248 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  29,  189b. 
National  Chrysanthemum  Society. 
On  Monday  evening  last  the  Executive  Committee  of  this  Society 
held  a  meeting  at  Carr’s  Restaurant,  Strand,  Mr.  T.  W.  Sanders 
occupying  the  chair. 
The  usual  preliminaries  having  been  disposed  of,  it  was  announced 
by  the  Secretary  that  the  prize  money  awarded  at  the  recent 
September  show  of  early  Chrysanthemums,  &c.,  had  been  paid,  and 
that  the  following  awards  to  miscellaneous  exhibits  were  made  by  the 
Arbitration  Committee — viz.,  small  gold  medals  to  Mr.  II.  J.  Jones 
and  Mr.  T.  S.  Ware;  silver-gilt  medals  to  Mr.  Green,  Mr.  Mattock, 
and  Mr.  Witty;  silver  medals  to  Mr.  Chard,  Messrs.  Canned,  and  Mr. 
F.  W.  Seale ;  small  silver  medals  to  Mr.  Foster  and  Mr.  Wells,  and 
a  bronze  medal  to  Mr.  T.  Williams,  all  of  which  awards  were 
confirmed. 
It  was  resolved  that  the  Catalogue  and  Classification  Committee 
hold  a  meeting  during  the  November  show. 
Mr.  Waterer  called  attention  to  the  prevalence  of  Chrysanthemum 
rust,  and  considered  the  Society  ought  to  take  some  action  in  the 
matter,  as  it  was  of  vital  importance  to  all  growers.  Mr.  Waterer  gave 
his  own  experience  of  the  disease,  and  was  followed  by  several  other 
speakers,  whose  experience  seemed,  in  some  cases,  to  vary.  Finally  it 
was  resolved  that  a  committee  be  appointed  to  engage  an  expert  to 
lecture  on  the  subject  at  a  conference  to  be  arranged  for  the  evening  of 
the  first  day  of  the  October  show.  This  course  seemed  to  meet  with 
very  general  approval. 
New  members  were  elected,  and  the  Timaru  Chrysanthemum  Club 
was  admitted  in  affiliation. 
A  meeting  of  the  Floral  Committee  was  held  on  Monday  last  at 
the  Royal  Aquarium,  Mr.  T.  Bevan  presiding.  The  meeting  was  a 
small  one,  there  being  but  few  members  present,  and  a  very  small 
number  of  exhibits.  Crimson  Pride,  a  medium-size  Japanese  with  flat, 
stiff  florets,  colour  deep  crimson,  was  commended.  Yellow  Queen,  a 
pure  pale  yellow  sport  from  Queen  of  the  Earlies,  was  promising,  and 
the  Committee  asked  to  see  it  again.  Probably  one  of  the  best  was 
Soleil  d’Octobre,  a  finely  formed  Japanese  with  long  drooping  florets; 
colour  very  pure  pale  yellow  with  silvery  yellow  reverse.  No  certifi¬ 
cates  avere  awarded.  Two  new  cups  and  tubes  were  exhibited,  one 
by  Mr.  Burgin,  the  other  by  Mr.  Wright. 
Seasonable  Notes. 
Probably  a  few  seasonable  hints  on  Chrysanthemums  will  be 
appreciated  by  some  readers,  especially  those  whose  experience  in 
their  cultivation  is  only  of  limited  duration. 
