11(5 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  11,  189?. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  a.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  jtot  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Employment  (C.  S.  H.'). — Your  desire  is  natural  and  laudable.  It  is 
most  difficult  to  advise  in  such  a  case.  If  you  could  procure  letters  of 
introduction  from  the  excellent  continental  firm  mentioned,  to  British 
firms  with  whom  business  is  done,  one  or  other  of  these  firms  might,  on 
personal  application,  with  credentials,  try  to  be  helpful  in  the  direction 
you  wish. 
Protecting  Tea  Eoses  in  the  East  of  Scotland  (0.  F.'). — On  the  east 
coast,  over  500  feet  above  sea  level,  we  have  found  it  necessary  to  place 
on  a  good  thickness  of  stable  litter  in  November  to  protect  the  roots,  and 
in  severe  weather  employ  evergreen  branches,  such  as  Spruce,  to  shelter 
the  exposed  parts,  fixing  them  securely  in  the  ground,  and  so  as  to 
depend  over  the  Roses.  The  Spruce  branches  were  not  removed  until 
the  Roses  and  ground  were  thoroughly  thawed  on  a  return  of  mild 
weather,  the  branches  being  kept  in  readiness  for  replacing  in  case  of 
recurring  severe  weather,  this  being  continued  until  April  as  required. 
In  very  severe  winters  the  Roses  were  cut  off  down  to  the  litter  protecting 
line,  but  springing  again  from  the  roots  or  protected  parts  gave  very  fine 
growths  and  flowers,  the  plants  not  being  injured  in  the  least  by  the 
stable  litter.  In  ordinary  winters  the  Fir  branches  afforded  sufficient 
protection  to  the  tops,  pruning  being  performed  in  April. 
Carnations  in  the  Open  Ground  {Idem). — The  varieties  you  name  are 
quite  hardy  under  ordinary  circumstances,  and  do  well  when  so  grown 
as  to  have  sturdy  “grass.”  It  is  usual,  however,  to  keep  some  plants  in 
pots  in  cold  frames  so  as  to  make  sure  of  them,  these  being  layers  of  the 
current  season,  potted  in  late  summer  or  as  soon  as  well  rooted.  The 
layering  is  best  done  at  the  end  of  July  or  beginning  of  August,  but  it 
may  still  be  carried  on,  not,  however,  losing  any  time,  so  as  to  have  well 
rooted  layers  by  the  middle  or  end  of  September,  then  either  potting 
singly  in  3-inch  pots,  or  in  pairs  in  4  inch  pots.  After  potting  a  good 
watering  should  be  given,  and  the  frame  kept  close  for  a  week  or  two 
until  root  action  is  resumed,  when  air  may  be  freely  admitted.  All 
through  the  winter  full  advantage  should  bo  taken  of  fine  weather  to  give 
all  the  air  possible  by  tilting  or  entirely  removing  the  lights.  Water 
very  carefully  during  the  winter,  keeping  the  plants  rather  dry  than 
otherwise  up  to  February,  for,  if  wet,  “  spot  ”  commonly  appears,  besides 
the  plants  suffer  in  severe  weather.  We  advise  you  to  treat  at  least  a 
portion  of  the  layers  in  that  way,  so  as  to  make  sure  of  keeping  the 
collection  intact. 
Vine  Bark  and  Soil  (Gross').— 1,  It  is  not  difficult  to  find  either  the 
white  worms  (Enchytrceus  Buchholzi)  or  the  transparent  beetles  or 
spiders— namely,  Rhizoglyphus  phylloxera,  both  of  which  feed  on 
vegetable  substances  in  a  state  of  decay.  There  is  nothing  in  either 
resembling  the  grubs  of  the  Vine  weevil,  much  less  the  weevils  them¬ 
selves.  Though  you  cannot  discover  any  trace  of  eelworm  now,  if  you 
had  examined  the  specimen  you  tent  us  last  October  you  might  have 
found  plenty  in  the  tissue  at  the  collar  of  the  Vine.  If  you  examine  the 
Vines  that  die  in  a  similar  manner  you  may  also  find  eelworm.  We 
should  attribute  infection  to  the  old  Cucumber  soil.  You  cannot  do 
better  than  use  plenty  of  lime,  scraping  away  as  much  of  the  old  soil  as 
possible  and  adding  fresh  loam  mixed  with  bonemeal.  2,  We  do  not 
think  the  eelworm  would  pass  through  a  wall  into  a  well,  or  if  they  did, 
neither  them  nor  their  eggs  long  survive,  at  least  we  have  not  found 
them  to  do  so  in  waters  not  containing  a  large  amount  of  organic  matter. 
