August  18,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
135 
flowers  are  fertilised.  Old  plants  (and  it  is  almost  a  nece>sity  where 
the  means  are  limited)  may  be  kept  in  a  bearing  condition  by  cutting  out 
the  old  wood  and  encouraging  young  growths,  so  as  to  insure  a  succession 
of  bearing  shoots.  Train  these  thinly,  removing  old  leaves  to  afford 
room  fcr  new  growth-,  and  stop  these  at  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit. 
Ilemove  the  surface  soil  and  supply  fresh  lumpy  loam.  Plants  that  have 
been  in  bearing  in  frames  some  time  will  be  restored  to  vigour  bv  a  free 
thinning  out  of  the  old  shoots  and  the  addition  of  a  little  fresh  loam, 
giving  a  moderate  watering  and  a  sprinkling  over  the  foliage  on  bright 
afternoons,  closing  at  about  3  p.m.  With  linings  to  the  beds,  and  the 
protection  of  mats  over  the  lights,  Cucumbers  will  be  produced  over  a 
lengthened  period. 
Autumn-fruiting  Plants. — These  are  much  better  than  old  plants  for 
affording  plentiful  supplies  of  clean  fruits,  and  should  be  encouraged  to 
make  a  strong  growth  by  earthing  betimes,  applying  enough  moist  and 
warm  soil  each  time  to  cover  the  protruding  roots.  Supply  water  odI) 
when  needed,  and  give  a  thorough  moistening  of  the  soil  each  time. 
Damp  the  floors  and  walls  in  the  morning,  at  noon,  and  in  the  evening, 
syringing  about  3  p.m.  in  bright  weather.  Maintain  a  night  temperature 
of  65°  to  70",  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  80°  to  90°  by  sun  heat,  and  close  so 
as  to  increase  95°  or  even  100°.  Train  the  growths  thinly,  allowing 
about  12  inches  between  the  side  growths,  and  stop  them  at  about  a  foot’s 
growth  to  give  the  needful  furnishing  and  bearing  growths.  Remove 
all  fruits  and  flowers  as  they  show  so  as  to  induce  vigorous  growth,  the 
beginning  of  September  being  sufficiently  early  to  allow  fruit  to  show 
for  cutting  at  the  end  of  that  month,  then  by  judicious  cropping  at  first 
a  good  number  of  fruits  can  be  had  durii  g  the  autumn  and  early  winter 
Avoid  over-luxuriance  by  rich  surface  dressings  and  the  too  free  use  of 
liquid  manure  :  but  secure  plenty  of  roots  by  sweet  compost,  and  a  sturdy, 
thoroughly  solidified  growth  by  judicious  ventilation  and  full  exposure  of 
the  foliage  to  the  light. 
Houses  for  Winter  Fruit. — The  structure  must  be  light,  efficiently 
heated  both  at  the  top  and  bottom,  and  means  of  ventilation  so  provided 
as  to  admit  air  without  causing  a  prejudicial  current.  The  plants  will 
have  been  raised  from  seed  during  the  first  or  second  week  of  this 
month.  Pot  them  as  soon  as  ready,  shift  them  as  they  require  more 
root  space,  keep  near  the  glass,  and  place  a  small  stick  to  each  for 
support,  growing  the  plants  without  stopping,  but  rubbing  off  side  shoots 
as  they  appear  to  the  height  of  the  trellis.  In  the  meanwhile  thoroughly 
cleanse  the  house,  remove  all  the  old  soil,  and  make  ever)  thing  as  sweet 
and  efficient  as  possible  for  winter. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Trees. — The  trees  being 
exposed  to  the  full  influences  of  the  air  by  the  removal  of  the  roof-lights 
will  be  greatly  benefited  through  the  foliage  being  cleansed  by  rain,  and 
invigorated  by  night  dews.  This  will  aid  in  swelling  the  buds  without 
inducing  over-development,  and  if  the  soil  of  the  border  is  thoroughly 
moistened  by  rain  or  watering,  the  buds  are  not  like  y  to  be  cast  at  a 
later  period.  A  vital  point  in  the  continued  early  forcing  of  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  is  to  prevent  the  trees  starting  into  growth  prematurely.  This 
can  only  be  prevented  by  keeping  them  cool,  along  with  some  outlets  for 
the  sap  in  moderate  lateral  growths,  and  the  preservation  of  the  foliage 
in  health.  When  the  roof-lights  are  fixed  the  trees  should  have  all  the  air 
ossible,  and  they  must  not  suffer  by  want  of  water  at  the  roots,  or  the 
uds  will  become  defective  and  fall  when  the  sap  ascends.  Trees  in  pots 
should  be  top-dressed,  they  having  been  some  time  outdoors  plunged  in 
ashes,  choosing  a  dull  time  for  the  operation,  and  after  removing  about 
one-third  of  the  soil  over  and  around  the  ball,  supply  fresh  and  rich, 
giving  a  good  watering.  The  trees  push  fresh  rootlets  and  are  in  a 
position  to  support  the  blossom  and  young  fruit  in  the  early  stages. 
