November  3,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
339 
OUTDOOR  FIG  CULTURE. 
( Concluded  from,  page  268.) 
Protection. 
Trees  against  walls  require  protection  against  severe  frosts.  The 
leaves  seldom  die  naturally,  but  are  cut  off  by  the  early  autumn 
frosts,  and  before  the  recurrence  of  keen  weather  the  branches  must 
be  protected.  Usually  the  frosts  are  not  sufficiently  severe  to  injure 
the  Fig  tree  before  the  early  part  of  December.  The  old  gardeners,  or 
some  of  them,  seldom  bothered  their  brains  about  removing  the 
incipient  Figs  in  the  autumn,  but  simply  unnailed  the  branches, 
collected  them  in  bundles,  covered  these  with  clean  dry  straw,  and 
made  all  snug  by  a  wrapping  of  mats.  The  greatest  care  was  taken 
to  secure  the  safety  of  the  stem  or  stems  at  and  to  the  ground.  This 
protection  remained  on  until  the  end  of  February  or  beginning  of 
March,  when  the  bundles  were  loosed,  the  straw  removed,  and  the 
matting  only  left.  In  April  the  trees  were  gradually  exposed,  and 
then  they  were  pruned,  as  then  the  young  buds  had  begun  to  swell, 
and  wood  of  a  proper  character  distinguished  from  that  which  was 
useless.  Some,  however,  removed  all  the  fruits  as  large  as  a  horse 
bean  at  the  end  of  October  or  early  in  November,  under  the  impression 
that  they  robbed  the  trees  and  were  sure  to  perish. 
I  have  given  what  I  consider  the  better  practice  as  regards  the 
second  crop  Figs,  and  also  the  procedure  of  different  practitioners,  and 
shall  insist  upon  nothing  but  protection  in  all  except  favoured  places  in 
the  south  of  England  and  on  the  seaboard  in  other  localities.  Spruce 
branches  fastened  in  front  of  the  trees,  commencing  at  the  bottom  of 
the  wall,  and  proceeding  upwards  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  thatch 
answers  well,  as  the  leaves  drop  off  towards  the  spring,  when  needing 
less  protection.  Other  material  may  be  utilised,  Fern  being  excellent, 
also  thatched  hurdles  and  straw  mats.  Care  must  be  taken  to  protect 
the  main  stem,  otherwise  it  is  useless  covering  the  branches.  It  is 
seldom  that  the  Fig  requires  protection  in  the  spring,  as  growth 
rarely  begins  before  May,  when  the  embryo  Figs  start  almost 
simultaneously  with  the  shoots.  If  necessary  mats  may  be  suspended 
in  front  of  the  trees  on  frosty  nights  after  the  branches  are  adjusted  to 
the  wall. 
Routine. 
Except  when  fruitful  and  in  restricted  rooting  area  Fig  trees  do 
not  require  top-dressings  of  partially  decayed  manure  to  any  great 
extent.  I  think  the  trees  stand  frost  better  when  mulched  over  the 
roots  with  rather  littery  material  early  in  December,  removing  the 
rough  in  the  spring,  not  leaving  more  than  a  couple  of  inches  thickness 
of  the  shortest.  This  may  be  added  to  from  time  to  time  during  the 
summer,  but  not  increasing  the  thickness,  in  order  to  assist  the  trees 
in  dry  periods  to  swell  their  crops.  To  aid  still  more  the  trees  may 
receive  a  small  handful  per  square  yard  of  the  following  mixture 
when  starting  into  growth,  and  again  about  the  middle  of  July : — 
Dissolved  bones,  dry  and  crumbling,  five  parts ;  nitrate  of  potash, 
powdered,  one  part ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  quarter  part ;  and  chloride 
of  soda,  quarter  part,  mixed.  A  small  handful  equals  about  3  ozs. 
Only  in  dry  seasons  is  water  necessary,  and  then  only  when  the 
roots  are  in  relatively  dry  positions,  then  adequate  supplies  must  be 
given  as  required.  A  few  good  waterings  will  usually  be  all  that  is 
required,  and  should  cease,  as  a  rule,  by  or  before  the  fruit  commences 
ripening.  I  have  seldom  found  it  necessary  to  syringe  Fig  trees  out¬ 
doors  as  preventive  of  or  need  to  free  them  from  red  spider;  but  there 
may  be  exceptional  cases,  when,  of  course,  it  should  be  practised. 
