October  27,  1698. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
327 
during  the  daytime.  Succession  plants  only  require  a  night  temperature 
of  60°  and  65°  by  day,  with  an  advance  from  sun  heat,  but  not  without 
air,  to  70°  or  75°.  Young  plants  will  progress  quite  fast  enough  and 
satisfactorily  in  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and  60°  to  G5°  in 
the  daytime,  above  which  ventilate  freely,  taking  care  to  avoid  chills. 
Fruiting  plants  require  moisture  at  all  times,  therefore  damp  the  paths 
and  wails  regularly  when  they  become  dry,  and  in  a  light  house  the  plants 
will  need  sprinkling  during  bright  weather  only  twice  or  thrice  a  week. 
Successional  plants  and  others  will  require  syringing  occasionally,  and 
damping  the  paths  and  walls  where  the  heat  is  derived  solely  from  hot- 
water  pipes,  but  where  fermenting  beds  are  employed  almost  enough 
atmospheric  moisture  will  be  secured  from  that  source  without  having 
recourse  to  the  syringe. 
Spring  Flowers. 
By  a  little  timely  forethought  on  the  part  of  the  bee-keeper,  it  is 
surprising  what  can  be  done  in  providing  a  succession  of  flowers 
from  which  the  bees  may  obtain  either  pollen  or  honey.  This  is 
more  apparent  during  the  early  spring  than  at  any  other  time,  and 
if  we  require  spring  flowers,  preparation  must  be  made  some  months 
previously.  The  present  is  a  good  time  to  take  the  matter  in  hand. 
Gardeners,  as  a  rule,  have  opportunities  not  possessed  by  others,  but 
all  who  have  a  garden,  whether  large  or  small,  may  do  something 
towards  the  desired  end. 
It  is  not  necessary  or  advisable  to  plant  large  plots  of  any  one 
variety  purposely  for  the  bees,  but  to  study  what  is  pleasing  to  the 
eye,  whether  on  a  large  or  small  scale.  There  are  so  many  beautiful 
spring  flowers  to  select  from,  that  one  has  no  difficulty  in  making 
a  selection  that  will  be  pleasing  to  the  bee-keeper,  and  of  benefit  to 
the  bees.  What  is  more  beautiful  than  a  bed  of  Anemone  fulgens 
with  its  bright  scarlet  flowers  ?  This  is  one  of  our  earliest  spring 
flowers.  If  not  already  done,  no  time  should  be  lost  in  planting 
them  where  they  are  to  remain,  choosing  an  open  border  facing  due 
south,  where  they  are  protected  from  cold  winds.  Anemone  fulgens 
is  not  at  all  particular  as  regards  soil.  The  one  thing  essential  for 
success  is  an  open  piece  of  ground  not  shaded  by  other  plants.  If 
mixed  with  other  plants,  they  rapidly  deteriorate.  Neither  do  they 
succeed  well  when  planted  in  the  turf. 
The  Winter  Aconite  is  another  charming  flower  appreciated  by 
everyone  on  account  of  its  earliness.  It  is  bright  yellow  in  colour, 
commencing  to  bloom,  if  the  weather  is  favourable,  early  in  .January. 
It  is  better  to  place  this  plant  in  large  masses,  either  in  the  open 
border  or  in  the  turf  under  the  trees.  In  either  position  it  will  grow 
freely,  and  if  the  flowers  are  not  gathered,  will  propagate  itself  from 
seed,  and  increase  at  a  rapid  rate.  We  have  seen  immense  breadths 
of  it  growing  under  Beech  trees  in  the  Midlands,  where  they  have 
probably  been  for  generations.  As  so  few  plants  will  grow  in  such  a 
position,  the  experiment  is  worth  trying  elsewhere.  The  Winter 
Aconite  may  also  be  used  as  an  edging  to  a  bed  of  Anemone  fulgens, 
when  the  two  colours  produce  a  pleasing  effect. 
The  different  varieties  of  Scillas  can  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 
We  prefer  Scilla  sibirica,  as  it  has  a  showy  appearance,  and  the  bee3 
work  freely  on  it.  It  may  be  planted  on  the  grass,  or  be  used  as  an 
edging.  But  wherever  planted,  it  has  a  much  better  appearance  if 
several  bulbs  are  put  a  few  inches  apart  instead  of  in  single  rows. 
When  planted  on  the  grass,  we  find  that  this  variety  does  riot  increase, 
although  the  bulbs  will  remain  in  the  same  spot  for  many  years  If 
planted  in  peat  or  leaf  soil,  such  as  Rhododendrons  will  grow  freely  in, 
they  will  grow  and  increase  at  a  rapid  rate,  both  from  offsets  and 
seeds. 
Tulips  may  also  be  freely  planted  in  the  borders  and  on  the  grass. 
For  the  latter,  we  prefer  the  scarlet  Due  Van  Tirol,  and  if  placed  under 
the  trees  with  Daffodils  and  similar  bulbs,  and  the  grass  is  allowed  to 
remain  uncut  until  the  foliage  of  the  bulbs  has  died  down,  they  need 
not  be  disturbed  from  one  year  to  the  other.  The  reason  so  many 
people  fail  with  bulbs  planted  in  the  turf,  is  because  the  tops  are  mown 
off  with  the  grass  before  the  bulbs  are  ripened.  If  they  are  planted 
under  the  trees,  ‘hev  may  be  left  until  this  has  taken  place  without 
having  that  untidy  appearance  they  would  have  when  growing  in  a 
conspicuous  place  on  the  open  lawn. 