Succession  Houses. — When  the  fruit  is  gathered  cut  out  all  the  bearing 
wood  of  this  season  unless  forming  extensions,  and  the  shoots  for  next 
year’s  fruiting  where  too  crowded  should  be  thinned  to  admit  light  and 
air  to  assist  the  ripening  of  the  wood.  Afterwards  cleanse  the  foliage 
thoroughly  with  water  from  the  syringe  or  garden  engine.  The  roof 
lights  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  ripe  and  the  buds  are 
plump,  unless  the  trees  are  young  and  there  is  any  doubt  about  the  ripe¬ 
ness  of  the  wood,  when  a  temperature  of  80°'  to  85°  should  be  maintained 
from  sun  heat,  and  the  ventilators  thrown  open  at  night.  Supply  water 
to  the  roots  so  as  to  keep  the  soil  in  a  moist  condition.  Weakly  trees 
will  be  benefited  by  the  application  of  liquid  manure. 
Late  Harises. — Let  the  fruit  have  full  exposure  to  the  sun,  drawing  the 
leaves  aside,  and  raising  depending  fruit  with  its  apex  to  the  light  by 
laths  placed  crosswise  of  the  trellis.  Keep  the  growths  tied  as  they 
advance  in  length.  Stop  or  remove  gross  growths,  and  let  all  have  full 
exposure  to  light.  Laterals  should  be  kept  well  in  hand,  but  they  may  be 
allowed  moderate  extension  in  the  case  of  trees  carrying  heavy  crops,  so 
as  to  attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit  and  maintain  activity  at  the  roots.  Trees 
carrying  light  crops  and  having  strong  wood  and  much  lateral  growth 
should  be  marked  for  lifting  or  root-pruning  as  soon  as  the  wood  is 
sufficiently  firm.  This  ought  to  be  done  a  month  or  six  weeks  in  advance 
of  the  leaves  falling.  Continue  the  syringing  on  fine  days  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  until  the  fruit  commences  ripening,  but  on  dull  days  damp 
the  house  instead  of  syringing  the  trees.  Provide  a  little  ventilation 
constantly,  and  increase  it  early  in  the  day. 
Ripening  the  Fruit. — If  it  is  desired  to  accelerate  the  ripening  of  the 
fruit  the  temperaturs  through  the  day  may  be  kept  at  80°  to  85°,  closing 
in  the  afternoon  early  enough  to  raise  the  heat  to  90°  or  95°,  and  before 
nightfall  admit  a  little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house,  so  as  to  permit  of  any 
excess  of  moisture  escaping,  and  to  induce  a  cooling  of  the  atmosphere 
and  rest.  The  increased  temperature  must  be  accompanied  by  a  corre¬ 
spondingly  mcist  atmosphere.  In  other  circumstances  allow  no  opportunity 
of  free  ventilation  to  be  neglected  ;  but  in  case  of  high  winds  it  is  well 
to  moderate  the  ventilation,  admitting  air  on  the  opposite  side  to  that 
from  which  the  wind  blows,  and  closing  must  be  regulated  so  as  to 
prevent  an  unusually  low  temperature  at  night.  Attend  to  the  inside 
an  l  outside  borders,  taking  care  to  supply  them  with  sufficient  water, 
never  allowing  the  soil  to  be  so  dry  as  to  cause  the  foliage  to  become  limp, 
as  that  may  check  the  fruit  in  swelling,  and  induce  premature  ripening, 
or  the  fruit  will  be  thin  in  flesh  and  poor  in  flavour.  A  light  mulching  of 
short  lumpy  manure  will  tend  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  attract  the  roots  to 
the  surface,  and  watering  will  carry  the  manuiial  elements  down  to  the 
roots,  and  diffuse  them  through  the  soil.  Liquid  manure  should  be 
supplied  to  weakly  trees  and  those  carrying  heavy  crops,  or  apply  a  top¬ 
dressing  of  some  approved  fertiliser,  and  wash  in  moderately. 
If 
r. r  —  ^  i.  r.i'.i  .  i,  t  .  i  . t-~t -  i  -  r-  i  -  "i  -  ,  -  ,  -  i  -  >  .  t  -  1  -  i  _  i  -i-  t  -  t  -  j  .~r-  i  -  TTVH  l 
ill 
IE  BEE-KEEPERS 
UiiL - Lllm-i  -  1  .  i  .  1  ■  1  .  1  -J  -J  •  |  |  ■  I  .  1  -I  .  1  -JI  ,  1  .  1  .  <  .  1  -  [  .  n  1 «  1  ^  p 
Unfinished  Sections. 
