September  29,  1898 
■JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
255 
higher  than  previously,  but  only  so  that  the  roots  may  lie  under  better 
conditions  regarding  warmth  and  soil,  but  with  due  regard  to  the  supply 
of  moisture.  The  longest  roots  found  when  the  trees  are  raised  may  be 
cut  back  to  the  ball.  In  some  cases  there  may  not  be  a  sufficiently  large 
amount  of  adhering  soil,  thus  the  loose  roots  will  require  spreading  out 
in  a  careful  manner.  Shorten  the  strong  roots  slightly.  Make  the  soil 
firm  about  the  roots,  using  good  fertile  material,  but  no  manure,  which 
is  best  laid  on  the  surface  as  a  mulch  to  retain  the  moisture,  which 
must  be  supplied  to  the  trees.  Syringing  will  be  of  benefit  in  assisting 
re-establishment. 
Established  Fan-trained  Trees. — The  treatment  to  be  recommended 
in  the  management  of  the  growths  of  Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  also 
Morello  Cherries,  consists  in  utilising  largely  new  wood  annually.  After 
the  trees  are  cleared  of  fruit,  superfluous  wood  may  be  dispensed  with, 
including  the  past-bearing  shoots,  weakly  and  exhausted  branches,  thus 
leaving  space  for  the  training-in  of  the  new  shoots.  The  best  placed  of 
these  ought  to  be  selected  and  laid  in  without  overcrowding.  In  the 
process  there  will  therefore,  be  some  surplus  shoots  for  which  no  room 
can  be  found.  Cut  these  out  entirely,  where  there  will  be  no  advantage 
in  shortening  them  to  form  spurB.  Ripening  of  the  wood  will  be  better 
effected  after  the  laying  in  and  regulating  has  been  carried  out,  sun  and 
air  having  free  access  to  each  branch  anil  shoot. 
Improving  Horizontally  Wall-trained  Trees. — It  frequently  happens 
that  the  branches  of  these,  chiefly  Pears,  are  allowed  to  remain  too 
closely  arranged  years  after  the  space  between  them  has  become  limited. 
The  elongation  of  the  spurs,  as  well  as  their  increase  in  number,  tend  to 
fill  up  the  space.  There  should,  in  consequence,  be  a  little  shortening 
and  thinning  out  of  the  spurs  annually'.  Some  good  may  be  effected  by 
removing  every  other  branch  wherever  they  have  been  originated  closer 
together  than  a  foot.  This  can  be  carried  out  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is 
gathered,  as  while  the  foliage  remains  on  the  trees  a  better  judgment  can 
be  formed  of  the  reduction  necessary. 
Strawberries. — The  clearance  of  runners  from  Strawberry  beds  should 
be  comple  ed.  Withered  foliage  also  ought  to  be  cut  away',  but  none  that 
is  healthy.  Young  and  strong-rooted  plants  may  be  found  between  the 
rows  which  will  serve  for  forming  new  plantations,  either  planting 
permanently  now  in  rows  on  well -prepared  ground  or  in  nursery  beds, 
placing  them  fi  inches  apart  in  the  latter,  where  they  can  remain  for  the 
winter  and  be  planted  in  spring.  Established  beds,  when  clear  of  runners 
and  weeds,  may  be  mulched  with  decomposed  manure  us  an  autumn 
dressing. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherries.— A  house  of  Cherries  is  not  common,  but  there  is  no  fruit 
grown  under  glass  more  useful  for  dessert.  The  structure  for  Cherries 
must  be  light,  well  ventilated  both  at  the  top  and  bottom,  and  efficiently 
heated.  Hide  lights  may  be  dispensed  with,  but  wooden  ventilators 
should  be  provided  to  open  the  whole  length  of  the  hou-e.  The  trees 
can  he  trained  to  a  trellis  fixed  12  inches  from  the  glass,  or  they  may 
he  grown  as  bushes  or  low  standards.  A  lean-to  facing  south  is  best  for 
early  forcing,  and  it  may  be  0  feet  wide  against  a  wall  10  or  12  feet  high, 
a  trell ia  fixed  in  front  and  up  the  roof,  the  trees  being  either  grown 
as  cordons  or  in  fan  form.  Two  rows  of  4-inch  pipes  will  be  sufficient. 
