134 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  18,  1898. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Lapagerias  rosea  and  alba. 
Lapagerias  rosea  and  alba  are,  I  think,  two  of  the  handsomest  flower¬ 
ing  climbers  in  cultivation.  The  flowers  can  be  effectively  employed  in  so 
many  ways.  The  sprays  are  charming  for  draping  the  sides  of  vases 
which  are  filled  with  cut  flowers,  and  for  table  decoration  there  is  nothing 
to  surpass  them  arranged  on  Asparagus  decumbens.  If  the  plants  are 
well  trained  and  well  flowered  they  make  noble  specimens  for  exhibition 
purposes,  especially  rosea,  which  is  much  freer  flowering  than  the  white 
variety.  Lapagerias  are  natives  of  Chili,  and  belong  to  the  natural  order 
Smilaceae.  When  established  they  will  be  quite  at  home  in  a  cool  green¬ 
house  with  a  temperature  not  below  40°.  They  bloom  freely  if  trained 
on  the  rafters  where  they  are  exposed  to  the  full  light  and  where  they 
will  receive  abundance  of  fresh  air,  which  is  of  the  utmost  importance. 
Propagation  can  be  done  either  by  seed  or  by  layering  the  young 
shoots.  They  can  be  increased  by  cuttings,  but  it  is  slow  work,  because  the 
wood  being  so  hard  and  wiry  they  will  not  root  freely.  The  soil  best 
suited  to  the  successful  culture  of  Lapagerias  is  a  mixture  of  turfy  loam 
and  peat  in  equal  proportions,  with  some  sand,  mortar  rubbish,  and  char¬ 
coal  added  ;  it  should  be  used  in  as  rough  a  state  as  possible,  whether  the 
plants  are  grown  in  pots  or  planted  out  in  a  border.  The  drainage  must 
also  be  perfect,  as  Lapagerias  are  gross  feeders  and  require  abundance  of 
water  during  the  growing  season,  and  if  there  is  not  a  free  exit  the  soil  will 
become  sour  and  the  plants  fall  into  a  bad  state.  The  syringe  should 
be  used  as  often  as  possible  to  keep  the  foliage  clean  and  healthy,  and  also 
to  keep  in  check  thrips,  which  is  one  of  the  Lapageria’s  worst  enemies. 
Both  Lapageria  rosea  and  alba  should  find  a  home  in  every  garden  of  any 
pretension,  and  they  will  fully  repay  care  and  attention. — S.  S. 
Richardias. 
Richardia  is  the  proper  name  of  the  genus,  which  is  often  called  Calla. 
In  my  apprenticeship  days  Calla  sethiopica  was  the  name  my  superiors 
gave  the  Lily  of  the  Nile,  which  is  now  known  as  Richardia  africana.  As 
a  decorative  greenhouse  plant  this  species  is  almost  indispensable.  The 
flowers  when  cut  with  long  stalks  make  striking  objects  for  occupying 
vases  in  the  mansion  house,  and  they  are  useful  for  wreaths  and  other 
floral  designs.  Their  graceful  shape,  pure  white  colour,  and  waxy  texture 
form  a  combination  of  qualities  which  is  rare  amongst  our  greenhouse 
flowers.  The  elegant  habit  of  the  whole  plant  with  its  finely  curved  leaves 
renders  it  fit  tor  including  in  any  greenhouse  group. 
The  plants  may  be  propagated  by  suckers  or  seeds.  The  former  method 
is  the  quicker  and  easier.  They  like  a  rich  compost,  which  should  be  kept 
moist  at  all  times.  Suckers  ought  to  be  procured  in  the  spring,  and,  after 
potting  singly,  should  be  placed  in  a  warm  part  of  the  greenhouse  till  they 
make  some  growth.  They  may  then  be  grown  in  a  cool  sunny  position 
indoors  till  the  middle  or  end  of  July,  and  then  be  plunged  or  planted 
outside.  Towards  the  end  of  September,  or  before  frost  appears,  they 
should  be  lifted,  repotted,  and  grown  in  the  greenhouse.  There  they  will 
probably  flower  early  th?  following  season.  Established  plants  may  be 
well  grown  in  the  same  way. 
There  are  several  other  species  of  Richardia  which  are  worth  grow¬ 
ing.  R.  albo-maculata  and  R.  melanoleuca  are  two  species  introduced 
about  thirty  years  ago.  The  former,  as  its  name  implies,  has  white 
spotted  leaves,  and  (he  flowers  are  smaller  than  those  of  R.  africana.  The 
outer;  base  of  the  spathe  is  often  tinged  with  green.  R.  melanoleuca  has 
leaves  with  white  spots  also,  but  they  are  shorter  and  broader  than  those 
of  albo-maculata.  The  flowers  are  of  a  pale  yellow  or  cream  colour,  and 
the  inner  base  is  marked  with  a  large  purple  blotch,  from  the  centre  of 
which  arises  the  white  spadix.  These  two  species  are  not  so  hardy  and 
flower  later  than  the  common  one. 
