310 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
October  20,  1898. 
Injured  Chrysanthemum  Leaves  (0.  B.  A.). — Most  of  the  injury  has 
been  done  by  the  larvae  of  a  minute  beetle  eating  the  leaves  when  in  the 
early  stage  of  formation,  the  evil  showing  itself  as  the  foliage  becomes 
developed.  Dusting  the  tips  of  the  shoots  with  tobacco  powder  occa¬ 
sionally  in  July,  August,  and  September  is  a  good  method  of  prevention. 
There  is  little  rust  on  the  leaves.  The  best  known  preventives  are  those 
mentioned  in  our  last  issue. 
Forcing  Lilao  (Novice). — White  Lilac  is  obtained  early  in  the  year 
by  placing  well-budded  shrubs  or  bushes  dug  from  the  ground  in  a  warm 
dark  place,  such  as  a  well-heated  shed  or  Mushroom  house.  Shrubs  of 
the  common  pink  Lilac  are  usually  the  most  plentiful,  and  the  flowers 
come  white  when  they  expand  in  darkness.  A  temperature  between 
60°  and  80°  is  suitable  ;  the  higher  it  is  the  sooner  the  flowers  appear, 
and  we  have  known  them  quickly  obtained  in  a  temperature  of  90°, 
The  shrubs  must  be  syringed  occasionally  till  the  growth  starts,  and  the 
roots  be  kept  very  moist.  In  addition  to  the  heat  from  hot-water  pipes, 
some  persons  have  heaps  of  sweet  fermenting  materials,  consisting  of 
leaves  mainly  in  the  Lilac  shed,  turning  them  occasionally,  for  the 
diffusion  of  heat  and  moisture,  but  an  excess  of  moisture  must  be 
averted  or  the  flowers  will  suffer.  If  you  have  no  shrubs  that  you 
can  dig  up  you  must  apply  to  nurseries  for  them.  White  Lilac  can  be 
forced  in  glass  structures,  when  small  shrubs  of  the  white  variety  are 
obtained  and  potted.  The  best  of  these  are  grown  in  France,'  and 
imported  and  sold  by  English  nurserymen. 
Bulbs  and  Seeds  (Amateur). — We  are  unable  to  say  whence  and 
from  whom  the  bulbs  were  obtained,  the  flowers  of  which  you  admired 
in  Ivew  Gardens.  You  could  no  doubt  obtain  authentic  information  by 
writing  a  letter  of  inquiry  to  the  Director,  enclosing  a  stamped  directed 
envelope  for  reply.  Either  the  corms  of  Gladioli  you  describe  were 
inferior,  or  planted  at  the  wrong  time.  It  is  a  mistake  to  search  for 
the  cheapest  possible  vendors  of  bulbs  and  seeds  at  home  and  abroad, 
for  below  certain  figures  cheapness  means  inferiority.  No  comment  of 
ours  is  needed  on  the  bulbs  and  seeds  that  failed  so  utterly,  because 
whatever  we  might  say,  we  should  think  you  would  let  the  vendors 
severely  alone  in  the  future.  As  good  Gladioli  are  grown  in  England 
as  anywhere  in  the  world,  as  are  most  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs.  It  is 
impossible  for  us  to  recommend  any  particular  dealer,  and  thus  unjustly 
imply  that  all  others  are  relatively  inferior.  Vendors  of  the  highest 
repute  advertise  in  the  Journal  of  Horticulture ,  and  than  the  bulbs  and 
seeds  they  sell  no  better  are  obtainable,  and  if  planted  and  sown  at  the 
proper  time,  in  suitable  soil,  and  the  plants  given  reasonably  good  atten¬ 
tion,  not  grievously  disappointing,  but  satisfactory  results  follow.  This 
is  our  experience,  and  the  experience  of  thousands  of  amateurs  in 
various  parts  of  the  kingdom.  It  may  be  added  that  some  varieties  of 
Gladiolus  are  prone  to  be  affected  by  disease,  and  you  should  ask  for 
those  which  are  constitutionally  strong.  Spring  is  the  time  for  planting 
them,  but  the  sooner  spring  flowering  bulbs  of  different  kinds  are  planted 
or  potted  after  the  present  time  the  better. 
