88 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
J  uly  27,  1899. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Gloxinias. 
Perhaps  of  all  stove  tuberous-rooted  plants  there  is  none  t>»  equal  the 
Gloxinia.  The  flowers  range  through  all  colours  pertaining  to  red,  blue, 
and  white,  the  spotted  varieties  also  being  very  beautiful.  They  are 
especially  admired  by  ladies,  to  whom  the  gorgeous  colours  appeal  very 
strongly.  Great  improvements  have  of  late  years  been  effected  by  cross¬ 
fertilisation  and  selection,  in  which  good  work  Messrs.  J.  Yeitch  <fc  Sons 
of  Chelsea,  and  Messrs.  Sutton  &  Sons  of  Reading,  have  played  con¬ 
spicuous  parts. 
Before  the  present  strains  existed  the  flowers  were  drooping,  which 
considerably  detracted  from  their  beauty.  To  have  secured  the  race  as 
it  exists  to-day,  an  enormous  amount  of  patience  and  energy  must  have 
been  expended,  and  great  praise  is  due  to  those  whose  untiring  per* 
severance  has  effected  such  wonderful  results. 
The  cultivation  of  the  Gloxinia  is  not  at  all  difficult  provided 
abundance  of  heat  and  moisture  are  at  command.  In  some  establish¬ 
ments  there  is  not  the  convenience  one  desires.  A  light,  low  span-roof 
house  suits  them  admirably.  Gloxinias  may  be  had  in  flower  for  a  con¬ 
siderable  period  if  required  bv  starting  old  tubers  at  intervals  until  all 
have  broken,  and  after  ibis,  with  a  little  forethought,  by  sowing  seed  at 
intervals  as  desired.  Time  must  be  allowed  seedlings  to  ripen  their 
tubers  at  the  end  of  summer,  as  these  make  the  best  plants  and  develop 
the  best  flowers  the  season  following.  If  not  thoroughly  ripened,  how¬ 
ever.  failure  will  in  all  probability  result. 
Start  the  tubers  in  leaf  mould  in  boxes,  and  place  them  in  a  warm 
house.  Growth  will  soon  commence,  when  the  tubers  must  be  put 
into  48’s.  The  soil  should  consist  of  loam,  leaf  soil,  and  peat,  two  parts 
of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter,  excepting  in  very  light  loam  ;  then  use 
less  leaf  mould  and  peat,  some  good  sharp  sand,  and  a  sprinkling  of  soot. 
Broken  charcoal  helps  to  keep  the  compost  sweet.  Do  not  let  the  Foil 
become  sodden  on  any  account.  Syrirge  lightly  twice  a  dav  when  the 
weather  is  warm  to  prevent  thrips  securing  a  firm  foothold. — W.  J.  M. 
(To  be  concluded.) 
Floral  Decorations. 
FLORAL  decorations  are  extensively  carried  out  in  most  establish¬ 
ments  with  the  aid  of  plants  and  cut  flowers,  and  where  large  quantities 
of  the  latter  are  required  daily'  it  demands  a  considerable  amount  of  skill 
and  forethought  to  produce  enough  the  whole  year  through.  The 
arrangement  of  these  generally  falls  to  the  foreman  in  large  establish¬ 
ments,  though  occasionally  a  decorator  is  kept  to  do  the  work.  It 
behoves  every'  gardener  or  decorator  to  find  out  the  plants  and  flowers 
most  appreciated  by  his  employer,  and  to  grow  these  accordingly. 
All  foliage  and  flowering  plants  should  harmonise  with  the  dominant 
colours  of  the  various  rooms.  Plants  used  singly  in  vases  in  different 
parts  of  the  rooms  must  have  vases  that  best  suit  the  plants.  For  instance, 
never  put  a  purple  Streptoearpus  in  a  blue  vase,  or  a  yellow  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  in  a  yellow-  vnso.  or  the  effect,  will  be  very  disagreeable.  When 
fireplaces  are  kept  filled  during  the  summer  months,  the  arrangement 
should  be  as  light  as  possible.  A  tall  Croton  with  several  branches  may¬ 
be  used  in  the  centre,  with  Bamboos  and  green  leaved  Dracaenas,  and 
Lilinms.  Spiraeas,  Vallotas,  Kalosanthes,  and  bright  scarlet  Pelargoniums 
to  brighten  the  whole. 