3,  1  es,  you  can  easily  find  out  whether  eelworm  or  eggs  exist  in  the 
water  by  subjecting  it  to  microscopic  examination. 
Lilium  auratum  (TV  J.  B.). — The  flower  of  Lilium  auratum  that  you 
send  represents  the  variety  known  as  cruenta,  and  which  is  compara¬ 
tively  common.  The  number  of  flowers  on  the  spike  proves  that  your 
system  of  culture  is  correct,  and  we  congratulate  you  on  the  result. 
Packing  Flowers  (Novice). — We  quite  understand  your  difficulty,  and 
know  that  is  one  that  has  troubled  many  young  gardeners.  We 
recommend  to  your  notice  the  article  on  page  105.  This  is  from  the  pen 
of  a  practical  man,  and  embodies  much  information  that  will  be  of  value 
to  you. 
Excluding  Rabbits  from  a  Garden  ( B .  D.  K.). — The,;  most  effectual 
method  we  have  found  is  wire  netting.  We  use  it  galvanised,  l|-inch 
mesh,  3  feet  wide,  6  inches  of  which  is  placed  in  the  ground  in  order  to 
prevent  the  rabbits  burrowing  under  it.  This  netting  is  secured  to  posts 
or  iron  stakes,  and  a  top  wire  is  stretched  from  post  to  post  or  stake  to 
stake.  Where  feasible,  a  ditch  should  be  dug  on  the  protected  side  and 
the  wire  placed  on  the  edge  of  the  ditch.  If  placed  on  the  flat  take  out 
the  trench  for  the  netting,  bending  the  bottom  edge  from  the  line  outwards, 
affixing  it  flat  in  the  trench,  so  that  the  rabbits  w  hich  commence  burrowing 
a  little  distance  from  it  will  come  at  the  wire  and  give  up  trying  to  get 
under.  We  also  fix  the  netting  as  to  lean  outwards.  If  leaning  inwards 
the  rabbits  soon  learn  to  climb,  and  once  in  cause  much  trouble  to  get  out 
again,  as  there  is  generally  plenty  of  cover  for  them  in  gardens  at  this 
time  of  year. 
Melon  Plant  Diseased  (J.  S.). — The  root  and  stem  of  the  Melon  plant 
arrived  in  good  condition  for  examination,  also  the  soil.  The  stem  above 
ground  was  perfectly  healthy,  but  the  root-stem  had  a  swollen  appearance, 
while  the  smaller  roots  were  free  from  the  nodosities  indicative  of  root- 
knot  eelworm  (Heterodera  radicicola).  We  did  not  find  this  pest,  but  in 
the  root-stem,  embedded  in  the  teilular  tissue  or  between  it  and  the 
woody  layer,  the  root-stem  eelworm  (Tylenchus  obtusus)  was  plentiful, 
and  this  we  regard  as  the  cause  of  “the  plant  failing  at  the  root  before 
the  Melons  were  hardly  ripe.”  The  soil  is  of  a  verv  fibrous  nature,  and 
in  that  the  eelworm  has  possibly  been  introduced.  We  advise  the  careful 
removal  of  the  rootstocks  and  burning  them,  then  either  soak  the  soil 
with  gas  liquor  diluted  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water,  or  soluble 
phenyle,  one  part  in  240  of  soft  water,  or  scald  with  boiling  water.  We 
have  also  found  great  benefit  from  the  use  of  quicklime,  about  2^  per 
cent,  mixed  with  the  soil  in  stacking,  leaving  until  the  herbage  was 
completely  dead. 
