444  Jtimmtt  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE ■  GARDENER,  December  8,  i89a_ 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DC  MAIN. 
Humea  elegans. 
Hume  a  elegans,  on  account  of  its  graceful  beauty  and  hardiness, 
is  a  most  delightful  plant  for  decorative  purposes  for  front  halls  and 
conservatories,  or  even  dotted  about  the  pleasure  grounds.  It  is  of  easy 
culture,  and  is.  for  this  reason  possibly,  neglected  and  elbowed  out  to 
make  room  for  novelties.  A  few  notes  on  its  culture  may  be  of  interest. 
To  start  at  the  beginning,  the  seed  should  be  sown  some  time  in  July  in 
.pans,  and  placed  in  a  propagating  pit  or  warm  house.  The  greatest  care 
>must  be  exercised  in  crocking,  and  a  very  good  plan  to  follow  is  to  water 
the  pan  of  soil,  and  let  it  drain  well  before  sowing,  which  should  bo  done 
thinly,  and  slightly  covering  the  seeds.  An  important  item  to  observe 
is  not  to  over-water  at  any  period  of  growth,  especially  while  the  seed 
is  germinating  or  the  seedlings  are  in  a  small  state. 
As  soon  as  the  young  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  they  should 
be  potted  singly  in  small  60’s,  but  the  soil  must  not  be  pressed  firmly. 
Afterwards  remove  them  to  their  former  quarters  until  they  are  established, 
when  they  should  be  placed  into  a  cooler  structure.  In  a  short  time  they 
will  have  filled  their  pots  with  roots,  and  require  removal  to  5-inch  or 
fi-inch  pots,  in  which  s:ze  it  will  be  well  to  winter  them.  They  like  a 
dry  atmosphere  dining  the  winter,  and  a  temperature  of  about  40°  is 
quite  sufficient.  By  about  the  middle  of  February  they  may  be  given 
their  final  shift  into  10-inch  or  12-inch  pots,  according  to  the  growth  they 
have  made. 
The  soil  best  suited  to  them  is  one-half  good  loam,  and  the  rest  leaf 
soil  and  sand,  and  the  compost  should  be  used  ns  rough  as  possible  at  all 
times.  As  the  plants  gain  size  a  little  bone-meal  or  other  artificial  manure 
might  be  added.  The  best  stimulant  that  can  be  given  is  cow  manure, 
and  if  they  cannot  be  watered  with  it.  a  layer  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  will 
be  beneficial.  If  a  few  plants  are  required  to  come  into  bloom  as  early  as 
May  they  should  be  put  into  heat  by  the  beginning  of  February,  but  the 
temperature  ought  not  to  exceed  80°.  It  they  are  not  wanted  until  a 
couple  of  months  later  it  is  best  to  grow  them  as  cool  as  possible.  Those 
grown  cool  will  make  the  best  plants.  The  chief  pest  that  attacks  them 
is  green  fly,  whitli  can  easily  be  removed  by  fumigation.  The  variety 
y>urpurea  will  be  found  the  best  for  all  purposes. — S.  S. 
Hardy  Plants  for  Furnishing. 
There  are  few  places,  I  think,  where  hardy  plants  a'e  not  forced  in 
greater  or  lesser  numbers  during  the  winter  months,  ami  though  it  would 
require  an  abler  pen  than  mine  to  give  a  detailed  article  on  this  subject 
the  following  may  be  of  interest  to  some  young  fellow  juniors.  At  the 
normal  time  of  flowering  in  the  open  we  take  little  notice  of  some  of  those 
named  ;  but  when  forced,  and  flowers  are  scarce,  their  presence  is  warmly 
welcomed.  One  of  the  easiest  and  earliest  to  force  is  Doronicttm  planta- 
ginoum,  which  produces  yellow  flowrcrs  in  great  profusion  if  the  crowns 
were  well  ripened,  Heuchera  sanguinea  is  a  prolific  bloomer  if  good 
plants  are  well  established  in  pots  or  boxes,  ami  their  rich  coral-like 
riow’ers  are  very  useful  for  bouquet  work.  Two  other  useful  plants  are 
Dielytra  spectabilis  and  Polygonatum  multiflorum,  commonly  called 
■Solomon’s  Seal. 
If  we  take  this  class  of  plants  fur  furnishing,  Funkias  must  not  ba 
omitted,  their  foliage  being  even  more  valuable  than  their  flowers,  which 
are  produced  on  spikes,  showing  clear  above  the  bright  green  leaves. 
Grown  in  various  sized  pots  they  are  indispensable  for  edging  groups. 
