132 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  10.  1899 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Mushroom  Culture. 
( Concluded  Jrom  page  108.) 
The  spawn  cake9  may  be  broken  up  into  pieces  about  1J  inch  square, 
which  should  be  inserted  to  the  depth  of  2  inches,  and  about  8  inches  apart. 
If  the  spawn  is  good,  the  mycelium  is  easily  discernible  by  the  white 
thread-like  appearance  it  has  when  broken.  After  spawning,  the  bed  may 
have  2  inches  of  fresh  soil — loam  if  possible — put  over  it,  which  must  be 
made  him  and  level.  If  the  heat  of  the  bed  still  declines,  cover  with  mats. 
In  a  month  or  six  weeks  the  Mushrooms  will  appear,  and  strict  attention 
hereafter  should  be  given  to  the  temperature.  If  possible  admit  air,  but 
exclude  light  and  draughts.  The  floor  of  the  house  must  be  moistened  daily, 
remembering  always  that  a  close  atmosphere  is  the  cause  of  many  partial 
or  total  failures.  The  longer  the  bed  can  do  without  watering,  the  better 
the  results,  yet  drought  must  be  avoided. 
If  either  hay  or  straw  is  used  as  a  coveiing  for  the  beds  in  the 
Mushroom  house,  woodlice  may  be  troublesome,  and  must  be  rigorously 
destroyed,  as  they  breed  very  rapidly.  An  ideal  place  for  a  Mushroom 
house  is  at  the  back  of  a  high  wall  and  facing  north,  and  if  any  glass 
bouses  are  on  the  other  side,  a  hot-water  pipe  should  be  taken  through  into 
the  house,  to  heat,  it  in  cold  weather.  A  temperature  of  55°  is  suitable  for 
Mushroom  growing,  though  it  is  easy  to  grow  them  with  less  beat.  If 
Ivy  is  allowed  to  grow  over  the  house,  roof  included,  a  regular  temperature 
can  be  kept  at  all  times  of  the  year.  The  entrance  to  the  Mushroom 
house  should  be  from  the  inside  of  another  shed  if  possible,  and  if  the 
inside  floor  of  Mushroom  house  is  2  feet  below  the  ground  level,  beds  for  late 
crops  should  be  put  on  it,  and  the  first  or  early  beds  on  the  stage  above, 
presuming  there  is  one.  Excellent  crops  are  grown  in  cellars,  also  in 
ridges  outside. — FOREMAN  X. 
i®. 
O  WORK/01 
(THE  WEEK..  O 
HKmIi 
— 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Melons. — Late  Fruit. — If  Melons  are  required  very  late,  seeds  should 
now  be  sown.  Flants  from  this  sowing  will  be  fit  to  put  out  in  about  a 
month,  and  setting  their  fruit  in  September,  will  afford  Melons  from 
November  to  the  new  year.  This,  however,  can  only  bo  effected  in  a  light, 
airy,  well-heated  structure,  and  not  always  then,  for  Melons  abhor  the 
autumn  mists  and  fogs.  Bottom  heat  is  absolutely  necessary,  and  is  best 
furnished  by  hot  water  in  a  chamber,  as  fermenting  materials  induce  too 
much  vigour  in  the  plants,  and  decline  in  heat  when  most  is  required. 
Late  Summer  and  October  Melons. — To  insure  these,  the  plants  must 
be  placed  out  at  once,  giving  them  about  a  couple  of  barrowloads  each  of 
good  loam,  with  a  fifth  each  of  sweetened  horse  droppings  and  old  lime 
rubbish  intermixed.  Make  the  compost  very  firm,  and  have  it  in  a  moist 
state  before  planting.  Strong  plants,  watered  the  previous  night,  only  are 
suitable,  for  it  is  far  more  difficult  to  produce  late  than  early  Melons. 
Encourage  the  plants  to  make  free  growth  by  syringing  at  closing,  and 
damping  the  floors  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  evening  of  hot  days. 
Ventilate  between  70°  and  75°,  and  keep  the  temperature  at  those  figures 
through  the  day,  85°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  closing  so  as  to  raise  the  heat 
to  95°  or  100°,  allowing  it  to  fall  to  65°  through  the  night.  The  plants 
will  show  and  set  fruit  upon  the  first  laterals,  and  the  plants  being  almost 
at  fruiting  stage  when  put  out,  this  will  speedily  be  effected. 
Plants  Swelling  Their  Crops. — Overcropping  ruins  more  Melons  than 
anything  else,  therefore  reduce  the  fruits  when  fairly  swelling  to  two  on 
a  weakly  plant,  three  cn  one  moderately  vigorous,  four  on  a  strong,  and 
six  on  large  plants.  Overcrowding  prejudices  the  quality  of  the  fruit, 
which  requires  all  the  solidity  that  can  be  given  to  it,  and  to  effect  this 
the  growths  must  be  kept  fairly  thin,  all  having  exposure  to  light.  Stop 
the  laterals  to  one  joint,  and  prevent  overcrowding  by  thinning  them. 
