August  24,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
177 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Fines. — Potting  Rooted  Suckers. — When  the  suckers  obtained  from  the 
fruiting  plants  are  ready  for  repotting,  it  is  well  to  divide  the  plants  into 
two  sets.  The  strongest  should  he  put  in  10  or  11-inch  pots  as  soon 
as  they  are  well  rooted,  affording  them  a  position  near  the  glass  in  a  light 
airy  house.  The  plants  so  treated  w  11  produce  a  good  successional  supply 
of  fruit  in  late  summer  or  early  autumn  next  year.  The  other  plants, 
suckers  from  the  summer  fruiters,  winter  best  in  7  or  8-inch  pots,  trans¬ 
ferring  them  to  larger  ones  in  the  spring,  which  with  suckers  ot  Smooth¬ 
leaved  Cayenne  that  were  started  last  month  will  produce  a  successional 
supply  of  Pines  thvough  the  winter  mouths. 
Re-arranging  the  Plants. — The  plants  not  fruiting  will  have  completed 
their  growths,  and  should  have  air  liberally  for  the  next  six  weeks  when 
the  temperature  exceeds  80°.  All  well -rooted  plants  require  a  bottom 
heat  of  80°  to  85°,  but  recently  potted  suckers,  or  those  not  having  the 
roots  well  established  in  the  fresh  compost,  should  have  the  bottom  heat 
■maintained  at  90°. 
Fruiting  Plants. — Moderate  atmospheric  moisture  will  be  necessary 
for  those  swelling  their  fruit,  admitting  a  little  air  early  in  the  morning, 
so  as  to  allow  of  any  superfluous  moisture  escaping  before  the  sun’s 
rays  act  powerfully  upon  the  fruit  Any  fruit  it  is  desired  to  retard 
should  be  moved  to  a  rather  cool  or  shady  house,  affording  an  abundance 
of  air. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — The  runners  that  were  layered  into  the  fruiting 
pots  will  now  be  well  rooted,  and  being  detached  from  the  parent  plants 
can  be  stood  in  a  sheltered  position  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  affording  each 
plant  due  space.  Any  plants  layered  into  small  pots  or  on  turves  should 
be  potted  into  the  fruiting  pots  without  delay.  Placed  in  5  or  6-inch  pots, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  plants,  they  will  fill  them  with  roots  before 
the  winter,  and  though  not  so  largo  as  those  potted  earlier,  will  give  some 
good  fruit,  if  they  are  not  started  before  February.  Plants  potted  some 
time  ago,  and  those  layered  into  the  fruiting  pots,  should  be  examined, 
and  if  making  side  bud«  these  ought  to  be  removed  with  a  pointed  piece 
of  hard  wood,  so  as  to  throw  the  vigour  into  the  central  crown  or  bud. 
Vigorous  plants  will  not  require  liquid  manure,  but  weakly  ones  may  be 
supplied  with  it  twice  a  week.  All  runners  must  be  removed  as  they 
appear,  also  weeds.  If  the  surface  of  the  soil  becomes  hard  loosen  it, 
especially  at  the  sides  of  the  pots,  so  as  to  insure  the  thorough  moistening 
of  the  ball.  As  the  plants  grow  set  the  pots  farther  apart,  so  as  to  expose 
the  foliage  to  light. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — The  canes  intended  for  starting 
early  in  November  should  now  be  completely  at  rest,  the  wood  thoroughly 
ripe,  the  laterals  cut  close  back,  and  the  canes  shortened  to  about  6  feet, 
more  or  less,  according  to  the  length  required  for  the  position  they  are 
to  occupy  and  the  situation  of  the  plump  eyes.  If  the  Vines  are  kept 
rather  dry  at  the  roots  it  reduces  the  tendency  to  bleeding,  or  the  cuts 
may  be  carefully  dressed  with  styptic  or  knotting.  Do  not,  however, 
allow  the  soil  to  become  dust  dry,  for  this  causes  the  roots  to  shrivel, 
whilst  a  very  wet  condition  may  induce  the  decay  of  the  fibre.  Keep 
the  Vines  in  a  cool  airy  house.  Later  Vines  in  pots  may  be  placed  out¬ 
doors  to  harden  the  growth  and  induce  rest,  the  south  side  of  a  wall 
being  preferable.  If  the  Vines  have  to  be  bought  they  should  now  be 
ordered.  The  best  for  early  forcing  are  Early  Smyrna  or  White 
Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh  and  Madresfield  Court. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Those  started  from  December  to 
January  should  be  pruned  early  in  September  or  before.  It  is  not  neces¬ 
sary  to  wait  until  all  the  leaves  are  down  if  the  Vines  are  going  to  rest, 
the  wood  brown  and  hard,  and  the  leaves  turning  yellow.  The  pruning 
will  cause  the  Vines  to  rest  'more  quickly  and  thoroughly.  When  the 
leaves  are  off  thoroughly  cleanse  the  house  and  dress  the  Vines  with  a 
solution  of  caustic  Boda  and  commercial  potash,  1  oz.  each  to  a  gallon  of 
hot  water,  and  apply  at  a  temperature  of  135°  with  a  brush,  not  lavishly, 
but  just  moistening  every  part  of  the  rods  after  removing  the  loose  bark. 
