200 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  31,  1899. 
and  being  black  with  brown  spots  is  of  good  appearance.  Of  other 
Plums  for  dessert  Early  Favourite  ripens  as  soon  as  any,  followed 
by  De  Montfort,  Jefferson,  Kirke’s,  Coe’s  Golden  Drop,  and  Iekworth 
Imp^ratrice,  so  that  with  a  judicious  selection  choice  fruit  can  be  bad 
from  trees  in  a  cool  house  from  July  to  November  inclusive.  The 
following  are  also  good  ror  dessert  or  culinary  when  grown  under  glass — 
Czar,  Belgian  Purple,  Sultan,  Denbigh,  Victoria,  Italian  Prune,  Prince 
Engelbert,  Washington,  Monarch,  Imperial  de  Milan,  Blue  Impe'ratrice, 
and  Grand  Duke.  All  may  be  grown  as  cordons,  planting  the  trees  about 
2  feet  apart,  and  training  the  stems  about  1  foot  from  the  glass.  If  the 
trees  are  fan-trained  t°wer  varieties  will  be  required.  Denniston’s 
Superb.  Brahy’s  Green  Gage,  Jefferson.  Transparent  Gage,  Kirke’s,  and 
Coe’s  Golden  Drop  cannot  well  be  excelled  for  affording  a  succession  of 
choice  fruit. 
Soil. 
Whether  the  trees  are  planted  out  or  grown  in  pots  the}-  require  a 
rather  stiff  soil.  Good  calcareous  strong  loam  interspersed  with  small 
stones  or  flints  needs  no  admixture  for  borders.  Efficient  drainage, 
consisting  of  3-inch  drains  to  carry  off  superfluous  water,  1  foot  depth  of 
rubble,  preferably  brickbats  with  a  3-inch  top  layer  of  old  mortar  rubbish, 
and  18  to  24  irches  depth  of  soil  are  necessary  for  borders.  For  pots  or 
restricted  borders  a  fourth  part  of  well-decayed  manure  to  three  of  stiff 
maiden  loam,  with  a  9-inch  potfu!  of  bonemeal  and  a  quart  of  soot  added 
to  every  3  bushels  of  compost,  are  suitable.  If  the  soil  is  deficient  of 
grit  and  lime  add  a  fifth  part  of  sifted  old  mortar  rubbish,  and  if  turfy 
use  Thomas’s  phosphate  instead  of  bone  dust.  The  pots  should  be  drained 
thoroughly  with  crocks  or  oystershells.  Make  the  soil  firm  and  allow 
sufficient  space  for  holding  water.  Planting  or  potting  is  best  done 
Immediately  the  leaves  have  fallen.  Potted  trees  ought  to  be  plunged 
in  ashes,  and  it  is  desirable  to  allow  them  to  make  a  year's  growth  out¬ 
doors  before  they  are  placed  under  glass  for  fruiting.  When  trees  two 
or  three  years  from  the  bud  or  grait,  and  especially  in  pots,  can  be  had, 
it  is  better  to  purchase  such  than  to  rear  them,  and  being  furnished  with 
blossom  buds  a  cron  of  fruit  may  be  had  the  first  year. 
General  Treatment. 
If  the  trees  are  placed  outdoors  each  w  inter  (after  the  fruit  is  gathered 
in  the  case  of  early  varieties),  they  should  be  returned  to  the  house  before 
the  buds  are  so  far  advanced  as  to  show  colour,  allowing  plenty  of  room 
for  the  development  of  the  growth,  and  standing  each  pot  on  two  or  more 
bricks  on  the  fiat  a  little  distance  asunder,  so  that  the  roots  will  not  pass 
into  the  soil,  whilst  insuring  a  free  passage  for  the  water.  Such  trees 
can  be  moved  at  any  time  without  prejudice  to  the  growth.  When  the 
trees  are  kept  under  elass  constantly  the  vent’lators  should  be  wide  open 
during  the  winter  whenever  the  temperature  is  above  freezing  point,  but 
when  frost  prevails  the}’  ought  to  be  kept  closed.  The  trees  also  should 
be  placed  close  together,  so  that  they  can  be  protected  from  frost  by  a 
covering  of  dry  hay  or  straw  between  and  over  the  pots,  standing  them 
apart  in  the  spring.  Similar  remarks  apply  to  planted-out  trees  in  respect 
of  ventilation  under  fixed  roofs  in  winter,  but  the  better  plan  is  to  remove 
the  roof-lights  when  the  leaves  have  fallen  and  keep  them  off  until  the 
spring. 
