November  10,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
367 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Nerines— Cultural  Notes. 
p  '  Nerines  are  the  brightest  of  all  our  autumn-flowering  bnlbs,  hence 
their  culture  is  worth  careful  consideration.  Their  flowering  season  is 
almost  over,  and  it  is  at  this  time  that  they  should  have  generous 
treatment. 
When  the  flowers  are  past  they  should  be  nipped  off  just  below  the 
ovary,  leaving  as  much  of  the  stalk  as  possible.  Science  gives  a  reason 
for  this  treatment.  It  tells  us,  and  proves  it  too,  that  fruits,  especially 
when  forming  seeds,  use  a  large  proportion  of  nutritive  sap  which  has  been 
specially  prepared  in  the  leaves.  Hence  if  we  remove  the  fruits  before 
the}’  enlarge  we  divert  the  sap  into  the  bulb,  where  it  can  be  stored  for  the 
exigency  of  a  future  flowering  season.  And  as  much  nutriment  had 
already  got  into  the  flower  stem,  that  nutriment  may  be  re-absorbed  by  the 
bulb  if  the  stem  is  left  intact.  Besides,  the  flower  stem  contains  a  great 
amount  of  the  green  granules  wh  ch  are  the  main  factors  in  the  formation 
of  nutritious  matter  from  the  raw  elements  in  air,  earth,  and  water. 
The  growth  of  Nerines  continues  active  after  flowering,  and  this 
should  be  encouraged  by  keeping  them  in  a  brisk  temperature — 45°  to 
50°  for  minimum,  and  80°  to  85'3,  or  even  more,  as  a  maximum  with  sun 
heat.  Such  a  high  temperature  may  be  considered  excessive  by  some  ; 
but,  given  sunny  weather,  and  the  plants  near  the  glass  in  a  shallow 
structure — a  heated  frame  with  a  south  aspect — that  temperature  may  be 
easily  reached,  and  I  believe  the  plants  would  benefit  accordingly.  When 
sun  heat  is  not  available,  as  is  often  the  case  in  late  autumn  and  winter, 
artificial  heat  will  have  to  be  admitted  to  maintain  a  temperature  a  few 
degrees  above  the  minimum  given,  as  a  uniform  heat  in  sunless  weather 
is  better  than  a  high  day  temperature  maintained  by  artificial  means. 
Then  when  we  remember  that  the  plants  under  consideration  are  natives 
of  South  Africa,  and  that  the  climate  there  becomes  warmer  for  the  same 
Teason  that  the  British  climate  becomes  colder,  that  the  sun  shines  more 
directly  on  the  southern  hemisphere  than  on  the  northern  during  our 
winter,  so  the  climate  of  the  former  is  then  at  its  maximum. 
They  should  also  be  put  where  they  receive  the  most  light,  for  the 
green  chlorophyll  in  the  stalks  and  leaves  w’orks  and  supplies  matter  for 
growth  in  proportion  (to  a  limited  point)  to  the  amount  of  light  it 
receives.  As  Nerines  flower  best  when  root-bound,  they  should  be  fed  at 
this  time  with  weak  liquid  manure  or  some  chemical  fertiliser,  or  even 
both. 
Weak  liquid  manure  may  be  applied  about  once  a  week  if  the  weather 
be  fair  and  conducive  to  growth.  They  must  also  be  carefully  tended  for 
their  water  supply.  If  such  culture  is  continued  till  the  leaves  show 
signs  of  exhaustion  in  March  or  April  the  bulbs  will  contain  the  necessary 
matter  for  producing  a  profusion  of  flowers.  About  this  time  water 
should  be  gradually  withheld,  and  by  the  end  of  May  they  may  be  put 
outside  in  a  sunny  position  with  a  light  over  them  to  ward  oft  heavy  rains. 
Slight  showers  will  be  beneficial  rather  than  otherwise,  but  ordinary 
w  atering  will  not  be  required  till  about  the  beginning  of  August,  when 
they  may  be  given  a  well-lighted  place  indoors,  top-dressed,  and  then 
watered 
Only  those  plants  which  have  not  been  potted  for  two  or  three  years, 
and  are  quite  root-bound,  should  be  repotted.  Good  fibrous  loam,  with 
the  addition  of  leaf  mould  and  sand  to  make  a  free  open  compost,  will 
suit  them.  A  little  well-decayed  cow  manure  may  also  be  added,  but  that 
is  not  essential.  Care  should  be  taken  with  the  roots  that  few  may  be 
injured. 
