November  24,  1893. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
407 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Winter-fruiting  Cucumbers  are  often  failures,  this  being 
chiefly  due  to  a  deficiency  of  heating  surface  combined  with  an  arid 
atmosphere.  Sharp  weather  necessitates  brisk  firing,  which,  when  there 
is  little  pipiDg,  dries  the  atmosphere,  causing  excessive  evaporation  from 
the  foliage,  and  it  becomes  crippled  in  consequence  ;  the  fruits  are  also 
stunted  and  swell  indifferently,  and  where  the  pipes  are  in  close  proximity 
to  the  roots  the  soil  is  dried  too  much,  and  the  growth  is  consequently 
not  healthy.  Heat  radiated  at  a  high  temperature  i3  not  good  for 
vegetation,  and  when  the  water  in  the  pipes  has  to  be  kept  near  boiling 
point  failure  is  almost  inevitable — besides,  it  is  highly  wasteful  ol  fuef. 
Admit  air  very  carefully,  yet  afford  a  little  whenever  a  favourable  oppor¬ 
tunity  offers,  excluding  it,  however,  when  the  external  is  sharp  and  cold, 
turning  off  the  top  heat  when  the  sun  is  powerful  and  likely  to  raise  the 
temperature  above  90°. 
In  bright  weather  damp  the  house  morning  and  afternoon,  closing 
early,  but  be  careful  not  to  wet  the  embryo  fruit,  for  water  hanging  from 
it  will  cause  decay.  Water  will  be  needed  at  the  roots  about  twice  a 
week,  always  affording  it  equal  in  temperature  to  that  of  the  bed. 
Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  and  70’  to  75°  by  day. 
advancing  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  endeavour  to  enclose  a3  much  sun 
heat  as  safe. 
Figs. — Earliest  Trees  in  Pots. — To  have  ripe  fruit  at  the  end  of  April 
or  early  in  May  the  trees  must  bo  started  early  in  December,  therefore 
dress  them  with  an  insecticide,  applying  it  with  a  brush  to  every  part, 
care  being  taken  not  to  rub  off  the  immature  fruits,  nor  damage  the  points 
of  the  shoots.  The  trees  should  bo  placed  on  loose  brickwork  pillars,  so 
that  they  may  not  settle  with  the  fermenting  material,  which  being  placed 
in  the  pit  and  brought  up  about  the  pots  will  afford  a  gentle  warmth,  but 
the  heat  about  the  pots  must  not  exceed  65°  until  the  trees  are  fairly  in 
growth.  The  top  heat  may  be  50°  to  55°  at  night,  and  G5‘  by  day,” the 
trees  and  house  being  damped  in  the  morning  of  fine  days,  and  again 
early  in  the  afternoon  ;  but  it  must  be  done  sufficiently  early  to  allow  the 
trees  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Tepid  water  must  be  given  at  the 
roots  to  keep  the  soil  thoroughly  moist,  but  not  making  sodden  by  needless 
applications.  Early  Violet,  St.  John’s,  Pingo  de  Mel,  and  Brown  Turkey 
are  excellent  varieties,  and  give  good  results  in  both  first  and  second 
crops  under  proper  managemi  nt.  One  of  the  most  important  conditions 
is  to  avoid  a  very  close  moist  atmosphere  at  the  commencement ;  the 
moisture  arising  from  the  fermenting  material,  with  an  occasional  damp¬ 
ing  of  the  paths  and  walls,  will  be  sufficient  in  dull  days. 
Pines.— Successicnal  Plants.— Span,  or  three-quarter  span-roofed  small 
houses  or  pits  properiy  ventilated  are  the  most  suitable  for  small  stock, 
which  at  this  season  often  suffer  irreparable  injury  from  being  kept  too  close 
and  warm,  the  plants  being  drawn  and  weakly.  A  temperaturo  of  60°  at 
night,  and  65°  in  the  daytime,  will  keep  all  young  stock  gently  progress¬ 
ing,  admitting  a  little  air  at  65°  at  the  top  of  the  house,  leaving  it  on  all  day, 
but  not  to  lower  the  temperature  below  that  point,  and  when  the  sun  raises 
the  temperature  to  75°  a  free  circulation  of  air  should  be  allowed.  The 
bottom  heat  ought  to  bo  kept  steady  at  80°.  Avoid  anything  approaching 
to  a  damp  atmosphere  ;  moderate  humidiiy  only  is  needed  at  this  time  olf 
year.  Apply  water  when  the  plants  become  dry,  and  then  afford  a 
thorough  supply  of  weak  liquid  manure.  It  is  essential  that  the  plants 
be  kept  well  up  to  the  light,  but  not  touching  the  glas3,  and  be  given  plenty 
of  room. 