The  roof-lights  should  be  movable.  For  trees  in  pots  the  house  may  be 
of  any  width,  but  12  feet  a'  swers  well  for  a  lean-to.  Borders  for  planted- 
out  trees  are  best  inside,  and  in  no  case  need  exceed  the  width  of  the 
house,  but  4  feet  width  of  border  is  sufficient  to  commence  with.  It 
should  be  drained  9  to  12  inches  deep,  having  proper  drains  to  carry  off 
superfluous  water.  Brickbats,  with  a  3-inch  layer  of  old  mortar  rubbish 
over  them,  answer  well  for  drainage.  From  20  to  24  inches  depth  of 
border  Is  ample,  but  allowing  about  one-fourth  more  for  settling.  Good 
turfy  loam,  preferably  inclined  to  be  heavy  rather  than  light,  four  parts  ; 
lime  rubbish,  from  an  old  building,  one-fifth  ;  and  road  scrapings  one- 
sixth,  the  loam  chopped  up  moderately  small,  the  whole  wi  ll  incorporated, 
form  a  suitable  compost  for  Cherries.  The  trees  may  be  planted  as  soon 
as  the  leaves  begin  to  fall.  Those  that  have  been  trained  to  walls  three 
to  six  years  are  the  most  suitable,  as  they  will  be  in  a  bearing  state  and 
calculated  to  give  a  crop  of  fruit  the  first  season,  and  having  been 
prepared  for  lifting  the  previous  year  they  can  be  moved  safely.  The 
borders  should  be  put  together  compactly,  the  trees  firmly  planted,  and  a 
good  watering  given,  mulching  the  roots  with  a  couple  of  inches  of  short 
but  not  soapy  manure.  The  most  suitable  varieties  are  Early  Rivers, 
Black  Tartarian,  Governor  Wood,  and  Elton. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots.  —  The  Vines  to  produce  ripe  fruit  at  the 
end  of  March  or  beginning  of  April  should  not  be  started  later  than  the 
beginning  of  November.  They  must  now  be  pruned  and  the  cuts  dressed 
with  styptic,  keeping  in  a  cool  place,  and  where  the  soil  will  only  be 
moderately  moist.  Excessive  wet  causes  the  decay  of  the  fibres.  If  the 
canes  have  to  be  procured  lose  no  time  in  placing  orders.  White  Fron- 
tignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court  are 
reliable  varieties. 
Early  F</rced  Houses.— 'll  is  not  advisable  to  start  permanently  planted 
Vines  in  November  to  have  Grapes  during  April  where  there  is  convenience 
for  growing  some  in  pots,  as  very  early  forcing  is  a  great  strain  on  the 
energies  ot  the  Vines,  through  their  having  to  grow  at  the  dullest  period 
of  the  year  and  rest  at  the  hottest  If  not  already  pruned  the  Vines  must 
be  attended  to  at  once,  also  those  to  be  started  in  December  should  be 
pruned  as  soon  as  the  foliage  commences  to  fall,  so  as  to  give  them  a 
few  weeks’  rest.  Outside  borders,  which  are  a  great  mistake  where  early 
forcing  isjpractised,  should  be  protected  from  autumn  rains  by  covering 
them  before  the  ground  is  chilled  with  continued  wet  and  cold.  A  good 
covering  of  dry  leaves  with  a  little  litter  to  prevent  the  leaves  blowing 
about  is  an  effective  protection.  The  borders,  however,  need  not  be 
covered  until  they  have  been  well  moistened  by  the  autumn  rains. 
Midseason  Homes. — Black  Hamburghs  and  other  descriptions  of  black 
Grapes  have  the  colour  taken  out  of  them  by  hanging,  and  can  only  be 
lessened  by  a  good  spread  of  foliage  or  drawing  a  double  thickness  of 
herring  nets  over  the  roof-lights.  The  latter  is  the  preferable  plan,  as 
lateral  growths  interfere  with  light  to  the  principal  leaves,  and  the  free 
access  of  air  so  desirable  for  maturing  the  wood.  Vines  from  which  the 
Grapes  have  been  cut  may  have  the  growths  shortened  to  a  few  joints  above 
the  buds,  first  curtailing  the  laterals,  and  the  n  cutting  back  the  main 
growths.  This  insures  the  buds  becoming  plumper,  whilst  the  freer  access 
of  light  and  air  affects  the  wood  favourably.  A  free  circulation  of  air  is 
necessary  to  expel  damp  where  Grapes  are  hanging,  with  a  little 
constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  a  gentle 
warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes  being  necessary  when  the  external  air  is 
cold  and  damp  ;  but  the  wood  being  ripe,  and  the  growth  matured,  it 
will  suffice  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°,  and  the  cooler  by  day  the 
house  is  kept  the  longer  the  Grapes  will  keep  plump.  Vinos  with 
unripened  wood  should  not  have  a  less  temperature  than  60°,  and  this 
with  a  free  circulation  of  air  must  be  continued  until  there  is  no  doubt  on 
that  point.  Keep  laterals  well  in  check,  not  allowing  them  to  interfere 
with  the  chief  growths. 