During  the  past  few  weeks  growers  have  been  busy  securing  those 
buds  which  practice  and  knowledge  of  varieties  have  proved  give  the 
most  satisfactory  blooms  from  the  exhibitor’s  point  of  view,  or  where 
large  flowers  are  required  for  decoration.  The  buds  thus  secured  are 
mainly  crown  buds,  these  giving  the  largest  blooms.  Many  varieties, 
including  the  majority  of  the  incurved,  will  have  had  the  terminal 
buds  secured  with  the  expectation  that  flowers  of  excellent  quality 
will  result.  Japanese  varieties,  as  a  rule,  produce  the  best  flowers  on 
crown  buds,  but  where  the  plants  are  late  in  making  their  first  break — 
that  is,  when  the  first  crown  bud  is  produced,  which  is  invariably 
useless  and  is  not  wanted,  the  shoots  which  follow  do  not  make  a 
second  crown,  but  end  in  a  terminal  cluster  of  buds.  The  central  one 
of  these  should  be  retained,  and  the  others  carefully  rubbed  out  with 
the  side  of  the  thumb.  This  is  a  far  more  expeditious  and  safer  plan 
than  using  a  penknife.  Few,  if  any,  plants  will  now  be  showing 
crown  buds,  the  best  time  for  securing  them  now  being  past,  terminal 
growths  taking  their  place.  Flowers  produced  from  terminals  are 
usually  smaller  in  size,  but  the  colour  and  form  are  almost  always 
superior.  For  this  reason  they  are  preferred  when  required  as  cut 
flowers,  as  well  as  to  remain  on  the  plants  to  embellish  the 
conservatory. 
Some  Chrysanthemums  are  exceedingly  effective  when  all  the 
buds  produced  by  terminal  shoots  are  allowed  to  remain.  Others 
need  slight  disbudding.  As  a  rule,  the  smaller  the  size  of  individual 
blooms  the  less  necessity  there  is  to  disbud.  It  then  need  only  be 
practised  when  the  plants  are  growing  in  pots. 
Side  shoots  produced  in  the  axils  of  the  main  leaves  require 
constantly  rubbing  out,  also  sucker  growths  emanating  from  the  base 
of  the  main  stem  or  pushing  from  the  roots.  The  latter  must  not 
be  persistently  removed  when  the  flowering  period  is  past  its  best,  as 
such  growths  form  the  best  cuttings. 
The  flowering  stems  must  be  kept  properly  secured  so  that  no 
damage  will  be  sustained  by  the  buds.  The  largest  of  these  must  be 
kept  in  an  upright  position  in  order  to  develop  equally  and  produce  a 
well  balanced  flower. 
Feeding  the  plants  is  important,  as  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  overdo 
it  by  giving  stimulants  too  often  or  too  strong.  It  is  only  plants  that 
have  filled  the  pots  with  roots  that  require  or  appreciate  additional 
food.  Feeding  is  seldom  needed  before  the  buds  begin  to  form.  Weak 
applications  of  liquid  manure  in  a  perfectly  clear  state  should  be 
given,  alternating  with  clear  soot  water,  and  occasional  sprinklings  of 
concentrated  manure  at  the  rate  of  a  tablespoonful  to  a  10-inch  pot. 
Good  liquid  may  be  made  from  horse,  cow,  or  sheep  manure.  A 
peck  of  either  may  be  placed  in  a  bag,  which  ought  to  be  sunk  in  a 
tub  containing  30  gallons  of  water.  After  standing  a  few  days  the 
liquid  will  be  ready  for  use  without,  as  a  rule,  any  dilution  being 
necessary.  Soot  also  ought  to  be  placed  in  a  bag,  using  the  same 
quantity  as  the  manure  to  a  30-gallon  tub  of  water. 
It  is  best  to  supply  these  stimulants  alternately,  soot  water  one 
week,  animal  manure  water  another  week,  a  sprinkling  of  artificial 
manure  the  next,  but  they  ought  not  to  be  applied  when  the  plants 
are  extremely  dry  until  a  watering  with  clear  water  has  been  given. 
It  will  do  no  harm,  however,  if  given  to  well-rooted  plants  that  are 
partially,  but  not  dust  dry.  To  this  last  condition  plants  in  pots 
ought  never  to  reach,  but  if  through  any  mishap  it  does  occur,  the 
best  reviver  is  clear  soft  water. 
Top-dressing  is  an  excellent  method  of  encouraging  increased  root 
action,  thus  imparting  to  the  plants  vigorous  growth  at  a  time  when 
they  most  need  it.  The  top-dressing  may  consist  of  loam,  a  little 
decomposed  manure,  crushed  charcoal,  sand,  and  a  pound  of  some 
general  artificial  manure  to  1  bushel  of  soil,  the  whole  thoroughly 
mixed.  Spread  it  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  the  pots,  pressing 
firmly.  Water  the  plants  with  a  rosed  can  to  avoid  washing  it  away, 
continuing  this  until  roots  take  possession.  A  piece  of  slate,  or  an 
oyster  shell,  is  convenient  to  lay  on  the  soil  to  help  to  distribute  the 
water  when  applied  from  the  spout  of  a  can  without  the  rose. 