Earth  up  the  plants  as  the  roots  protrude,  less  soil  being  needed  than 
earlier  in  the  season,  and  afford  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure. 
Syringe  from  8  to  4  P.M.  or  earlier,  and  then  raise  the  temperature  from 
sun  heat  to  95°  or  more.  With  due  supplies  of  w  ater  at  the  roots,  shading 
will  not  be  necessary,  or  only  after  dull  weather,  when  a  light  shading 
will  be  of  benefit  from  powerful  sun  until  the  plants  become  inured  to  it. 
Place  supports  to  the  fruits  in  good  time,  and  slanting  so  that  the  water 
may'  not  rest  upon  them. 
Fruit  Ripening. — A  dry  atmosphere  is  essential  to  secure  quality  and 
prevent  the  fruit  crucking.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly',  maintaining  a 
circulation  by  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes,  and  employing  enough 
artificial  heat  to  keep  the  temperature  at  70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing 
10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat,  and  to  prevent  it  falling  below  65°  at  night. 
Withhold  water  from  the  roots,  but  the  foliago  must  not  flag  or  the 
quality  of  the  fruit  will  be  seriously  deteriorated.  Where  there  is  fruit 
swelling  in  the  house  an  occasional  damping  will  be  necessary  for  the 
benefit  of  the  foliage,  and  it  will  not  affect  the  ripening  fruit  disastrously 
if  plenty  of  air  is  afforded. 
Late  Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames. — The  setting  of  the  fruit  should  now 
he  effected,  to  allow  time  f«r  its  sw  elling  and  ripening.  If  necessary 
give  a  good  watering  before  the  flowering,  open  and  line  the  sides  of  the 
frame  and  bed  with  hot  manure.  Give  a  little  ventilation  constantly  at 
the  top,  so  as  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  blossoms,  and 
continue  it  till  the  fruit  is  set  and  commences  swelling.  Impregnate  the 
pistillate  flowers  daily,  and  when  sufficient  fruits  are  obtained  remove  all 
flowers,  and  afterwards  keep  the  growths  well  stopped  and  fairly  thin,  s> 
that  they  may  have  plenty  of  air  and  light.  Maintain  a  moist  and  warm 
atmosphere  to  assist  the  swelling  of  the  fruit,  closing  early  with  sun  heat, 
and  sprinkling  the  plants  on  fine  afternoons.  Water  .will  be  required 
twice  a  week  in  bright  weather,  but  supply  it  sparingly  or  not  at  all  when 
dull,  and  admit  a  little  air  to  prevent  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  Ventilate 
early  on  fine  mornings,  and  maintain  a  temperature  ranging  from  S0°  to 
90°  through  the  day  from  s.un  heat.  If  sunny  weather  prevails,  and  the 
heat  is  properly  maintained  by  linings,  the  fruit  will  often  be  good  up  to 
November. 
Vines  .—  Early  Forced. — Although  the  Vines  have  the  w'ood  ripe  and 
some  of  the  foliage  is  falling,  there  must  not  bo  any  attempt  at 
removing  it  or  to  cut  the  laterals  close  in,  as  that  would  probably 
cause  the  principal  buds  to  start.  This  must  bo  prevented  by  removing 
the  laterals  by  degrees  and  shortening  some  of  the  long  shoots, 
reserving,  however,  some  growth  above  the  buds  to  which  the  N  ines 
are  to  be  pruned,  the  final  pruning  being  deferred  until  the  early  part 
of  September.  Where  the  Vines  are  not  satisfactory,  the  old  surface 
soil  should  be  removed  and  forked  from  amongst  the  roots,  raising  any 
that  are  deep  and  laying  them  in  fresh  material  near  the  surface. 
Good  calcareous  loam,  or  that  containing  a  rather  free  admixture  of 
small  stones  and  grit,  broken  up  roughly  and  well  firmed  about 
the  roots,  is  the  most  suitable  compost.  If  of  a  non-calcareous  nature 
add  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  if  heavy,  a  similar  proportion  of  open¬ 
ing  material,  such  as  freestone  chippings,  or  even  gravel  ;  and  if  light  and 
gravelly,  the  same  amount  of  clayey  marl  dried  and  pounded.  Crushed 
or  half-inch  bones  may  be  used  discriminately — say,  a  bushel  to  a  cartload 
of  loam,  and  a  similar  proportion  of  “  inch  ”  charcoal.  Where  the  loam 
is  very  turfy  add  7  lbs.  of  kainit,  and  14  lbs.  of  basic  slag  phosphate  to 
each  cartload  of  loam.  Give  a  moderate  watering  and  the  roots  will  push, 
especially  adventitious  ones,  from  near  the  collar,  into  the  new  soil  at 
once,  and  the  Vines  will  start  freely  when  the  time  arrives  for  doing  so. 