R.  Elliotiana,  R  Pentlandi,  and  R,  Rehmanni  are  newer  species.  The 
first  is  a  splendid  one,  its  flowers  being  large  and  of  a  bright  yellow  colour. 
It  is  a  native  of  .tropical  Africa,  and  therefore  requires  a  warmer  tempe¬ 
rature  than  the  common  species  (R.  africana),  which  is  a  native  of  the 
southern  part  of  the  same  continent.  R.  Pentlandi  has  smaller  flowers, 
but  they  are  also  of  a  bright  yellow  colour.  It  should  be  treated  in  a 
similar  way  to  Elliotiana.  The  foliage  of  these  two  species  dies  down,  but 
they  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  very  dry  at  the  roots  while  resting,  but 
rather  kept  in  a  cool  part  of  the  greenhouse  and  watered  occasionally  till 
they  show  signs  of  growth.  They  may  then  be  repotted  in  rich  compost 
and  grown  in  an  intermediate  house. 
R.  Rehmanni  is  what  some  florists  call  the  Pink  Arum,  although  it  is 
not  an  Arum  at  all,  neither  is  it  pink  in  colour.  Truly  there  is  usually  a 
pink  tinge  throughout  the  spathe  or  round  its  upper  edge,  but  the 
predominant  colour  is  greenish  yellow  or  greenish  white.  The  flowers  are 
rather  small,  and  certainly  not  of  a  striking  appearance.  There  is  a 
rumour  of  a  red  species  being  found,  and  one  with  red  spatbes  and  white 
spadices  would  certainly  be  highly  valued,  and  fortunate  will  be  the  man 
who  introduces  it. — X.  L.  C.  R. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Austin  &  McAslan,  Glasgow. — Flower  Boots  and  Plants. 
II.  Canned  &  Sons,  Swanley. — Strawberries  and  Raspberries. 
Dicksons  &  Co.,  Waterloo  Place,  Edinburgh. — Flower  Roots. 
E.  P.  Dixon  &  Sons.  Hull. — Bulbs. 
Dobie  and  Mason.  Oak  Street,  Manchester. — Bulbs. 
W.  Paul  &  Son,  Waltham  Cross. — Bulbs. 
J.  R.  Pearson  &  Sons,  Chilwell,  Notts. — Autumn  Catalogue. 
R.  Sydenham,  Tenby  Street,  Birmingham. — Bulbs. 
J.  Veitch  &  Sons,  Ltd,  Royal  Exotic  Nursery,  Chelsea. — Bulbs. 
WORKjorthe  WEEK,. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Apricots. — Trees  that  are  cleared  of  fruit  should  be  examined, 
superfluous  wood  and  useless  spurs  cut  out,  regulating  new  wood  to  fill 
up  vacancies,  and  laying  in  additional  shoots  if  required.  Retain  suitable 
growths  at  the  base  of  the  trees,  as  these  come  in  most  useful  if  found 
necessary  to  furnish  the  trees  with  new  branches  owing  to  dying  off  of 
the  old.  The  majority  of  the  shoots  cut  out  ought  to  be  those  situated 
in  unsuitable  positions.  Others  that  cannot  be,  or  are  not  required  for 
training  in  may  be  shortened  to  form  spurs.  The  proper  regulation  of 
■the  wood  and  shoots  at  this  season  assists  to  a  large  extent  the  complete 
ripening  of  the  growths. 
Syringe  the  foliage  so  as  to  clear  it  of  red  spider  and  other  insects. 
Give  the  roots  a  good  soaking  of  water,  afterwards  an  application  of 
liquid  manure,  or  a  dressing  of  chemical  manure  washed  in  proves 
beneficial,  supplying  food  for  the  roots  to  perfect  the  fruit  buds.  Young 
trees  may  not  require  this  assistance,  but  the  soil  must  be  kept  moist. 
For  Apricots  still  swelling  their  fruits  moisture  at  the  roots  must  be 
steadily  maintained.  In  addition  to  water  give  a  little  stimulating  food, 
which  can  be  readily  appropriated.  Mulch  the  surface  afterwards.  Place 
nets  to  catch  any  fruits  which  may  fall. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Trees  swelling  and  ripening  fruit  require 
attention.  Adequate  moisture  for  the  roots  is  important,  trees  against 
walls  of  any  aspect  soon  abstracting  during  the  growing  season  all  the 
available  moisture  from  the  soil.  Liberal  supplies  of  other  soluble 
food  are  also  demanded,  which  may  be  met  by  applications  of  liquid 
manure.  Concentrated  manures  may  also  be  given.  They  are  easily 
obtainable,  safely  applied  when  the  directions  are  followed,  and  when 
washed  in  have  an  immediate  effect.  Trees  having  fruit  approaching  the 
ripening  stage  ought  to  have  strong  manurial  applications  suspended. 