The  solution  acts  well  against  both  fungi  and  insects.  Clear  away  the 
old  mulching  material  and  the  loose  surface  soil  from  the  border,  then 
supply  a  top-dressing  of  fresh  turfy  loam,  and  sprinkle  on  it  a  good 
handful  per  square  yard  of  some  approved  chemical  fertiliser. 
Weakly  Vines,  or  those  in  an  unsatisfactory  state,  will  be  improved 
by  removing  the  soil  down  to  the  roots,  and  supplying  fresh  turfy  loam, 
with  an  admixture  of  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  one-twelfth  of  wood 
ashes,  and  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal  (1  per  cent.),  lifting  any  convenient 
roots,  and  laying  them  in  fresh  material  within  6  inches  of  the  surface. 
Late  Grapes. — Continue  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  by 
day,  with  80°  to  85°  from  sun,  until  the  Grapes  are  perfectly  ripe,  venti¬ 
lating  freely’,  and  keeping  lateral  growths  closely’  pinched,  a  warm 
atmosphere,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  being  essential  to  thorough 
ripening.  Laterals  allowed  to  grow  only  excite  root  action,  and  this 
encourages  late  growth.  In  most  cases  Vines  do  not  require  much  water 
after  colouring  commences,  as  it  is  then  a  question  of  transference  and 
appropriation  of  matter  already  acquired  :  still  water  is  needed,  and  must 
be  supplied  as  required  to  the  border. 
Young  Vines,— -These  generally  make  a  strong  growth,  and  are  con¬ 
sequently  late  in  ripening.  Assist  such  with  fire  heat,  maintaining  a 
minimum  temperature  of  65°,  and  a  maximum  of  75°  from  fire  heat, 
running  up  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  accompanying  the  artificial  heat 
with  a  little  top  and  bottom  ventilation,  so  as  to  insure  a  circulation, 
increasing  it  proportionately  with  the  sun  heat.  Laterals  also  should  be 
kept  well  in  hand,  not,  however,  pinching  them  so  close  as  to  start  the 
principal  buds. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Cabbage. — If  the  earliest  raised  plants  are  thick  in  the  beds,  thin 
early  and  freely,  pricking  the  thinnings  into  nursery  beds  of  fine  soil, 
watering  and  shading  if  necessary.  Successful  market  growers  system¬ 
atically  prick  out  all  their  plants  that  are  to  stand  through  the  winter, 
moving  them  a  second  time  having  the  effect  of  keeping  them  sturdy,  a 
rapid  autumn  growth  rendering  Cabbage  more  susceptible  of  injury  from 
frosts.  In  private  gardens,  where  far  less  manure  is  dug-in,  and  in 
particular  where  Winter  Cabbage  (moved  direct  from  the  seed  beds) 
follows  spring-sown  Onions,  without  digging  or  otherwise  preparing  the 
ground  beyond  hoeing  and  cleaning,  there  is  less  likelihood  of  the  plants 
making  much  progress  above  ground  before  midwinter,  and  a  service¬ 
able  crop  usually  results.  More  Cabbage  seed  may  yet  be  sown  broadcast 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain  all  the  winter. 
Winter  Green  Vegetables. — Comparatively  little  planting  of  Borecole, 
Broccoli,  and  Savoys  has  yet  been  done,  and  many  of  those  planted  have 
come  to  a  standstill.  Nor  have  frequent  waterings  greatly  improved 
matters,  the  plants  being  badly  infested  by  aphides  and  fleas.  This  points 
to  a  scarcity  of  green  vegetables  next  winter  and  spring,  which  will 
amount  to  a  certainty  if  wintry  weather  set  in  early.  All  that  are  avail¬ 
able  should  be  planted  out  on  the  first  favourable  opportunity.  Legginess 
ought  to  be  no  bar  to  this  late  planting.  Instead,  however,  of  sinking  the 
stems  to  their  full  depth,  form  sloping  trenches  as  the  ground  is  dug.  In 
these  the  plants  should  be  laid  with  their  tops  just  above  ground.  A  little 
manure  may  be  distributed  about  the  roots,  some  soil  placed  on  this, 
making  it  firm  with  the  foot,  and  if  the  ground  is  dry,  a  good  watering 
given  before  more  soil  is  thrown  over  it  and  a  fresh  trench  for  the  next 
row  is  made.  Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts,  sprouting  and  other  Broccoli, 
and  Savoys  may  all  be  planted  more  thickly  than  usual,  as  they  will  not 
attain  to  a  great  size. 
