August  3,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
97 
Cattleya  Harrisoni^e  alba. 
Although  there  were  considerable  numbers  of  Orchids  shown  at 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society’s  Gardens  at  Chiswick  on  the  occasion 
of  the  recent  Conference  on  Hybridisation  that  were  larger  and  very 
richly  coloured,  none  was  more  attractive  than  C.  Harrisonite  alba 
{fig.  22).  The  typical  variety  is  well  known  as  a  robust  free  flowering 
Orchid,  with  peculiarly  stout  rich  roso-coloured  flowers,  and  no 
further  description  of  the  new  one  is  required  beyond  the  fact  that  it 
is  a  true  albino.  It  was  exhibited  by  the  Rev.  Francis  Paynter, 
Stoke  Hill,  Guildford,  and  received  a  first-class  certificate  from  the 
Orchid  Committee. 
Mormodes  pardinum. 
M.  pardinum  is  an  Orchid  which  is  seldom  seen  in  collections, 
although  its  densely  spotted,  singular-looking  flowers  are  very 
attractive.  The  plant,  unfortunately,  is  of  a  deciduous  habit,  and 
does  best  in  moderate-sized  pans,  using  a  compost  of  about  two-thirds 
of  peat  to  one  of  moss.  Abundance  of  water  must  be  supplied  whilst 
in  active  growth,  after  which  it  must  be  gradually  withheld  until  the 
plants  become  quite  dry,  and  no  more  should  be  given,  or  at  least  only 
-enough  to  prevent  shrivelling,  till  they  recommence  growth.  The 
■flowers  are  borne  on  a  spike  18  inches  or  more  in  length,  and  are  of  a 
•clear  bright  yellow,  densely  spotted  with  rich  brownish  crimson. 
There  are  several  varieties  which  differ  only  in  colour  from  the  type, 
of  which  the  most  distinct  is  perhaps  the  pardinum  utr'color.  They 
■are  natives  of  Mexico,  and  do  well  in  the  cool  intermediate  house  with 
•such  plants  as  Cattleya  Mossiae  and  Mei.deli,  and  flower  at  the  present 
season. 
L^lio-Cattleya  Eximea. 
It  is  often  said  that  hybrid  Orchids  are  too  plentiful,  and  in  many 
-cases  it  would  perhaps  have  been  better  had  several  which  are  inferior 
to  their  parents  never  been  introduced.  This  is  not  the  case,  however, 
with  L.-C.  eximea,  which  was  raised  from  Lselia  purpurata  and 
Cattleya  Warneri  by  Mr.  Seden,  for  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  &  Sons.  A  plant 
under  my  charge  does  well  in  a  warm  Cattleya  house,  in  which 
Cattleya  gigas  thrives,  potted  in  the  compost  usually  recommended 
for  Cattleyas.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  of  a  pleasing  rosy  purple ; 
the  lip  resembles  in  form  Cattleya  Warneri.  The  colouring  varies  in 
•different  plants,  but  it  is  generally  intermediate  between  the  two 
parents,  and  usually  of  a  brilliant  rosy  purple  with  an  orange  yellow 
throat.  Unfortunately  the  plant  is  scarce. 
Cattleya  Eldorado. 
The  better  varieties  of  this  species  are  very  beautiful,  and  are 
valuable  additions  to  Orchid  collections.  It  is  now  fast  pushing  its 
spikes  when  the  other  Cattleyas  are  nearly  over,  and  by  its  aid  and 
Cattleya  gigas  we  are  enabled  to  make  a  respectable  show  until 
G.  aurea  and  C.  labiata  are  forthcoming.  The  flowers  seldom  exceed 
<5  inches  across,  and  vary  very  much  in  colour,  the  most  beautiful 
perhaps  being  C.  Eldorado  virginal)?,  which  is  an  albino  with  snow 
white  sepals,  petals,  and  lip,  and  a  bright  orange  throat.  C.  Eldorado 
•eplendens  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  coloured  forms,  and  is 
much  brighter  in  colour  than  the  type.  There  are  several  other 
varieties,  which  vary  only  slightly  in  colour  from  the  type,  and  which 
it  is  not  necessary  to  mention  here.  I  find  C.  Eldorado  does  well 
under  the  same  conditions  as  Cattleya  gigas,  although  not  being  such 
a  robust  grower.  The  water  supply,  whilst  in  active  growth,  must  be 
somewhat  les3 ;  the  plants  flower  much  more  freely  when  given  all  the 
light  possible. — J.  Barker,  Jlessle. 
Paphinia  cristata. 
In  this  singularly  pretty  little  plant  we  have  an  Orchid  that  may 
with  advantage  be  grown  by  anyone  having  sufficient  warmth  at 
command.  The  flowers  are  very  large  for  the  s:ze  of  the  plant,  and 
usually  occur  on  twin-flowered  spikes.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  really 
white  in  ground  colour,  but  so  closely  covered  with  chocolate  brown, 
that  this  colour  greatly  predominates.  The  lip  is  similar  in  colour, 
but  very  peculiarly  formed,  the  tuft  of  club  shaped  processes  near  the 
top  of  the  front  lobe  giving  it  a  very  distinct  appearance. 