Such  are  a  few  cultural  hints  of  a  general  character  which  may  be  of 
use  to  those  who  know  and  contemplate  growing  with  success  this  brilliant 
genus  of  bulbous  plants. — X.  L.  C.  R. 
wow  foiithe  week.. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — All  plants  for  early  forcing  should  be  placed 
in  frames,  with  a  view  to  protect  them  from  severe  frost,  heavy  rains,  and 
snow.  Severe  frost  does  the  plants  no  good,  but  heavy  rains  and  snow 
often  cau-e  the  drainage  to  become  much  choked.  In  the  frames,  and 
plunged  in  ashes  to  the  rims  of  the  pots,  the  plants  are  quite  safe,  only 
take  care  not  to  let  any  become  and  remain  dry  at  the  roots,  to  use  the 
lights  only  when  heavy  rains  prevail,  and  then  with  them  tilted  at  the 
back,  and  closed  when  snow  or  frost  occurs,  otherwise  drawing  off  the 
lights. 
If  protection,  as  that  of  mats,  is  given  in  severe  weather,  the  plants 
can  be  removed  at  any  time  as  required  for  forcing.  One  of  the  worst 
and  commonest  practices  is  to  pile  the  pots — plants  outward— in  a  sort  of 
half  cone  against  a  wall,  packing  them  in  sawdust,  leaves,  or  soil,  and  the 
consequence  is  they  are  frozen  through  and  the  roots  injured,  whilst  not  a 
few  suffer  from  drought,  as  they  are  practically  unavailable  for  watering. 
A  greater  mistake  is  made  in  placing  the  plants  on  the  border  of  a  Peach 
house  with  open  ventilators,  where  the  currents  of  air  being  constant  and 
excessive,  provoke  evaporation  that  simply  waste  the  energies  of  the 
plants,  and  mostly  destroy  the  roots  at  the  sides  of  the  pots.  It  is  a  far 
better  plan  to  stand  the  pots  on  a  foundation  of  ashes  in  a  sheltered 
situation  and  surround  them  with  ashes  level  with  the  rim  of  the  pots, 
affording  a  light  covering  of  straw  in  severe  weathtr.  This  answers 
very  well  for  midseason  and  late  forcing  plants,  they  being  removable  at 
any  time,  and  take  no  harm,  only  if  frozen  they  must  be  thawed  in  a 
house  not  much  above  freezing  point. 
Where  there  is  the  convenience  of  a  Strawberry  house  and  fruit  is 
required  early,  say  in  late  February  or  early  March,  a  number  of  plants 
may  be  introduced  about  the  middle  of  this  month,  placing  them  on 
shelves  near  the  glass,  and  only  employing  fire  heat  to  exclude  frost  at 
night,  and  to  maintain  a  temperature  ot  50°  by  day,  at  and  above  which 
ventilate  freely.  These  plants  should  be  the  earliest  matured,  with 
well-formed  crowns,  and  of  the  most  approved  early  forcing  varieties, 
such  as  La  Grosse  Sucree,  Yiccmtesse  Hericart  de  Thury,  and  Royal 
Sovereign.  The  old  Black  Prince  can  hardly  be  recommended  on 
account  of  its  liability  to  mildew,  which  often  ruins  the  crop  of  this 
otherwise  excellent  variety  for  first  early  forcing.  The  mildew  almost 
always  appears  with  the  flowers,  and  then  gets  a  hold  on  the  fruit.  Early 
treatment  w’ith  bisulphide  of  calcium  is  an  effective  preventive.  It  may 
be  made  as  follows  Slake  1  lb.  of  freshly  burned  lime,  add  half  a  pound 
flowers  of  sulphur,  and  enough  water  to  form  a  paste,  then  add  1  gallon 
of  w  ater  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  It  should  bo  kept  constantly  stirred 
whilst  it  is  burning,  then  allowed  to  settle,  and  when  cool  pour  off  the 
clear  liquid  into  a  stone  bottle  and  keep  well  corked.  For  use  add  half  a 
gill  (one-eighth  pint)  to  a  3-gallon  waterpotful  of  water,  and  wet  every 
part  of  the  plants  by  spraying  or  dipping  them  in  the  solution  just  before 
the  trusses  start  from  the  crown,  and  repeat  before  the  flowers  open,  and 
again  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  set,  but  this  must  be  washed  off  within  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  or  it  will  “  spot”  the  berries. 
The  mildew  that  infests  Strawberries  seems  to  be  proof  against  dry 
sulphur — besides,  flowers  of  sulphur  dusted  on  Strawberries  after  they 
commence  swelling  is  almost  as  bad  as  the  disease.  This  fungus  (Oidium 
Balsami)  has  a  penchant  for  some  varieties  of  Strawberries— namely, 
Black  Prince,  Pioneer,  and  Sir  Joseph  Paxton  ;  as  La  Grosse  Sucree, 
Vicomtesse  Hdricart  de  Thury,  and  Royal  Sovereign  mostly  are  free  from 
it,  whilst  it  runs  riot  on  Black  Prince  in  the  same  house. 