Belladonna  Lilies  in  Pots  (Belladonna). — The  proper  time  to  pot  this 
species  (Amaryllis  Belladonna)  is  in  June  or  July,  when  the  bulbs  com¬ 
mence  root  action  before  the  flower  stems  are  sent  up.  You  appear  to 
have  given  them  the  treatment  usually  accorded  to  Hippeastrums,  which 
have  a  growing  season  from  February  to  September,  while  Belladonna 
Lilies  commence  growing  in  the  early  autumn  after  flowering  is  over  and 
continue  in  growth  until  the  spring,  when  the  foliage  dies  down.  As  we 
have  grown  this  splendid  species  to  the  admiration  of  others,  the  following 
outlines  of  procedure  may  not  be  unacceptable.  The  bulbs  usually  come 
to  hand  when  at  rest,  generally  early  in  September,  then  having  flower 
buds.  This  is  too  late  by  a  month  or  six  weeks  to  do  the  plants  justice, 
for  they  commence  root  action,  as  before  stated,  before  the  flower  stems 
are  sent  up.  The  bulbs  are  placed  singly  in  pots  twice  that  of  their 
diameter  or  a  trifle  more,  in  a  compost  of  good  fibrous,  rather  heavy  or 
yellow  loam,  with  one-fourth  of  leaf  mould  or  well  decayed  manure,  a 
sixth  of  sand,  and  a  sprinkling  of  crushed  bones  and  charcoal.  Good 
drainage  is  very  important.  The  soil  is  made  firm  under  and  around  the 
bulbs,  and  this  left  at  least  halt  above  the  level  of  the  soil.  This  being 
moderately  moist  no  water  is  given,  but  the  pots  are  stood  on  shelves  in  a 
greenhouse — one  from  which  frost  only  is  excluded — for  the  plants  cannot 
have  too  much  light.  The  plants  may  flower,  but  most  of  ours  do  not 
develop  the  scapes  present  when  the  bulbs  are  potted,  either  becoming 
blind  or  rotting.  Growths  will  soon  appear,  then  supply  water — mode¬ 
rately  at  first,  yet  keeping  the  soil  moist  for  the  development  of  the 
flower  scape  and  flowers,  it  any,  and  to  sustain  the  growth.  Water  as 
required  during  the  winter  months,  and  when  the  foliage  gives  indi¬ 
cations  of  dying  down  gradually  withhold  or  lessen  the  supplies, 
and  keep  quite  dry  after  the  leaves  lie  down.  About  August  the  plants 
will  begin  growing  again,  or  give  indications  of  so  doing,  when  remove  a 
little  of  the  surface  soil  and  supply  fresh.  As  growth  pushes,  for  very 
few  bulbs  flower  in  the  season  after  first  potting,  gradually  supply  water, 
and  when  in  free  growth  afford  it  liberally,  with  occasional  applications 
of  liquid  manure,  but  taking  care  not  to  make  the  soil  sodden,  proceeding 
exactly  as  in  the  previous  season.  The  chief  points  are  to  afford  plenty 
of  light  and  air  on  all  favourable  occasions,  so  as  to  secure  a  sturdy 
growth  and  its  thorough  maturation.  In  the  late  summer,  or  early  in 
autumn,  flowers  may  be  expected  on  the  well-developed  bulbs.  The  bulbs 
are  not  potted  oftener  than  once  in  three  years,  and  then  in  June  or  July, 
always  before  either  flower-buds  or  leaves  appear.  Offsets  should  be 
removed,  potted  singly — but  well-grown  bulbs  do  not  produce  many 
<jffset9. .  Six-inch  pots  suffice  for  the  largest  bulbs,  5-inch  pots  answering 
»or  ordinary  sized  samples.  However,  pots  twice  the  diameter  or  rather 
-more  of  the  bulbs  is  a  safe  rule  to  follow. 