We  should  not  omit  to  mention  the  homely  Snowdrop,  the  harbinger 
of  sirring,  as  wheiher  grown  in  the  mixed  border,  the  rockery,  or  on 
the  grass,  is  admired  by  all,  and  appreciated  by  the  bee*. — An  English 
Bee-keeper. 
That  Lecture  by  Mr.  Hewitt. 
I  see  your  correspondent,  “  J.  S.  H.,”  page  300,  has  omitted  to 
mention  that  the  lecture  and  manipulations  were  at  night  time,  in  a 
room  well  lighted  by  ordinary  gas  jets,  which  is,  I  believe,  the  first 
time  such  an  exhibition  has  ever  been  given  by  anyone.  The  object  of 
the  lecture  w'as  to  demonstrate  that  bees  can  be  as  easily  manipulated 
at  night  time  by  artificial  light  as  during  the  day.  As  regards  taking 
wing,  not  one  flew  from  the  frame  hive,  which  was  in  normal  condition, 
with  brood  in  all  stages,  and  I  do  not  think  that  more  than  eight  or 
ten  took  wing  from  the  swarm  that  was  thrown  on  the  floor,  and  these 
flew  to  the  light,  proving  that  when  they  do  take  wing,  they  make 
for  the  light  instead  of  the  operator.  No  one  was  stung,  although 
people  were  all  round,  and  no  bee  was  left  behind. — A  IIallamshire 
Bee-keeper. 
*%A11  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  a,  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  s.w.,  and  NOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers- 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
The  Mussel  Plum  (/.  F.  VF.). — This  Plum  is  employed  as  a  stock 
for  supporting  superior  varieties,  and  no  doubt  you  could  obtain  any 
desired  number  of  young  trees  from  a  nursery  in  your  county,  where 
Plums  are  extensively  raised,  and  grow  the  Mussels  into  bearing,  if  you 
think  it  worth  while  to  do  so. 
Artificial  Manure  for  Fruit  Garden  (  T.  A.). — The  dressing  you  propose 
giving  to  4000  trees  of  Apples,  Pears,  and  Plums,  with  Gooseberries  and 
Currants  between,  is  a  good  one — namely,  bone  superphosphate  3  parts 
and  kainit  2  parts,  mixed,  at  the  rate  of  5  cwt.  per  statute  acre,  applying 
in  November  and  hoeing  in,  following  with  a  dressing  of  nitrate  of 
soda.  Taking  the  ether  ingredients  into  consideration,  the  proper  amount 
of  nitrate  of  soda  to  use  is  cwt.  per  acre,  or  lb.  per  rod.  This  quantity 
should  be  applied  at  twice — the  first  dressing  when  the  trees  commence 
growing  in  the  spring,  the  second  when  the  fruit  is  a  quarter  grown.  It  is 
no  use  applying  nitrate  of  soda  late  in  the  growing  season,  for,  if  dry,  it 
does  no  good  ;  and,  if  wef,  does  more  harm  than  good  by  provoking  wood 
growth.  °  In  the  case  of  much  enfeeblement  through  cropping,  we  prefer 
to  use  the  mixture  of  bone  superphosphate  and  kainit  in  the  autumn,  and 
supplement  it  in  the  spring  with  bone  superphosphate  3  parts,  and  nitrate 
of  potash  2  parts,  using  the  same  amount  of  the  mixture  as  of  nitrate  of 
soda,  or  2>  cwt.  per  acre.  If  lb.  per  rod.  This  for  the  first  spring  dressing, 
hoeing  lightly,  and  following  shortly  afterwards  with  tho  nitrate  of  soda 
as  before  advised. 
Exhibiting  Rust-infested  Chrysanthemums  (J.  D.  M.).— Specimen 
bush  and  decorative  plants  infested  by  the  rust  fungus  (Uredo  chrys- 
anthemi)  would  be  at  a  great  disadvantage  in  competition  with  perfectly 
clean  health v  plains,  as  the  yellowish  spots  on  the  leaves  indicate 
sickliness.  Besides,  so  contagious  is  the  disease  through  the  plants 
containing  pustules  with  ripe  uredo  spores  dispersed  more  or  less  by  every 
movement  or  spocimen,  it  would  not  be  judicious  or  even  fair  to  exhibitors 
of  healthy  plants  to  place  diseased  ones  in  contiguity  with  them.  Truly, 
no  treatment  will  destroy  the  mycelium  of  the  fungus  within  the  tissues  of 
the  leaves  without  also  killing  these,  but  the  spores  are  certainly  destroyed 
by  treatment  with  sulphide  of  potassium,  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  especially  if  applied  with  a  sponge,  so  as  to  thoroughly  reach  and 
wet  the  spores  in  the  pustules.  You  have  simply  acted  too  late.  The 
attacks  should  be  prevented  by  timely  and  repeated  dressings  of  the 
sulphate'of  copper  preparations,  either  in  powder  form  or  as  Bordeaux 
mixture."  Good  results  also  attend  spraying  with  soluble  petroleum, 
2  fluid  ounces  or  a  wineglassful  to  a  gallon  of  water,  applying  in  the 
evening  at  a  temperature  of  130°  to  135°.  This  we  have  recently  found 