Late  Gropes. — Where  the  Vines  were  started  in  March,  and  aided  in 
spring  by  fire  heat,  as  well  as  during  the  summer,  the  Grapes  will  be 
thoroughly  ripe,  which  is  much  better  than  having  to  maintain  a  forcing 
temperature  after  October  comes  in  to  secure  the  ripening  of  the  fruit.  In 
the  latter  case  the  temperature  must  not  he  less  than  70°  to  75°  by  day  and 
65°  at  night,  falling  5°  through  the  night,  allowing  an  advance  to  80°  or  85° 
from  sun  heat,  continuing  this  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  at  least  until  the 
wood  is  brown  and  hard.  The  fruit  being  thoroughly  ripe— in  which 
state  only  can  the  Grapes  be  expected  to  keep  satisfactorily — and  the 
wood  thoroughly  matured,  all  sprays  or  laterals  may  be  removed  down  to 
the  main  buds,  ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Fire  heat 
will  then  only  be  necessary  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  .below  50°. 
To  prevent  dust  settling  on  the  berries  raking  or  sweeping  must  not  bo 
practised.  Mats  or  clean  dry  straw  laid  over  the  inside  borders  will  to 
some  extent  prevent  evaporation,  assist  in  keeping  the  atmosphere  dry, 
and  prevent  the  soil  cracking.  The  outside  borders  must  be  covered  if 
the  fruit  is  to  keep  well.  Glazed  lights  are  best,  wooden  shutters  good, 
and  tarpaulin  over  dry  bracken  or  straw  answers  well.  A  thick  thatch  of 
bracken  or  straw  is  very  serviceable. 
Youny  Fines.— Those  that  have  a  disposition  to  continue  growing  to 
a  late  period  may  be  checked  by  stopping  the  laterals  moderately,  and 
the  ripening  of  the  wood  will  be  facilitated  by  a  high  and  dry  temperature 
by  day,  shutting  off  the  heat,  and  keeping  the  ventilators  open  by  night, 
unless  frosty. 
w 
m  -I’-isidi 
l-j  -a  -  i~-~nr 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
:  -r- 1  •  r  •  -  r .  i  - 1  •T»rrr  -  r  -  \  ~r - 1  - 
Spreading  Foul  Brood. 
In  previous  notes  we  mentioned  the  subject  of  placing  cappings 
and  combs  in  the  open  air  for  the  bees  to  clear  ot  the  honey  they 
contain.  There  is,  however,  a  much  more  serious  side  to  the  question 
than  causing  excitement  in  the  apiary  and  the  robbing  of  weak  stocks. 
A  correspondent  writes,  “  I  had  foul  brood  in  my  apiary  for  at  least 
a  couple  of  years,  and  nothing  serious  happened  from  it  till  one  day  in 
autumn  I  had  a  great  number  of  frames  which  had  been  used  for 
extracting  purposes,  and  which  in  former  years  I  bad  placed  in  the 
hives  for  the  bees  to  clean  them  of  honey  before  stonng  them  away 
for  the  winter.  Instead  of  doing  so  on  this  occasion  they  were  all 
placed  in  the  open  air,  so  that  all  the  bees  from  the  various  hives  had 
free  access  to  them.  The  following  spring  I  found  I  had  foul  brood 
throughout  rny  apiary  ;  the  brood  in  many  instances  was  a  rotten 
mass.  The  worst  of  these  were  committed  to  the  flames — bees, 
frames,  and  hives.  Gut  of  sixty  colonies  forty  were  destroyed.  The 
remainder  were  eventually  cured,  and  I  have  now  not  a  case  of  foul 
brood  in  rny  apiary.  I  attribute  this  serious  outbreak  of  foul  brood 
to  the  exposing  of  the  combs  taken  from  the  stocks  in  which  there 
were  slight  cases  ol  this  dread  disease,  but  which  had  not  made  any 
headway  during  the  two  years  it  had  been  in  my  apiary.” 
The  above  shows  the  danger  of  exposing  combs  from  stocks  that 
are  only  slightly  affected  with  foul  brood,  and  the  serious  result  arising 
from  it.  A  whole  district  may  soon  become  affected  in  this  manner. 
Another  frequent  cause  of  foul  brood  being  spread  is  the  careless 
manner  in  which  foul  stocks  are  destroyed.  Instead  of  making  a  fire 
at  night  and  burning  every  vestige  of  bees,  combs,  and  frames,  the 
operation  is  left  until  the  middle  of  the  day,  when  numerous  bees  are 
on  the  wing.  These  are  attracted  by  the  smell  of  the  burning  wax 
and  the  honey  contained  in  the  combs,  the  latter  being  only  partly 
consumed,  and  the  bees  will  in  a  short  space  of  time  clear  out  all  the 
honey  which  is  affected  with  the  disease.  It  is  thus  carried  by  the 
bees  to  the  other  colonies,  and  the  disease  is  spre  id  at  a  rapid  rate 
