JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  29,  1898. 
256 
throughout  the  neighbourhood.  Bee-keepers  cannot  be  too  careful  in 
exposing  cappings  and  comb  in  the  open  air,  as  by  this  means  disease 
is  often  spread. 
Storing  Frames. 
We  are  the  happy  (?)  possessors  of  a  great  number  of  combs  which 
arc  in  frames,  and  weigh  upwards  of  10  lbs.  each — a  solid  slab  of 
honey  of  the  darkest  hue.  These,  as  was  stated  in  previous  notes, 
are  loft  on  the  hives  in  the  same  position  they  occupied  during  the 
summer  months.  Others,  however,  will  have  numerous  frames  filled 
with  good  clean  combs,  which  will  be  useful  another  season  for 
extracting  and  other  purposes.  It  is,  however,  necessary  to  find  a 
suitable  place  for  them  until  they  are  requirod  again.  It  will  make 
all  the  difference  in  the  treatment  they  receive  whether  the  bees  will 
take  readily  to  them,  or  if  they  are  only  fit  to  be  melted  down  for  the 
wax  they  contain. 
If  the  wax  moths  arc  allowed  to  gain  access  to  them  they  will 
deteriorate  at  a  rapid  rate  and  be  of  little  use  for  wax  extraction. 
We  once  experimented  with  thirty  combs  taken  from  standard  frames, 
and  which  had  been  exposed  for  several  months,  so  that  the  wax  moth 
had  played  great  havoc  with  them.  The  nett  result  was  1  lb.  of  badly 
coloured  wax ;  since  then  we  have  always  committed  any  badly 
affected  combs  to  the  (lames. 
An  inexpensive  way  of  storing  comb  is  to  obtain  a  large  box  and 
line  it,  with  coarse  calico  or  similar  material,  and  well  sprinkle  it  with 
carbolic  acid.  Fill  the  box  with  combs  in  the  same  position  they 
occupied  in  the  hive,  as  we  find  they  come  out  better  in  the  spring 
when  packed  away  in  this  manner  than  when  placed  flat.  Those  who 
object  to  the  smell  of  carbolic  may  use  a  few  lumps  of  naphthaline  in 
the  box,  which  may  be  lined  with  paper,  and  will  have  the  effect  of 
keeping  the  wax  moth  away.  The  boxes  should  be  stored  in  a  dry 
place. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
*W#A11  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  s.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  not  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers’ 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  ta 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  norn  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Gorrespondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only-  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
he  inserted. 
Osmunda  regalis  and  Osmunda  gracilis  (0.  F.). — You  are  quite 
right,  and  we  hope  “Todmorden”  will  see  this  reply.  O.  regalis  is  a 
British  Fern  ;  O.  gracilis,  about  which  he  inquired,  is  not,  but^a  native 
of  North  America.  The  printing  of  “  regalis  ”  in  our  reply  on  page  236 
last  week,  was  a  pure  accident,  and  not  discovered  until  too  late  for 
rectification. 
Chrysanthemum  Leaves  Rusted  (17.  II.  M.,  Wilts').— Yes,  the  leaves 
are  infested  with  rust  fungus  (Uredo  chrysanthemi),  and,  in  places  on 
both  surfaces  of  the  leaves.  Wo  remember  the  plants  you  sent  in  the 
spring,  and  have  two  of  them  growing,  neither  being  affected  with  the 
rust.  This  may  interest  you,  as  they  have  been  grown  whore  spores  of 
the  fungus  have  floated  “fast  and  furious.”  You  cannot  do  better  than 
follow  the  advice  given  to  “  Anxious”  in  the  issue  for  September  15th, 
page  210.  I  f  you  have  any  difficulty  in  procuring  the  sulphide  of  potassium 
use  bisulphide  of  calcium,  for  which  instructions  to  prepare  are  given  in 
reply  to  “  A.  G.”  last  week,  page  230.  In  order  to  wet  the  pustules,  it 
may  be  necessary  to  employ  a  sponge  or  brush,  but  not  injuring  the 
if  ••V  68, 
Peach  Tree  for  a  Cool  House  with  South-East  Aspect  (2’.). — The 
Beach  tree  least  liable  to  cast  the  bud  is,  according  to  our  experience, 
Royal  George,  then  Stirling  Castle,  and  after  it  Crimson  Galande.  The 
first  named  is  one  of  the  best  Peaches  in  cultivation,  and  we  have  found 
it  a  certain  cropper  under  glass. 