They  will  also  be  better  without  heavy  waterings  if  a  copious  supply 
was  given  when  the  fruit  commenced  to  colour,  and  the  escape  of 
moisture  prevented  by  a  generous  mulching.  Fix  nets  to  catch  fruits 
which  may  fall. 
It  is  important  that  all  the  most  suitably  placed  wood  be  carefully  laid 
in,  avoiding  the  error  of  securing  too  much,  which  it  will  be  impossible  to 
thoroughly  ripen.  Free  extension  of  wood,  however,  is  good  for  Peaches 
and  Nectarines.  High  walls,  which  afford  plenty  of  space,  are  for  this 
reason  the  best,  but  every  effort  ought  to  be  made  to  keep  the  lower  parts 
of  the  trees  furnished  as  well  as  the  upper. 
Plums. — Trees  either  on  walls  or  in  the  open  bearing  good  crops  will 
be  benefited  by  feeding.  It  will  not  only  assist  the  fruit  to  enlarge  and 
improve  its  quality,  but  afford  help  to  the  growth,  which  may  not  in  all 
cases  be  receiving  the  sustenance  necessary  owing  to  extra  demands  of 
the  crop. 
Continue  to  lay  in  shoots  of  wall  trees  where  space  is  available. 
Superfluous  growths  cut  clean  out,  or  shorten  to  form  spurs  It  may  be 
desirable  to  renew  a  branch  that  is  exhausted  or  lacks  vigour.  In  such 
cases  cut  back  to  strong  healthy  growths,  which  may  be  trained  in 
to  refurnish  the  space.  Plums  bear  better,  and  are  healthier  when  the 
trees  are  allowed  to  carry  a  fair  proportion  of  new  wood  annually,  the 
oldest  and  most  exhausted  being  cut  out.  The  system  obviates  the 
necessity  of  retaining  old  elongated  spurs,  which  are  better  dispensed 
with. 
In  the  open  Plums  should  be  cultivated  chiefly  as  low  standards. 
Plenty  of  space  for  the  trees  and  little  pruning  are  points  worth  con¬ 
sideration.  The  pruning  may  consist  of  thinning  out  and  regulating- 
branches,  carrying  out  the  operation  after  the  fruit  has  been  gathered. 
Dead  wood  remove  at  any  time,  and  suckers  carefully  dig  up. 
Apples  and  Pears. — Cordon  Apples  and  Pears,  as  well  as  other  forms 
of  trained  trees  against  walls,  abstract  all  the  available  moisture  from  the 
surrounding  soil,  especially  if  the  trees  are  bearing  good  crops.  Hence  it 
is  the  best  policy  to  afford  liberal  supplies  of  moisture,  including  liquid 
manure,  in  order  to  maintain  the  requisite  conditions  for  insuring  the 
swelling  and  perfecting  of  the  fruit.  Prevent  rapid  evaporation  by  a 
liberal  mulching  of  manure  over  the  roots.  If  not  already  done,  shorten 
the  foreright  shoots  to  four  or  six  leaves,  also  the  leaders  if  the  allotted 
space  is  filled.  If  not,  let  them  extend  unshortened. 
Morello  Cherries. — The  fruit  of  these  hang  on  the  trees  in  good  con¬ 
dition  a  long  time  after  becoming  ripe.  Birds  do  not  attack  them  so  freely 
as  sweet  Cherries,  so  unless  they  do,  netting  will  not  be  required.  As  the 
trees  are  cleared  of  fruit,  superfluous  wood  may  be  cut  out,  and  the  new 
growths  nailed  in.  The  shoots  may  be  laid  in  rather  more  thickly  than 
is  desirable  in  the  case  of  other  fruit  trees,  3  or  4  inches  between  the 
growths  being  a  suitable  distance.  In  hot,  dry  positions  red  spider  infests 
the  foliage.  A  good  cleansing  with  clear  water  should  be  given  at  every 
opportunity  before  the  fruit  ripens  and  after  it  has  been  gathered.  In  bad 
insect  attacks  employ  a  strong  insecticide. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Old  plants  which  have  been  bearing  from  an  early  part 
of  the  season  produce  about  this  time,  or  soon  after,  knobby-ended  fruits. 
These  have  very  indifferent  value  for  use  ;  but  they  are  essential  for  seed, 
as  the  long  and  straight  handsome  fruits  are  less  prolific,  even  when  the 
