September  14,  1S99. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
241 
Preparing  Ground  for  Planting  Fruit  Trees. — The  advantage  of  pre¬ 
paring  the  soil  early  in  the  autumn  for  fruit  trees  is  obvious  when  the 
time  for  planting  arrives.  There  is  no  delay  while  the  ground  is  being 
prepared,  but  every  favourable  opportunity  can  be  taken  to  plant  trees. 
Early  preparation  is  recommended,  chiefly  because  the  digging  and 
trenching  necessary  can  be  effectually  carried  out.  Deep  stirring  of  the 
soil  is  advisable,  but  it  is  net  desirable  that  the  subsoil  should  be  brought 
to  the  surface  and  the  best  soil  buried.  Except  to  the  very  poorest  soil 
manure  ought  not  to  be  applied,  for  it  causes  rank  and  luxuriant  growth. 
For  Raspberries  and  Blackberries  the  soil  may  be  made  both  deep  and 
T  ch. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — The  temperature  should  be  maintained  at  65°  by  night 
and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  a  rise  of  10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat.  Remove 
unhealthy  leaves  and  old  growths,  and  train  the  young  shoots  somewhat 
thinly,  pinching  them  at  a  joint  beyond  the  show  for  fruit.  Employ  the 
syringe  sparingly,  only  damping  the  foliage  on  bright  days  and  early  in 
the  afternoon,  so  that  it  may  become  dry  before  night.  Damping  the 
paths  and  wails  will  require  to  be  done  in  the  morning  and  again  in  the 
evening.  Pot  seedlings  as  they  become  read}-,  and  keep  them  near  the 
glass  to  insure  sturdy  growth,  pinching  out  the  growing  phntof  those 
required  for  covering  low  trellises  at  the  second  rough  leaf;  others  train 
with  a  single  stem,  securing  to  a  small  stick,  rubbing  off  the  laterals  to 
the  extent  of  the  stem  required  to  reach  the  trellis.  Be  sparing  with 
moisture  to  plants  in  pits  and  frames,  maintaining  the  temperature  by 
linings  renovated  as  required,  closing  early,  and  employing  a  covering  of 
mats  over  the  lights  on  cold  nights. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Early  Forced  Trees. — The  leaves  being  off, 
or  nearly  so,  complete  rest  should  be  aimed  at  by  keeping  the  ventilators 
open  constantly,  and  if  the  roof-lights  are  movable  they  may  be  with¬ 
drawn  for  a  time.  This  prevents  undue  excitement  of  the  buds,  and  has 
an  invigorating  tendency,  as  the  trees  get  thoroughly  cleansed  of  dirt, 
red  spider,  and  thrips  ;  and  frosts  prove  destructive  of  brown  scale,  while 
the  borders  become  thoroughly  moistened  by  the  autumn  rains.  If  the 
roof-lights  cannot  be  removed,  see  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of  moisture 
at  the  roots  of  the  trees,  for  though  the  impression  prevails  that  dryness 
accelerates  the  ripening  of  the  wood,  it  is  fatal  to  the  proper  formation 
of  the  buds,  and  often  gives  a  check,  causing  them  to  fall  later  on. 
The  soil  should  never  be  allowed  to  become  dry  at  any  time,  but  a 
lessened  supply  of  water  will  suffice  when  at  rest  than  during 
growth.  When  the  leaves  have  fallen  the  treeo  may  be  pruned.  Only 
the  strong  growths  that  have  not  the  points  well  matured  need  be  cut 
back. 
In  all  cases  be  careful  to  shorten  to  a  wood  bud,  not  being  deceived 
by  a  double  or  triple  bud,  as  these  are  all  sometimes  blossom  buds, 
especially  on  trees  of  a  floriferous  habit,  induced  through  a  somewhat 
stunted  growth.  Where  ordinary  attention  has  been  given  to  dis¬ 
budding,  laying  in  no  more  wood  than  is  necessary  for  the  succeeding 
year’s  fruiting,  and  for  the  extension  of  the  trees,  also  removing 
fruited  and  other  unnecessary  parts  after  the  fruit  was  gathered,  very 
little  pruning  will  be  required.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  and  if 
the  trees  have  been  infested  with  red  spider  or  other  insect  pests  dress 
them  with  an  insecticide,  as  many,  especially  red  spider,  will  secrete  in 
the  rough  portions  of  the  bark  and  in  the  woodwork. 
