186 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  31,  1899. 
COMTESSE  DE  NADAILLAC. 
The  flowers  of  this  lovely  Rose  seem  to  want  heat  to  bring  out 
their  beautiful  colouring,  and  the  second  crop  of  flowers  now  open 
are  far  brighter  in  tint  than  were  those  of  the  first.  The  deep 
apricot  shading  at  the  base  of  the  petals  is  quite  distinct  from  that  of 
any  other  variety,  while  the  shape  of  these  second  flowers  is  exquisite. 
They  are  naturally  not  so  full  as  the  early  ones,  but  much  as  this 
may  detract  irom  the  flowers  for  exhibition  purposes,  it  adds  to  their 
beauty.  Comtesse  de  Nadaillac  may  be  selected  as  one  of  the  very 
finest  Teas,  and  when  established  and  only  lightly  pruned,  it  is  very 
free  flowering. — H.  R.  R. 
Rosa  Wichuriana. 
This  Japanese  Rose  is  essentially  a  procumbent  or  creeping  plant, 
suitable  for  clothing  sunny  banks  or  mounds  where  a  quick-growing 
plant  is  required.  It  grows  with  great  rapidity  in  any  fairly  good  soil, 
and  will  soon  cover  a  large  space  of  ground,  throwing  out  shoots  which 
attain  to  a  length  of  15  to  20  feet  in  a  season.  The  flowers  open  in 
August  and  September,  are  pure  white  and  sweetly  scented,  and, 
though  individually  only  a  little  over  an  inch  across,  are  produced  in 
such  quantities  as  to  render  the  plant  extremely  attractive.  The 
blossoms  have  a  splendid  setting  in  the  small  dark-green  foliage,  which 
is  perhaps  the  most  glossy  of  any  hardy  plant,  shining  as  it  newly 
varnished. 
R.  Wichuriana  succeeds  best  in  a  sunny  position,  but  it  should  not 
suffer  from  lack  of  moisture  at  any  time.  As  far  as  insect  pests  are 
concerned,  it  may  occasionally  have  a  little  green  fly  on,  but  seldom 
enough  to  disfigure  it,  and  it  never  suffers  from  the  attacks  of  mildew. 
It  requires  very  little  pruning ;  small  or  weakly  shoots  should  be 
thinned  out  in  the  winter,  but  none  must  be  shortened  back. 
It  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  or  layers,  the  latter  for  pre¬ 
ference,  as  shoots  may  often  be  found  that  have  commenced  to  root, 
more  especially  in  moist  places.  In  America  it  is  commonly  cal'ed  the 
u  Memorial  Rose,”  from  the  fact  of  its  being  largely  used  for  planting 
on  graves. — C. 
Plants  in  Pots. 
Roses  are  generally  admitted  to  be  the  most  beautiful  flow-ering 
shrubs  of  our  gardens,  and  for  a  number  of  years  both  in  England  and 
on  the  Continent  they  have  occupied  a  large  share  of  attention.  Who 
is  there  that  will  come  forward  and  deny  that  they  have  not  a  slight 
weakness,  if  I  may  term  it  so,  for  Roses  ?  At  ?ll  times  Roses  are 
strikingly  beautiful,  but  more  particularly  so  during  the  spring  and 
early  summer  months,  and  they  are  especially  valuable  for  the 
ornamentation  of  the  conservatory,  and  I  know  of  no  more  pleasing 
sight  than  that  of  a  house  furnished  with  well-grown  specimens  bearing 
luxuriant  foliage  and  well-formed  flowers.  So  well  do  they  harmonise 
and  associate  with  other  spring  plants  that  it  is  of  their  culture  in 
pots  for  this  purpose,  as  well  as  for  exhibition,  that  I  describe  the 
method  that  I  have  adopted  with  a  fair  amount  of  success.  Creditable 
specimens  may  be  grown  by  any  enthusiast,  even  if  only  the  con¬ 
venience  of  a  cold  pit  is  afforded. 
Almost  every  Rose,  whether  Hybrid  Perpetual,  H.  China,  or  Tea, 
does  well  under  pot  culture  ;  and  those  who  wish  to  procure  a  collection 
in  the  shortest  space  of  time  would  do  well  to  go  to  some  nursery  where 
this  favourite  is  made  a  specialty,  and  select  as  many  plants  as  means 
or  convenience  will  admit.  Now  and  during  September  will  be  a  very 
good  time  to  select  well-established  plants  in  6  or  8-inch  pots,  and  such 
may  be  purchased  at  reasonable  prices. 
