July  20,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
65 
by  exposing  the  trees  to  the  influence  of  the  atmosphere,  so  far  as  the 
house  will  admit.  As  the  best  means  of  arresting  premature  growth,  to 
which  the  Cherry  is  liable  when  forced  year  after  year  successively,  the 
roof-lights  must  be  removed,  trees  in  pots  should  be  placed  outdoors, 
plunging  the  pots  in  ashes.  If  the  root-lights  are  fixed,  ventilate  to  the 
fullest  extent.  The  borders  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry-,  but  have 
copious  supplies  of  water,  and  if  the  trees  are  weak  liquid  manure.  To 
subdue  red  spider,  give  an  occasional  washing  with  the  syringe  or  gardrn 
engine.  Promptly  subdue  black  aphides  with  tobacco  water.  Trees  in 
pots  must  be  regularly  syringed  and  wateied  to  preserve  the  foliage  in  a 
healthy  condition. 
Cucumbers. — Pot  the  seedlings  for  autumn  fruiting  as  they  require  it. 
placing  a  stick  to  each  plant  intended  for  trelliswork,  and  pinching  out 
the  fruit  of  such  as  are  required  for  growing  in  frames  or  pits  at  the  second 
Tough  leaf.  Prepare  fermenting  materials  to  afford  bottom  heat  for  the 
latter,  and  cleanse  houses  thoroughly,  the  woodwork  with  hot  water,  soap, 
and  a  brush,  the  glass  with  clear  wat°r,  and  limcwash  the  walls.  Remove 
all  the  old  soil,  and  make  everything  as  clean  and  sweet  as  possible. 
Turfy  loam  stacked  until  the  herbage  is  dead,  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish 
and  a  tenth  of  charcoal  form  a  suitable  compost. 
If  the  weather  prove  cold  and  sunless  it  will  be  necessary  to  employ 
a  little  fire  heat,  as  a  low  temperature  induces  stunted  fruits,  canker  at 
the  collar,  and  mildew  on  the  foliage.  Enough  artificial  heat  should  be 
used  in  such  weather  to  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  and 
70°  to  75°  by  day.  Sulphur  dusted  on  the  foliage  and  the  hot-water 
pipes  is  the  best  cure  for  mildew  and  white  fly.  and  quicklime  rubbed 
into  the  affected  parts  acts  well  against  the  canker.  If  aphides  appear 
fumigate  on  a  calm  evening,  and  repeat  early  the  following  morning.  This 
also  acts  well  against  thrips,  but  lor  these  and  also  red  spider  no  practice 
is  better  than  judicious  syringing,  even  with  hot  water  occasionally 
at  140°.  After  a  period  of  dull  weather  shade  on  a  return  of  bright 
sun,  so  as  to  prevent  flagging.  Keep  the  growths  regularly’  attended  to 
twice  a  week,  remove  exhausted  shoots,  and  maintain  a  succession  of 
hearing  wood  by  laying  in  young  growths.  Close  early,  running  up  to 
90°  to  100°,  and  ventilate  moderately,  keeping  up  a  good  moisture  by 
frequently  damping  the  paths. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — Those  which  w’ere 
started  by  or  before  the  new  year,  whether  the  varieties  consist  of  very 
early,  such  as  Alexander  and  Waterloo  Peaches,  with  Advance  or  Caidinal 
Nectarines,  or  such  as  Hale’s  Early.  Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George,  and 
Dymond  Peaches,  with  Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  and  Goldoni  Nectarines, 
have  been  cleared  of  their  fruit  some  time.  They  have  also  had  the  wood  on 
which  the  fruit  was  borne  removed,  also  the  superfluous  growths,  so  that 
those  retained  have  abundance  of  light  and  air  for  perfecting  the  fruit 
buds  and  the  maturity  of  the  wood,  which  is  encouraged  by  clean  foliage 
and  proper  supplies  of  nourishment.  Tho  trees  must  be  cleansed  of 
insects  if  necessary  by  the  prompt  employment  of  an  insecticide,  and 
duly  supplied  with  water,  or  in  the  case  of  weak  trees  liquid  manure  at 
the  roots.  A  light  mulching  will  also  tend  to  keep  the  roots  near  the 
surface  and  prevent  the  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage.  The  buds 
will  be  sufficiently  plumped,  and  the  wood  enough  ripened  to  allow  of  the 
roof-lights  being  removed,  which  should  not  be  further  delayed.  This  is 
an  old  and  commendable  practice,  not  the  least  of  its  advantages  being  the 
thorough  moistening  of  the  border  by  the  autumn  rains.  Where  the  roof- 
lights  are  not  removable  air  should  be  admitted  to  the  fullest  extent ; 
a  little  whitewash  syringed  on  the  roof-lights  where  the  panes  of  glass  are 
large,  and  when  the  sun’s  rays  are  powerful,  such  as  occurs  during  bright 
weather,  will  be  useful  in  preventing  the  over-maturity  of  the  buds  and 
their  dropping  at  a  later  period. 