Under  the  circumstances  indicated  the  trees  will  start  naturally  in  the 
spring,  and  from  this  time  forward  a  circulation  of  air,  except  in  severe 
weather,  should  always  be  maintained  by  leaving  the  ventilators  open 
more  or  less  day  and  night.  Abundat>ce  of  air  and  a  dry  atmosphere 
is  the  only  way  to  secure  a  proper  set  of  fruit.  By  the  time  the  truits 
are  set  and  swelling  the  sun  will  have  considerable  power,  and  may  be 
taken  advantage  of  to  accelerate  the  growth  by  reducing  the  ventilation 
in  the  afternoon,  yet  leaving  some,  airing  eaUy  each  morning,  and  when 
the  wind  is  sharp  and  cold  ventilate  on  that  side  opposite  its  direction. 
In  the  summer  the  ventilators  should  be  kept  constantly  open. — A. 
(To  be  continued.) 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Early  Grapes. 
Houses  that  are  intended  to  produce  ripo  fruit  by  the  latter  end  of 
April  or  the  beginning  of  May,  should  be  started  about  the  middle  of 
November,  and  all  necessary  work  must  be  done  prior  to  the  time 
stated,  such  as  pruning,  painting  the  rods  with  Gishurst  compound, 
washing  the  glass  and  woodwork,  top-dressing  the  borders  if  required.  In 
pruning  cut  the  growths  back  to  two  eyes,  after  which  apply  some  styptic 
or  knotting  to  the  wounds  to  prevent  the  rods  from  bleeding  when  started. 
Some  prefer  peeling  and  scraping  off  every  particle  of  old  bark  from  the 
rods,  but  I  am  of  opinion  it  does  great  injury.  If  the  borders  require  a 
top-dressing,  remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  taking  great  care 
not  to  break  any  ;  and  if  dry,  apply  water,  after  which  dress  with  a 
mixture  of  good  maiden  loam  and  old  mortar  nibble,  using  four  parts  of 
the  former  to  one  of  the  latter  ;  do  not  add  it  too  heavily,  and  make  it 
fairly  firm.  I  may  say  that  if  the  loam  is  heavy,  a  little  spent  Mushroom 
refuse  may  be  added. 
When  the  time  has  arrived  for  starting  the  house,  afford  a  temperature 
of  40°  to  45°  at  night,  45°  to  50°  by  day  artificially,  with  a  rise  of  5°  from 
sun  heat.  S  ringe  the  rods  lightly  with  warm  soft  water  on  bright  days 
in  the  morning  when  the  thermometer  has  reached  55°,  also  at  mid-day  : 
but  in  dull  weather,  damping  the  path  and  border  will  be  sufficient.  About 
a  fortnight  from  the  time  the  house  was  started,  raise  the  temperature  5° 
both  for  night  and  day,  and  charge  the  evaporating  troughs  with  weak 
liquid  cow  manure.  Great  care  must  be  taken  in  ventilating  ;  do  not 
admit  any  air  until  the  house  has  a  temperature  of  55°,  closing  again  at 
mid-day,  allowing  a  rise  of  10°  from  sun  heat. 
Protect  the  outside  border,  if  any,  from  frost,  snow,  and  rains,  covering 
it  with  straw  or  leaves  not  too  thickly,  otherwise  it  will  ferment,  which 
will  do  the  Vines  injury  :  piece  wooden  shutters  or  strips  of  galvanised 
irou  on  the  top  of  it.  Examine  the  borders  occasionally  to  see  if  they 
require  water  ;  if  so,  apply  it  forthwith,  for  if  permitted  to  become  dry  it 
will  cause  a  serious  check,  but  on  no  account  overdo  it  and  make  the 
borders  sodden. 
When  the  buds  are  swelling  raise  the  temperatuie  again  5°  both  night 
and  day.  but  do  not  allow  the  pipes  at  any  time  to  become  burning  hot, 
or  red  spider  will  be  encouraged.  Remove  all  surplus  growths  when  they 
are  large  enough  to  handle.  Discontinue  syringing  when  the  growths  are 
about  la  inch  in  length,  but  well  damp  the  border  and  paths  mornings  and 
afternoons  onbright  days.  If  some  weak  liquid  cow  manure  is  thrown  down 
at  closing  time  it  will  provo  very  beneficial  to  the  young  growths. — P.  R. 