If  the  bees  have  been  provided  with  ample  room  as  they  required  it, 
there  will  usually  be  found  some  sections  that  are  not  properly  filled, 
or  if  full,  not  neatly  sealed  over.  The  aim  of  the  bee-keeper  should  be 
to  obtain  as  many  well-finished  sections  as  possible,  which  can  only  be 
done  by  close  attention  to  the  closing  up  of  the  unsealed  sections  to 
one  end  of  the  crate,  and  covering  them  up  warm  with  an  extra  thick¬ 
ness  of  some  material. 
The  sections  should  be  placed  directly  over  the  centre  of  the  brood 
nest,  as  experience  has  taught  us  that  much  more  warmth  is  obtained 
in  this  position  than  from  any  other.  The  intervening  space  between 
the  sections  and  the  end  of  the  crate  should  he  filled  with  any  spare 
coverings  that  may  be  to  hand  ;  there  will  then  be  no  escape  of  heat, 
and  if  a  piece  of  board  is  placed  over  the  whole  and  weighted  down 
with  a  trick,  it  will  add  very  much  to  the  temperature  of  the  super. 
Attention  to  Straw  Seeps. 
Supers  on  straw  sleeps  vary  very  much.  A  few  bee-keepers  obtain 
some  well-finished  sections  from  their  skeps,  and  when  this  is  the 
case  they  may  be  removed  in  the  same  manner  as  advised  for  those 
worked  on  frame  hives.  The  majority,  however,  that  have  come  under 
our  notice  have  been  ordinary  bell-glasses,  which,  however  ornamental 
they  may  be  when  filled  with  honey  and  well  sealed  over,  are  not 
useful,  as  it  is  impossible  to  remove  the  contents  without  breaking  the 
comb,  and  however  carefully  the  operation  is  carried  out,  there  will  be 
waste. 
A  large  bell-glass  filled  with  honey,  although  well  sealed  over,  will 
not  be  clear  of  bees  so  long  as  the  weather  is  warm,  and  unless  the 
super  is  removed  before  the  cold  nights  set  in,  the  bees  will  commence 
to  clear  out  the  surplus  and  carry  it  down  into  the  body  of  the  hive. 
Before  attempting  to  lift  the  glass  from  the  board  on  which  it  is 
placed,  a  piece  of  fine  wire  should  be  drawn  underneath  so  as  to 
sever  the  comb ;  place  a  couple  of  wedges  beneath  the  edge  of  the 
glass,  and  allow  it  to  remain  in  this  position  for  an  hour,  the  bees 
will  then  clean  up  the  dripping  honey  caused  by  the  severing  of  the 
combs.  When  this  has  taken  place,  lift  the  glass  bodily  from  the  hive 
and  carry  it  some  distance  away,  brushing  the  bees  oft’  with  a  feather. 
The  bees  that  still  remain  between  the  combs  will  return  to  their 
hive  on  emerging  from  the  glass  if  the  latter  is  placed  in  a  shady 
corner  and  the  bees  brushed  off  as  often  as  required.  This  plan  is 
preferred  to  using  smoke,  which  often  gives  an  unpleasant  flavour 
to  the  honey. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
i  Sample  of  Comb. 
Kindly  tell  me  if  the  enclosed  is  foul  .brood,  and  if  so,  what  is  the 
remedy.  The  piece  of  comb  is  taken  from  a  bar-frame  hive,  which  was 
said  to  be  in  excellent  condition  in  the  spring.  The  bees  have  gathered 
very  little  honey,  and  I  have  not  seen  a  swarm  from  the  hive.  Two 
1  lb.  sections  of  honey  are  all  I  have  had  from  it.  I  have  another  hive 
which  sent  out  a  swarm  in  May,  and  have  had  several  sections. — J.  D. 
[The  brood  in  the  piece  of  comb  forwarded  is  perfectly  healthy,  and  is 
not  affected  with  foul  brood.  Whoever  examined  them  in  the  spring  and 
reported  the  stocks  to  be  in  “excellent  condition”  was  doubtless  correct 
in  his  opinion.  If  the  bees  did  not  swarm,  the  queen  probably  died  from  old 
age  or  some  other  cause.  They  would  then  raise  another  queen,  and  there 
would  thus  be  a  delay  of  nearly  a  month  before  she  commenced  laying 
another  month  would  elapse  before  the  young  bees  were  collecting  honey. 
During  that  time  the  old  bees  would  dwindle  away,  so  that  few  remained 
in  the  hive,  and  this  would  account  for  there  being  but  two  sections 
obtained  from  this  stock.  As  “J.  D.”  is  a  novice  at  bee-keeping,  we 
may  inform  him  that  the  large  cells  sealed  over  were  filled  with  drones. 
The  worker  cells  had  brood  in  various  stages  of  development,  but  were 
not  in  such  an  advanced  stage  as  the  drones,  consequently  were  not  sealed 
over.  Judging  from  the  numerous  newly  laid  eggs,  we  consider  the 
stocK  is  now  headed  by  a  very  prolific  queen,  which  will  doubtless  do  well 
another  season.] 