Where  there  is  convenience  it  is  a  great  aid  to  early  forcing  to  afford 
the  plants  the  benefit  of  a  slight  warmth  at  the  roots  by  mukit  g  up  a  bed 
ot  leaves  about  2  feet  in  height,  placing  the  plants  in  a  frame  upon  it, 
packing  the  space  between  the  pots  with  damp  leaves.  The  bottom  heat 
at  the  base  of  the  pots  should  be  65°,  the  top  being  kept  cool,  50°  not 
being  exceeded,  and  when  mild  draw  off  the  fights.  This  will  promote 
activity  at  the  roots,  and  the  crowns  will  push  little  or  nothing,  yet  the 
plants  after  a  month  of  this  treatment— the  bed  then  being  cool,  or  the 
pots  withdrawn  gradually  from  the  bed  in  preparation  for  removal  to  a 
vinery  just  being  started — will  go  right  away  without  having  the  leaves 
drawn  or  the  trusses  weakened  by  being  placed  direct  from  cool  quarters 
in  a  house  almost  warm  enough  when  started  for  the  Strawberry  when  in 
flower.  In  fact,  plants  with  well-developed  crowns  and  abundant  roots 
do  not  always  succeed  in  a  vinery  because  they  are  brought  into  flower 
too  rapidly,  but  treated  in  the  manner  described  excellent  fruits  of  La 
Grosse  Sucree  may  be  had  in  March  from  a  vinery  started  at  the  new 
year.  This  variety  wre  find  swells  better  early  than  others,  and  though 
the  fruits  may  be  relatively  few  on  a  plant  they  are  of  even  size,  invariably 
colour  well,  and  are  of  good  flavour. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Forcing  Beans. — The  crops  produced  by  Kidney  Beans  during  the 
dull  days  of  early  winter  are  light,  but  an  occasional  dish  affords  variety 
to  the  somewhat  limited  number  of  choice  vegetables  available.  Shelves 
near  the  glass  and  the  front  walls  of  brick  pits  in  old  forcing  houses  and 
plant  stoves  are  among  the  best  positions  for  the  plants.  Those  already 
well  advanced  in  growth  must  be  carefully  watered.  More  seed  should 
be  sown  in  large  pots  about  every  three  weeks  or  month,  according  to 
circumstances.  Afford  ample  drainage,  use  a  moderately  rich  loamy  soil, 
and  allow  no  space  for  top-dressings,  as  these  do  little  or  no  good.  A 
temperature  of  60°  to  65°  by  night,  increasing  from  5Q  to  10°  on  warm 
days  suits  Beans  well. 
Digging  and  Trenching  Ground. — Whether  vacant  land  shall  be 
interfered  witb,  beyond  having  a  surface  cleaning  or  not,  ought  to 
depend  upon  circumstances.  If  it  is  naturally  finely  divided  and  non- 
retentive  of  the  more  soluble  fertilisers,  then  it  is  possible  more  harm  than 
good  would  result  from  manuring  and  digging  now.  Then,  again,  some 
soils  are  drier  and  warmer  if  left  in  a  comparatively  firm  state  till  near  the 
time  of  cropping.  Dug  now  they  would  absorb  much  of  the  moisture  that 
falls,  and  be  found  in  a  cold  saturated  state  next  spring.  As  a  rule  clayey 
grounds  are  improved  by  digging  or  trenching  in  the  autumn,  especially 
if  much  strawy  manure  is  turned  in.  Laid  up  roughly  to  the  action  of 
frosts  and  drying  winds  there  is  every  likelihood  of  its  becoming  pulverised 
or  workable  to  a  good  depth,  and  be  made  to  produce  crops  of  superior 
weight  and  quality  the  following  season.  On  no  account  ought  such  soils 
to  be  wheeled  or  trampled  on  when  in  a  wet  state,  an  abuse  of  this  rule 
causing  clayey  ground  to  become  closer  and  more  difficult  to  cultivate  for 
a  season  or  even  longer.  If  a  frost  cannot  be  waited  for,  commence 
operations  after  a  week  of  fine  weather,  and  then  do  all  the  wheeling 
necessary  over  planks. 
Bastard  trenching,  or  the  process  of  breaking  up  the  ground  two  good 
spits  deep  without  changing  the  position  of  surface  and  subsoil,  is  the 
most  desirable  and  only  safe  form  of  trenching  in  all  cases  where  the 
subsoil  is  either  clayey,  gravelly,  or  very  poor.  Not  till  it  has  been  well 
prepared  by  occasional  digging  and  manuring  ought  much  subsoil  to  be 
brought  to  the  surface,  burying  fertile  top  earth  and  bringing  up  sterile 
