September  8,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
195 
Syringing*  should  be  continued  until  the  wood  shows  signs  of  becoming 
fairly  ripe.  We  must  remember  it  is  more  to  the  credit  of  the  man  in 
charge  at  the  close  of  the  season  to  have  clean  trees  than  otherwise,  and 
hence  our  need  of  thought,  care,  and  activity. 
Thinning  the  Fruit. — As  the  Peach  and  Nectarine  generally  set 
many  more  fruits  than  are  required  thinning  is  of  course  necessary.  This 
operation  should  take  place  by  degrees.  As  a  guide  thin  first  when  the 
fruits  are  very  small,  secondly  when  about  the  size  of  marbles,  and  finally 
after  the  stoning  period  is  over,  always  endeavouring  to  leave  the  best 
placed  fruits.  In  many  places  dropping  of  the  fruit  is  prevalent  at  stoning 
time,  hence  the  advisability  of  leaving  the  final  thinning  until  that  stage  is 
past.  From  a  well  set  healthy  tree,  if  the  fruits  be  thinned  to  about 
1  square  foot  of  surface,  we  shall  reap  a  rich  harvest  of  beautiful  Peaches, 
although  some  gardeners  go  closer  than  the  distance  named,  according  to 
circumstances  and  for  what  purposes  the  fruits  are  required. 
Exposing  the  Fruit. — As  the  fruits  approach  the  ripening  stage 
such  leaves  as  cover  them  should  either  be  removed  or  turned  aside  to 
enable  the  fruit  to  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun.  Some  gardeners  place 
a  short  lath  under  the  fruit  where  practicable,  turning  the  fruit  upwards 
towards  the  sun,  but  in  performing  this  operation  care  is  needed,  as  if 
awkwardly  placed  the  fruit  will  part  from  the  wood.  Properly  exposed 
fruits  have  a  more  tempting  appearance  when  ripe  as  the  colour  is  much 
more  even.  As  ripening  takes  place  gradually  admit  more  air  until  the 
trees  will  bear  the  maximum  amount.  Air  will  be  found  necessary  in 
imparting  good  flavour  to  the  fruit.  In  the  earliest  forced  houses  venti¬ 
lation  must  be  more  carefully  indulged  in,  especially  when  cold  winds 
prevail,  or  the  day  is  changeable. 
Experience  will  teach  us  when  the  fruit  is  in  fit  condition  for  gather¬ 
ing.  The  trees  should  bo  looked  over  each  day,  giving  those  fruits  of  the 
ripest  appearance  a  gentle  pressure  by  the  hand,  being  careful  not  to  bruise 
those  which  will  not  easily  part  from  the  wood. 
Ripening  the  Wood. — As  soon  as  all  the  fruits  are  gathered  the 
trees  must  be  gone  over,  cutting  out  all  old  bearing  wood  in  order  that 
the  new  wood  may  have  all  benefit,  not  only  in  strengthening  it,  but  that 
which  is  derived  from  the  sun.  Admit  plenty  of  air  into  the  houses,  and 
in  the  case  of  wet  or  cold  sunless  weather  ripening  is  aided  by  means 
of  gentle  heat  from  the  pipes.  It  must  be  remembered  that  unless  we 
have  well  ripened  wood  we  cannot  hope  for  a  grand  success  another  year. 
When  the  leaves  have  fallen  keep  the  houses  quite  cool,  only  just  excluding 
frost,  and  that  for  safety  of  the  pipes. — Semper. 
WQKK/oiitheWEEK.. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Shorter  days  necessitate  closing  the  house  earlier,  also 
syringing  sooner,  so  as  to  have  the  foliage  fairly  dry  before  dusk.  Fire 
heat  has  become  necessary  in  consequence  of  the  change  to  colder 
weather.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  65°  to  70° 
at  night.  Keep  the  growths  fairly  thin,  removing  old  shoots,  and 
encouraging  others  so  as  to  provide  a  succession  of  bearing  parts.  Stop 
the  shoots  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit  unless  growth  is  wanted,  then  allow 
more  extension,  but  avoid  crowding.  Encourage  root  action  by  a  steady 
bottom  heat  of  80°,  surface  dress  with  lumpy  manure,  and  afford  liquid 
manure  in  a  tepid  state  as  required. 
Autumn  Fruiters. — Afford  every  encouragement  to  these  plants, 
stopping  so  as  to  insure  an  even  spread  of  bearing  growths.  No  shading 
will  now  be  necessary.  Avoid  syringing  in  the  morning,  and  only  use 
the  syringe  on  fine  afternoons,  and  then  early  and  lightly,  keeping  the 
house  damped  as  occasion  requires.  Admit  air  in  moderation,  seeking  to 
encourage  sturdy  growths  by  early  ventilation,  and  closing  shortly  after 
midday. 
