234 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  22, 1898. 
Mr.  S.  Mortimer  was  a  close  second  with  Captain,  Starfish,  E.  J.  Deal, 
Arachne,  and  Mrs.  W.  Noble.  Mr.  Keeble,  gardener  to  T.  W.  Sharp, 
Esq.,  Twyford,  third.  For  nine  sprays  of  three  Cactus  Mr.  Shoesmith  was 
first  with  good  sprays  of  C.  Woodbridge,  Annie  Nightingale,  and  Starfish. 
Mr.  R.  Keeble  second,  and  Mr.  W.  E.  Reeve  third.  For  twelve  blooms  of 
Cactus  Mr.  R.  Keeble  was  first,  Mr.  J.  W.  .Tones  second,  and  Mr.  S. 
Mortimer  third.  For  six  Pompons  Mr.  W.  C.  Pagram  was  first  ;  Mr. 
W.  Eacot,  Brox,  Chertsey,  second.  The  amateur  classes,  open  to  those 
who  do  not  employ  professional  assistance,  were  well  filled,  and  produced 
some  exceedingly  good  blooms  ;  Mr.  J.  W.  Jones,  Mr.  A.  G.  Clinton, 
Mr.  W.  E.  Reeves,  being  the  most  successful  exhibitors. — Visitor. 
PERENNIAL  PHLOXES. 
This  is  certainly  the  most  beautiful  of  hardy  autumn  flowers  ;  it  is 
easily  cultivated,  and  a  succession  of  flowers  can  be  obtained  from  it  in 
the  latter  part  of  summer  and  throughout  the  autumn.  It  is  extremely 
valuable  for  planting  in  mixed  borders,  and  for  the  flower  garden;  also 
for  growing  in  pots  for  the  decoration  of  the  greenhouse  and  conservatory. 
Although  the  Phlox  is  worthy  of  cultivation  in  any  garden,  it  is  just 
the  flower  for  the  cottager  or  the  owner  of  a  small  garden,  as  it  yields 
its  flowers  in  rich  and  luxuriant  profusion  without  the  aid  of  glass  houses, 
frames,  or  coddling  of  any  sort. 
There  are  two  sections  of  the  Phlox,  divided  into  early  and  late- 
flowering.  The  early-flowering  section  contains  numerous  very  beautiful 
varieties,  but  they  are  wanting  in  the  rich  orange-red,  crimson,  and 
purple  shades  of  the  late  varieties.  I  find  they  do  not  thrive  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  London  so  well  as  the  late  sorts.  It  seems  to  me 
that  they  require  a  cool  and  moist  atmosphere,  as  in  Scotland  the  early 
warieties  are  preferred,  and  most  of  the  new  varieties  are  raised  there. 
In  the  south  of  England  it  is  best  to  grow  the  late-flowering  section, 
although  it  is  as  well  to  have  a  few  of  the  others  in  order  to  prolong 
the  season  of  flowering.  They  require  the  same  treatment,  and  both 
sections  will  well  repay  the  amount  of  care  required  to  keep  them  in 
good  order.  The  culture  is  very  simple,  but  their  wants  must  be  attended 
to  at  the  proper  time,  otherwise  success  will  not  be  attained. 
I  shall  begin  with  established  plants,  such  as  may  be  obtained  from 
the  nurseries  A  plant  in  a  small  pot  which  has  been  rooted  in  the 
spring,  and  sent  out  in  the  autumn,  will  throw  up  from  the  base  of  the 
stem  a  number  of  shoots.  When  these  have  grown  3  or  4  inches  in 
length  all  except  three  must  be  taken  off  to  make  cuttings.  Some  light 
sandy  mould  should  be  prepared,  and  one  cutting  inserted  in  the  centre 
of  a  3-inch  pot ;  they  root  freely,  especially  if  the  pots  can  be  plunged 
in  a  gentle  bottom  heat  in  a  manure  frame.  When  the  cuttings  are 
rooted  the  plants  should  be  removed  to  a  cold  frame,  and  gradually 
inured  to  the  cold  ;  for  although  the  plant  is  quite  hardy,  it  dislikes 
sudden  changes  of  temperature.  Some  of  the  plants  ought  to  be  reserved 
for  pot  culture,  and  others  for  planting  but. 
The  plants  intended  for  pot  culture  should,  as  soon  as  the  pots  are 
well  filled  with  roots,  be  placed  in  6-inch  pots,  shifting  them  afterwards 
into  8-inch  pots,  in  which  they  may  be  allowed  to  flower.  This  size  I 
find  to  be  the  best  for  floworing  strong,  early,  spring-rooted  cuttings,  and 
noble  spikes  of  flowers  are  obtained  in  this  way,  when  the  plants  receive 
careful  attention.  If  the  plants  intended  to  be  grown  and  flowei^d  in 
pots  are  from  cuttings  rooted  in  the  previous  season,  three  shoots  may 
be  allowed  from  each  plant,  and  they  should  be  flowered  in  10-inch  pots. 