Sowing  Brussels  Sprouts. — Those  with  the  convenience  of  warm  houses 
and  frames  can  raise  all  the  Brussels  Sprouts  plants  they  require  in 
February  and  March,  but  where  large  numbers  of  plants  are  required 
and  facilities  for  raising  them  under  glass  are  limited,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
sow  seed  in  the  open  and  treat  the  plants  similarly  to  late  raised  Cabbage. 
They  will  prove  quite  as  hardy.  Sprouting  Broccoli  should  also  be  raised 
in  the  autumn.  If  either  these  or  the  Brussels  Sprouts  are  somewhat 
thick  in  the  seed  beds,  prick  out  a  portion  of  them  4  inches  apart  each 
way. 
Sowing  Lettuce. — Since  the  introduction  of  extra  quick  hearting  Cab¬ 
bage  Lettuces  there  is  less  need  to  take  so  much  trouble  in  wintering  a 
number  of  hardv  varieties.  Now,  however,  is  a  good  time  to  sow  seed  of 
Blaek-=eeded  Brown  Cos,  Hicks  Hardy  Green  Cos,  Hammersmith  Green, 
and  All  the  Year  Round  Cabbage  Lettuces  with  a  view  to  having 
abundance  for  hearting-in  next  spring.  Prepare  moderately  large  seed 
beds,  a  border  sheltered  from  the  coldest  winds  answering  best.  Water 
if  dry,  and  then  sow  the  seed  thinly  broadcast,  covering  with  half  an  inch 
of  sifted  soil. 
Spinach. — The  earliest  sowings  of  Winter  Spinach  are  not  a  success, 
the  plants  coming  up  in  patches,  the  rest  of  the  seed  not  having  had 
enough  moisture  to  induce  germination.  At  the  samo  time  it  is  the  early 
plants  that  usually  prove  the  most  productive  of  large  leaves,  and  unless 
the  rows  are  very  scanty  it  is  advisable  to  leave  what  plants  there  are  and 
sow  more  seed  in  drills  drawn  where  the  blanks  occur.  The  thinning  of 
plants  ought  as  yet  to  be  light,  as  there  may  be  losses  to  deplore.  In 
showery  w'eather  sow  soot  among  the  rows,  and  stir  it  in  with  Dutch  ' 
,  hoes,  this  having  a  deterrent  effect  upon  slugs  and  grubs  and  hastening 
the  growth  of  the  pluntfe.  .  .  ' 1  . .  J  '  * 
Tomatoes. — Tomatoes  are  ripening  early  on  plants  against  walls  and 
quite  in  the  open.  Birds  have  suddenly  acquired  a  taste  for  them. 
Gathering  the  fruit  when  only  about  half  ripe  militates  against  good 
quality,  but  has  to  be  done  this  season.  When  sho-wery  weather  sets  in 
the  more  advanced  fruit  will  crack  badly,  and  the  best  preventive  of  this 
is  also  early  gathering,  ripening  the  fruit  in  a  warm  dry  room.  Large 
quantities  should  be  laid  in  thin  heaps  and  covered  with  paper,  this 
saving  the  footstalks  somewhat,  and  promoting  even  colouring.  Trimming 
off  all  the  lower  leaves,  so  as  to  leave  little  else  but  stalks  and  fruit, 
is  a  great  mistake.  It  completely  stops  the  swelling  of  the  later  fruit, 
and  the  rest  are  lighter,  softer,  and  poorer  in  quality  than  those  more 
naturally  treated.  All  side  or  superfluous  shoots  ought  to  be  removed 
whenever  they  assert  themselves,  and  the  plants  early  topped  beyond  the 
third  or  fourth  bunch  of  flower,  while  the  older  leaves  overharging  the 
most  forward  fruit  should  be  reduced  to  about  half  their  original  size,  so 
as  to  admit  more  sun. 
Gaura  Lindheimeri. — ThU  is  a  fine  herbaceous  plant,  and 
useful  in  that  it  keeps  up  a  display  of  its  pretty  bright  blossoms  over 
a  very  long  season.  After  the  flowers  on  the  upper  part  of  the  spikes 
ere  over  numerous  other  short  spikes  appear  below.  The  colour  of  the 
flower  is  a  pale  rose,  the  contour  of  the  spikes  a  little  like  that  of  the 
Fraxinella.  G.  Lindheimeri  delight  in  a  rich  deep  root-run,  but  the 
soil  must  not  be  heavy  or  cold.  Light  porous  loam  that  does  not  crack 
badly  in  hot  summer  weather  suits  it  best.  The  plant  is  most  easily 
propagated  by  seeds,  is  a  native  of  Texas,  and  quite  hardy, — C.  H, 