Winter  Fruiters. — The  plants  from  seed  sown  early  in  August  will 
now  be  fit  to  plant  out.  The  house  must  be  a  light  one,  have  means  of 
securing  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°  in  all  weathers,  and  of  maintaining 
a  bottom  heat  of  80°  to  90°.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  clearing  out 
all  the  old  soil,  and  scald  the  whole  of  the  interior  with  boiling  water. 
Wash  the  woodwork  with  carbolic  soap  and  a  brush,  glass  with  clean 
water,  and  limewash  the  walls.  If  rubble  is  used  about  and  over  the 
hot-water  pipes  for  bottom  heat,  clean  it  properly  and  secure  the  drainage 
with  a  layer  of  turves  grass  side  downwards.  This  should  also  be 
scaWed  as  a  safeguard  against  eel  worm,  similar  precaution  being  taken 
as  regards  the  compost.  Place  this  in  ridges  or  hillocks  about  2  feet  wide 
at  the  base,  10  to  12  inches  deep,  and  1  foot  across  at  the  top.  Turfy  loam 
laid  up  until  the  grass  is  killed,  chopped  up  rather  roughly  two-thirds, 
and  one-third  sandy  peat,  chopped  or  torn  up,  with  one-sixth  of  old 
mortar  rubbish,  and  twelfth  of  broken  charcoal  form  a  suitable  compost. 
It  should  be  neither  wet  nor  dry,  and  only  made  tolerably  firm.  Plant 
when  the  soil  is  warmed  through,  press  this  soil  gently,  and  secure  the 
plants  to  stakes  reaching  to  the  trellis.  Rub  off  the  laterals  to  that 
height,  and  stop  the  leading  shoot  at  about  the  second  or  third  wire  of 
the  trellis.  Shade  from  bright  suu  until  established.  Syringe  lightly  in 
the  afternoon,  damp  the  walls  and  paths,  and  maintain  a  day  temperature 
of  70°  to  75°,  rising  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  65°  to  70°  at  night. 
In  Fits  and  Frames. — Train  the  growths  thinly  as  a  safeguard  against 
damp.  Watering  must  be  done  early  and  judiciously,  as  damp  soon 
injures  Cucumbers  at  this  season.  A  light  sprinkling  may  be  given  at 
closing  time  on  fine  afternoons,  but  water  will  not  be  much  needed  after 
this,  or  very  little  of  it,  the  plants  obtaining  sufficient  moisture  from  the 
fermenting  beds.  Line  the  beds  with  stable  litter,  and  admit  a  little  air 
at  the  back  to  allow  of  any  steam  escaping.  The  temperature  should  be 
kept  at  about  65°  at  night.  Employ  a  covering  of  mats  over  the  lights 
on  cold  nights.  With  care  Cucumbers  will  be  obtained  from  these 
structures  for  many  weeks  to  come. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. — The  trees  are  now 
shedding  or  have  shed  their  leaves,  and  may  be  syringed  with  water  at  a 
temperature  of  140°.  This,  used  judiciously,  makes  an  end  of  red  spider, 
scale,  thrips,  and  brown  aphis.  Cleanse  the  house  at  once,  always  loosen¬ 
ing  the  trees  from  the  trellis,  and  dress  them,  after  pruning,  with  an 
insecticide.  Pruning  will  be  a  light  affair,  merely  thinning  the  shoots 
where  too  crowded  or  too  weak  for  the  production  of  fine  fruit,  no 
shortening  being  necessary  except  for  the  origination  of  shoots  for  ex¬ 
tension.  Tie  the  trees  to  the  trellis  loosely,  leaving  sufficient  room  for 
the  swelling  of  the  branches  and  shoots.  Remove  the  loose  surface  soil 
down  to  the  roots,  and  supply  a  couple  of  inches  of  fresh  loam,  and 
sprinkle  on  it  a  good  handful  per  square  yard  of  some  approved  fertiliser. 
Avoid  heavy  surface  mulchings  of  manure,  they  only  exclude  air.  If  the 
lights  have  been  removed  they  should  not  be  replaced  until  the  time 
arrives  for  starting  the  trees. 
Second  Early  House. — The  trees  are  beginning  to  shed  their  leaves, 
and  the  roof  -  lights  may  be  removed  if  not  already  done  in  August. 
This  plan  prevents  over-maturity  of  the  buds,  and  insures  their  being  well 
plumped.  It  also  prevents  to  a  great  extent  the  buds  falling  off  if  taken 
in  time.  When  the  leaves  are  all  down  treat  the  house  the  same  in  every 
respect  as  the  earliest  house.  If  the  roof-lights  are  not  movable  ventilate 
to  the  fullest  possible  extent. 