Suckers. — Those  ready  for  starting  should  be  kept  until  March,  and  if 
there  i3  likely  to  be  a  scarcity  of  suckers,  any  recently  potted  may  be 
retained  in  5-inch  pots,  affording  them  a  light  position  in  a  rather  low 
and  moist  pit,  with  a  temperature  of  55°  nt  night  and  a  slight  bottom  heat, 
keeping  them  rather  dry.  Take  every  opportunity  of  collecting  leaves 
whilst  dry,  Oak  and  Beech  being  the  best,  and  whenever  a  favourable 
opportunity  offers  push  forward  whatever  may  be  necessary  in  the 
renewing  or  augmenting  the  fermenting  beds,  effecting  this  without 
giving  a  check  to  the  plants. 
Strawberries  in  Pots  — A  start  must  be  made  early  in  next  month  to 
have  fruit  ripe  early  in  March.  La  Grosse  Sucrde  has  been  our  standard 
early  forcing  variety  for  many  years,  and  we  have  not  found  any  other  so 
generally  reliable.  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury  usually  shows  and 
sets  abundance  of  fruits,  and  these,  if  well  thinned,  attain  a  good  size.  Royal 
Sovereign  has  displaced  the  last  named  variety  to  a  great  extent,  as  it  is 
excellent  for  early  forcing,  a  capital  cropper,  bright  in  colour,  with  good 
aroma,  ,and  first-rate  in  quality.  The  older  varieties,  such  as  Keens’ 
Seedling  and  Sir  Harry  have  fallen  into  the  background,  but  they  aro 
still  good  for  second  early  forcing,  the  dark  colour  and  high  quality 
being  esteemed  at  table.  Nob’.e  and  Auguste  Nicaiso  have  fine-looking 
fruits,  and  brought  on  slowly  may  be  started  with  the  preceding  varieties, 
assigning  them  positions  on  shelves  in  Peach  houses.  The  others,  to 
fruit  at  the  time  named,  will  require  forwarding  in  a  Strawberry  house. 
The  plants  to  be  introduced  should  have  the  drainage  seen  to,  rectifying 
it  if  defective,  making  sure  that  it  is  free,  removing  the  loose  surface  soil, 
and  supplying  a  top-dressing  of  sweetened  horse  droppings  or  dried 
cow  manure  rubbed  through  a  half-inch  sieve,  adding  a  good  handful  of 
I  steamed  bonemeal  to  every  peck,  then  watering  with  a  rose  to  moisten 
|  and  consolidate  the  material.  Pots  may  then  be  placed  in  position,  after 
removing  the  decayed  leaves  only,  taking  care  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  for 
dry  soil  causes  the  loss  of  roots,  but  only  supply  water  when  necessary, 
as  a  soddened  soil  ruins  the  plants. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Frait  Trees. — Preparing  Ground. — Where  the  soil  ha3  not 
been  prepared  for  planting  fruit  trees  it  ought  to  be  dealt  with  at  once. 
Thoroughly  deep  digging  is  of  the  greatest  importance — that  is,  the 
complete  moving  of  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  2  feet.  Should  the  ground 
be  light  and  dry  it  may  with  advantage  bo  worked  deeper.  Shallow  soils 
must,  if  possible,  be  deepened,  either  by  the  addition  of  fertile  material  or 
the  removal  of  a  foot  of  inferior  subsoil,  filling  up  with  new  soil.  Avoid 
adding  manure  to  the  soil  just  previous  to  planting,  especially  when  the 
manure  is  of  a  fresh,  rank  character.  Newly  dug  ground  must  be  made 
firm  before  it  becomes  wet.  That  which  has  been  prepared  for  some 
time  has  had  a  chance  of  consolidating. 
Preparation  of  Stations. — It  is  not  always  convenient  to  dig  the  whole 
of  the  ground  on  which  fruit  trees  are  to  be  planted,  hence  stations  may 
be  prepared.  The  width  of  the  stations  necessary  is  G  to  9  feet.  In  a 
circle  of  this  diameter  the  soil  should  bo  moved  to  the  depth  previously 
mentioned.  If  the  subsoil  is  found  wet  or  inclined  to  be  waterlogged  a 
layer  of  stones  or  brick  ends  may  be  placed  at  the  base,  covering  with 
turf.  Leaving  tho  soil  a  little  higher  than  originally  will  be  an  advan¬ 
tage.  In  dry  situations  drainage  will  not  be  necessary,  and  the  soil  should 
be  Kept  to  the  original  level. 
In  any  attempt  to  enrich  the  soil  give  preference  to  the  introduction 
of  good  ioain  rather  than  manure,  which  is  liable  to  promote  growth  of 
too  luxuriant  character. 
