JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  57,  1898. 
to  act  on  the  spores  in  the  pustules  before  the  epidermis  has  been  broken 
through. 
Rhododendrons  on  Chalk  Soil  (E.  F.  H.).—  On  a  chalk  soil  we  found 
these  shrubs  thrive  well  in  a  mixture  of  three  parts  half- decayed  leaves  and 
one  part  of  turfy  loam,  cut  about  2  inches  thick,  with  a  good  quantity 
(about  one-sixth  of  the  compost)  of  white  or  other  sharp  sand  added, 
chopping  up,  but  not  beating  the  material,  and  using  as  roughly  as 
possible.  This  was  placed  on  the  natural  soil,  and  raised  beds  thus 
formed.  The  depth  was  in  accordance  with  the  size  of  the  plants,  but  about 
6  inches  was  placed  on  and  the  balls  stood  on  it,  then  the  spaces  between 
these  raised  with  compost  to  3  inches  over  them.  A  dressing  of  fresh 
soil  was  given  annually.  The  plants  matted  the  surface  with  roots,  and 
succeeded  admirably.  Some  old  beds  in  which  the  plants  had  a  very 
sickly  appearance  were  top-dressed  with  rather  fresh — that  is,  partially 
dried  and  broken — cow  manure  in  the  early  spring  about  2  inches 
thick,  and  they  recovered  wonderfully  the  first  season.  By  continuing 
the  treatment,  and  supplying  liquid  (cow)  manure  during  the  latter  part 
of  'June  and  in  July  three  or  four  times,  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten 
days,  the  shrubs  soon  excelled  those  planted  near  by  in  prepared  beds  of 
peat,  both  in  growth,  colour  of  foliage,  and  size  of  flower  trusses.  In 
your  case,  if  the  chalk  water  comes  from  higher  or  adjoining  ground  and 
poisons  the  soil,  the  proposed  plan  of  forming  pits,  bottomed  and  lined 
with  clay,  would  answer.  The  idea  was  presumably  taken  from  a  sunken 
area,  once  a  pond,  converted  into  an  American  garden,  and  proved  a 
great  success,  but  the  precaution  was  taken  to  provide  rubble  drains  on 
the  clay,  and  thus  prevent  water  becoming  stagnant.  This,  of  course, 
implies  other  drains  with  proper  fall  and  outlet,  and  that  attended  to  we 
do  not  see  why  your  proposed  plan  should  not  answer.  Perhaps  rubble 
drains  around  the  beds  would  answer  as  well  as  the  clay  walls,  as  they 
would  intercept  the  chalk  water  and  carry  it  away. 
Gastronema,  Urceolina,  and  Boweia  Culture  (/.  C.  S.). — Cyrtanthus 
(Gastronema)  sanguinea  is  a  very  handsome  bulbous  plant  with  large 
flowers,  incurved,  tubular,  six-cleft,  bright  orange  red  within,  yellowish 
externally,  with  six  red  streaks,  scape  terete,  supporting  a  solitary  flower. 
It  flowers  in  August,  requires  to  be  grown  in  plenty  of  light  in  a  green¬ 
house,  and  to  be  well  supplied  with  water  when  in  a  growing  state,  but 
only  just  moist,  or  barely,  when  the  growth  is  completed.  A  compost  of 
strong  friable  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand  suits  the  plant,  growing  in 
bulb-pots,  narrow,  deep,  and  well  drained.  Urceolina  pendula  (aurea)  has 
very  beautiful  pendant  flowers,  yellow  in  the  basal  half,  green  above, 
margined  with  white.  It  bears  several  flowers  in  a  scape,  and  in  a  green¬ 
house  flowers  in  June  before  the  leaves  ;  but  wo  have  found  it  do  best 
in  a  cool  stove  on  shelves  near  the  glass,  and  then  flower  at  midwinter. 