Fig  trees  are  prone  to  casting  the  fruit.  I  do  not  consider  that 
it  arises  from  imperfect  fertilisation,  but  from  poverty  or  unripe 
wood.  The  close  pinching  rather  inclines  to  this  view.  Get  the 
wood  well  matured  at  the  points  of  the  shoots,  and  they  will 
generally  swell  the  first  crop  of  fruit.  The  retention  ot  the  second 
crop  Figs  certainly  takes  some  otherwise  stored  water  from  the  Fig 
buds,  therefore  rub  them  off  as  they  form  in  Angust,  or  later,  if 
they  attain  the  size  of  horse  beans.  Buds  that  do  not  become  large 
are  likely  to  remain  as  formed  over  the  winter  aud  develop  the 
following  summer  into  luscious  fruits. 
When  ripening  the  fruit  should  be  kept  as  dry  as  possible,  and 
safe  from  birds.  Wide  eaves  projecting  from  buildings  throw  off 
much  wet,  and  glass  copings  do  the  same  for  walls.  I  consider  Figs 
like  old-fashioned  places — abbeys,  castles,  manor  houses,  episcopal 
palaces — the  lime  of  the  walls,  their  warmth,  shelter  of  the  eaves, 
and  care  of  the  proprietors.  Hexagon  netting  in  front  of  wall  trees 
excludes  both  birds  and  predatory  insects.  An  excellent  practice  is 
to  enclose  each  fruit  in  a  muslin  bag  secured  to  the  branch,  which 
protects  the  fruit  and  prevents  its  falling.  This  plan  answers  well 
for  the  fruits  of  standard  trees. 
In  favourable  situations  very  handsome  effects  are  produced  by 
Fig  trees  as  standards.  Avenues  of  Figs  may  be  a  dream,  but  I 
picture  them  in  some  of  the  south  coast  resorts.  Plant  20  feet  apart 
and  let  the  trees  grow.  In  shaping  the  tree  three  limbs  placed  well 
around  the  stem  are  enough.  The  branches  putting  out  on  the 
under  side  of  these  main  limbs  should  be  suppressed,  and  those 
growing  obliquely  upright  retained.  The  head  will  mostly  frame 
itself,  but  due  regard  must  be  had  to  checking  exuberant  growths 
by  pinching,  both  to  secure  requisite  shoots  and  to  effect  an  equally 
balanced  and  symmetrical  shape. 
After  the  general  shape  of  the  tree  has  been  fixed,  there  is  little 
need  of  pruning,  except  to  remove  branches  which  cross  and  interfere 
with  each  other.  The  trees  usually  grow  very  compactly  in  firm  soil, 
and  are  hardy  and  fruitful  in  proportion.  Thinning  out  old  growths 
must  be  performed  carefully,  never  so  excessively  as  to  result  in  a 
quantity  of  long-jointed  watery  spray,  and  any  trees  growing  too 
freely  should  be  root-pruned  so  as  to  render  them  sturdy. 
The  dwarf  trees  are  best  with  clear  stems,  as  before  noted,  and  with 
about  three  branches  for  a  start.  They  can  be  pinched  at  about  the 
fifth  or  sixth  leaf,  and  subsequent  growths  at  the  same  amount  of 
growth,  but  not  after  the  end  of  August.  In  that  way  very  compact 
little  trees  may  be  had,  and  lifted  annually,  if  too  luxuriant,  they 
soon  come  into  bearing.  The  principle  to  act  upon  is  root  restriction, 
as  well  as  that  of  branch  limit,  keeping  the  head  almost  as  compact  as 
a  standard  Bay  tree,  but  with  the  branches  so  far  apart  and  so  disposed 
as  to  let  the  sun  shine  on  every  leaf  and  fruit  to  a  greater  or  lesser 
extent,  and  all  have  an  equal  share.  Such  trees  might  be  seen  in 
many  gardens,  as  they  are  now  under  glass,  all  imder  the  eye,  and  be 
so  kept  for  an  indefinite  period  by  cutting  back  straggling  branches  to 
successional  shoots.  All  they  need  is  a  suitable  situation — there  are 
many  in  the  south  of  England — a  well-drained  calcareous  soil,  and 
protection  from  unusually  severe  frost.  How  easy  to  lift  them  and 
winter  in  cellars  like  Dahlia,  and  place  in  the  summer  quarters  early 
in  May  ?  In  many  places  they  could  be  easily  protected  over  the 
roots  and  branches  in  their  permanent  quarters,  and  the  wholesome 
fruit  had  in  due  season. — G.  Abbey. 
