August  31,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
201 
Gathering  Early  Apples  and  Pears. — As  these  approach  the  ripening 
stage  they  ought  to  be  carefully  picked  arid  placed  in  a  cool  room.  Most 
early  Pears,  such  os  Williams’  Bon  Chretien,  Citron  des  Cannes,  Souvenir 
du  Congres,  and  Jargonelle  are  better  for  gathering  before  they  become 
fully  ripe.  As  soon  as  the  fruits  will  leave  the  spurs  when  raised  to  a 
horizontal  position  they  may  be  gathered.  All  the  fruits  on  a  tree  will 
not  be  ready  at  one  time,  so  frequent  gatherings  may  be  made.  If  the 
fruits  remain  too  long  on  the  trees  they  are  mealy.  If  picked  too  early 
they  shrivel  in  the  store.  Apples  ought  to  remain  on  the  trees  until  they 
change  colour  for  ripening,  as  they  are  liable  to  shrivel  when  gathered 
too  soon,  and  especially  if  stored  in  a  warm  room. 
Collecting  Fallen  Fruit. — When  fruit  falls  from  the  trees  before  it  is 
■nearly  rfpe,  it  is  owing,  in  most  cases,  to  the  presence  of  a  maggot  in  the 
fruit.  These  are  the  caterpillars  of  the  codlin  moth  which  eat  their  way 
to  the  centre  of  the  fruits  of  both  Apples  and  Pears,  also  Plums.  The 
codlin  moth  is  most  destructive  to  the  Apple,  and  causes  fruit  to  tall  in 
•quantit}’.  All  these  fiuits  should  be  gathered  and  destroyed,  or  given 
to  pigs.  Pears  do  not  fall  so  much,  though  the  caterpillars  attack  them. 
Plums  do  not  fall  until  the  fruit  is  quite  ripe.  Those  that  do  fall  are  sure 
to  be  attacked,  and  many  remaining  on  the  trees  may  be  sure  to  have  the 
maggot  in  the  centre  if  a  small  hole  is  found  in  the  fruit.  Gather  infested 
fruits  as  soon  as  possible. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Earlier  closing  and  syringing  is  necessitated  by  the 
shorter  days,  it  being  desirable  to  husband  the  sun  heat  and  have  the 
foliage  fairly  dry  before  dusk.  Employ  fire  heat  to  maintain  a  tempera¬ 
ture  of  70°  to  75°  by  day  and  to  secure  65°  at  night.  Keep  the  shoots 
thin,  remove  old  growths  to  make  room  for  young  ones,  and  so  as  to 
secure  a  succession  of  bearing  wood.  Stop  young  shoots  a  joint  beyond 
the  fruit.  Encourage  root  action  by  a  steady  bottom  heat  of  80’, 
surface  dressings  of  lumpy  loam  and  sweetened  horse  droppings,  and 
afford  tepid  liquid  manure  whenever  water  is  required.  Do  not  allow 
the  fruit  to  hang  after  it  becomes  fit  for  use,  and  avoid  overcropping. 
Autumn  Fruiting  Plants. — Stop  the  growths  so  as  to  secure  an  even 
spread  of  bearing  wood.  Remove  the  staminate  blossoms  and  tendrils, 
also  the  first  fruits,  or  crop  lightly.  No  shading  will  now  be  necessary. 
"Cease  syringing  the  plants  in  the  morning,  and  only  practise  it  lightly  on 
bright  afternoons,  keeping  the  house  damped  as  occasion  requires. 
Admit  air  early  but  moderately,  avoiding  draughts,  for  chills  stunt  the 
growths,  and  a  confined  atmosphere  causes  the  foliage  to  become  thin  and 
Habby.  Endeavour  to  secure  a  stuidy  growth  whilst  opportunity  offers 
by  early  and  judicious  ventilation. 
Winter  Fruiters. — The  plants  from  seed  sown  early  in  August  are  now 
fit  to  place  in  their  fruiting  quarters.  The  house  must  be  a  light  one, 
have  a  south  aspect,  and  means  of  securing  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70° 
•in  all  weathers.  A  bottom  heat  of  80’  to  90°  is  also  necessary.  All  soil 
•previously  used  must  bo  cleared  out,  and  the  whole  ~f  the  interior  of 
the  house  scalded,  if  possible,  with  hot  water,  washing  the  woodwork  with 
carbolic  soap,  water,  and  a  brush,  making  the  glass  cleaD,  and  lime¬ 
washing  the  walls.  Where  rubble  is  used  over  and  about  the  hot- 
water  pipes  for  bottom  heat,  see  that  it  is  clean,  if  not  take  it  out 
and  cleanse  it  by  washing.  Secure  the  drainage  with  a  layer  of 
turves  slightly  charred,  grass  side  downwards.  Place  in  hillocks 
or  ridges  of  soil  of  about  2  feet  base,  10  to  12  inches  in  depth,  and  I  foot 
across  at  top.  Use  turfy  loam  of  medium  texture  two-thirds,  fibrous 
sandy  peat  one-third,  rejecting  any  woody  matter  ;  old  mortar  rubbish 
freed  of  laths  or  pieces  of  wood,  with  the  rough  broken  small,  one-sixth, 
and  “nuts”  charcoal  one-twelfth,  the  whole  well  incorporated. 
