JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  27,  It 98, 
326 
A  NOVELTY  IN  CHRYSANTHEMUM  POSTERS. 
I  send  for  your  inspection  what  seems  to  me  to  be  one  of  the  most 
artistic  and  effective  posters  ever  designed  for  advertising  a  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  show.  The  event  to  which  it  refers  is  the  forthcoming 
Orand  International  Exhibition  and  Congress  at  Lille,  to  be  held  on  the 
10th  to  the  15th  November,  in  the  Palais  Rameau,  a  building  eminently 
suitable  for  such  a  gathering.  The  poster,  which  measures  more  than 
3  feet  by  4,  is  printed  in  several  colours,  and  represents  a  half-length 
figure  of  a  Japanese  girl  in  native  costume,  by  whose  side  there  is  a  huge 
vase  of  nine  or  ten  large  blooms  of  Chrysanthemums  of  various  colours, 
several  of  which  measure  8  or  9  inches  across.  In  the  left  hand  top 
corner  is  a  view  of  the  exhibition  building.  The  catch  word  “  Chrys- 
anthdmes”  is  in  large  red  letters  across  the  top  of  the  poster,  while  in 
the  intervening  spaces  details  of  the  show  are  given.  The  design  is 
one  that  I  understand  could  be  adapted  for  the  purpose  of  advertising 
an  English  show,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  wherever  posted  it  would 
attract  attention,  a  feature  of  primary  importance  in  such  a  piece  of 
work.— C.  H.  P. 
[We  have  seen  nothing  of  its  kind,  and  for  the  purpose,  to  compare 
with  this  poster  in  England.  It  is  a  work  of  art,  and  ought  to  serve 
its  purpose  admirably.  Miss  Japan  is  quite  charming  among  the 
Mums.”] 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Tuberoses  for  Winter  Flowering. 
As  tho  cultivation  of  the  Tuberose  for  winter  flowering  is  a  work  that 
demands  a  little  more  care  and  attention  than  is  usually  given  to  bulbs,  I 
have  chosen  the  subject  as  one  likely  to  be  agreeable  to  many  readers  of 
the  il  Young  Gardeners’  Domain.”  When  properly  managed  the  Tuberose 
is  a  valuable  addition  to  the  conservatory  or  flowering  house  ;  when  used 
however,  for  furnishing  rooms  its  strong  scent  is  oppressive  to  many 
'people.  The  pure  white  waxy  flowers  are  most  useful  for  buttonholes, 
for  which  purpose  they  are  much  in  demand.  The  time  of  potting  should 
be  regulated  according  to  when  they  are  needed  to  flower,  and  as  the 
bulbs  are  very  slow  in  starting  into  growth  unless  given  a  little  encourage¬ 
ment,  it  will  be  found  that  thov  may  be  brought  into  flower  at  almost  any 
season.  To  flower  bulbs  in  November  onwards  they  should  be  potted 
about  the  middle  of  January,  putting  two  or  three  in  5  or  6-inch  pots 
according  to  their  size.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to  provide  eflficiert, 
drainage.  The  soil  best  suited  to  them  is  rich  loam  and  sand,  with  a  little 
charcoal  added.  The  bulbs  must  be  potted  rather  firmly,  and  a  little 
sand  at  their  base  is  a  good  preventive  against  disease  during  the  months 
of  comparative  inaction,  which  must  necessarily  take  place  to  have  the 
flowers  at  the  time  required.  When  the  bulbs  are  potted  they  should  bo 
plunged  up  to  the  rims  of  the  pots  in  ashes  with  a  slight  covering  on  the 
top,  the  object  being  to  prevent  the  soil  becoming  dry  through  evaporation. 
A  few  bulbs  may  be  given  a  start  in  a  brisk  .bottom  heat  about  the 
month  of  May,  and  then  hardened  in  a  cold  frame  to  stand  during  the 
summer.  They  have  a  great  dislike  to  a  cold  damp  atmosphere,  and  on 
this  account  are  rather  difficult  to  manage  after  September.  If  much 
water  be  given  they  will  damp  at  the  base  of  tho  flower  stem,  and  if  the 
atmosphere  is  rot  kept  on  the  dry  side  the  flowers  are  apt  to  decay.  The 
chief  points,  I  believe,  for  the  supply  of  good  bloom  in  the  winter  months 
are  a  fairly  dry  atmosphere  and  prudent  watering.  — S.  S. 
Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Despite  the  exceedingly  dry  season  that  has  just  passed,  and  the  very 
heavy  storms  we  have  had,  and  are  now  having,  our  beds  and  borders  are 
looking  very  gay.  The  plants  of  Lobelia  cardinalis  are  indeed  a  fine 
sight.  They  are  in  the  herbaceous  borders,  not  merely  a  plant  here 
and  there,  but  in  plots  where  they  form  a  mass  of  deep  rich,  scarlet 
flowers,  which  are  extremely  useful  for  filling  tall  vases  when  the  flower 
spike  has  fully  developed.  With  us  they  attain  a  height  of  about 
3  feet.  Grown  in  small  pots,  they  are  valuable  for  conservatory  work. 
Seeds  may  be  sown  in  pans  in  early  spring,  and  placed  in  a  gentle  heat, 
till  germination  takes  place,  when  a  cold  frame  will  suffice.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  to  prevent  slugs  eating  off  the  seedlings,  therefore  elevate 
the  pans  on  a  pot,  and  dust  with  lime  occasionally.  Judgment  must  be 
exercised  in  watering,  so  as  not  to  displace  the  seedlings,  which  are  very 
minute.  When  largo  enough  to  handle  prick  off  in  boxes,  stand  outside 
in  a  half-shady  position,  and  afterwards  transfer  to  borders,  or  winter 
them  in  a  cold  frame  ready  for  planting  out  in  the  following  spring. 
— Parvo. 
-  Apple  Stealing. — The  case  of  Apple  stealing  reported  at 
page  246  reminds  me  of  a  good  story  which  I  heard  some  time  ago.  An 
old  Scotch  minister  “over  the  border”  had  a  beautiful  Apple  tree  in  his 
garden,  carrying  a  heavy  crop  of  tempting  fruit.  It  was  observed, 
morning  after  morning,  that  the  Apples  were  disappearing.  The  minister 
determined  if  possible  to  catch  the  thief,  and  secreting  himself  one  night 
behind  the  Apple  tree,  he  heard  someone  coming  stealthily  up  the  garden 
towards  the  place  where  he  was  concealed.  The  old  minister  moved 
quietly  out,  and  meeting  straight  in  the  face  a  well-known  parishioner, 
sternly  inquired,  “  Where  are  ye  gaun  the  night,  Sammy  l  ”  Sammy, 
turning  right  about,  and  making  off  as  quickly  as  possible,  hastily 
replied,  “  Back  again,  sir,  if  ye  be  there.”  No  more  Apples  disappeared 
■from  that  tree. — N.  N. 
WQRK.Foij.THE  WEEK.. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Trees.  —  Ripe  fruit  being 
required  at  the  end  of  April  or  in  May,  forcing  must  commence  in  accord¬ 
ance  with  the  varieties  in  earliness  or  otherwise  of  ripening.  Where  the 
houses  arc  planted  with  Ilale’s  Early,  Dr.  Hogg,  Crimson  Galande, 
Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George,  and  Dymond  Peaches,  Early  Rivers, 
Lord  Napier,  and  Stan  wick  Elruge  Nectarines,  forcing  must  commence 
about  the  middle  of  November  by  closing  the  house,  so  as  to  admit  of  a 
start  being  made  in  earnest  early  in  December.  But  where  the  trees 
consist  of  Alexander  or  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice  and  Early  Louise 
Peaches,  with  Cardinal  and  Advance  Nectarines,  forcing,  to  have  fruit 
ripe  at  the  time  named,  need  not  commence  in  earnest  until  the  new  year. 
Give  inside  borders  a  proper  supply  of  water,  but  do  not  make  the  soil 
sodden,  and  if  the  trees  are  weakly  supply  liquid  manure.  The  house 
may  be  kept  close,  not  allowing  the  temperature  to  exceed  50°  without 
full  ventilation,  syringing  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon  of 
fine  days,  admitting  air  abundantly  whenever  the  weather  is  bright, 
employing  fire  heat  only  to  exclude  frost.  Outside  borders  should  be 
protected  with  about  4  inches  thickness  of  leaves,  with  litter  over  them  to 
prevent  their  dislpacement  by  wind. 
Succession  Houses. — The  trees  must  not  be  hurried  in  casting  their 
foliage  by  removing  it  forcibly,  but  admit  air  freely,  especially  at  night, 
and  maintain  a  dry  atmosphere.  When  the  leaves  are  all  down 
unfasten  the  trees  from  the  trellis,  perform  any  pruning,  cleanse  the 
house  thoroughly,  paint  woodwork  and  trellis  if  necessary,  and  dress  the 
trees  with  an  insecticide.  Secure  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  leaving  room  in 
the  ligatures  for  the  branches  to  swell,  as  tight  tying  is  one  of  the  most 
prevalent  causes  of  gumming.  Remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the 
roots,  and  supply  fresh,  rather  stiff  loam,  with  about  a  fifth  of  well- 
decayed  manure,  and  apply  a  good  handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser 
per  square  yard,  pointing-in  very  lightly  to  prevent  loss  of  ammonia. 