(To  be  continued.) 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Feeding  Fruit  Trees — Trees  that  are  well  cropped  with  fruit  that  is 
wanted  to  develop  to  a  large  size  must  have  some  extra  assistance  to 
enable  them  to  do  this  satisfactorily  without  imposing  too  heavy  a  strain 
upon  them.  Fruit  trees  often  languish  and  become  enfeebled,  not  always 
from  the  lack  of  food  in  the  soil,  but  from  the  absence  of  moisture  to 
make  the  food  elements  in  the  soil  available  for  the  roots.  This,  then,  is 
the  first  thing  to  eons  der  when  the  development  of  the  crop  does  not 
proceed  as  it  ought.  A  copious  supply  of  clear  water  will  stimulate  the 
trees  cansiderably,  and  enable  the  roots  to  absorb  a  richer  food,  which 
may  be  given  in  the  shape  of  liquid  manure,  consisting  of  sewage,  stable 
and  farmyard  drainings,  or  top-dressings  of  artificial  manure  watered  in.. 
In  dry  hot  weather  a  mulching  of  manure  should  follow  a  good  watering, 
if  not  previously  applied.  It  serves  to  prevent  rapid  evaporation,  and 
maintains  moisture  equably  about  the  roots. 
Trees  in  a  weakly  condition  making  little  growth,  and  of  course 
bearing  no  fruit,  are  frequently  stimulated  into  vigour  by  judiciously 
applying  liquid  or  artificial  manure.  Superphosphate,  3  ozs.  to  the  square 
yard,  will  stimulate  roots  ;  and  sulphate  of  ammonia,  ^  oz.  to  the  square 
yard,  is  good. 
Thinning  Orchard  Trees. — The  best  way  of  maintaining  old  standard 
orchard  trees  in  fruitful  condition  is  never  to  allow  the  branches  te 
become  crowded,  or  interlace  and  cross  one  another  Where  this  is 
found  to  be  the  case  the  present  is  a  good  time  to  go  over  the  trees  and 
remove  superfluous  branches.  This  may  be  partly  effected  even  if  a  crop 
of  fruit  is  present,  as  the  portions  to  be  removed  are  invariably  in  the 
centre  of  the  trees,  and  do  not  usually  produce  fruit  owing  to  growing  in 
a  position  where  sun  and  air  cannot  reach  sufficiently  well  to  ripen  fruit 
buds.  Young  orchard  trees  in  the  course  of  formation  may  be  thinned 
and  regulated  now  with  advantage. 
Crowded  Wall  Trees. — Pears,  Plums,  and  Cherries  of  the  sweet 
section  are  frequently  trained  upon  walls  with  more  branches  than  can  be 
properly  accommodated.  As  a  rule,  they  ought  to  be  a  foot  apart. 
When  at  a  less  distance  theie  is  not  enough  space  to  allow  of  their 
enlargement  and  the  development  of  the  spurs,  which  in  time  become 
rather  elongated.  Spurs,  too.  on  the  branches  ought  to  be  reduced  in 
number,  thinned  out,  and  shortened  back,  so  that  the  foliage  of  one  clump 
does  not  shade  that  of  othera.  Planting  trees  closely  results  in  branches 
ot  adjoining  trees  meeting  too  soon.  The  space  could  be  better  utilised 
by  planting  and  encouraging  the  extension  of  a  less  number  of  trees. 
Strawberries. — Preparing  Ground  for  Planting. — The  long  continued 
drought  has  delayed  the  planting  of  Strawberries  in  many  districts,  but 
to  secure  a  crop  next  year  from  plants  placed  out  this  season,  there 
should  be  no  further  delay.  The  ground  must  be  deeply  dug,  double 
digging  or  trenching  being  preferable,  and  in  the  process  work  in  manure 
of  a  decai  ed  character  freely.  After  the  digging  the  ground  should  be 
trodden  down  firmly,  especially  if  light.  Strawberries  like  firm  rich 
ground,  and  w  hen  it  is  made  compact  moisture  escapes  less  by  evapora¬ 
tion,  which  is  important  during  the  continuance  of  dry  weather 
immediately  after  planting.  It  is  only  when  the  surface  is  dry  that 
treading  the  soil  should  be  d^ne. 
Planting. — The  absence  of  moisture  in  the  soil  renders  the  work  of 
planting  more  difficult,  and  in  order  that  success  may  follow,  the  young 
plants  ought  to  be  well  moistened  before  lifting  them  from  the  ground 
where  they  have  rooted.  Lift  a  few  at  a  time,  and  plant  quickly  in  drills 
previously  well  watered.  Work  a  little  soil  over  the  roots,  and  afford  a 
copious  watering  to  each  plant.  Finish  with  a  layer  of  dry  soil,  which 
acts  as  a  mulch  to  retain  the  moisture.  A  slight  depression  round  each 
plant  maj’  be  left  for  a  time,  so  that  waterings  can  be  given  to  assist 
establishment.  The  rows  ought  not  to  he  less  than  2  feet  apart,  and  the 
plants  18  inches  asunder  in  the  rows. 