Crapes  Diseased  (Surrey)1 — The  Lady  Downe’s  Grapes  are  affected 
by  a  mould,  or  rather  several  species  of  saphrophytic  fungi,  which  can 
hardly  be  regarded  as  the  cause  of  the  disease.  This  appears  to  be 
damp,  and  the  mouldiness  a  consequence  of  it.  Both  Alicante  and  Gros 
Maroo  are  tougher  skinned  than  Lady  Downe’s,  and  this  may  account  for 
their  not  being  affected  by  the  damp,  which  has  certainly  injured  the 
skin  of  the  berries  of  the  latter  variety,  and  the  moulds  have  taken  up 
their  abode  in  the  decayed  matter.  We  can  only  suggest  more  liberal 
ventilation  in  all  stages  of  growth,  but  especially  during  the  swelling  and 
ripening  periods  with  a  little  air  constantly,  particularly  at  night  when 
the  pipes  are  “  warmed.”  The  moisture  of  the  house  condensed  on  the 
berries  has,  we  suspect,  been  the  cause  of  the  mischief.  Their  skins  are 
thus  injured,  and  the  fungus  germs  able  to  germinate  and  take  possession 
of  the  tissues  of  the  Grapes,  like  spawn  running  through  a  Mushroom  bed. 
Boards  for  Exhibiting  Chrysanthemums  (B.  M.). — One  of  the  regu¬ 
lations  of  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  says,  “  Exhibitors  are 
required  to  have  their  stands  made  in  accordance  with  the  Metropolitan 
plan — viz.,  stands  for  twelve  incurved  blooms  to  be  24  inches  long  and 
18  inches  wide,  with  holes  6  inches  apart  from  centre  to  centre,  to  stand 
6  inches  high  at  back,  and  3  inches  in  front.  Two  *  twelve-boards  ’  may 
be  used  for  twenty-four  blooms,  three  for  thirty-six  blooms,  and  so  on. 
The  six  stands  to  be  18  inches  long  by  12.  Stands  for  twelve  Japanese 
blooms  to  be  28  inches  long  and  21  inches  wide,  the  holes  7  inches  apart 
from  centre  to  centre.  Stands  for  six  blooms,  14  inches  long  and  21  inches 
wide.  The  height  at  the  back  to  be  7  inches  and  4  inches  in  front.  All 
stands  to  be  painted  green,  and  to  have  the  supports  secure.”  This  will 
apply  of  course  to  all  provincial  societies  that  are  affiliated  with,  and  accept 
the  rules  of  the  “National.”  An  illustration  of  a  box  with  directions  for 
making  appeared  in  “Molyneux  s  Chrysanthemums,”  price  Is.  2d.  post 
free  from  the  publisher,  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street,  London. 
Bauera  rubioides  (M.  O.  /?.). — This  plant  ought  to  be  more  exten¬ 
sively  grown,  for  though  it  has  now  been  in  cultivation  in  a  few 
gardens  for  nearly  100  years  it  is  very  rarely  seen,  especially  in 
nurserymen’s  collections.  Yet  the  plant  is  of  easy  culture,  floriferous 
in  the  extreme,  the  flowers  being  of  a  distinct  form  and  pleasing 
deep  rosy  colour,  the  latter  characteristic  alone  being  sufficient  to 
recommend  it  strongly.  The  foliage  too  is  effective,  the  narrow  dark 
green  leaves  being  arranged  in  whorls  round  the  slender  branches.  There 
is  some  difference  between  authorities  respecting  the  introduction  of 
the  plant.  Andrews  states  that  it  was  “  first  raised  at  the  seat  of  the 
Marchioness  of  Rockingham,  Hillingdon,  Middlesex,  in  the  year  1793.” 
Dr.  Sims,  however,  states  that  it  was  first  raised  by  Messrs.  Gnmwood 
and  Wyke  of  Kensington.  It  was  in  the  Ivew  collection  early  in  this 
century,  and  is  mentioned  in  Aiton’s  “Hortus  Ivewensis”  as  being 
originally  from  New  Holland,  introduced  to  this  country  by  the 
Marchioness  of  Rockingham,  thus  corroborating  or  accepting  Andrews’ 
account.  The  cultural  requirements  of  this  plant  are  few.  A  cool 
house  such  as  a  conservatory  or  greenhouse,  or  indeed  a  sheltered  posi¬ 
tion  out  of 'doors  in  the  southern  counties,  suit  it  well.  Peat,  a  little 
turfy  loam,  and  a  small  quantity  of  leaf  soil  form  a  good  compost  for  it, 
draining  the  pots  carefully  and  supplying  water  judiciously,  as  extremes 
are  very  injurious  to  it.  It  can  be  readily  increased  by  cuttings. 
