July  (>,  iton. 
19 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
WOKK  .foiithe  WE  EK. . 
IIAUDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Propagating  Strawberries.— The  time  has  arrived  when  a  stock  of 
young  plants  should  lie  prepared  in  order  that  a  new  plantation  of 
vigorous  stock  may  lie  established  early,  which  insures  tiiut  they 
will  fruit  well  the  following  season.  When  plants  are  required  for  pot 
culture  it  is  also  necessary  that  they  be  rooted  early,  for  the  best  and  the 
strongest  plants  are  obtained  from  the  first,  runners.  It  is  important 
that  propagation  be  only  carried  out  with  runners  from  fruitful  plants, 
therefore  this  must  be  noted  now,  and  any  that  urc  not  fruitful  discarded, 
also  the  runners  from  them  destroyed. 
Rooting  in  Small  Rots. — Where  a  good  stock  of  plantH  is  wanted,  both 
for  forcing  in  pots  under  glass  in  early  spring,  and  for  early  planting 
outdoors  in  August,  the  method  of  rooting  into  small  pots  is 
perhaps  the  best  and  most  convenient ;  3-inch  pots  or  large  fiO’s  are  the 
best  size.  I’lace  a  piece  of  moist  turf  in  the  bottom  as  drainage,  thftt 
fill  up  with  a  mixture  of  substantial  loam  and  manure,  pressing  it 
firmly  down.  Stand  the  pots  on  the  soil  near  the  plants,  half  burying 
them  in  the  ground  as  a  precaution  against  drying  too  quickly  or  falling 
over  on  their  sides.  I’lantlets  just  emitting  roots  should  be  selected, 
fixing  them  on  the  soil  in  the  pots  by  means  of  a  stone.  This  is  better 
than  pegging  or  otherwise  securing  them,  bh  the  stone  shades  the  young 
rootlets  and  keep*  the  soil  moist.  Attend  well  to  the  watering  until 
established,  and  cut  off  the  points  of  the  runners  beyond  the  pots. 
Sever  the  runners  from  the  parent  plunts  as  soon  as  possible  after  the 
young  stock  is  rooted.  The  pots  may  then  he  conveniently  stood 
together  on  a  moist  base  of  ashes,  where  it  is  possible  to  readily 
water  them. 
Rooting  in  Turves. — This  is  an  excellent  method  of  rooting  a  stock  of 
plants  for  forming  a  new  plantation.  The  turves  should  he  3  or  1  inches 
square,  well  moistened  in  liquid  manure  or  water,  and  placed  grass  side 
downwards  under  the  plantlets  to  be  rooted.  Secure  the  latter  on  the 
turves  with  a  hooked  peg  or  a  flat  stone,  and  maintain  the  turves  moist. 
These  need  not  he  removed  until  the  ground  is  ready  for  plunting,  hut 
the  runners  must  be  cut  off  from  the  parent  plants  when  the  young  stock 
has  emitted  roots  into  the  turf.  The  great  point  is  to  water  frequently, 
so  that  the  turf  never  becomes  dust  dry.  If  the  quarters  for  planting 
•cannot  be  prepared  by  the  time  rooting  is  effected,  it  will  be  the  most 
desirable  plan  to  place  the  turves  closely  together  on  a  hard  base,  and 
there  attend  carefully  to  the  demands  of  the  plants  for  water. 
Rooting  Between  the  Rows. — This  is  a  good  system  for  all  but  the  very 
earliest  plants.  Slightly  fork-up  the  soil  if  hard,  and  introduce  a  little 
fresh  loamy  material.  Thin-out  the  weakest  runners,  and  select  the  best 
plantlet  for  propagation,  which  is  usually  the  first  produced.  They  soon 
root  in  moist  weather,  but  during  dry  periods  encourage  growih  by 
watering.  Detach  the  runners  from  the  parent  plants  as  soon  as  possible 
after  rooting  of  the  young  stock  is  effected.  It  is  essential  that  over¬ 
crowding  be  avoided,  and  shading  of  the  young  plants  by  the  foliage  of 
the  old  stools.  Many  good  plants  may  often  he  found  without  any 
assistance  in  the  matter  of  rooting,  and  these  come  in  handy  for  the  later 
plantings. 
Cleansing  Fruit  Trees. — Frequent  applications  of  water  with  the 
syringe,  hosepipe,  or  garden  engine  do  much  towards  maintaining  fruit 
trees  clean,  but  when  much  infested  with  aphis  or  red  spider  insecticides 
should  be  applied.  Tobacco  water  is  one  of  the  best,  and  muy  he  prepared 
from  tobacco  juice,  which  ought  to  be  diluted  six  times— that  is,  adding 
aix  times  the  quantity  of  water.  Shoots  that  are  chiefly  infested  at  the 
points  may  be  dipped  in  a  rather  stronger  solution.  Caterpillars  which 
roll  themselves  in  the  leaves  of  Apricots  must  be  picked  out  or 
crushed.  American  blight  is  very  conspicuous  now  on  Apple  trees,  and 
where  there  is  time  to  attempt  its  eradication  much  of  it  may  lie  destroyed 
by  well  brushing  the  infested  parts  w  ith  spirits  of  turpentine  or  methylated 
spirits,  using,  however,  no  more  than  is  absolutely  necessary. 