This  material  is  suitable  for  plants  in  beds,  pots  or  boxes,  and  should 
be  made  moderately  firm.  Pots  or  boxes  must  be  well  drained,  and  only 
so  far  filled  with  soil  that  when  the  plants  are  introduced  their  seed  leaves 
will  be  about  level  with  the  rims  of  the  pots,  and  as  they  will  have 
some  stem  below  the  seed  leaves  which  will  admit  of  earthing  as  the 
plants  increase  in  growth.  Very  serviceable  fruits  can  be  had  from 
■plants  in  pots  or  boxes  in  houses  with  a  stove  temperature.  Plant  when 
the  soil  is  warmed  through,  press  it  gently,  and  secure  the  plants  to 
stakes  reaching  to  the  trellis.  Rub  off  the  laterals  to  that  height,  and 
stop  the  leading  shoot  at  about  the  second  or  third  wire  of  the  trellis. 
’Shade  from  bright  sun  until  established.  Syringe  lightly  in  the  early  after¬ 
noon,  damp  the  house  in  the  morning,  noon,  and  afternoon.  Maintain  a 
day  temperature  of  70°  to  75°,  rising  10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat,  and  a 
night  temperature  of  70°,  falling  5°  through  the  night.  The  plants  will 
give  fruit  in  the  late  autumn,  but  they  must  not  be  cropped  much  if  they 
are  to  produce  fruit  from  Christmas  to  spring.  Seed  may  now  be  sown 
for  raising  plants  to  give  a  supply  of  fruit  about  Christmas  and  onwards. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. —  Earliest  Forced  Tree i. — These  are  assumed 
to  consist  of  very  early  varieties,  which  were  started  from  December  1st 
to  the  new  year.  The  trees  are  now  shedding  their  leaves,  and  if  infested 
with  red  spider  or  brown  scale  they  may  he  syringed  with  water  at  a 
temperature  of  140°.  Hot  water  is  one  of  the  best  means  of  destroying 
these  and  other  insects,  also  low  forms  of  vegetable  parasites.  It  must 
not,  however,  be  used  injudiciously  ;  if  too  hot  it  will  injure  the  young 
wood  and  buds,  and  if  lower  in  temperature  it  is  innocuous  as  regards 
scale,  also  red  spider,  now  about  to  hybernate. 
The  trees  should  be  loosened  from  the  trellis  and  tied  in  bundles  to 
facilitate  cleansing  operations,  then  wash  the  woodwork  with  soap  and  a 
T>rush,  also  the  ironwork,  reaching  every  angle  and  crevice.  Limewash 
the  walls,  and  it  required  paint  the  wood  and  ironwork.  Pruning  will 
consist  of  thinning  the  shoots  where  crowded,  or  too  weak  for  carrying 
fine  fruits,  no  shortening  being  necessary  except  for  shoots  unduly  long, 
or  for  the  production  of  growths  for  extension.  The  trees  may  be 
washed  with  an  insecticide,  oeing  careful  not  to  dislocate  the  buds.  Tie 
the  trees  to  the  trellis  loosely,  leaving  sufficient  room  for  the  swelling  of 
the  branches  and  shoots.  Remove  the  loose  surface  soil  down  to  the 
roots,  and  supply  a  top-dressing  of  rather  strong  loam,  with  a  fourth  of 
well-decayed  manure  admixed,  and  afterwards  sprinkle  a  handful  (about 
4  ozs.)  over  a  square  yard  of  the  following  mixture  Bonemeal  (steamed) 
three  parts,  and  two  parts  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia, 
leaving  it  there,  or  merely  scratching  in  with  a  fork.  If  the  lights  have 
been  removed  they  need  not  be  replaced  until  the  weather  becomes 
colder,  and  the  borders  have  been  thoroughly  moistened  by  the  autumn 
rains. 
Succession  Houses. — Any  trees  that  have  a  tendency  to  over-luxuriance 
should,  as  soon  as  the  wood  gets  sufficiently  matured,  have  a  trench  taken 
out  about  one-third  the  distance  from  the  stem  the  trees  cover  in  extent  of 
trellis  and  quite  down  to  the  drainage,  so  as  to  detach  all  roots,  and  this 
may  be  left  open  for  a  fortnight  ami  then  be  filled  in  firmly  ;  or  when  the 
leaves  give  indications  of  falling  the  soil  may  be  removed  down  to  the 
roots  with  a  fork  and  picked  from  amongst  them,  laying  the  roots  in 
fresh  compost,  and  making  quite  firm.  Good  turfy  loam,  rather  stiff,  with 
about  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  form  a  suitable  compost.  A  watering 
being  given  the  roots  will  soon  work  freely  in  the  fresh  material,  and  the 
fruits  will  invariably  set  and  stone  well  afterwards.  The  above  plan  is 
more  especially  necessary  for  young  trees,  the  taking  out  of  the  trench 
being  very  effectual  in  assisting  them  t'  ripen  the  wood  thoroughly. 