The  best  compost  to  use  is  three  parts  of  sandy  loam,  one  part  of  leaf 
mould,  and  one  part  of  decayed  manure.  During  the  growing  period  the 
pots  ought  to  be  plunged  in  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  in  the  full  sun,  but 
sheltered  from  cutting  winds,  and  be  abundantly  supplied  with  water. 
Occasional  waterings  with  weak  manure  water  will  be  beneficial.  At  an 
early  stage  of  their  growth  sticks  may  be  put  in  ;  these  should  stand 
2  feet  out  of  the  ground  and  be  rather  stout,  as  a  well-grown  spike  offers 
considerable  resistance  to  the  wind. 
For  culture  in  the  open  ground,  the  Phlox  should  be  planted  in  beds 
if  the  finest  possible  spikes  be  desired.  A  few  plants  in  a  mixed  border 
are  a  pleasing  feature,  and  contrast  well  with  Delphiniums  and  other 
herbaceous  plants,  but  it  is  not  easy  to  pay  proper  attention  to  them  in 
such  a  position.  Four  rows  may  be  planted  in  each  bed,  with  an  alley 
between  wide  enough  to  allow  a  man  to  pass  along  with  a  watering  pot 
without  damaging  the  spikes.  If  one  spike  only  is  allowed  to  each  plant, 
16  inches  apart  in  the  beds  will  be  sufficient ;  if  three  spikes,  24  inches 
should  be  allowed.  Early  in  March  is  the  best  time  to  plant  them,  and 
the  ground  must  be  deeply  trenched  and  highly  manured.  The  plants 
will  also  reqirire  copious  supplies  of  water  during  the  growing  season, 
and  the  beds  should  be  also  mulched  with  short  manure  to  prevent 
evaporation. — G. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Achimenes. 
The  culture  of  these  beautiful  and  useful  plants  seems  to  be  on  the 
decrease,  and  this,  I  think,  is  a  great  pity.  I  have  often  heard  it 
remarked,  “  Oh  !  anyone  can  grow  them.”  If  such  is  the  case,  cannot 
the  same  be  said  of  many  more  plants  that  are  to  be  seen  everywhere, 
such  as  Begonias,  Cyclamen,  and  “  Geraniums  ?  ”  Grown  in  pots  and 
pans  of  various  sizes  they  are  most  useful  for  the  conservatory,  for  vases, 
or  as  a  table  plant.  Of  the  many  varieties  that  are  in  cultivation  we  find 
Achimenes  longiflora  and  Dr.  Hoph,  very  vigorous  and  free  bloomers  ; 
the  former  is  a  dark  blue,  while  the  latter  is  white  and  purple. 
Where  some  err  in  growiug  Achimenes  is  by  giving  them  too  much 
heat,  also  of  peat,  causing  long  soft  growth,  which  does  not  ripen 
sufficiently  to  allow  for  good  stout  flowers  and  depth  of  colour.  The 
compost  we  use  is  three  parts  good  leaf  mould  to  one  of  light  loam,  sand 
and  charcoal  to  keep  the  whole  porous  and  sweet.  The  tubers  are  started 
in  April  in  pure  sand,  and  placed  in  a  temperature  of  60°  by  night ;  kept 
moist  they  soon  start  into  growth,  and  when  the  plants  are  large  enough  are 
pricked  off  into  their  flowering  pans  or  pots,  using  the  compost  as  above. 
We  pinch  them  once  only,  and  that  when  the  growth  is  about  4  inches 
long  ;  after  which  they  are  placed  in  a  cool  vinery  or  spent  hotbed,  with  a 
night  temperature  of  50°,  but  in  all  cases  close  to  the  glass  and  shaded 
from  hot  sun.  The  syringe  is  rarely  used,  their  surroundings  being  kept 
moist.  In  June  they  are  removed  to  a  cold  frame,  admitting  abundance 
of  air  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Growing  them  hard  and  wiry  from 
the  first  they  require  but  little  staking,  and  continue  in  bloom  over  a  long 
period. — Paryo. 
Early  and  Late  Peas. 
I  THANK  “First  Journeyman  ”  for  his  brief  notes  (page  174)  on  the 
above  subject.  This  is  the  sort  of  thing  which  should  tend  to  make  the 
“  Domain  ”  of  real  interest  and  usefulness.  Allow  me  to  add,  that  as 
‘  F.  J.”  has  quoted  the  date  of  gathering  his  Peas,  it  has  induced  me  to 
make  an  inspection  of  the  book  kept  for  recording  such  items,  with  the 
result  that  I  find  the  actual  date  of  gathering  our  last  dish  of  Peas  in 
1897  was  the  15th  of  November,  and  I  still  maintain  we  could  have 
gathered  a  few  more  dishes  had  the  weather  remained  open. 