Names  of  Fruits.  —  Notice.  —  We  have  pleasure  in  naming  good 
typical  fruits  (when  the  names  are  discoverable)  for  the  convenience  of 
regular  subscribers,  who  are  the  growers  of  such  fruit,  and  not  col¬ 
lectors  of  specimens  from  non-subscribers.  This  latter  procedure  is 
wholly  irregular,  and  we  trust  that  none  of  our  readers  will  allow 
themselves  to  he  made  the  mediums  in  infringing  our  rules.  Special 
attention  is  directed  to  the  following  decision,  the  object  of  which  is 
to  discourage  the  growth  of  inferior  and  promote  the  culture  of  superior 
varieties.  In  consequence  of  the  large  number  of  worthless  Apples  and  Pears 
sent  to  this  office  to  be  named,  it  has  been  decided  to  name  only  specimens  and 
varieties  of  approved  merit,  and  to  reject  the  inferior,  which  are  not  worth 
sending  or  growing.  The  names  and  addresses  of  senders  of  fruits  or 
flowers  to  be  named  must  in  all  cases  be  enclosed  with  the  specimens, 
whether  letters  referring  to  the  fruit  are  sent  by  post  or  not.  The 
names  are  not  necessarily  required  for  publication,  initials  sufficing  for 
that.  Only  six  specimens  can  be  named  at  once,  and  any  beyond  that 
number  cannot  be  preserved.  They  should  be  sent  on  the  first  indication  of 
change  towards  ripening.  Dessert  Pears  cannot  be  named  in  a  hard  green  state. 
(  W.  H.  B.).— The  box  was  misdirected,  and  on  arrival  two  fruits  were 
quite  rotten.  In  consequence  of  the  moisture  the  distinguishing  letters 
on  the  other  were  obliterated  ;  but  if  visible,  some  of  the  fruits  were  so 
inferior  that  it  is  doubtful  if  anyone  could  name  them.  (Cedo  Nulli). — 
1,  Belmont  ;  2,  a  deformed  and  fungus-infested  fruit,  possibly  Marechal 
de  Cour ;  3,  Mere  de  Manage  ;  5,  Grange’s  Pearmain  ;  4  and  6,  we 
suspect  these  be  local  varieties,  and  they  are  worthless.  (M.  B.). — 
1,  Aromatic  Russet  ;  2,  Winter  Greening  ;  3,  Lord  Derby  ;  4,  Beauty  of 
Kent ;  5,  Hambledon  Deux  Ans  ;  Pear  Catillac.  (A.  F.  D.). — 1,  Cellini ; 
2,  Lord  Suffield  ;  3,  Baldwin  ;  4,  Scotch  Virgin  ;  5,  deformed,  unknown  ; 
6,  Winter  Greening.  (C.  N.).  -  1,  Court  Pendft  Plat;  2,  Borsdorffer  ; 
3,  Royal  Somerset  ;  4,  Dumelow’s  Seedling,  pale  ;  5,  Striped  Beefing, 
fine  ;  6,  Dumelow’s  Seedling,  coloured.  (T.  B.  B.). — 1,  Pitmaston 
Pineapple  ;  2,  Court  of  Wick  ;  3,  Royal  Rnsset ;  4,  Galloway  Pippin. 
(  W.  J.). — The  Red  Apples  arrived  quite  rotten,  in  which  condition  they 
resemble  Sops-in- Wine.  (J.  H.  N.). — Very  fine  specimens  of  Catshead, 
one  ot  best  culinary  Apples.  (H.  T.), — 1,  Beurre  Hardy  ;  2,  Beurre 
Superfin  ;  3,  eye  abnormal  and  stalk  broken,  otherwise  resembles  Marie 
Louise  ;  4,  not  in  condition  to  be  named,  one  side  rotten  ;  5,  Beurre  Diel ; 
6,  Beurre  d'Aremberg.  (Constant  Subscriber). — Pear  Beurre  Diel  ; 
Apples — 1,  Herefordshire  Pearmain  ;  2,  Evargil ;  3,  imperfect,  possibly 
