October  6,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
269 
National  Chrysanthemum  Society. 
The  Executive  Committee  of  the  National  Chrysanthemum 
Society,  in  view  of  the  devastation  being  wrought  among  Chrysan¬ 
themum  plants  by  the  action  of  the  Chrysanthemum  rust,  has 
arranged  to  hold  a  Conference  in  St.  Stephen’s  Hall,  Royal  Aquarium, 
on  the  evening  of  Tuesday,  October  11th  next,  at  six  o’clock,  to  which 
the  members  of  the  Society  and  all  interested  in  the  matter  are 
invited.  A  paper  will  be  read  by  Mr.  P.  Waterer,  Vice-Chairman  of 
the  Committee,  on  “  The  Practical  Aspects  of  the  Chrysanthemum 
Rust and  by  Mr.  G.  Massee,  Royal  Gardens,  Ivew,  on  “  The  Scien¬ 
tific  Aspect  of  the  Chrysanthemum  Rust,”  followed  by  discussion. 
Early  Flowering  Chrysanthemums. 
The  generally  small  but  profuse  blooming  early  flowering  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  are  a  welcome  addition  and  preface  to  the  Chrysanthemum 
season  proper.  Plants  grown  and  flowered  in  the  open  ground  give, 
during  favourable  seasons,  a  good  return  of  attractive  and  brilliant 
coloured  blooms.  Many  of  the  varieties  commence  very  early  to 
flower,  but  the  majority  do  so  in  September  and  October.  Large 
sprays  of  bloom  can  be  obtained  from  those  varieties  which  grow  and 
branch  freely,  and  there  are  a  fair  proportion  which  do  so  satisfac¬ 
torily.  As  a  rule  the  outdoor  plants  require  little  disbudding.  Some 
of  the  earliest  Japanese  varieties  may  demand  attention,  especially  if 
fine  blooms  are  required  ;  but  the  Pompons  having  smaller  flowers,  will 
usually  develop  large  numbers  of  perfectly  formed  blooms. 
The  early  flowering  Chrysanthemums  may  also  be  successfully 
grown  in  pots  throughout  the  season  from  cuttings  propagated  in 
spring,  and  with  ordinary  but  regular  cultural  attention  neat,  bushy, 
floriferous  specimens  will  result.  If  grown  in  pots  not  larger  than  7  or 
8  inches  in  diameter  the  plants  become  available  for  introducing  into 
the  conservatory  or  greenhouse,  where  they  can  be  utilised  for  various 
decorative  effects  or  for  general  cutting.  In  pots  the  chief  requirement 
is  strict  attention  to  watering  at  all  times,  with  occasional  liberal 
supplies  of  liquid  manure  when  the  buds  commence  to  form. 
Another  method  of  growing  many  of  the  compact  habited  varieties 
is  to  cultivate  them  in  He  open  border  all  the  summer,  allowing  the 
plants  ample  room.  Do  not  plant  them  by  any  means  within  the 
impoverishing  area  of  trees  and  shrubs,  as  under  such  conditions  they 
cannot  be  expected  to  succeed.  An  open  position  is  far  more  important 
than  soil,  as  they  usually  succeed  in  ground  which  will  grow  vegetables 
without  large  supplies  of  manure.  They  may,  therefore,  have  a  fertile 
but  not  a  rich  rooting  medium.  Place  out  small  and  healthy  plants  in 
May  3  feet  apart,  keep  the  ground  clear  of  weeds,  and  afford  water 
in  dry  weather,  but  no  more  than  is  really  necessary.  Unlimited 
growth  is  not  required,  but  a  sturdy,  bushy  habit,  the  foundation  of 
which  may  be  laid  by  judiciously  pinching  the  strongest  growths  early 
in  the  season,  and  equalising  later  shoots  which  grow  beyond  bounds 
in  the  course  of  the  season.  Support  can  be  given  to  those  requiring 
it  by  a  few  sticks  and  ties.  This  will  be  necessary  in  windy  positions. 
In  autumn  lift  the  clumps  and  pot,  choosing  those  varieties  which 
appear  to  be  the  most  suitable  by  reason  of  their  dwarf,  bushy  habit, 
and  their  liberal  display  of  buds.  Those  which  are  most  advanced 
and  ready  to  open  should  be  lifted  first.  Any  past  their  best  condition 
must  remain  in  the  ground,  likewise  all  that  are  not  advanced  in  bud. 