There  are  different  varieties.  One  of  the  best  is  F.  subcordata  grandi- 
flora  ;  with  its  hght  green  foliage  and  handsome  white  flowers  it  makvs  a 
good  specimen  plant.  If  placed  in  gentle  heat  in  early  spring  for  a 
short  time,  then  hardened  in  a  cold  frame,  they  will  be  useful  all  through 
the  summer  months.  By  the  autumn  their  foliage  will  begin  to  die 
down,  when  they  should  be  plunged  to  the  rim  of  the  pots  in  ashes  for  the 
winter. 
Df  hardwooded  plants  Lilacs  are  worthy  of  note,  and  are,  of  course, 
forced  in  enormous  numbers.  Most  persons,  I  think,  can  appreciate  a 
spray  of  white  Lilac  when  grown  outdoor?,  and  doubly  so  in  the  w  inter 
months.  Virginalis  is  a  grand  variety,  as  is  Charles  X..  also  Persian 
White.  It  these  are  not  procurable  the  old  purple  can  bo  had  white,  or 
nearly  so,  by  starting  the  plants  in  a  brisk  heat  in  a  stove,  and  then 
transferring  to  a  heated  Mushroom  house,  from  w liich  light  is  excluded. 
Prunus  sinensis  flore-pleno  is  easy  to  force,  and  is  a  most  attractive 
plant,  e. tlier  in  bush  or  pyramid  il  form.  Choisya  ternata,  with  its  white 
fragrant  flowers,  is  valuable  for  buttonholes,  bouquets,  and  sprays.  As  a 
foliage  plant,  wintered  in  a  cold  frame,  Veronica  Andersoni  variegata  is 
hard  to  excel,  and  grow  n  in  bu.-h  form  it  would  ornament  a  gentleman’s 
table. 
One  remark  I  should  like  to  pass  in  connection  with  all  forced  plants 
i  s,  that  great  care  should  be  taken  with  those  intended  for  further  use. 
i  hey  must  be  gradually  hardened  in  a  cooh  r  house,  and  when  placed 
outdoors  nave  a  warm  sheltered  spot,  if  only  for  a  few  days,  to  get 
all  growths  well  ripened.  In  this  way  stood  results  will  follow,  but 
e,.eet  this  important  point  and  failure  will  inevitably  accrue. —  Parvo. 
trade  catalogues  received. 
Dicksons  &  Co..  Waterloo  Place,  Edinburgh. —  Fruit  Trees, 
Pisher,  Son,  k  Sibray,  Ltd.,  Sheffield. —  Trees  and  Shrubs. 
^  ilmorin,  Andrieuq  &  Co.,  4,  Quai  de  la  Megisserie,  Paris.-fWs  of 
Trees  and  Sh  ubs.  h  J 
n  iF'  Sj'Yar°.^  ^0-’  Ltc1-’  Hal°  Farm  Nurseries,  Tottenham.— fasts  of 
Bulbs  and  Speci  iltics.  *,.•< 
IIARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Winter  pruning  Fruit  Trees. — All  the  leaves  having  now  fallen 
from  trees  and  bushes,  a  commencement  may  be  made  with  the 
important  operation  of  winter  pruning.  There  are  few  forms  of  trees 
which  do  not  need  some  attention  in  this  matter.  The  present  month 
is  the  best  season  Lr  carrying  out  the  work,  inasmuch  as  considerable 
spells  of  suitable  weather  prevail.  Mild  and  dry  or  cold  and  dry,  but  not 
frosty,  wet,  or  snowy  weather  should  be  chosen.  The  work  can  be  carried 
on  expeditiously  without  ill  effects  to  the  trees  or  inconvenience  to  the 
operator  when  all  conditions  are  favourable. 
Pruning  is  governed  by  the  form  of  tree  and  the  variety  of  fruit.  The 
method  of  pruning  bush  and  pyramid  trees  is  different  from  standard 
trees,  which  are  allowed  to  grow  without  restriction.  All  wall  fruit9  are 
not  pruned  alike,  and  the  treatment  of  small  bush  fruits  varies.  A  few 
hints  may  be  given  on  each  form. 
Bush  Trees.  —  Bush  trees  are  frequently  grown  w  ith  numerous 
branches  extending  from  very  short  stems,  and  well  shaped  specimens 
form  pleasing  and  compact  trees,  which  ultimately  possess  branches  of 
considerable  length,  well  furnished  with  fruit  buds  to  their  extremities. 
The  aim  uf  the  cultivator  should  be  not  to  crowd  the  branches  from  the 
first,  never  allowing  any  to  remain  closer  together  than  a  foot.  The 
winter  pruning  of  these  consists  in  shortening  the  side  growths  to  three 
buds,  thinning  out  and  reducing  the  length  of  elongated  spur3,  also 
removing  useless  weak  and  dead  wood  wherever  found.  The  leading 
shoots  may  be  shortened  as  closely  as  the  side  growths  if  tho  branches 
have  reached  sufficient  length.  If  not,  shorten  only  two-thirds,  leaving 
about  a  foot  of  new  grow  th. 