Succession  Houses. — Trees  started  in  February  have  mostly  been  cleared 
of  their  fruit,  but  some  are  still  ripening  and  need  free  ventilation.  As 
the  fruit  is  removed  cut  out  the  wood  that  has  borne  it,  and  thin  the 
growths  where  too  close,  or  where  they  are  so  near  together  that  the 
foliage  cannot  have  proper  exposure  to  light  and  air.  Cleanse  the  trees 
from  dust  and  red  spider  by  forcible  syringing,  employing  an  insecticide 
against  it  and  scale.  Keep  the  border  moist,  supplying  1  quid  manure 
if  the  trees  have  cropped  heavily  and  are  enfeebled.  This  helps  them  to 
recuperate  and  plump  the  buds.  Stop  all  laterals  to  one  joint,  or  allow 
a  little  extension  if  the  trees  have  the  blossom  buds  prominent  and  the 
leaves  have  been  infested  with  red  spider,  with  a  view  to  continuing  the 
root  action  and  at  the  same  time  divert  the  sap  from  the  principal  buds, 
which  must  not  be  forced  into  growth.  When  the  buds  are  well  formed 
and  the  wood  duly  matured  remove  the  roof-lights. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Fruit. — Those  started  in  March  and  only  given 
sufficient  heat  to  insure  safety  for  the  blossom  and  fruit  from  frost,  or 
maintains  steady  progress  in  cold  periods,  have  the  fruit  in  an  advanced 
state  for  ripening.  The  leaves  should  be  drawn  aside  and  the  fruit 
raised  by  means  of  laths  across  the  trellis,  so  that  the  apex  will  be 
exposed  to  the  light.  Water  inside,  also  outside  borders  where  necessary 
with  liquid  manure,  and  keep  the  surface  lightly  mulched  with  short, 
rather  lumpy  manure,  but  avoid  heavy  coatings,  especially  of  matter  likely 
to  form  a  soapy  mass,  and  exclude'air.  Commence  ventilating  early  ;  in 
fact,  leave  a  little  air  on  all  night,  syringing  by  7  A.M.,  and  through  the 
early  part  of  the  day  ventilate  freely. 
When  the  sun  loses  power  in  the  afternoon  reduce  the  ventilation,  and 
raise  the  temperature  to  85°  or  90°  about  4  P.M.,  with  a  good  syringing 
and  damping  of  surfaces  ;  but  it  must  be  done  with  judgment,  for  when 
the  water  hangs  for  any  length  of  time  on  the  fruit  during  the  last 
swelling,  it  is  liable  to  damage  the  skin,  causing  it  to  crack,  or,  if  not 
that,  it  may  impart  a  musty  flavour.  Therefore  have  the  fruits  dry  before 
nightfall,  and  when  the  day  is  likely  to  he  dull  omit  the  morning  syring¬ 
ing.  Directly  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen  cease  syringing,  but  afford 
moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  whenever  they  become  dry, 
ventilating  freely,  and  sufficiently  at  night  to  insure  a  tree  circulation 
of  air. 
Late  Houses.—  In  order  to  assist  the  swelling  of  the  fruit,  observe 
the  conditions  laid  down  in  the  preceding  paragraph.  To  accelerate 
the  ripening,  if  desired,  ventilate  rather  freely  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  and  till  or.e  o’clock,  then  conserve  the  heat  by  reducing  the  ventila¬ 
tion,  so  as  to  secure  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°,  and  at  4  p.m.  close  the 
house,  syringing  well,  and  no  harm  will  come  if  the  heat  rise  to  90°  or 
95°,  ventilating  about  six  o’clock,  so  as  to  let  the  pent-up  moisture 
escape,  and  reduce  the  temperature  gradually.  Tie  down  growths  as 
they  advance,  allowing  no  more  than  are  necessary  for  next  year’s 
fruiting  and  for  furnishing  the  trees,  letting  all  have  space  for  develop¬ 
ment,  and  the  full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  light  and  air.  Keep  laterals 
stopped  to  one  leaf,  also  those  of  growths  retained  to  attract  the  sap  to 
the  fruit.  If  there  are  any  gross  growths  which  push  shoots  from  the 
leaf  buds,  cut  them  back  to  where  the  buds  remain  intact,  or  if  likely  to 
disarrange  the  equilibrium  of  the  trees  by  the  unequalisation  of  the  sap 
remove  them  altogether.  They  only  tend  to  promote  gumming,  imperfect 
setting,  and  certain  casting  of  the  fruit  in  stoning.  Draw  the  leaves  away 
from  the  fruit,  raise  it  from  the  under  side  of  the  trellis,  and  let  it  have  as 
much  sun  and  air  as  possible.  Peaches  are  not  so  much  prized  unless 
coloured,  the  flavour  corresponding  thereto,  other  conditions  being 
favourable. 