The  active  formation  of  roots  results  in  some  of  them  passing 
through  the  drainage  and  rooting  in  the  soil  below  the  pots.  This 
may  be  prevented  by  occasional  lifting  and  cutting  off  any  roots  which 
may  have  entered  the  soil.  If  allowed  to  root  freely  before  detaching 
them  a  check  is  given  to  the  plants  when  the  roots  are  cut  off,  which 
must  be  done  on  removing  them. 
Good  cultural  attention  given  to  the  plants  prevents  insects 
attacking  them.  Earwigs  are  not  so  troublesome  either  when  the 
summer  position  is  selected  away  from  hedges,  shrubs,  and  trees. 
Should  they  be  numerous  take  the  usual  precautions  of  trapping 
and  destroying  them.  No  dead  leaves  ought  to  be  left  on  the  plants, 
as  they  afford  excellent  hiding  places  for  the  marauders. 
The  necessity  for  housing  the  most  forward  plants  is  now  imperative  ; 
those  especially  which  are  showing  colour  ought  to  be  placed  under 
cover,  as  moisture  from  dews  or  rain  is  likely  to  settle  among  the 
florets  of  large  flowers,  ultimately  causing  damping.  Follow  on  with 
housing  the  rest  of  the  collection  as  soon  as  possible.  Exception 
may  be  made  with  the  latest  flowering  varieties,  which  can  remain 
out — if  given  slight  shelter  from  frosts — some  time  longer.  Before 
removing  the  plants  inside  examine  the  foliage  for  mildew.  Some 
varieties  are  much  subject  to  the  fungus  which  may  be  found  as  a 
deposit  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Afterwards  it  may  spread 
to  the  upper  surface,  also  the  stems  and  flowers.  An  application  of 
sulphur  will  destroy  it.  Mix  a  good  handful  of  sulphur  in  a  4-gallon 
can  of  soapy  water  and  syringe  this  upon  the  plants,  laying  them 
down  so  as  to  reach  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves.  The  pots  must 
also  be  cleansed  from  dirt  before  carrying  them  indoors. 
The  position  assigned  for  the  plants  under  glass  must  be  as  light 
and  airy  as  can  be  secured.  The  plants  ought  not  to  be  too  close  to 
the  roof  glass,  because  of  the  great  variation  in  temperature  and  the 
excessive  light  when  the  sun  is  upon  the  house.  A  slight  shading  may 
require  to  be  fixed  to  prevent  damage  by  strong  sunshine  to  fully 
developed  blooms,  and  help  to  retain  all  in  a  fresh  condition  as  long  as 
possible. 
Watering  must  be  regularly  attended  to,  examining  the  plants 
frequently  to  ascertain  their  need  for  moisture.  The  supplies  of 
liquid  manure  may  be  continued  to  the  plants  until  the  blooms  are 
well  advanced,  alter  which  clear  water  will  be  best  for  them.  The 
waterings  ought  to  be  given  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  so  that 
superfluous  moisture  may  dry  up  in  good  time.  Although  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  are  best  in  a  cool,  airy  structure,  there  will  be  occasional 
need  for  a  little  artificial  heat,  especially  where  there  is  a  predominance 
of  large  blooms.  Moisture  from  the  atmosphere  condensing  upon  the 
florets  and  accumulating  without  corresponding  evaporation  is  the  cause 
of  damping.  The  occasional  use  of  fire  heat  serves  to  rectify  this  by 
causing  a  light  and  buoyant  atmosphere  to  exist  instead  of  close 
and  muggy  air.  Ventilation  should  be  constant,  varying,  however, 
more  or  less  in  accordance  with  outside  conditions. — E.  D.  S. 