As  we  had  several  dozens  of  plants  the  scapes  were  thrown  up  more  or 
less  from  October  to  February.  It  does  not  require  a  large  amount  of 
pot  room  ;  twice  or  three  times  the  diameter  of  the  bulbs  suffices  in  size  of 
pot,  or  several  bulbs  may  be  grown  in  a  pot,  sinking  them  just  even  with 
the  neck,  or  this  above  the  soil.  Good  turfy  loam,  with  a  little  leaf  mould 
and  sand,  over  good  drainage,  grows  them  well.  The  drying  off  system 
is  not  good,  but  keep  drier  when  at  rest  than  during  growth,  and  be 
careful  not  to  overwater,  yet  supply  it  liberally  when  required  and  before 
distressed  for  lack  of  it.  Boweia  solubilis  is  a  greenhouse  twining  bulbous 
plant,  more  interesting  than  desirable  for  its  flowers,  which  are  few, 
remote,  pedicellate,  six-partite,  green,  segments  reflexed.  It  does  well  in 
any  light,  well-drained  soil,  potting  to  the  extent  of  about  one-third  of  the 
bulb,  or  it  may  be  just  buried.  A  pot  twice  its  diameter  answers,  growing 
in  plenty  of  light  and  keeping  diy  when  at  rest  to  flower  in  October. 
True  leaves  are  frequently  not  developed  for  years,  but  the  green  fleshy 
inflorescense,  mostly  abortive,  performs  their  functions.  The  Orchid  is 
Lyeaste  lanipes. 
Treatment  of  Vallotas  and  Nerines  ( Doubtful ). — Yallotas  require  a 
compost  of  good  fibrous  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand  in  equal  parts.  They 
are  evergreen  bulbous  plants,  and  should  not  be  dried  off,  but  the  soil 
always  kept  moist.  The  bulbs  ought  to  be  about  half  buried  in  the  soil, 
and  when  potting  is  required  it  is  best  done  either  in  June  or  July  before 
flowering  or  just  after  blooming,  when  the  plants  have  made  fresh  growth. 
They  cannot  have  too  light  a  position  in  the  greenhouse  nor  have  too 
much  air,  provided  they  are  not  subjected  to  sharp  currents.  Supply 
water  freely  during  the  season  of  growth— autumn  to  spring — and  never 
allow  the  soil  to  become  very  dry,  yet  avoid  making  it  sodden  by  needless 
watering.  In  full  growth  they  are  benefited  by  an  occasional  application 
of  weak  liquid  manure.  Nerines,  unlike  Yallotas,  die  quite  down  every 
year,  hence  periods  for  growing  and  resting  must  be  annually  allowed. 
Most  of  the  species  flower  in  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  and  before 
the  appearance  of  the  leaves.  These  follow  close  on  the  flowering,  or 
the  plants  commence  growing  in  late  summer  or  autumn,  and  make  their 
growth  during  the  winter  months  and  ripen  it  in  the  spring  or  early 
summer.  When  growing  they  should  be  kept  moist,  but  not  over¬ 
watered,  and  well  up  to  the  light  in  a  greenhouse — that  is,  a  structure 
from  which  frost  is  excluded,  or  40°  to  45°,  with  air  freely  at  and  over  50°. 
When  the  leaves  give  indications  of  dying  down  gradually  withhold 
water,  and  altogether  when  they  die,  keeping  the  soil  quite  dry  until 
signs  of  growth  are  again  apparent.  As  the  bulbs  have  been  kept  for 
some  time  quite  dry  they  should  be  very  gradually  subjected  to  watering. 
They  do  not  require  repotting  very  frequently,  this  being  best  done  before 
they  commence  growing  or  during  June  or  July,  but  are  better  for  a  top- 
dressing  of  fresh  soil  when  flowering  or  growing  begins.  Loam  two  parts, 
leaf  mould  one  part,  and  one-sixth  of  sand,  with  a  little  charcoal,  is  a 
.good  compost  to  use,  and  adequate  drainage  must  be  provided.  Several 
bulbs  may  be  grown  in  a  pot,  allowing  their  diameter  between  them  and 
-covering  them  with  soil  to  near  the  neck. 