If  the  drainage  is  defective  and  the  whole  of  the  soil  has  to  be  removed, 
perform  the  lifting  expeditiously,  and  it  the  Vines  are  weak  it  is  desirable 
to  give  a  season’s  rest  or  crop  very  moderately. 
Midseason  Houses. — The  Grapes  colour  rapidly  during  bright  weather, 
and  though  not  so  large  in  berry  they  are  of  high  quality.  Red  spider 
has  been  very  troublesome  in  some  cases,  but  upon  the  whole  Vines  have 
flourished  with  the  extra  heat  and  light,  especially  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
which  has  the  Grapes  better  ripened  and  coloured  than  usual.  Where 
the  fruits  are  ripe  it  will  be  necessary  to  employ  a  slight  shade  over  the 
roof-lights  to  prevent  black  Grapes  losing  colour,  and  Buckland  Sweet¬ 
water,  Foster’s  Seedling,  and  similar  varieties  from  having  the  berries 
browned.  A  double  thickness  of  herring  nets  over  the  roof-lights,  and 
some  hexagon  netting  over  the  ventilators  to  exclude  wasps  and  flies, 
will  insure  the  Grapes  keeping  in  good  condition  for  a  considerable  time. 
Where  the  Grapes  are  ripening  copious  supplies  of  water  will  be 
necessary  ;  even  outside  borders  may  need  applications,  and  the  borders 
can  be  mulched  with  an  inch  or  two  of  short  material.  If  liquid  manure 
is  given  it  must  be  of  a  sustaining  nature,  and  moderate  air-moisture 
will  be  necessary  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage.  This  can  be  accorded  by 
damping  the  paths  and  borders  occasionally,  and  will  not  do  any  harm  to 
the  Grapes,  provided  the  ventilation  is  free  and  a  circulation  of  air 
insured  at  night.  A  little  fire  heat  will  be  advisable  in  case  of  dull  and 
damp  weather  prevailing,  but  it  need  not  be  more  than  to  secure  70°  to 
75°  by  daj-,  and  60°  to  <j'5°  at  night,  and  admit  of  a  circulation  of  air 
constantly,  as  it  is  stagnant  air  that  conduces  to  spotting  and  cracking  in 
the  berries.  Allow  a  fair  spread  of  foliage  over  black  Grapes,  but  keep 
that  of  the  white  varieties  rather  thin,  not  permitting  crowding  in  either 
case. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Celery.— -After  being  planted  a  few  weeks  Celery  is  liable  to  open  out 
considerably,  and  the  stalks  to  split  when  made  to  assume  an  upright 
position.  To  prevent  this  the  plants  should  be  early  cleared  of  small 
lower  leaves,  sucker  growths,  and  weeds  ;  and  after  receiving  a  good 
watering  have  about  2  inches  of  fine  soil  placed  about  them,  to  keep  the 
stalks  upright.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  bury  the  hearts,  or  to  press 
the  stalks  too  closely  together.  As  the  heart  advances  more  fine  soil 
may  be  packed  about  the  stalks.  The  Celery  ought  to  be  ready  for  use 
three  weeks  after  the  final  addition  of  soil.  Celery  required  for  exhibition 
is  usually  bandaged  with  brown  paper  prior  to  moulding. 
Watering  Celery. — When  these  notes  were  penned  large  stocks  of  Celery 
were  still  unplanted,  as  it  is  useless  putting  them  out  in  hot  dry  weather 
unless  they  can  be  kept  constantly  moist  at  the  roots.  Enough  water 
must  be  applied  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  soil  and  manure  in  tho 
trenches,  which  are  crowded  with  hungry  roots.  Nor  ought  watering  to 
cease  directly  the  plants  are  partially  earthed,  as  they  require  water  or 
liquid  manure  nearly  as  often  afterwards.  The  old-fashioned  plan  of 
fixing  small  drain  pipes  upright  at  short  distances  apart  between  the 
plants  is  a  good  one,  as  it  admits  of  water  or  liquid  manure  being  freely 
applied,  with  the  certainty  that  it  will  reach  the  roots  and  not  touch  the 
hearts  of  the  plants. 
Beans. — Kidney  or  Dwarf  French  Beans  have  cropped  remarkably 
well  this  season,  in  marked  contrast  to  the  Scarlet  Runners,  nor  will  they 
fail  very  quickly  if  the  pods  are  gathered,  whether  wanted  for  use  or  not, 
as  fast  as  they  are  fit.  Maturing  seed  puts  the  greatest  strain  on  the 