£\\  (o 
.  h.  -  -  ■*  a - - — .  I  .  1  .  |.|.  ■  .  <  .  r  .  i  .  .  -  .  .  i  -  .  .  ■  .  .  ,  -  ,  .  |  . — 1  •.  T  - — 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
'  -  -nir - 'll'  •  .  -  .  -  -  i  -  i  -  i  -i  -  1  iirr.I  *  i  -  i  -  i  -  !  -  I  -  )  -  I  .-7  •  i  -  i  -  i  -  1  -  ,  -  I  . 
Work  in  the  Apiary. 
Although  it  is  not  ideal  weather  for  honey  production,  it  is  an 
improvement  on  the  past  year  or  two.  Only  on  a  fewr  occasions 
during  the  past  fortnight  has  +he  weather  been  really  favourable  for 
the  bees  to  store  a  surplus.  Dull  days  and  occasional  thunder  showers 
have  had  the  effect  of  keeping  the  bees  at  home.  It  is,  however, 
surprising  the  amount  of  honey  a  strong  colony  of  bees  will  store  at 
this  season  when  the  sun  is  bright  and  the  temperature  high. 
The  late  rains  benefited  the  pastures  and  there  is  now  an  abundance 
of  bee  forage.  White  Clover  is  still  blooming  freely,  and  the  Limes 
are  fast  bursting  into  flower,  from  which  a  superior  sample  of  houev  is 
being  stored. 
Sections  must  he  removed  from  the  supers  as  soon  as  they  are 
sealed  over,  otherwise  they  will  soon  become  discoloured.  In  removing 
supers  at  this  season  it  is  not  necessary  to  use  the  smoker,  all  that  is 
required  for  the  purpose  is  a  piece  of  calico  which  may  he  dipped  in 
water  and  afterwards  sprinkled  with  carbolic  acid,  which  should  he 
done  an  hour  before  it  is  required.  The  carbolic  cloth  must  be  laid 
over  the  top  of  the  supers  for  a  few  minutes,  and  will  have  the  effect 
of  driving  all  the  bees  down  among  the  brood  combs ;  the  sections 
may  then  he  handled  with  impunity. 
If  the  whole  of  the  sections  are  sealed  over  they  may  he  removed 
bodily,  and  a  crate  of  empty  sections  should  take  their  place.  If  a 
double  crate  of  sections  has  been  on  a  single  hive,  as  advised  in  previous 
notes,  the  lower  crate  will  be  partly  sealed  over. 
It  is  not  too  late  in  the^  season  to  place  an  empty  crate  underneath, 
as  there  is  still  a  possibility  of  it  being  filled.  It  is  not  advisable, 
however,  to  do  so  after  the  middle  of  July  unless  a  crop  of  honey  can 
be  obtained  from  the  Heather  or  other  late  blooming  plants.  In  this 
district  (South  Yorkshire)  the  Limes  are  the  last  source  from  which  the 
lees  obtain  a  surplus.  This  season,  however,  is  an  exception  as 
regards  White  Clover,  as  on  our  heavy  soil  there  is  every  appearance 
of  it  lasting  for  several  weeks  yet. 
Sections  should  he  stored  in  a  dry  place,  and  be  cleaned  of  any 
propolis  that  may  adhere  to  Ihem.  They  will  then  be  ready  for  use 
without  any  further  trouble.  If  the  wood  is  stained  they  may  be 
improved  by  rubbing  them  lightly  with  sandpaper.  The  sections 
should  always  stand  in  the  same  position  they  occupied  on  the  hive, 
no  leakage  will  then  take  place  should  there  be  any  cells  not  pioperly 
sealed.  If  a  mark  of  some  description  is  placed  on  the  top  one  may 
see  at  a  glance  how  to  place  them. 
Extracted  honey  should  be  stored  in  cisterns  or  other  large  vessels, 
so  that  attention  may  be  given  to  it  after  the  busy  season  in  the 
apiary  is  over.  For  this  purpose  we  prefer  large  cisterns  similar  to  an 
extractor  with  the  works  removed.  These  are  made  with  a  close- 
fitting  lid  and  a  treacle  tap  at  the  hettom.  Cisterns  of  this  descrip¬ 
tion  are  most  useful  for  storing  purposes  and  also  for  bottling,  as  the 
honey  when  running  through  the  treacle  tap  may  be  regulated  to  a 
nicety.  Run  honey  when  well  ripened  will  soon  granulate  if  stored  in 
a  cold  place.  It  is  then  somewhat  difficult  to  handle  if  required  for 
small  bottles.  If  it  is  not  needed  in  hulk  no  time  should  he  lost  in 
bottling  it,  thus  avoiding  much  trouble  in  meltmg  it  after  granulation 
haa  taken  place.— An  English  Bee-keeper. 