Cut  flowers  look  best  when  arranged  with  their  own  foliagp,  but  there 
are  exceptions,  such  as  Orchids,  Eucharis,  and  Pelargoniums,  where  no 
foliage-can  be  spared.  When  several  large  Japanese  Chrysanthemums 
are  cut  with  long  stems  and  put  in  tall  vases,  Nephrolepi*  exaltata  fronds 
add  greatly  to  their  beauty  :  other  greenerv  is,  of  course,  admissible,  and 
a  splendid  effpot  is  produced.  Maidenhair  fropds  are  a  useful  addition  to 
a  vase  of  Shirley  Poppies  :  but  with  Iceland  Poppies,  Aqtiilegia  foliage 
looks  more  natural  than  Fern.  Gypsophila  paniculata  and  ornamental 
Grasses  are  useful  adjuncts  to  many  flowers. 
Table  decorations  require  a  light  hand  and  an  artistic  eye  to  he  a 
success.  If  a  polished  table  and  slip  cloths  are  used,  tracing  desiens 
cannot  be  done,  hut  Smilax  may  he  hung  in  chains  from  the  lamp  shades 
or  candelabra,  and  a  little  can  be  put  on  the  ornamental  cloth  used  in 
the  centre  for  a  change.  Polished  tables  are  not  used  in  roanv  establish¬ 
ments  for  dining,  but  with  thp  flowers  in  glasses  well  arranged,  they  look 
very  elegant,  as.  when  looking  at  the  table  from  a  short  distance,  the 
portion  not  covered  looks  like  a  mirror.  When  a  white  cloth  covers  the 
whole  table,  manv  designs  can  be  traced  with  Fern,  Asparagus,  Box 
shoots,  bracken.  SGaginella,  and  Carrot  tops,  using  one  sort  of  tracing 
only  to  carry  out  the  design  chosen.  A  few-  flow  ers  of  a  corresponding 
colour  to  those  used  in  the  glasses  should  be  laid  singly  on  the  tracing  a 
few  inches  apart. 
Begonia  Glo’ro  de  Lorraine  when  grown  and  flowered  in  small 
60-pots,  makes  a  very  charming  table.  Sweet  Peas  in  mixed  colours 
look  well  either  for  a  luncheon  or  dinner  table  ;  especially  t  eautiful  and 
interesting  are  these  when  arranged  in  separate  colours  for  a  large  party, 
say  when  twenty-four  or  more  distinct  varieties  can  he  had.  Roses, 
Orchids,  Poinsettias.  Freesias.  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Shirley  and  Iceland 
Poppies,  and  Carnations  are  already  too  well  known  to  need  any  recom¬ 
mendation.  When  the  pink  Malmnison  is  used,  its  grand  proportions  and 
fragrance  make  a  choice  table.  Ixias  in  mixed  colours  are  beautifully 
light  and  graceful.  What  can  compare  with  a  large  vase  of  these,  well 
arranged,  and  cut  with  the  full  length  of  stem  ?  The  most  suitable  vase  for 
these  is  one  with  a  wide  mouth  and  narrow  neck.  Crimson  Rambler  Rose 
s  very  effective  by  lamp  light,  and  long  branches  arranged  loosely  in 
large  trumpet  shaped  vases  with  a  frond  or  two  of  dried  bracken  and  a 
long  trailing  piece  of  Asparagus  plumosus  nanus  twined  once  round  the 
narrow  stem  of  the  vase  and  reaching  its  base,  look  very  beautiful. 
I  have  bv  no  means  exhausted  the  many  and  various  ways  in  which 
flowers  can  be  arranged,  but  I  advise  every  beginner  to  arrange  all  cut 
flowers  as  loosely  and  yet  as  effectively  as  possible,  and  to  study  his 
employer’s  tastes,  which  will  be  found  to  vary  in  nearly  every  establish¬ 
ment. — Foreman  X. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Melons. — Stopping  and  Removing  Growths. — When  the  fruit  is  the  size  of 
an  egg  the  laterals  should  be  kept  pinched  to  one  leaf,  and  if  this  results 
in  too  much  foliagp,  so  that  the  main  leaves  are  crowded  or  shaded, 
thinning  must  be  resorted  to.  This  should  be  done  a  little  at  a  time,  for 
removing  a  large  quantity  of  foliage  at  once  gives  a  check  to  fruit  swell¬ 
ing.  The  plants  ought  to  be  gone  over  once  a  week  at  least,  and  in  the 
case  of  vigorous  plants  twice,  for  stepping  and  the  removal  of  superfluous 
shoots,  never  allowing  the  principal  leaves  to  be  crowded,  but  fully 
exposed  to  light  and  air. 
Watering. — Never  allow  the  plants  to  lack  water  at  the  roots,  for  when 
moisture  is  withheld  until  the  foliage  flags,  a  check  h-is  been  given.  The 
great  point  is  not  to  allow  flagging,  and  yet  not  give  water  until  the  soil 
is  becoming  so  diy  as  to  be  insufficiently  moist  for  the  support  of  the 
plants,  when  a  thorough  supply  should  be  given.  Plants  swelling  :hcir 
fruits  will  need  water  or  liquid  manure  at  least  once  a  week.  When 
setting  and  ripening  it  will  suffice  to  keep  the  foliage  from  flagging,  and 
if  watering  becomes  necessary  it  must  be  given  to  those  in  frames- 
without  wetting  the  foliage  more  than  can  be  helped. 