Previously  to  lifting  moisten  the  roots  well  with  water,  and  it  is  also 
advisable  to  check  the  root  action  by  running  a  spade  round  the  plants 
about  a  week  before  lifting.  In  doing  this  the  ball  of  roots  should  be 
left  approximately  to  the  size  of  pot  intended.  The  pots  ought  to  be 
as  small  as  possible  consistent  with  size  of  plant.  Very  little  drainage 
will  suffice  to  take  away  superfluous  water.  Lift  the  plan's  on  a  dull 
day.  The  method  is  to  first  lift  out  the  plant  with  a  large  ball  of  roots 
and  soil,  then  roughly  trim  with  a  sharp  spade  to  the  size  required, 
finishing  with  a  knife  which  makes  smoother  and  better  cuts. 
Introduce  the  plants  in  the  pots,  and  work  them  down  in  position 
by  gently  jarring  the  lower  edge  of  the  pot  on  firm  wood  or  the  ground. 
If  carefully  carried  out  fresh  additions  of  soil  to  fill  up  interstices  will 
scarcely  be  needed,  but  a  little  may  be  sprinkled  on  the  surface. 
Stand  the  plants  in  the  shade  at  once  and  water  the  roots  freely,  thus 
preventing  excessive  flagging.  Syringe  the  plants  frequently  until 
well  established,  and  maintain  adequate  root  moisture.  On  the  plants 
regaining  an  erect  and  healthy  appearance  supply  a  little  weak  liquid 
manure  or  soot  water,  and  afford  a  light  and  sunny  pooition  prepara¬ 
tory  to  bringing  them  under  glass,  assigning  them  a  cool  airy  house, 
where  the  flowers  will  readily  open. 
Commercial  growers  and  others  having  suitable  convenience  under 
glass  without  interfering  with  permanent  occupants  may  lift  plants 
and  place  them  in  large  boxes  or  closely  together  on  a  border,  surround¬ 
ing  the  roots  with  soil.  Low  span  or  lean-to  houses  only  are  suitable, 
plenty  of  light  being  needed.  Keep  the  roots  moist.  Abundance  of 
flowers  may  be  cut  from  the  free-flowering  varieties. 
Mad.  C.  Desgranges  and  its  yellow  sport  G.  Wermig  are  excellent 
varieties  for  pots  and  flowering  in  the  open  during  late  September  and 
early  October.  These  varieties  are  not  so  satisfactory  when  lifted  and 
potted,  though  in  some  cases  they  do  well. 
Market  White  and  Mychett  White  are  good  pure  white  varieties, 
well  adapted  for  supplying  cut  flowers  from  early  September  to 
October,  either  planted  out  or  in  pots.  The  latter  is  the  earlier, 
dwarf,  and  free  flowering,  reaching  a  height  of  18  inches.  Market 
White  succeeds  this  by  blooming  at  the  end  of  September  and  later, 
but  is  much  taller,  yet  comparatively  dwarf  to  some — 24  feet  is  its 
normal  height.  Grow  these  varieties  in  various  ways,  the  best, 
however,  will  be  found  to  be  in  pots  and  the  open. 
Gustave  Grunerwald  is  a  light  pink  variety,  18  inches  high,  but 
there  is  a  superior  sport  from  it  named  Louis  Lemaire,  18  inches  high, 
of  a  rosy  bronze  colour.  It  is  showy,  blooms  in  September,  and  is 
good  for  garden  decoration,  but  may  be  grown  in  pots. 
Ambroise  Thomas,  a  sturdy  grower  of  3  feet,  is  a  profuse  blooming 
early  variety,  commencing  in  September.  The  colour  is  bronzy  red” 
flowers  of  Japanese  form.  Ivy  Stark,  3|  feet,  is  of  bushy  habit,  and 
commences  to  bloom  in  September,  having  orange  yellow  flowers,  and 
is  excellent  for  borders. 
Notaire  Groz  is  a  variety  with  the  Japanese  form  of  bloom.  It 
has  rather  a  tall  habit,  being  4  feet  in  height,  but  is  bushy,  and  at 
its  best  in  October. 
Madame  Marie  Masse  is  one  of  the  best  in  its  colour,  lilac  mauve. 
It  grows  2  feet  high,  and  blooms  well  in  September  in  most  seasons, 
though  it  frequently  commences  in  August  and  extends  to  October. 
Good  for  pots,  open  ground,  and  lifting. 