Give  a  thorough  supply  of  water  to  inside  borders  of  houses  with  fixed 
roof-lights,  as  dryness  at  the  roots  often  causes  the  buds  to  fall. 
Late  Houses. — The  fruit,  except  on  a  few  of  the  latest  trees,  is  now 
nearly  all  gathered,  and  the  wood  that  has  borne  fruit  and  not  required 
for  extension  should  be  cut  out,  as  nothing  is  so  prejudicial  to  late  trees 
as  too  much  wood.  If  the  trees  are  young,  and  not  ripening  the  wood 
well,  form  a  trench  about  one-third  the  distance  from  the  stem  the  trees 
cover  in  height  of  trellis  and  down  to  the  drainage,  so  as  to  detach  the 
roots,  and  after  remaining  open  a  fortnight  fill  the  trench  firmly,  adding 
calcareous  matter  to  the  soil  if  deficient  of  that  substance.  This  will 
check  the  tendency  to  late  growth  and  induce  wood  ripening.  The 
surface  soil  in  the  undisturbed  portion  should  be  removed  down  to  the 
roots,  supplying  fresh  material,  or  replacing  tho  old  soil  after  adding 
some  calcareous  matter,  and  give  a  good  watering.  The  trees  will  push 
fresh  roots  and  ripen  the  wood,  but  lifting  must  not  be  practised  whilst 
the  wood  is  soft  and  the  leaves  green  and  sappy,  or  the  check  will  cause 
the  wood  to  shrivel. 
Pines. — As  growth  advances  more  or  less  in  these  plants  during  the 
winter  months,  they  should  be  placed  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  but 
not  in  contact  with  it.  This  will  enable  them  to  make  the  most  of  every 
ray  of  light  and  sunshine.  The  sturdy  plant  throws  up  a  well  formed 
fruit  In  due  season,  but  the  drawn  weakly  plant,  though  larger  in  leaf, 
furnishes  a  smaller  fruit  on  a  lanky  stem  at  an  uncertain  and  irregular 
time.  Therefore,  to  give  plants  the  benefit  of  clean  glass  and  proximity 
to  it  without  touching  is  to  grow  with  a  view  to  fruit,  and  to  keep  them 
at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  glass  and  crowded,  or  beneath  glass 
more  or  less  opaque  through  dirt,  with  its  concomitant  duller  and  moister 
atmosphere,  is  to  produce  foliage  instead  of  fruit. 
Fresh  Beds — The  beds  of  fermenting  materials  subside  considerably 
through  decomposition,  and  fresh  made  ones  settle  rapidly  unless  well 
trodden  down.  In  either  case  prompt  attention  should  be  given  to  raising 
the  plants  so  that  they  have  the  full  benefit  ot  the  light,  and  in  so  doing 
take  care  not  to  chill  or  allow  them  to  become  overheated  at  the  roots. 
New  beds  should  be  made  where  necessary.  The  best  plan  is  to  remove 
all  the  plants  to  a  structure  with  the  suitable  temperature,  clear  out  the 
old  fermenting  material,  supply  fresh,  and  not  return  the  plants  until  the 
beds  are  in  a  proper  condition.  To  take  Pine  plants  from  a  warm  house 
and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  chills  them,  and  returning  them  from 
cooler  quarters  acts  in  the  opposite  direction,  sometimes  causing  them 
to  throw  up  fruit  prematurely.  Oak,  Beech,  and  Spanish  Chestnut  leaves 
are  much  the  best,  as  they  are  more  durable  than  others,  and  the  heat  is 
consequently  milder  and  lasts  longer.  Tan,  of  course,  is  best  where  it 
can  be  procured,  and  about  half  the  quantity  suffices,  but  leaves  in  many 
cases  can  be  obtained  for  nothing  but  the  labour. 
Assorting  the  Plants. — It  is  a  good  practice  to  assort  tho  plants  according 
to  their  respective  requirements  before  winter.  Fruiting  plants  should 
be  accorded  the  best  places  in  order  to  swell  off  the  fruits  properly, 
particularly  at  this  season  when  natural  aid  is  at  a  minimum.  These 
must  have  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  artificial  means 