Selections  of  Fruit  Trees  (Amateur). — Peaches  and  Nectarines  for  early 
forcing  : — Peaches  :  Hale’s  Early,  A.  Bee,  and  Royal  George.  Nectarines  : 
Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  and  Stanwick  Elruge.  For  ripening  under 
glass  in  August : — Peaches  :  Dymond,  Noblesse,  and  Bellegarde. 
Nectarines  :  Rivers’  Orange,  Dryden,  and  Pineapple.  Pears  for  bushes 
or  pyramids  in  open  garden  :  — Summer  Doyenne  (very  small  and  early), 
Summer  Beurrb  d’Aremberg,  Triomphe  de  Vienne,  Beurre  Superfin, 
Fondante  d’Automne,  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey,  Comte  de  Lamy,  Emile 
d’Heyst,  Doyennd  du  Comice,  Passe  Colmar,  Beurre  d’ Anjou,  and  Jose¬ 
phine  de  Malines. 
Destruction  of  Anacharis  Alsinastrum  (/.  P.  S.). — This  American 
water  plant,  sometimes  a  troublesome  weed  in  ponds,  lakes,  streams, 
and  rivers  in  this  country,  grows  with  great  vigour  for  a  time  and  then 
gradually  loses  strength,  becoming  very  feeble  if  not  dying  out.  In 
the  case  of  small  ponds,  cleaning  out,  after  running  off  the  water, 
answers  in  most  cases,  if  every  particle  of  the  plant  is  removed.  But 
when  large  ponds  or  streams  are  overrun  by  the  weed  geese  or  swans 
are  the  best  remedy,  especially  the  latter,  as  they  eat  it  down,  and  in 
time  make  end  of  the  weed.  We  placed  three  Spanish  geese  and  five 
East  Indian  ducks  on  a  lake,  and  they  kept  this  and  all  other  weeds 
completely  in  subjection,  the  area  being  about  half  an  acre.  Two 
swans  did  more  execution  on  the  weed  than  the  geese  and  ducks,  and  for 
large  ponds,  lakes,  streams,  and  rivers  are  most  effective. 
Lady  Downe’s  Grapes  not  Colouring  Well  (A.  B.). — As  “  the  berries 
swell  to  a  good  size,  and  colour  best  near  the  bottom  of  the  Vine,”  we 
should  consider  the  border  too  deep  (5  feet !),  hence  the  Vine  too 
vigorous,  not  ripening  the  wood  well,  and  the  colouring  in  consequence 
imperfect.  No  wonder  the  Vines  “  make  very  strong  wood  and  foliage, 
the  latter  keeping  very  green  till  late  in  the  year.”  Alicante  always 
colours  well,  being  a  grosser  feeder  than  Lady  Downe’s,  w'hich  will  have 
more  heat  near  the  bottom  of  the  Vine  from  the  hot- water  pipes,  and  the 
bearing  shoots  will  be  less  vigorous,  with  smaller  bunches  there  than 
farther  up  the  rod.  This  excessive  vigour  we  consider  is  the  cause  of  the 
Grapes  not  finishing  well.  As  regards  remedy,  we  should  apply  a  top¬ 
dressing  of  some  approved  fertiliser,  such  as  those  advertised  for  Vines, 
and  advised  for  promoting  colour  and  finish  in  the  Grapes.  During  the 
season  of  growth  be  sparing  rather  than  otherwise  in  the  use  of  water, 
not  giving  more  than  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
Vine  in  health,  allowing  a  good  spread  of  foliage  beyond  the  show  for 
fruit,  and  having  all  parts  fully  exposed  to  light,  crowding  the  foliage 
being  carefully  avoided.  Avoid  liquid  manure  and  everything  tending  to 
over-luxuriance,  giving  plenty  of  air  in  all  the  stages  of  growth,  especially 
in  the  early  part  of  the  season  and  when  the  Grapes  are  colouring. 