Succession  Houses. — Any  trees  that  have  a  tendency  to  over  luxuriance 
should  have  a  trench  taken  out  as  deeply  as  the  roots  about  one-third 
from  the  stem  the  branches  cover  of  trellis.  It  may  be  done  as  soon  as 
the  fruit  has  been  gathered,  or  as  soon  as  the  wood  has  become  sufficiently 
firm.  This  may  remain  open  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  then  the  soil 
carefully  removed  from  over  and  amongst  the  roots,  laying  these  in  fresh 
material,  good  loam  rather  stiff  being  the  best,  with  about  a  sixth  of  old 
mortar  rubbish.  If  a  good  watering  be  given  the  roots  will  soon  grow 
freely  in  the  fresh  compost,  and  the  fruits  invariably  set  well  afterwards. 
In  removing  the  old  soil  care  must  be  taken  not  to  disturb  the  roots  so  as 
to  cause  the  sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage.  This  plan  answers  well  for 
young  trees,  but  root-pruning  and  lifting  generally  should  be  deferred! 
until  the  leaves  give  indications  of  falling. 
Late  Houses. — Late  varieties  require  a  free  circulation  of  air,  utilising 
sun  heat  if  the  fruit  is  backward.  When  too  warm  and  dry  the  fruit  is 
apt  to  be  deficient  in  flavour  and  juice.  The  trees  must  have  sufficient 
water,  but  a  rather  drier  condition  at  the  roots  is  advisable  when  the  fruit 
is  ripening.  Keep  the  wood  thin,  stop  any  growing  shoot  to  about  15  inches,, 
and  all  laterals  closely  to  one  joint  as  growth  is  made. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Celery. — Market  gardeners  who  find  it  impossible  to  supply  water  or 
liquid  manure  to  their  Celery  are  at  a  disadvantage  this  season,  the  plants 
making  poor  progress  when  dry  at  the  roots  and  exposed  to  tropical  heat. 
In  private  gardens  a  thorough  soaking  of  water  or  liquid  manure  ought 
to  be  given  as  often  as  the  soil  in  the  trenches  approaches  dryness. 
Advantage  should  be  taken  of  dull  showery  weather  to  apply  more  liquid 
manure.  Celery  is  essentially  a  moisture-loving  plant,  and  not  supplying 
water  to  the  roots  after  moulding  up  has  commenced  is  frequently  the 
cause  of  many  plants  producing  flower  stems. 
Blanching  Celery.— Much  Celery  is  wasted  owing  to  insufficient  pains 
being  taken  with  the  work  of  moulding  up  the  rows.  Starting  too  late  is 
a  mistake,  as  when  the  plants  are  allowed  to  assume  their  natural  habit 
the  leaf-stalks  cannot  be  got  up  right  again  without  splitting  at  the  base. 
The  latest  rows  may  now  be  taken  in  hand.  All  sucker  growths  and 
small  leaves,  together  with  any  weeds  there  may  be,  should  be  removed,, 
and  soon  after  a  good  watering  is  given  enough  fine  soil  should  be  placed 
in  the  trenches  to  keep  the  leaf-stalks  together.  More  soil  should  be 
placed  round  the  successional  and  main  crop  plants.  The  earthing  must 
not  be  greatly  in  advance  of  the  central  growth,  too  much  soil  at  one  time 
causing  the  plants  to  split  at  the  base.  If  slugs  and  grubs  are  trouble¬ 
some  soot  ought  to  be  applied  freely  as  the  plants  are  moulded.  The 
cleanest  stalks  result  from  the  use  of  brown  paper  bandages,  these  keeping 
out  the  soil  and  lasting  till  disturbed  by  digging. 
Cabbage. — If  strong  young  plants  of  small-growing,  quick-hearting 
varieties  of  Cabbage  are  put  out  on  good  ground  now,  about  1  foot  apart 
each  way,  and  kept  watered  till  growing  freely,  they  may  yet  develop  to  a 
serviceable  size,  many  of  them  forming  small  hearts  for  winter  use.  With 
a  scarcity  of  other  vegetables  small  hearts  from  the  reserved  old  Cabbage 
stumps  may  prove  acceptable  during  the  next  few  weeks.  These  old 
plants  have  long  since  exhausted  the  ground  they  are  on  of  much  of  its 
fertility,  and  good  would  result  from  first  lightly  breaking  up  the  surface 
of  the  ground  with  a  fork  and  then  applying  liquid  manure  liberally. 
Onions,  Garlic,  and  Shallots. — Spring  sown  Onions,  including  those 
planted  out  of  boxes,  and  which  are  usually  the  earliest  to  mature,  may 
if  well  advanced,  but  still  rigid,  have  their  tops  or  necks  twisted  down, 
this  hastening  maturation,  but  avoid  pulling  the  crops  prematurely,  as 
this  will  end  in  their  keeping  badly.  Garlic  and  Shallots  in  many 
instances  are  quite  fit  for  storing  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  Any  that  have  only- 
just  been  pulled  should  be  spread  in  the  sun  and  be  turned  occasionally. 