Geranium  tuberosum  (Somerset). — This  herbaceous  perennial  is  a 
native  of  South  Europe,  and  was  introduced  into  this  country  in  1590. 
It  grows  about  9  inches  in  height  ;  has  many-parted  leaves,  lobes 
linear,  pinnatrifid,  serrated  ;  and  produces  large,  numerous,  elegant, 
purple  flowers,  petals  bifid,  in  May.  We  have  had  it  very  fine  on  a 
south  border  in  the  midland  counties,  soil  a  generous  loam  over  gravel. 
It  should  be  given  a  sheltered  situation  in  the  open  border. 
Swellings  on  Chrysanthemum  Shoots  (Anxious). — The  leaves  are 
quite  healthy,  and  we  found  nothing  of  an  injurious  character  in  the 
buds,  though  they  are  not  swelling,  but  mite6  are  extremely  difficult  to 
find  in  the  early  stages,  the  eggs  being  very  minute.  They  are  also 
overgrown  and  embedded  in  the  tissue  by  the  growth  on  the  part  of  the 
plant  in  the  particular  invaded  place,  which  causes  the  swelling,  and 
ultimately  gall,  the  mites  eating  away  the  inner  surface,  on  which  there 
is  usually  a  luxuriant  pasturage  of  hairs.  The  excrescences  on  the  shoots 
appear  of  this  character,  but  in  them  we  failed  to  detect  any  animal 
organism,  and  on  the  brown  only  the  mycelial  hyphas  of  some  fungus. 
Possibly  there  has  been,  or  is,  eelworm  trouble  at  the  roots,  but  this  would 
hardly  account  for  the  swellings,  which  have  an  active  cause  at  the  point 
of  formation,  and  are  commonly  induced  by  animal  or  vegetable  organisms, 
but  these,  if  any,  we  failed  to  discover  during  repeated  examination. 
Dwarf  Plants  for  Narrow  Beds  (Somerset). — The  dwarf  forms  oF 
Begonia  semperflorens,  such  as  B.  s.  atropurpurea,  also  known  as  Crimson 
Gem  (brilliant  orange  carmine),  would  bo  attractive,  both  by  foliage  and 
flowers.  A  bed  is  now  in  lull  beauty  at  Chiswick,  the  plants  raised  from 
seed  early  in  spring  and  duly  prepared  for  planting.  Verbena  melindris 
splendens  (brilliant  scarlet)  can  be  kept  very  dwarf,  raised  from  cuttings  ; 
and  naturally  so  are  the  varieties  of  V.  hybrula  compacts,  which  have 
flowers  in  several  colours,  and  may  be  raised  from  seed.  Of  bedding 
Pelargoniums,  of  the  colours  desired,  Cannell’s  Dwarf  (orange-scarlet), 
and  Harry  Ilieover  (orange-scarlet),  are  of  low  close  growth  in  firm 
and  not  rich  soil.  Gazania  splendens  and  its  variegated  form  are  close 
low-growing  plants,  but  require  poor  soil  for  producing  their  large 
orange-coloured  flowers  freely.  T'est  them  in  a  reserve  garden  next 
year  ;  also  Sutton’s  dwarf  fibrous  Begonias.  If  you  are  sure  Dianthuses 
would  do,  why  not  have  them  in  the  beds  instead  of  elsewhere  ? 
Treatment  of  Belladonna  and  Guernsey  Lilies  (A.  S.) — You  do  not 
say  whether  the  bulbs  are  for  potting  or  planting  outdoors.  If  the  latter, 
they  should  be  given  a  position  in  front  of  a  south  or  south-west  wall, 
affording  acompostof  good  fibrous  loam, leaf  mould,  and  sand  in  equal  parts. 