As  soon  as  possible  after  receiving  them  from  the  nursery  examine 
the  roots,  fur  it  may  be  found  that  many  of  them  will  be  benefited  by 
a  shift  into  10-inch  pots.  This  operation  will  also  enable  one  to 
ascertain  whether  the  drainage  is  in  good  order  or  not — a  point  that  is 
most  essential,  for  the  Rose  is  very  impatient  of  stagnant  water  at  the 
roots.  The  following  soil  will  be  lound  suitable  to  them  : — Good  strong, 
turfy  loam,  the  top  spit  from  an  old  pasture  three  parts,  the  other  part 
of  well-decomposed  cow  manure,  or  sheep  droppings  if  they  can  be 
procured  ;  a  little  leaf  mould  and  a  sprinkling  of  bone  dust  may  be 
added  with  advantage.  Chop  and  mix  the  compost  well  together 
and  pot  firmly,  taking  care  that  the  plants  are  moist  at  the  rcots 
before  potting.  After  potting  place  the  plants  in  a  cold  frame, 
admitting  plenty  of  air  by  tilting  the  lights,  and  on  all  favourable 
occasions  draw  them  entirely  off.  It  is  not  wrarmth  that  is  required, 
but  a  palace  of  shelter  from  the  heavy  autumnal  rains  and  very  severe 
frosts.  In  these  quarters  the  plants  may  remain  until  they  are 
started  into  growth. 
It  takes,  as  a  rule,  from  eight  to  eleven  or  twelve  weeks  to  bring 
Roses  in  full  bloom  from  the  time  they  are  started  :  and  if  wanted  to 
bloom  during  May,  which  is  the  month  in  which  pot  Roses  are  usually 
exhibited,  the  first  week  in  March  will  be  found  early  enough  to 
start  them.  Soon  after  the  +urn  of  the  new  year,  say  early  in  January, 
prune  away  all  weak  or  watery-growing  shoots,  and  shorten  the 
points  of  all  the  shoots,  mote  especially  such  as  are  not  well  ripened; 
it  is  not,  however,  necessary  to  prune  as  hard  as  one  would  for  a  plant 
growing  out  of  doors. 
Have  a  ball  of  cord  or  some  other  tyiDg  material  in  readiness  for 
training  the  plants.  Begin  by  placing  a  string  around  the  rim  of  each 
pot,  then  bring  gently  down  the  point  of  each  shoot  to  the  string; 
this  to  he  continued  until  all  the  branches  or  twigs  are  bent  back,  so 
that  they  may  be  likened  to  an  umbrella  turned  inside  out.  This 
severe  training  or  bringing  down  of  the  branches  is  indispensable,  as  it 
regulates  the  sap  and  causes  each  shoot  to  break  right  back,  which 
otherwise  would  not  be  the  case.  By  thus  training  a  foundation  is 
laid  for  good  plants  in  future  years,  and  the  foliage  is  made  to  cover 
the  rims  of  the  pots.  This  operation  must  be  done  very  gently,  as  too 
great  a  strain  is  apt  to  break  the  shoots. 
If  plants  are  not  wanted  to  bloom  until  May  they  can  be  started 
about  the  first  week  in  March  in  a  cold  pit  or  in  a  house  set  apart 
for  them,  and  must  be  encouraged  into  growth  by  keeping  close, 
and  syringing  two  or  three  times  a  day  with  tepid  water.  If  rain 
water  is  not  procurable,  always  place  some  pots  of  water  in  the 
sun  to  prevent  that  sediment  which  is  so  often  found  on  the  foliage  of 
plants  after  using  hard  water.  Keep  the  plants  as  near  to  the  glass 
as  possible,  and  close  until  the  buds  begin  to  burst  strongly.  As  the 
buds  begin  to  gain  strength  air  must  be  given  as  weather  permits. 