Parsley  not  Progressing  (J.  TV.). — The  plants  are  “  rusted”  at  the 
roots  by  a  small  maggot,  the  larva  of  a  dipterous  fly,  Psila  rosae,  and 
the  leaves  are  attacked  by  the  leaf-blight  fungus,  Septoria  petroselini,  to 
a  greater  extent,  but  both  the  plants  appear  to  be  recovering,  as  they  have 
good  centres-— that  is,  pushing  healthy  leaves  from  the  crown;.  We 
advise  the  removal  without  delay  of  all  the  leaves  but  the  young  central 
ones,  doing  this  carefully,  if  need  b?  with  scissors,  and  burning  the  parts 
cut  off.  Then  supply  a  dressing  of  kainit,  crushed  finely,  2  ozs.  per  square 
yard,  keeping  it  from  the  hearts  of  the  plants,  following  with  a  dressiug 
of  soot,  a  good  handful,  or  even  two,  per  square  yard,  all  over  the  plants, 
and  finally'  sprinkle  with  lime,  freshly  burned  and  slaked,  so  as  to  fall 
into  a  fine  apparently  dry  powder,  using  about  as  much  of  this  by  bulk 
as  of  soot.  The  hoe  may  be  run  lightly  along  the  sides  of  the  rows  after 
the  dressing.  We  have  sometimes  only  used  the  soot  and  lime,  but  the  kainit 
acts  well  against  the  root-rust,  arid  hardens  the  Parsley  for  the  winter. 
Rusty  Pears  ( B .  D.  K.). — As  you  have  neither  described  “  the  rust 
fungus  on  growing  Pears,”  nor  forwarded  a  specimen  for  examination,  we 
are  placed  at  a  great  disadvantage.  Some  of  the  so-called  “rusts”  are 
merely  superficial,  and  may  readily  be  reached  by  a  fungicide  ;  while 
others  push  the  mycelial  hyphae  so  deeply  into  the  flesh  as  to  be  practi¬ 
cally  beyond  the  influence  of  a  substance  applied  externally.  We  have 
found  most  relief  from  spraymg  with  methylated  spirit,  this  being  done 
very  carefully  in  the  evening  of  a  fine  day,  and  the  finest  possible  film 
only  covering  the  fruit.  If  applied  excessively  the  spirit  discolours  the 
rind.  It  appears  to  sink  somewhat  into  the  flesh  exposed  by  the  action  of 
the  fungus,  destroying  the  hyphae  and  acting  also  antiseptically,  facili¬ 
tating  the  formation  of  fresh  rind-cells.  Similarly  we  have  used  freshly 
burned  chalk  lime,  ground  to  a  powder  and  mixed  with  an  equal  amount 
of  flowers  of  sulphur,  dusting  on  by  means  of  a  sulphur  duster  or  muslin 
bag.  In  some  cases  we  have  rubbed  the  mixture  on  with  the  fingers,  and 
found  good  results  follow  the  treatment. 
Packing  Grapes  (J.  H.) — If,  in  answer  to  your  question  respecting 
the  “  best  material  to  use  in  packing  Grapes,”  we  were  to  say  “  Nothing 
at  all,”  we  should  not  be  going  beyond  the  region  of  facts.  If  a  stout, 
sloping,  cross-handled  basket  is  lined  with  sweet  moss  or  soft  wood  wooR 
and  this  covered  with  very  smooth  paper,  the  basket  slanted  a  little,  and 
the  bunches  of  Grapes  placed  in,  stalks  upwards,  fitting  them  in  closely  as 
the  work  goes  on,  they  will,  if  the  work  be  done  well,  wedge  themselves 
into  a  close  mass,  and  arrive  at  their  destination  with  the  berries  less 
rubbed  than  if  any  packing  material  were  placed  among  them,  save, 
perhaps,  a  wedge  of  paper  here  and  there  among  the  shoulders  to  keep 
them  in  position.  Generally,  however,  a  little  further  packing  behind  the 
paper  is  the  best  plan  for  obtaining  additional  firmness  or  the  least 
disturbance  in  transit.  Thousands  of  such  baskets  are  sent  long  distances 
to  London.  Grapes  are  also  placed  in  a  similar  manner  in  light  dish¬ 
shaped  baskets,  made  to  fit  and  be  secured  in  stout  flat  hampers.  The 
hamper  is  termed  a  “flat,”  the  lighter  article  a  “baby”  basket,  but 
quantities  of  Grapes  are  firmly  packed  in  “flats”  without  the  “  baby.” 
There  are  doubtless  other  methods,  and  if  gardeners  find  any  to  answer 
well  we  will  readily  publish  descriptions  of  them,  which  may  be  sent  for 
that  purpose  for  the  benefit  of  their  fellow  men.  Baskets  of  packed 
Grapes  are  illustrated  in  Barron’s  “Vine  Culture,”  5s.  6d.,  post  free,, 
from  the  publisher,  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street,  London. 