ONIONISM. 
I  am  of  the  opinion  that  Mr.  W.  Pea  (page  201,  September  15th) 
is  quite  correct  in  saying  that  there  is  a  new  cult  developing,  the 
name  of  which  is  Onionism.  Onion  growing  for  large  bulbs  is  becoming 
more  popular  year  by  year  ;  for  instance,  in  my  particular  locality 
in  Kent  several  gardeners  are  growing  large  bulbs,  also  amateurs  and 
cottagers.  It  seems  to  be  the  cottagers’  ambition  to  be  well  abreast 
of  professional  gardeners  at  shows.  They  are  striving  in  the  right 
way,  and  succeeding  to  a  remarkable  degree.  A  good  Onion  bed  is 
the  pride  of  the  garden,  and  for  general  utility  there  are  few  vegetable 
crops  of  greater  importance  or  more  in  daily  request  than  that  of  the 
Onion. 
For  growing  large  specimens,  Mr.  Bond  selects  the  best  open 
position  available  in  the  kitchen  garden.  The  soil  is  rather  heavy 
working.  The  trenching  of  the  ground  is  usually  taken  in  hand  in 
October.  Manures  from  the  cow  stable,  piggery,  and  .scrapings  from 
poultry  yards  he  considers  powerful  and  good.  The  autumn  trenching 
is  done  three  spits  deep,  the  third  spit  being  left  in  the  bottom,  with 
a  thick  layer  of  manure  spread  over  it ;  another  good  layer  between  the 
next  two  spits,  and  so  on  until  the  work  is  completed.  Nothing  more 
is  done  to  the  ground  until  the  middle  of  January ;  then,  if  the 
weather  is  dry  and  the  soil  in  good  condition  for  working,  a  liberal 
dressing  of  burnt  ashes,  soot,  lime,  and  some  kind  of  artificial  manure 
mixed  together  is  applied  to  the  surface  and  lightly  forked  in. 
Another  dressing  is  given  in  February  or  March,  and  scuffled  or  well 
raked  in.  After  this  nothing  is  done  to  the  land  till  the  time  arrives 
for  planting. 
“  W.  S.,  Wilts ,”  observes  (page  244),  “  Both  Mr.  Pea  and  his 
friend  must  needs  find  some  qualification  for  this  continuous  tillage 
among  those  who  have  a  heavy  soil  to  reckon  with,  for  I  fear  in 
their  case  this  scuffling  and  worrying,  if  carried  out,  would  lead 
them  into  difficulties.”  I  wonder  what  difficulties  ?  The  first  year 
Mr.  Pea’s  friend  grew  bulbs  turning  the  scale  at  2  lbs. ;  this  year 
with  the  same  treatment  he  had  a  splendid  bed  of  Ailsa  Craig 
ranging  from  2  to  2£  lbs.  per  bulb,  also  fine  specimens  of  Lord  Keeper, 
Cocoanut,  and  Cranston’s  Excelsior.  The  work  of  scuffling  through 
some  of  the  dry  winter  months  with  the  application  of  wood  ashes, 
soot,  and  lime,  instead  of  leading  to  “difficulties,”  has  given  excellent 
results.  By  the  action  of  the  air  and  the  soil  moisture  the  evenly 
applied  mineral  substances  are  dissolved  ready  for  absorption  by  the 
roots  of  the  plants.  Where  the  soil  is  rich  in  humus  the  lime  acts 
on  the  vegetable  matter,  and  increases  the  soil’s  productiveness  to  a 
remarkable  degree.  The  ingredients  prescribed  also  prevent  to  a  great 
extent  the  attacks  of  insects. 
It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  from  the  time  the  plants  were  put  out 
in  April  until  the  bulbs  were  harvested  in  September  they  were 
entirely  dependant  on  rain  from  the  clouds  in  one  of  the  driest  parts 
of  the  kingdom.  No  water,  either  clear  or  in  the  form  of  liquid 
manure,  was  given  to  them  artificially.  Under  high  liquid  feeding  it 
is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  many  of  the  bulbs  would  have  reached 
the  weight  of  3  to  34  lbs.  each,  and  one  of  the  “difficulties”  that 