Preparing  Wall  Tree  Borders.  —  The  permanent  width  of  wall,  tree 
borders  ought  to  correspond  with  the  height  of  wall  when  the  trees  are 
on  free  stocks.  Cordons  and  trees  on  dwarfing  stocks  succeed  on  com¬ 
paratively  narrow  borders,  but  the  soil  must  be  good  and  well  prepared 
in  the  first  instance.  Stone  fruit  trees  demand  a  rooting  medium  of  a 
calcareous  nature,  hence  soils  which  are  insufficiently  supplied  with  lime 
ought  to  have  this  essential  added,  either  in  the  form  ot  lime  scraps  or 
old  mortar.  Trench  the  border  2  feet  deep,  adding  the  additional  materials 
required  as  the  work  proceeds.  It  is  advisable  to  give  uniform  treatment 
to  the  whole  of  the  border,  and  not  merely  to  a  limited  space  where  the 
trees  are  planted. 
Selection  of  Trees. — Properly  trained,  clean,  healthy,  and  well-ripened 
trees,  w^ell  furnished  with  fibrous  roots,  ought  in  all  cases  to  be  preferred. 
The  best  standard  varieties  suitable  for  the  position  and  purpose  required 
must  be  chosen.  Cheap  and  unnamed  trees  are  not  reliable.  The  best 
trees  can  be  secured  from  the  leading  fruit  nurserymen  at  a  reasonable 
price,  and  as  a  rule  they  can  be  depended  upon  to  be  what  they  are  stated, 
hence  they  are  the  cheapest  and  most  satisfactory  in  the  end. 
Treatment  of  Trees  Before  Planting. — Good  nurserymen  pack  and 
deliver  their  trees  in  proper  condition,  and  the  planter  on  receiving  them 
must  endeavour  to  keep  the  roots  fresh  and  uninjured  until  an  opportunity 
for  planting  arrives.  The  trees  must  be  laid  in  with  the  roots  in  damp 
soil.  Long  exposure  to  and  drying  in  the  air  are  fatal  to  young  fibrous 
roots.  Immediately  preceding  planting  the  roots  must  have  all  injured 
portions  pruned  away,  making  clean  upward  cuts  slantingly.  Very  long 
roots  may  be  considerably  shortened. 
Planting.—  Before  raising  the  trees  from  their  temporary  quarters  tho 
holes  to  receive  them  may  be  prepared  in  readiness.  They  must  bo 
wide  and  shallow,  deep  planting  not  being  advisable.  Material  for 
spreading  over  the  roots  should  be  laid  in  readiness.  This  may  consist 
of  loam  and  wood  ashes.  Tho  base  of  the  holes  ought  to  be  somewhat 
convex  or  mour.d-like.  The  lower  roots  should  be  spread  out  on  the 
mound  in  a  regular  even  manner.  Secure  them  in  position  by  sprinkling 
some  of  the  light  prepared  soil  over  them  from  the  stem  outwards,  and 
then  a  layer  of  ordinary  soil,  Anoiher  layer  of  roots  may  then  be 
arranged,  covering  all  carefully  with  fine  soil  as  before,  thus  insuring 
that  the  extremities  of  the  rootlets  are  not  turned  upward  or  backward. 
Although  it  is  essential  to  make  the  soil  about  the  roots  tolerably  firm, 
it  is  not  advisable  to  stamp  and  tread  tho  material  with  the  feet.  Doing 
so  may  cause  a  tension  and  pressure  upon  the  fibres  which  will  injure 
or  break  them. 
Staking.—  Standard  and  other  trees  which  need  support  ought  to  have 
the  stakes  fixed  at  the  time  of  planting.  Secure  the  stems  carefully  so  as- 
not  to  injure  tho  bark.  Trees  that  are  to  be  trained  on  walls  and  fences 
should  only  bo  lightly  secured  thereto  at  first,  so  as  to  allow  the  roots 
und  soil  to  sink  in  position. 
Watering. — Water  will  be  necessary  if  the  soil  is  at  all  dry.  It  also 
assists  in  consolidating  the  soil  among  the  roots. 
Mulching. — In  order  to  cover  the  double  purpose  of  retaining  moisture 
in  the  soil,  and  as  a  protection  against  frost,  a  mulching  of  littery  or  half- 
decayed  manure  may'  be  spread  over  the  roots.  This  is  better  than  wet 
or  thoroughly  decayed  manure. 
Funkia  subcordata  grandiflorA. —  How  seldom  do  we  see 
this  Funkia  growing  in  private  gardens,  y  et  its  merits  deserve  wider 
attention  than  it  receives.  In  a  cut  state  its  stately  spikes  of  pure  white 
fragrant  blossoms  resemble  various  members  of  the  Pancratium  family. 
Flowering  as  it  does  in  the  open  border  in  Soptcmber  and  October,  it  is 
useful  for  wreath  or  even  bouquet  making.  The  broad,  glaucous,  palo 
green  foliage  alone  renders  it  valuable  for  the  subtropical  garden. — E.  M. 