Lifting  and  root-pruning  generally  should  be  deferred  until  the  leaves 
give  indications  of  falling,  for  if  practised  too  early  there  is  danger  of 
causing  the  sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage,  and  the  shrivelling  of  the 
wood. 
Late  Houses. — The  bright  weather  has  greatly  assisted  late  Peaches 
and  Nectarines,  whtch  are  not  only  earlier  in  ripening  than  usual,  but 
something  wonderful  iu  size  and  beauty,  and  where  proper  supplies  of 
water  and  nutriment  have  been  provided  during  growth,  the  fruits  are 
singularly  juicy  and  high-flavoured.  Late  Peaches  will,  no  doubt,  be 
scarce  this  year,  through  ripening  being  accelerated  by  the  hot  summer, 
and  the  wood  is  more  advanced  in  ripening  than  in  ordinary  seasons.  A 
free  circulation  of  air  and  supplies  of  water  are  necessary,  but  a  rather 
drier  condition  at  the  roots  is  desirable  when  the  fruit  is  ripening.  Keep 
the  growths  thin,  stop  any  growing  shoots  to  about  15  inches,  and  all 
laterals  closely  to  one  joint  as  growth  is  made. 
tr '  P 
—  ■  — 1*1-  *— L -.-C—  -la  -T-i  -  T-  i  -1  .  ■  -  I  - 
0,^1 
Jill. 
HE)  BEE-KEEPER. 
el  us  ! 
_  i 
Utilising  Brood  from  Skeps. 
Owing  to  the  high  temperature  prevailing  throughout  the  country 
there  is  now  more  brood  in  the  hives  than  is  usually  found  at  this 
season.  This  is  an  advantage  if  the  stock  is  well  supplied  with  stores, 
as  the  bees  hatched  during  early  autumn  will  live  until  the  following 
spring,  when  young  bees  will  take  their  place.  Bearing  this  fact  in 
mind  it  shows  the  advantage  of  securing  as  many  young  bees  as 
possible  before  the  cold  weather  sets  in,  as  the  old  bees  will  now  die 
off  at  a  rapid  rate  after  the  hard  work  of  the  past  two  months. 
When  driviug  bees  from  skeps  or  boxes  we  always  make  it  a  rule 
to  cut  out  all  the  brood  instead  of  placing  it  with  the  combs  contain¬ 
ing  honey,  so  that  the  combs  may  be  melted  down  for  wax.  When 
treated  in  this  manner  the  brood  is  destroyed,  and  thus  many  valuable 
bees  are  lost.  If  the  brood  is  cut  out  as  each  slab  of  comb  is  lifted 
from  the  skep,  and  placed  in  an  empty  ,box  and  protected  from  robber 
bees,  it  will  not  suffer  although  allowed  to  remain  in  this  position  for 
several  hours.  It  will  save  much  trouble  afterwards  if  the  combs  are 
placed  in  the  box  in  the  same  position  they  occupied  in  the  skep,  as  if 
reversed  they  would  give  the  bees  much  unnecessary  trouble,  and 
would  not  be  a  success  owing  to  the  peculiar  shape  of  the  cells.  If 
the  combs  are  utilised  in  a  proper  manner  all  the  sealed  brood  and 
newly  laid  eggs  will  hatch  in  due  course,  and  add  greatly  to  the 
strength  of  the  colony  to  which  they  are  introduced. 
To  derive  full  benefit  from  spare  brood,  it  is  necessary  to  have 
frame  hives  which  may  be  used  for  the  driven  bees,  or  the  frames  in 
which  the  brood  has  been  placed  may  be  given  to  other  stocks  which 
from  various  causes  are  weak. 
Placing  the  Brood  in  Frames. 
One  of  the  many  advantages  of  having  spare  frames  is  the  ready- 
manner  in  which  they  may  be  used  by  placing  combs  containing 
brood  in  them,  and  if  the  hives  are  all  of  the  same  size,  it  is  a 
simple  matter  to  strengthen  any  that  are  weak.  The  plan  we  usually 
adopt  is  to  use  raffia  instead  of  tape,  which  is  often  recommended 
for  this  purposes.  Commence  by  laying  four  pieces  of  raffia  on  a 
table.  On  these  place  an  empty  frame.  The  comb  containing  the 
broad  should  then  be  placed  in  position,  and  if  they  have  been  cut 
out  square  from  the  skeps,  little  trouble  will  be  experienced  so 
long  as  the  combs  are  placed  in  the  same  position  they  occupied  in 
the  skep.  When  the  frame  is  tilled  with  sundry  pieces  of  comb, 
bring  the  two  ends  of  the  raffia  together  at  the  top  of  the  frame  and 