Mulching  and  Watering  Fruit  Borders.— The  moisture  in  the  soil  in 
which  wall  trees  are  growing  is  usually  deficient  at  the  present  time 
owing  to  the  rapid  evaporation  from  the  foliage,  and  the  demands  upon 
the  roots  for  the  support  of  the  crop.  A  copious  soaking  of  water  should 
he  given,  and  if  there  is  a  good  crop  of  fruit  liquid  manure  may  also  he 
applied.  A  liherul  mulching  of  manure  is  beneficial,  inasmuch  as  it  helps 
to  retain  the  moisture  supplied.  The  mulching  may  he  given  before  or 
after  the  watering. 
Vines  on  Walls. — New  rods  or  canes  ought  to  be  laid  in  from  the 
lower  parts  of  walls  and  given  plenty  of  space.  Stop  laterals  beyond 
•the  fruit,  tying  them  out  in  a  regular  manner.  Thin  the  berries  before 
the  bunches  become  crowded.  Mulch  the  roots,  and  water  freely. 
Wall  Gooseberries  and  Currants. — Red  and  White  Currants  and 
Gooseberries  when  trained  on  walls  need  similar  treatment.  At  the 
present  time  the  summer  pruning  is  the  most  important  item.  The  side 
or  foreright  shoots  can  ho  pinched  at  the  third  pair  of  leaves.  The 
leading  growth  may  also  he  stopped  if  the  space  is  filled,  but  not  if  there 
is  room  for  further  extension. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — The  trros  that  were 
started  from  early  December  to  the  new  year  will  for  some  time  have 
been  cleared  of  their  fruit,  and  having  the  wood  on  which  the  fruit  was 
borne  removed,  if  not  extension,  as  soon  as  the  fruit  was  gathered,  that 
retained  may  be  exposed  to  light  and  air.  It  is,  of  course,  essential  that 
the  buds  he  properly  formed  ar>d  perfected,  and  the  wood  thoroughly 
matured,  which  is  encouraged  by  clean  culture  and  proper  supplies  of 
nourishment.  The  trees,  therefore,  must  bo  syringed  and  cleansed  of 
insects,  if  necessary,  by  the  prompt  application  of  an  approved  insecticide, 
and  supplied  with  water  or,  in  the  case  of  weakly  trees,  liquid  manure  at 
the  roots.  A  light  mulching  will  also  tend  to  keep  the  roots  at  the 
surface,  and  prevent  the  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage.  The  buds  in 
most  cases  will  bo  sufficiently  plumped,  and  the  wood  firm  enough  to 
allow  the  roof-lights  being  removed.  This  should  not  further  ho  delayed, 
unless  the  trees  are  unusually  vigorous,  when  the  lights  may  remain  on 
a  time  longer,  or  if  lifting  is  to  he  done,  until  that  is  performed.  The 
removal  of  the  roof-lights  is  an  old  and  commendable  practice,  insuring 
complete  rest  for  the  trees  and  the  thorough  moistening  of  the  borders  by 
the  autumn  iains. 
S  ccession  Houses. — Tries  started  in  February  have  the  fruit  ripe,  and 
in  the  case  of  the  very  early  varieties  cleared  of  their  crops.  As  the 
fruits  uro  removed  cut  out  the  shoots  that  have  borne  them,  and  thin  the 
growths  where  they  are  so  close  that  the  foliage  cannot  have  full 
exposure  to  light  and  air.  Cleunse  the  trees  of  dust  by  means  of  the 
syringe  or  engine.  Red  spider,  or  an3'  insect  pests,  must  he  subdued  by 
trio  prompt  application  of  an  insecticide.  Keep  the  borders  thoroughly 
moist,  feeding  witli  liquid  manure  if  the  trees  have  carried  heavy  crops, 
are  at  ail  weakly,  or  do  not  plump  the  buds.  Stop  all  laterals  to  one 
joint  on  vigorous  trees,  or  allow  a  little  lateral  extension  if  the  trees  have 
the  buds  in  an  advanced  state,  this  preventinu  premature  ripening  of  the 
foliage.  When  the  wood  is  matured  and  the  buds  well  formed  remove 
the  roof-lights.  The  exposure  to  dew  and  rain  has  an  invigorating  effect. 