P.  cristata  is  rather  more  difficult  to  grow  than  some  other 
kinds,  the  roots  being  very  susceptible  to  injury  if  the  compost  is 
allowed  to  get  the  least  stale  or  close.  For  this  reason  repotting  has  to 
take  place  oftener  than  is  to  their  advantage,  for  no  Orchid  likes 
frequent  disturbance.  The  very  best  materials  only  should  be  used  in 
its  culture,  care  in  the  selection  of  the  peat  being  especially  necessary.  1 
I  have  found  the  roots  like  a  small  percentage  of  loam  mixed  with  the 
peat  and  moss.  The  plants  are  best  kept  well  up  to  the  light,  but  the 
foliage  is  very  tender,  and  judicious  shading  is  required.  P.  cristata  is 
a  native  of  Trinidad,  whence  it  was  introduced  by  Mr.  Knight  of 
Chelsea  in  1836. — H.  R.  R. 
NOTES  ON  FIGS. 
When  the  second  crop  is  ga'hered  from  the  early-forced  trees  in 
pots  they  should  be  examined  for  red  spider  and  brown  scale,  and  now 
that  the  wood  is  firm  there  is  less  danger  of  injuring  the  foliage  than  at 
an  earlier  stage,  hence  an  insecticide  may  be  used  for  their  annihilation 
more  successfully.  Dissolve  10  ozs.  of  softsoap  in  half  a  gallon  of  water 
by  boiling,  and  add  to  it  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  fire  a  wineglassful  of 
paraffin  oil,  and  stir  briskly  till  thoroughly  amalgamated.  Dilute  to 
3  gallons  for  use,  adding  the  water  boiling,  and  when  cooled  to  130° 
apply  with  a  syringe,  the  plants  beirg  laid  on  their  sides  and  wetted' 
thoroughly  in  every  part,  turning  them  round  as  required.  If  the  wood 
is  badly  infested  with  scale  employ  a  somewhat  stiff  brush  to  dislodge  it 
whilst  wet.  Similar  means  may  be  used  with  the  leaves,  damaging  them 
as  little  as  possible.  In  bad  cases  repeat  the  trea*ment  in  a  day  or  two, 
afterwards  syringing  thoroughly  with  tepid  water. 
The  treo3  will  need  water  only  to  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp, 
ventilating  to  the  fullest  extent  day  and  night,  but  protect  from  heavy 
Fig.  22.- Cattleya  Harrisoni.e  alba. 
rain,  which  has  a  tendency  to  keep  the  trees  active  instead  of  inducing 
rest.  This  is  absolutely  necessary  for  trees  subjected  to  early  forcing. 
For  these  considerations  early-forced  trees  in  pots  should  not  be  placed 
outdoors  if  there  is  any  doubt  about  the  maturity  of  the  wood,  and  they 
cannot  have  complete  rest  if  the  weather  prove  wet.  If  placed  outdoors 
it  must  be  in  a  sunny  position,  and  the  pots  stood  on  rough  ashes,  with 
finer  about  them. 
Early-forced  planted  out  trees  will  need  enough  air  to  insure  a 
circulation  constantly.  If  dull  weather  prevail  gentle  heat  in  the  hot- 
water  pipes  will  favour  the  ripening  of  the  fruit,  which  is  insipid  or 
highly  flavoured  according  to  the  heat  and  the  air.  Diminish  the  water¬ 
ing  at  the  roots,  and  discontinue  syringing  directly  the  second  crop  fruit 
commences  ripening,  but  moderate  air  moisture  may  be  secured  by 
damping  the  floor  and  border  occasionally  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage. 
If  red  spider  give  trouble  heat  the  hot  water  pipes  to  170°  to  200°,  and 
paint  them  with  sulphur  brought  to  the  consistency  of  cream  with  skim 
milk,  having  the  house  closed,  and  keeping  the  pipes  hot  about  an  hour, 
then  allow  the  heat  'to  subside  to  the  ordinary  temperature.  Repeat  in 
the  course  of  a  few  days  to  destroy  any  pests  then  emerged  from  the 
eggs.  As  soon  as  the  fruit  is  gathered  cleanse  the  trees  thoroughly  with 
the  syringe  from  red  spider,  and  maintain  a  free  circulation  of  rather 
dry  warm  air  until  the  foliage  begins  to  fall  naturally,  but  it  must  not 
be  accelerated  by  allowing  the  soil  to  become  very  dry  at  the  roots  of 
the  trees. 
The  fruit  on  trees  in  unheated  houses  is  now  well  advanced  to 
maturity,  and  in  some  cases  ripening.  Where  it  is  swelling  no  pains 