Place  the  bulbs  6  to  8  inches  deep,  that  distance  apart,  and  surround 
with  sand,  after  which  they  may  be  covered  firmly  with  the  compost  ; 
they  should  not  be  again  disturbed  for  years.  If  the  surface  where  they 
arc  is  planted  with  Sedum  acre  it  will  materially  add  to  the  appearance 
when  the  plants  are  in  bloom.  In  their  growing  season  and  in  dry 
weather  an  occasional  soaking  of  liquid  manure  will  be  highly  beneficial. 
This  treatment  applies  to  the  Belladonna  Lilies,  and  will  answer  for  the 
Guernsey,  only  plant  about  2  inches  less  deeply  and  not  more  than  one- 
third  the  distance  apart.  If  in  pots  place  about  five  bulbs  of  Guernsey 
Lilies  and  one  of  Belladonna  respectively  in  a  5-inch  pot,  well  drained 
and  in  the  compost  before  named,  inserting  them  about  half  their  depth 
in  the  soil  and  pressing  firmly  about  them.  Stand  on  a  shelf  in  a  house 
from  which  frost  is  excluded,  otherwise  the  cooler  the  better,  and  supply 
water  only  to  keep  the  soil  moist.  If  with  flower  buds,  they  will  flower, 
and  after  that  push  growth.  When  the  leaves  give  indications  of  dying 
down,  gradually  withhold  water,  and  cease  entirely,  still  keeping  the  pots 
well  up  to  the  light,  and  the  soil  dry  until  signs  of  growth  are  again 
apparent.  The  bulbs  do  not  require  repotting  very  frequently,  but  an 
annual  top-dressing  of  new  soil  is  of  material  advantage  when  the  flowering 
season  begins. 
“  Miniature  ”  Ants  in  Houses  (Pest). — The  minute  ants  appear  to  be  ti  e 
species  very  common  in  some  plant  and  fruit  houses,  and  live,  as  you  say, 
in  colonies,  wherever  they  can  find  a  place.  We  have  been  familiar  with 
them  for  half  a  century  as  Formica  nigra.  They  do  not  “spread  scale,” 
but  they  are  attracted  by  the  secretion  of  the  insect  and  feed  upon  it. 
No  doubt  the  dry  hot  summer  has  suited  them  well,  and  the  soil,  mnde 
comfortable  for  them,  accounts  for  their  infestation.  They  possess  an  oily 
secretion,  and  thus  resist  water  to  a  certain  extent,  keeping  it  from  their 
colonies  in  the  soil.  Under  such  circumstances  we  do  not  consider  it 
would  be  advisable  to  introduce  the  brown  ant  (Formica  fusca),  for  the 
most  they  are  likely  to  do  is  to  make  “  slaves  ”  of  the  smaller  species,  and 
thus  favour  their  own  increase.  Wo  should  first  of  all  get  rid  of  the 
scale  by  the  use  of  insecticides,  such  as  Fir-tree  oil  or  Lemon  oil,  carefully 
following  the  instructions,  and  if  you  syringe  the  houses  in  a  safe  solution 
to  the  plants,  you  will  find  it  kills  the  ants  reached.  The  first  named  can 
be  used  at  the  roots  of  the  plants,  for  it  is  rapidly  decomposable  in  the 
soil,  and  will  not  injure  the  plants,  only  attend  to  the  instructions.  Or, 
for  the  soil,  use  Little’s  soluble  phenyle,  or  Jeye’s  fluid,  at  a  strength  of 
1  fluid  ounce  to  3  gallons  of  water,  or  if  very  delicate  rooted  plants, 
dilute  to  6  gallons.  We  have  also  found  hot  water  useful,  applying  at  a 
temperatureof  115° — some  plants  willbearthe  water  much  hotter — stopping 
the  hole  in  the  pot  with  clay  so  as  to  flood  the  soil  for  a  short  time.  The 
insecticides  named,  and  others  advertised,  may  be  ejected  into  the  colonies 
in  the  woodwork  and  walls,  by  means  of  the  jet  of  a  syringe,  and  these 
simple  means  will  mostly  prove  effective. 