T) cos  Started  in  March. — The  fruit  of  the  second  early  anil  midseason 
varieties,  which  only  are  worth  growing  for  supplies  after  May  under 
forcing  treatment,  are  taking  the  last  swelling,  and  should  have  the  leaves 
drawn  aside  and  the  fruit  raised  by  meuns  of  laths  across  the  wires  of 
the  trellis,  so  that  the  apex  will  he  to  the  light.  Inside  and  outside 
borders  must  be  watered,  and  liquid  manure  supplied  until  the  fruit  com¬ 
mences  to  ripen.  A  light  mulch  of  lumpy  manure  will  lessen  the  need  of 
supplies  of  water,  but  avoid  heavy  mulching.  Ventilate  early,  or  rather 
increase  it,  as  a  little  air  on  all  night  is  very  beneficial,  and  syringe  by 
7  A.M.,  ventilating  freely  through  the  day.  When  the  sun  loses  power  in 
the  afternoon,  begin  to  reduce  the  air,  and  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature 
to  8,r)°  or  90°,  with  a  syringing  and  damping  of  the  surface.  This,  how¬ 
ever,  must  ho  done  with  judgment,  for  when  the  sun  is  powerful  and  the 
house  closed  the  water  may  he  heated  so  as  to  scorch  the  leaves,  which 
occurs  in  span-roofed  houses  running  east  and  west.  Water  also 
hanging  for  any  length  of  time  on  the  fruit  during  the  last  swelling  is 
liable  to  damage  the  skin,  causing  it  to  crack  and  imparting  a  musty 
flavour  ;  therefore  have  the  fruit  dry  before  nightfall,  and  in  dull  weather 
syringe  only  in  the  morning,  or  damp  the  floors  and  borders  instead  of 
wetting  the  trees.  Cease  syringing  directly  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen, 
but  damp  surfaces,  especially  the  borders  whenever  they  become  dry,  and 
ventilate  rather  freely. 
Later  Houses. — Where  rains  have  fallen  so  as  to  moisten  the  soil 
thoroughly  down  to  the  drainage,  watering  will  net  he  necessary,  but 
where  this  has  not  been  the  case  a  thorough  watering  should  be  given 
outside  borders  as  well  as  the  inside,  affording  liquid  manure  to  trees 
carrying  full  crops.  The  shoots  ought  to  be  tied  down  as  they  advance, 
not  crowding  them,  bnt  allowing  space  for  development,  as  without  full 
exposure  to  light  and  air  the  foliage  cannot  perforin  its  functions.  Stop 
the  laterals  at  the  first  joint,  and  to  each  succeeding  one  as  made.  (Jut 
back  gross  shoots  or  remove  them  altogether.  Ventilate  early  and  freely 
and  close  early,  with  plenty  of  moisture  in  the  house,  admitting  a  little 
at  the  top  before  nightfall,  and  not  keeping  constantly  dripping  with 
moisture.  If  needful  apply  an  insecticide,  as  under  no  circumstances  must 
red  spider,  thrips,  or  aphides  he  allowed  to  make  headway.  Mulch  the 
borders  with  some  partially  decayed  manure,  hut  not  more  than  an 
inch  or  two  thick,  and  lumpy  rather  than  such  as  when  wet  will  form  a 
soapy  mass. 
Unheated  Houses  or  Wall  Cases.  —  These  structures  are  generally 
planted  with  several  varieties  in  order  to  produce  a  long  succession  of 
fruit,  and  consequently  have  this  in  various  stages.  The  earliest  varieties, 
such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  attd  Early  Louise,  have  the  fruit  ripening, 
and  must  not  he  syringed,  while  the  second  early  will  soon  also  require 
to  have  the  water  kept  from  the  fruit.  The  midseason  and  late  varieties 
have  also  about  completed  the  stoning  process,  and  will  shortly  ho  taking 
the  last  swelling.  The  trees  must  be  well  supplied  with  water  or  liquid 
manure.  With  plenty  of  nourishment  at  the  roots,  and  the  foliage 
disposed  so  that  it  can  have  light  from  all  points,  the  fruit  swells  kindly 
and  colours  well.  Keep  the  growths  thinly  disposed,  every  shoot  given 
a  fair  share  of  sun  and  air.  Syringe  about  7  A.M.,  admit  a  little  air 
constantly,  and  increase  the  ventilation  with  the  advancing  temperature, 
having  it  full  at  75°.  Syringe  again  in  the  afternoon  about  5  I’.M.  If 
red  spider  appear  subdue  it  by  forcible  syringing  or  the  prompt  applica¬ 
tion  of  an  insecticide. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus. — Although  cutting  commenced  later  than  usual  it  ought 
to  cease  now.  Unless  the  plants  have  good  time  to  develop  and  mature 
abundance  of  strong  growths  they  cannot  produce  shoots  next  spring,  it 