This  simple  work  requires  more  than  ordinary  caution,  as  cold  currents 
must  be  carefully  avoided,  and  often  during  March  we  have  strong 
bursts  of  sunshine  with  keen  cutting  winds.  The  young  and 
tender  foliage  is  unable  to  bear  these  cold  draughts,  which  are  the 
cause,  in  my  opinion,  of  the  mildew.  This  pest  must  be  kept  in  check 
by  dusting  with  sulphur  on  its  first  appearance,  or  it  will  possibly 
spread  ail  over  the  plants;  so  again  1  say,  carefully  avoid  all  cold 
currents,  and  close  early  to  husband  the  natural  heat.  In  the  morning 
you  will  be  rewarded  bv  finding  the  edges  of  the  leaves  covered  with 
beads  of  dew7,  and  the  plants  bearing  a  fresh  and  thriving  appearance. 
When  growth  has  commenced  the  anxious  grower  will  have  to 
keep  more  than  an  ordinary  look  out  for  that  worst  of  all  pests  to  the 
rosarian,  the  Rose  maggot,  which  coils  itself  in  the  half-expanded 
leaves,  and  if  not  detected  drills  its  way  into  the  hearts  of  the  flower 
buds,  which  have  to  be  picked  off;  besides,  the  foliage  will  present  a 
riddled  and  unsightly  appearance.  Wherever  a  curl  appears  there  the 
enemy  will  be  found  lurking,  and  a  simple  pressure  between  the  fore¬ 
finger  and  thumb  will  soon  settle  him.  Green  fly  will  also  be  found 
to  put  in  an  appearance  at  this  stage,  and  the  syringe  or  a  smoking  or 
two  with  tobacco  must  be  resorted  to.  I  have  invariably  found  as  the 
plants  gained  strength  that  a  good  wash  at  times  from  a  tolerably 
coarse  rose  watering  can  was  more  effectual  than  syringing. — Rosarian. 
(To  be  continued.) 
POINTS  IN  THE  PARKS. 
The  month  of  August  is  usually  considered  the  best  period  for  visiting 
the  London  parks,  at  least  to  the  enthusiastic  gardener  bent  on  acquiring 
the  latest  idea  in  summer  planting,  or  bedding  as  it  is  more  commonly 
called.  And  where  could  one  find  such  summer  bedding,  as  the  public  of 
London,  aye  and  the  country  too,  enjoy  1 
It  was  on  a  close  sultry  day  that  I  started  on  my  rounds,  reaching 
Battersea  Park  somewhat  early.  It  is  well  known  that  here  one  sees  sub¬ 
tropical  bedding  to  perfection,  and  this  year  the  capable  superintendent, 
Mr.  F.  J.  Coppin,  fully7  maintains  the  best  traditions  of  the  park. 
I  have,  however,  no  intention  of  giving  a  general  description  of  each 
park,  but  rather  to  select  a  few  of  the  most  attractive  beds.  A  large 
circular  bed  first  secured  my  notice.  It  was  filled  with  large  Ivv-leaved 
Pelargoniums  in  a  variety  of  colours,  in  full  beauty,  with  tall  standard 
Fuchsias  as  “  dot”  plants  towards  the  centre;  dark  Heliotropes  formed 
abroad  hand,  while  the  edging  consisted  of  dark  Alternanthera.  In  another 
bed  dwarf  Lantanas  at  once  arrested  my  attention  ;  the  bright  colours, 
combined  with  the  dark  green  healthy  foliage,  stamps  it  as  a  most  effec¬ 
tive  plant  for  this  purpose.  The  groundwork  and  edging  were  dark  blue 
Lobelia,  This  is  a  bed  that  might  well  be  imitated  to  good  purpose. 
A  bed  after  Battersea’s  own  heart  next  warrants  notice,  in  which 
carpet  bedding  plays  an  effective  part.  Tab  plants  of  Cordyline 
australis,  with  specimen  plants  of  Asplenium  bulbiferum  and  bright 
Coleuses  formed  the  top  ot  the  bed  as  it  were,  while  beautifully  coloured 
Aealyphas  were  dotted  here  and  there.  The  groundwork  was  tilled 
in  with  a  raised  carpet  design,  which  did  not  remind  one  of  the  Brussels 
carpet  at  home.  Another  happy  combination  was  formed  by  a  bed  of 
Pandanus  Veitchi,  with  Aealyphas  and  various  succulents  worked  in 
bet  ween,  while  the  carpet  flooring  gave  just  sufficient  colour  to  the  idea. 
Zea  japonica  variegata  contributed  to  another  bed  a  capital  effect. 
The  plants  were  tall  yet  well  coloured.  Large  Heliotropes  assisted  with 
their  delicate  colour,  while  silver  edged  Pelargoniums  and  blue  Lobelia 
