day  and  night,  but  protect 
the  trees  from  heavy  rains,  which  have  a  tendency  to  keep  the  growth 
active  instead  of  securing  that  rest  so  essential  for  those  subjected  to  early 
forcing. 
Eaily  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — The  second  crop  is  ripening  and  will 
need  a  circulation  of  air  constantly,  more  by  day  than  at  night.  If  dull, 
wet  weather  prevail,  a  gentle  heat  in  the  pipes  makes  all  the  difference 
between  well  ripened  and  insipid  fruit.  Watering  at  the  roots  must  be 
diminished  and  syringing  discontinued,  but  moderate  air  moisture  may 
be  maintained  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage.  If  red  spider  is  present  and 
there  L  heat  in  the  pipes,  coat  these  thinly  with  sulphur,  or  a  good 
syringing  may  be  given  after  the  fruits  have  been  very  closely  picked, 
ohoosiDg  a  time  when  there  is  a  prospect  of  the  moisture  not  remaining 
long  upon  the  trees.  As  soon  as  the  fruits  are  all  gathered  the  trees  may 
have  a  good  washing  with  the  syringe  or  garden  engine  to  clear  the  foliage 
of  dust  and  red  spider,  otherwise  a  circulation  of  dry  warm  air  should 
be  maintained  in  the  house  until  the  foliage  commences  falling  naturally, 
and  which  must  not  be  accelerated  by  allowing  the  soil  to  become  dust 
dry  at  the  roots. 
Succession  or  Late  Houses. — The  fruit  is  now  advanced  in  swelling,  and 
every  pains  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  foliage  free  from  red  spider.  This 
may  be  effected  by  forcible  syringing  early  in  the  afternoon,  but  do  not 
syringe  if  there  is  no  prospect  of  the  foliage  becoming  dry  before  night. 
Under  such  circumstances  damp  the  border,  especially  in  the  afternoon, 
and  occasionally  with  liquid  manure.  Admit  a  little  air  early,  increasing 
it  with  the  sun  heat,  maintaining  through  the  day  a  temperature  of  80° 
to  85°,  with  free  ventilation,  closing  early  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°  or  95°, 
ev<n  100°,  and  when  the  sun  power  is  declining  a  little  air  may  be 
admitted  at  the  top  so  as  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to  escape,  the 
temperature  gradually  cooling  down.  Water  or  liquid  manure,  according 
to  circumstances,  will  be  required  once  or  twice  a  week  to  keep  the  soil 
thoroughly  moist.  When  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen  lessen  the  supply  of 
water,  and  discontinue  syringing,  securing  a  circulation  of  air  constantly, 
and  freely  ventilate  when  favourable,  but  sun  heat  should  be  husbanded, 
and  will  dp  no  harm  if  the  atmosphere  is  not  confined,  a  little  ventilation 
being  given  so  as  to  alllow  of  the  moisture  escaping  instead  of  condensing 
on  the  fruit  and  causing  it  to  crack. 
Vines  .—Early  Houses.— The  earliest  forced  have  the  wood  ripe,  and 
some  of  the  leaves  falling.  Do  not  attempt  to  remove  them  forcibly,  nor 
cut  the  laterals  too  close  in,  as  that  would  probably  cause  the  principal 
buds  to  start,  therefore  remove  the  laterals  by  degrees,  and  shorten  some 
of  the  strong  shoots,  preserving,  however,  some  growth,  especially  when 
the  principal  leaves  are  down  above  the  buds  to  which  the  Vines  are  to 
be  pruned,  deferring  the  final  pruning  until  the  early  part  of  September. 
The  old  soil  should  be  removed  frotu  the  surface  of  the  border,  forking 
some  of  it  from  amongst  the  roots,  taking  advantage  of  the  opportunity 
to  raise  any  that  are  deep,  and  laying  them  in  fresh  material  nearer  the 
surface.  Good  calcareous  loam  is  the  moBt  suitable,  especially  from  old  or 
new  red  sandstone  formations,  with  an  admixture  of  one-twelfth  of  wood 
ashes  or  charred  refnso,  a  twentieth  of  crushed  charcoal,  and  a  fortieth 
MU 
i  '  A  S: 
,:Jl' 