Syringing  the  Plants. — When  the  flowers  are  advanced  for  expansion 
withhold  water  from  the  foliage,  also  when  the  fruit  is  ripening,  as  this 
is  the  chief  cause  of  the  fruit  cracking.  At  the  time  of  setting  and 
ripening  in  frames  and  pits  the  atmosphere  cun  hardly  be  kept  too  dry  * 
in  houses  moisture  must  not  be  entirely  withheld  at  those  times,  but 
floors  and  walls  should  be  damped  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  in  bright 
weather.  When  the  fruit  is  swelling  syringe  well  at  closing  time,  and  if 
nn  rning  syringing  is  practised  it  should  be  done  early-.  Plants  in  frames 
may  be  sprinkled  at  closing  time  during  the  swelling  of  the  fruit,  but 
on  fine  days  only,  being  careful  to  keep  the  water  from  the  neck  or  collar 
of  the  plants. 
Ventilating.— During  the  setting  and  rip<ning[of  the  fruit  admit  air 
freely,  leaving  a  little  on  constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisturo 
on  the  -blossoms  or  fruit  through  the  n  ght.  Give  more  ventilation 
early  in  the  morning  of  bright  days,  always  when  the  temperature  has 
advanced  to  75°,  and  gradually  increase  it  with  the  advancing  heat, 
keeping  it  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°,  and  closing  sufficiently  early  to 
rise  90°,  95°,  or  100°,  and  before  nightfall  admit  a  chink  of  air  at  the  top 
of  the  house  or  the  back  of  the  frame.  This  is  particularly  necessary  in 
closely  titling  and  glazed  structures  ;  in  badly  constructed  houses  night 
ventilation  m-y  be  dispensed  with.  Recourse  will  only  need  to  be  had  to- 
tire  heat  in  houses,  and  to  linings  in  frames  in  dull  periods. 
Vines.  —  In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing — Where  very-  early  forcing  is 
intended,  the  canes  being  started  early  in  November  to  afford  ripe  Grapes 
during  March  or  April,  the  wood  should  be  thoroughly  ripened  and  the 
buds  plumped.  If  not  the  house  must  be  kept  rather  warmer  by-  day,  say 
70°  to  75°  artificially,  and  80°  to  85°  with  sun  heat,  closing  early  so  as  to 
raise  the  temperature  to  90°  or  95°,  and  throw  the  ventilators  open  at 
night.  Afford  water  or  liquid  manure  in  sufficient  quantity  to  prevent 
flagging,  and  expose  the  foliage  to  all  the  light  possible.  Laterals  must 
be  kept  well  in  check,  leaving  no  more  than  are  absolutely  necessary  to 
appropriate  any  excess  of  sap  and  so  prevent  the  principal  buds  being 
started.  When  the  wood  is  brown  and  hard  and  the  buds  are  prominent, 
the  Vine3  should  be  removed  to  a  situation  outdoors,  standing  the  pots  on 
slates  or  boards  in  front  of  a  south  wall  or  fence.-  Secure  the  canes  to 
avoid  damage  from  winds,  and  only  give  water  to  prevent  the  foliage 
falling  prematurely.  In  wet  weather  the  pots  may  be  laid  on  their  sides, 
or  some  waterproof  covering  be  employed  over  them.  When  the  main 
leaves  turn  yellow  commence  reducing  the  laterals,  and  prune  the  Vines 
when  the  leaves  are  alt  off,  the  laterals  being  cut  off  close  and  the  canes 
shortened  to  the  length  required.  This  done  place  them  in  a  cool,  airy, 
dry  place  until  required  for  forcing.  Keep  moderately  dry  at  the  roots 
and  exclude  frost. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — These  will  now  require  a  dry  atmo¬ 
sphere  to  thoroughly  ripen  the  w ood,  but  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  employ 
fire  heat.  All  laterals  and  late  growths  must  he  kept  stopped,  and 
complete  rest  afforded  by  having  the  house  cool  and  comparatively  dry. 
The  borders  inside  may  require  water,  but  if  they  have  been  mulched  it 
may  not  be  necessary.  A  too  moist  condition  of  the  border  tends  to  late 
growth,  hence  lights  over  outside  borders  are  serviceable  in  throwing  off 
heavy  rains.  This  is  absolutely  necessary  to  secure  complete  rest,  so 
essential  for  Viues  long  subjected  to  forcing.  A  too  moist  condition  of 