Tree  Carnations  (Cymru). — The  best  plants  are  grown  well  up  to  the 
glass  in  light  span-roofed  greenhouses,  with  plenty  of  air  on  all  favourable 
occasions.  For  flowering  in  April  a  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  by 
artificial  means  would  suffice,  keeping  the  soil  rather  dry  instead  of  wet, 
so  as  to  secure  thoroughly  solidified  growth.  This  is  the  main  point, 
admitting  air  freely  at  and  above  45°  to  50°.  The  plants  will  then 
flower  if  sufficiently  strong  about  April  or  May,  or  if  wanted  earlier  the 
temperature  may  range  from  50°  to  55°,  but  admitting  a  free  circulation 
of  air  on  all  favourable  occasions  during  the  day.  For  plants  to  flower 
about  the  end  of  October  some  growers  root  the  cuttings  from  July  till 
the  end  of  August  in  gentle  heat,  or  layer  the  old  plants,  others  selecting 
side  shoot  cuttings  about  the  middle  of  January,  insert  them  in  bottom 
heat  of  70°  to  75°,  and  top  heat  of  60°  to  65°,  potting  singly  when  rooted, 
and  gradually  harden  so  as  to  bear  removal  to  a  greenhouse,  where  they 
should  remain  till  April  ;  they  may  then  be  shifted  and  grown  liberally. 
In  June  take  off  the  tops,  and  about  once  a  fortnight  remove  the 
points  of  any  side  shoots  which  appear  likely  to  bloom  up  the  middle  of 
July  or  beginning  of  August.  About  the  middle  of  September  they  may 
be  taken  indoors,  giving  plenty  of  air  for  a  few  days.  In  a  temperature 
of  45°  to  50°  plenty  of  bloom  may  be  obtained  during  the  winter  and 
spring  months.  If  wanted  earlier,  or  not  coming  forward  fast  enough, 
the  temperature  may  be  kept  at  50°  to  55°. 
Scale  on  Peach  Trees  (A.  B.). — You  were  rightly  told  that  hot  water, 
at  a  temperature  of  140°,  will  kill  brown  scale  (Lecanium  persica),  and 
you  ask,  Would  this  hurt  the  buds?  We  have  not  found  it  do  so  when 
used  judiciously  and  the  wood  thoroughly'  mature,  but  when  this  is  unripe 
there  is  danger  of  its  injuring  the  green  parts.  The  best  cure  we  have 
yet  found  for  brown  scale  on  Peach  trees  was  removing  the  roof-lights 
and  exposing  the  trees  to  the  frosts,  rains,  and  snows  of  the  winter 
months.  This  cannot  always  be  done,  therefore  we  have  used  hot  water 
.  without  harm  to  the  trees,  the  wood  being  well  ripened.  Treatment  with 
methylated  spirit,  applied  with  a  brush  just  moistened  therewith,  answers 
well.  Petroleum  emulsions  have  also  been  used  effectively.  The  gene¬ 
rality  of  insecticides  are  excellent,  and  need  only  applying  according  to 
the  instructions  to  destroy  the  pests.  Caustic  soda  and  commercial  potash, 
a  quarter  pound  each  to  4  gallons  of  water,  will  also  kill  scale,  applying 
carefully  with  a  brush,  or  spraying  on  at  a  temperature  of  130°,  taking 
care  not  to  apply  an  overdose.  The  Peach  trees  will  require  pruning 
back,  to  originate  growths  as  desired  for  furnishing  the  space  with 
branches,  especially  if  long  in  the  bhoots  and  not  well  ripened  to  the 
points.  They  will  also  require  disbudding — a  very  important  point,  so  as 
to  have  the  bearing  shoots  about  12  to  15  inches  apart  along  the  branches. 
If  the  shoots  to  form  these  are  not  very  strong  they  may  be  left  entire, 
and  growths  taken  from  them  to  form  both  extensions  and  bearing 
shoots. 
Names  of  Fruits.  —  Notice.  —  We  have  pleasure  in  naming  good 
typical  fruits  (when  the  names  are  discoverable)  for  the  convenience  of 