May  Manser  is  one  of  the  newly  introduced  varieties  belonging  to 
the  reflexed  section.  It  has  white  flowers  with  yellow  centre.  It 
may  prove  to  be  an  acquisition  if  its  habit  is  good  and  it  has  free- 
flowering  qualities.  It  blooms  in  September,  grows  4  feet,  and  is  a 
Japanese  variety. 
Good  varieties  for  any  method  of  culture  are  Flora  and  Fiberta, 
yellow ;  Comtesse  Foucher  de  Cariel,  orange  bronze  ;  Mrs.  Cullingford, 
white;  Piercy’s  Seedling,  orange  yellow ;  Pride  of  the  Market,  deep 
crimson ;  Queen  of  the  Earlies,  white ;  and  Arthur  Crepey,  primrose. 
The  semi-early  varieties  are  worthy  of  a  few  remarks,  which  I  will 
endeavour  to  give  in  a  future  tssue. — E.  D.  S. 
BULBS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 
( Continued  from  page  250.) 
Good  Varieties  for  Early  Forcing. 
Although  the  main  supplies  of  bulbs  are  not  required  in  flower 
till  the  bulk  of  Chrysanthemums  are  over,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  a  regular  succession  for  supplying  choice  flowers  from  the 
middle  of  November  onwards.  White  Roman  Hyacinths  have  long 
been  considered  some  of  the  best  bulbs  to  grow  for  early  forcing  ; 
they  are  still  as  popular  as  ever,  and  are,  perhaps,  forced  in  larger 
numbers  than  any  other  bulbous  plant.  This  popularity  is  doubtless 
largely  accounted  for  by  reason  of  the  adaptability  of  the  flowers  for 
all  kinds  of  “  making  up ;  ”  in  forming  wreaths,  bouquets,  button¬ 
holes,  as  well  as  in  dressing  small  vases,  few  flowers  are  so 
useful  as  good  spikes  of  Roman  Hyacinths.  Their  good  points,  how¬ 
ever,  do  not  end  here,  for  they  are  quite  as  useful  for  supplying 
attractive  potfuls  of  flowers  as  for  use  in  a  cut  state.  When  good 
bulbs  are  obtained,  and  cultural  details  well  carried  out,  no  plant — 
whether  bulbous  or  otherwise — can  be  forced  with  greater  certainty. 
Bearing  these  things  in  mind  it  is  well  for  those  who  force  large 
quantities  of  bulbs  to  make  white  “  Romans  ”  their  sheet  anchor. 
The  blue  and  rose-coloured  forms  did  not  meet  with  much  favour 
when  first  introduced,  as  the  flowers  failed  to  open  well  when 
subjected  to  sharp  forcing.  This  was  probably  caused  by  too  rapid 
propagation,  a  fault  which  many  new  things  exhibit  the  first  season. 
A  better  sample  of  bulbs  can,  however,  now  be  obtained,  and  I  look 
forward  to  seeing  these  varieties  of  Roman  Hyacinths  become 
popular  in  the  near  future,  as  they  supply  flowers  of  colour  not 
plentiful  during  November  and  December. 
The  Paper  White  Narcissus,  and  its  improved  form  grandiflorus, 
are  not  forced  so  extensively  as  formerly,  because  our  markets  are 
flooded  during  autumn  and  early  winter  with  cut  blooms  from  the 
Continent,  and  when  they  are  sold  so  cheaply  in  the  streets  they 
become  too  common  to  pay  for  forcing  extensively,  although  the 
flowers  forced  in  this  country  have  a  more  delicious  scent,  and  on  that 
account  should  be  included  among  the  list  of  bulbs  forced  in  all 
private  gardens.  The  white  double  Roman  Narcissus  is  one  of  the 
best  of  forcers,  and  may  be  had  in  flower  very  early  ;  for  these  reasons 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  pot  a  few  early  bulbs,  in  fact  all  that  are  obtained 
should  be  forced,  as  by  the  time  the  showier  varieties  are  in  flower  the 
taste  for  double  Romans  is  on  the  wane. 
Turning  to  Tulips  it  is  satisfactory  to  find  that  we  may  now  obtain 
many  good  varieties  which  will  bear  forcing  well,  and  amply  reward 
the  cultivator  for  the  little  labour  bestowed  upon  them,  and  those 
who  require  a  really  showy  display  of  early  bulbs  for  a  moderate 
outlay  should  invest  principally  in  Tulips.  Undoubtedly  the  best 
scarlet  Tulip  for  early  forcing  is  Due  Van  Thol  scarlet.  The  colour 