Pyramid  Trees. — Pears  are  chiefly  grown  on  this  form  of  tree, 
succeeding  better  than  Apples,  which  do  not  like  the  close  restriction. 
In  forming  pyramids,  the  branches  must  be  trained  longest  at  the  base. 
Tncy  ought  not  to  be  originated  too  closely,  or  be  allowed  to  fork,  which 
assists  largely  in  crowding  the  trees.  The  sido  shoots  on  each  branch 
require  to  be  pruned  back  to  two  or  three  buds  at  each  winter  pruning. 
When  the  clusters  of  spurs  are  not  originated  thickly,  or  permitted  to 
remain  in  a  crowded  state,  the  grow  ihs  will  bo  of  a  shorter,  more  robust, 
nnd  sturdier  character.  Many  of  the  shoots  may  not  advance  in  length, 
but  instead  form  ft uit  buds,  and  such  practically  need  no  pruning  lack. 
The  leader  of  eacli  branch  must  be  shortened  not  more  than  a  foot  yearly 
until  full  extension  is  reached,  when  close  annual  shortening  is  necessary. 
Spray  or  sappy  growths  starting  from  eionuant  eyes  in  the  old  wocid 
ought  to  be  rubbed  out  early,  but  if  remaining  at  the  winter  pruning  cut 
them  out  entirely. 
Standard  Trees. — Thinning  out,  not  shortening  any  branches  or 
growths,  is  the  best  treatment  to  accord  standard  trees.  Provided  they 
have  always  had  sufficient  loom  for  extension,  with  fiee  access  to  light 
and  air  on  all  sides,  the  trees  "  ill  he  well  balanced  and  shapely.  Light 
annual  thinning  will  maintain  the  trees  in  good  form  ar.d  productiveness, 
but  if  pruning  has  been  neglected  they  may  have  become  crowded  with 
brandies  crossing  and  intersecting,  "h  eh  need  removing.  The  centres  of 
the  trees  must  be  kept  fair  y  open,  cutting  out  inferior  growths  entirely. 
Horizontally  Trained  Trees.  — Suitable  varieties  of  Pears  trained  in 
this  form  against  walls  prove  to  he  very  productive  if  properly  planted, 
and  the  branches  are  originated  so  that  from  the  first  they  are  never 
crowded.  Crowding  is  very  injurious,  especially  to  the  lower  branches, 
which  are  shaded  by  these  above,  and  frequently  choked  also  with  too 
many  clusters  of  spurs.  The  latter  under  unfavourable  conditions 
soon  become  elongated  in  their  search  for  light  and  air.  There  should 
be  no  hesitation  in  thinning-out  any  branches  closer  together  than 
12  inches.  If  when  some  are  lemoved  the  space  between  the  rest  is 
1 1>  inches,  there  will  he  no  disadvantage  in  tho  increased  room.  The 
spur  clusters,  too,  may  be  thinned-out.  long  and  gnarled  portions  reduced, 
the  side  growths  being  shortened  to  one  or  two  buds. 
Cordon  Trees.  —  Cordons  on  walls  ami  fences  are  not  difficult  to 
manage.  If  single  coidons  they  ought  to  be  planted  not  less  than 
20  inches  apart,  hut  better  2  feet,  and  should  have  a  fairly  good  extent  of 
space  to  be  Irained  on.  Diagonal  training  is  the  best  for  walls  and 
fences,  as  by  this  system  a  greater  length  of  branch  may  be  secured,  and 
the  depression  causes  the  grow  ths  to  be  mote  equalised  in  vigour.  Spins 
might  only  to  he  orginated  thinly,  and  prevented  extending  too  far  from 
the  main  branch.  Side  shoots  must  be  pruned  in  annually  to  one  or  two 
buds,  and  the  leaders  allowed  to  extend  until  the  full  space  is  furnished. 
Fan-trained  Trees.  —  Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Morello 
Cherries  are  grown  with  a  good  supply  of  young  wood  annually  reserved 
and  trained-in,  as  by  this  system  the  best  crops  are  secured,  but  frequent 
attention  is  required  by  the  trees  during  summer  and  autumn  in  laying- 
in  young  wood  and  cutting-out  old.  -  U.-elrss  or  superfluous  wood  or 
branches  may  be  removed  new,  but  the  principal  pruning  of  Apricots, 
Peaches,  and  Nectarines  should  be  deferred  until  February.  Morello 
Cherries  may  be  pruned,  and  tho  shoots  nailed  or  ,tied-in  at  tho  earliest 
opportunity.  Plums  and  Sweet  Cherries  may  have  main  branches  spread 
thinly  Over  the  space,  and  these  furnished  with  spurs.  Where  there  is 