For  early  gathering,  however,  “F.  J.”  takes  the  lead,  but  he  does  not 
say  whether  the  Peas  were  actually  sown  out  of  doors,  or  whether  they 
were  sown  in  pots  or  on  turves  under  glass  for  the  first  crop.  Will 
he  kindly  furnish  us  with  the  date  of  the  year  in  which  his  feat  was 
accomplished  1 — T.  P. 
WORKfoutkeWEEK.. 
h 
-j 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers.— The  plants  for  winter  fruiting  should  be  placed  out  as 
soon  as  they  are  ready,  good  bottom  heat  being  essential  to  success, 
whether  it  be  obtained  by  fermenting  materials  or  hot-water  pipes. 
The  soil  may  consist  of  light  turfy  loam,  with  a  third  part  of  peat,  a 
sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  and  a  tenth  of  “nuts”  charcoal,  the  whole 
well  incorporated.  For  imparting  vigour  later  rely  on  liquid  manure 
and  surface  dressings  in  preference  to  employing  manure  in  the  compost. 
Autumn  Fruiters. — A  healthy  and  vigorous  growth  must  be  secured  by 
a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  but  avoid  a  close  and  saturated 
state  by  judicious  ventilation,  always  being  careful  not  to  admit  cold 
drying  currents.  Keep  the  growths  fairly  thin,  going  over  the  plants 
twice  a  week  for  stopping  and  removing  superfluous  growths,  being 
careful  not  to  overcrop  the  plants.  Be  sparing  in  the  use  of  water, 
especially  over  the  foliage,  but  damp  the  floor  and  walls  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon,  gradually,  however,  reducing  the  moisture  as  the  days 
shorten  and  the  sun  heat  declines.  Add  a  little  fresh  previously  warmed 
soil  about  once  a  fortnight  to  the  hillocks  or  ridges,  applying  weak 
liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week  as  may  be  necessary.  Fumigate  on 
two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  if  aphides  appear,  and  be  careful  not  to 
give  too  much. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —  Trees  Ripening  the  Fruit  in  July. — The 
trees  will  now  be  approaching  the  resting  period  and  the  foliage  becoming 
sere.  Supply  them  with  water  so  as  to  keep  the  soil  moistened  through 
to  the  drainage.  If  in  good  condition  the  roof-lights  may  be  removed, 
if  not  already  done  in  August,  and  they  can  remain  off  until  the  end  of 
the  year  or  later,  but  if  the  wood  is  not  ripe  it  is  not  wise  to  expose  the 
trees  to  heavy  rains  and  snow.  The  removal  of  the  roof-lights  when  the 
wood  is  firm  and  the  buds  plumped  insures  rest  and  the  thorough 
moistening  of  the  border.  When  the  trees  are  very  strong  it  is  advisable 
to  take  out  a  trench  about  one-third  the  height  of  the  trees  from  the 
stem,  and  detach  all  roots  down  to  the  drainage,  leaving  the  trench  open 
for  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  when  it  may  be  filled  firmly.  This  opera¬ 
tion  must  not  be  done  until  the  growth  is  complete  and  the  wood  firm. 
Young  trees  may  be  operated  upon  sooner  in  order  to  check  growth  and 
induce  bud  formation  and  ripening  of  the  wood.  These  and  older  trees 
with  strong  wood  may  be  lifted,  wholly  or  partially,  when  the  leaves  give 
indications  of  falling.  In  the  case  of  weakly  trees  remove  the  old  soil 
from  over  and  amongst  the  roots,  supplying  fresh,  rather  strong  loam 
with  an  addition  of  calcareous  matter  when  the  loam  is  not  of  that  nature, 
making  it  firm,  and  following  with  a  good  soaking  of  liquid  manure. 
Trees  Ripening  the  Fruit  in  August  and  Early  September. — Cut  out  the 
wood  that  has  borne  fruit,  leaving  no  more  than  can  be  freely  exposed 
to  light  and  air.  Cleanse  the  foliage  of  dust  and  red  spider  by  water 
directed  with  force  from  a  garden  engine  or  syringe,  and  repeat  occa¬ 
sionally.  If  there  is  scale  promptly  apply  an  insecticide,  also  against 
red  spider  and  brown  aphis,  which  sometimes  attack  the  younger  parts  of 
the  wood  in  autumn,  and  can  be  destroyed  by  diluted  tobacco  juice.  There 
must  be  no  lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  therefore  apply  water  to 
the  inside  borders  as  necessary  to  prevent  their  becoming  too  dry.  Afford 