If  the  trees  have  been  badly  infested  repeat  the  application  before 
they  are  secured  to  the  trellis.  Remove  the  mulching  or  loose  surface 
soil,  and  supply  fresh  loam,  having  a  handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser 
sprinkled  over  each  square  yard  of  surface.  This  will  be  washed  in 
either  by  rains  or  watering,  and  sustain  the  trees  at  blossoming  time 
and  the  early  stages  of  the  fruit  swelling.  Partial  lifting  of  weakly 
trees  will  be  necessary,  and  should  be  done  before  the  leaves  have 
fallen.  In  the  case  of  trees  that  do  not  ripen  the  wood  well  the  roots 
should  be  carefully  lifted  and  relaid  in  fresh  soil  near  the  surface.  If  the 
drainage  be  defective  it  should  be  rectified,  and  where  the  trees  are 
altogether  unsatisfactory  lift  bodily  and  replant  in  properly  prepared 
borders. 
Surcessional  Howes.—  In  those  where  the  crops  were  ripened  in 
June  the  lea<es  will  be  cast,  and  the  trees  and  houses  should  be  treated 
similarly  to  those  earliest  forced.  Trees  that  ripened  their  crops  in  July 
and  August  will  now  have  the  buds  plumped,  and,  the  wood  being  ripe, 
the  roof-lights  may,  if  movable,  be  removed  as  60on  as  the  leaves  give 
indications  of  falling,  or  towards  the  close  of  the  month.  If  the  wood 
does  not  ripen  well  keep  the  house  rather  close  by  day  when  there  is 
sud,  and  open  the  ventilators  fully  at  night.  Any  weakly  trees  that  do 
not  plump  the  buds  may  be  assisted  with  weak  liquid  manure  Trees 
from  which  the  fruit  has  recently  been  gathered  should  not  be  neglected 
for  removing  the  bearing  wood  of  the  current  season,  ventilating  freely, 
watering  mside  borders,  all  outside  ones  as  may  be  necessary,  and  occa¬ 
sionally  syringing  the  trees  and  applying  an  insecticide,  as  insects  must 
not  be  allowed  to  obtain  and  retain  a  hold  on  the  trees. 
Late  Houses. — Trees  swelling  their  fruit  will  need  the  borders  moist 
and  mulched,  and  those  with  the  roots  in  outside  borders  must  not  be 
neglected  if  dry  weather  prevail,  and  if  carrying  heavy  crops  liquid  manure 
may  be  given  until  the  fruit  commences  to  soften.  When  all  the  fruit 
has  been  gathered  remove  the  shoots,  not  being  extensions,  that  have 
carried  the  crop,  and  if  the  wood  is  not  in  a  satisfactory  condition  as  to 
ripening  gentle  fire  heat  with  a  circulation  of  air  will  be  advisable, 
especially  in  the  case  of  late  varieties.  The  midseason  varieties  will 
ripen  the  wood  if  the  autumn  be  favourable,  but  if  cold  and  wet  the  trees 
are  benefited  by  gentle  warmth  and  a  free  circulation  of  air.  This  is 
necessary  in  cold  localities,  particularly  with  the  very  late  varieties. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — The  plants  are  making  good  progress,  the 
earliest  having  the  crowns  sufficiently  plumped  for  the  detection  of  those 
that  will  i  ot  be  available  for  early  forcing.  Those  for  this  purpose 
should  be  separated  from  the  rest  and  given  sufficient  space  for  the  foliage 
in  the  most  favourable  position — a  sunny  sheltered  one — for  maturing  the 
growths.  The  others  also  must  have  the  pots  wide  enough  apart  to 
allow  of  the  sun  and  air  having  free  access  to  the  foliage.  The  crowns 
in  some  cases  are  numerous,  and  should  be  reduced  to  the  central  one  or 
two  where  large  fruits  ara  desired,  not  deferring  it  until  they  have 
attained  to  a  considerable  size,  but  be  attended  to  as  soon  as  they  can  be 
detected,  and  removed  sideways  with  a  bluntly  pointed  piece  of  hardwood 
stick.  This  will  concentrate  the  vigour  in  the  main  crowns  ;  those  will 
afford  strong  Hower  spikes,  and  then  by  selecting  the  largest  and  best 
formed  flowers,  and  carefully  fertilising  them  at  the  proper  time,  a  crop 
of  large,  shapely  fruits  will  be  insured.  Any  late  runners  may  yet  be 
potted,  and  with  good  attention  they  will  be  serviceable  for  late  work 
in  5-inch  pots,  and  may  afford  fine  fruit,  and  collectively  as  full  a  crop 
as  those  in  larger  pots.  Worms  and  weeds  are  troublesome,  also  runners. 
Lime  water  will  expel  worms,  and  weeds  and  ruDners  can  be  promptly 
removed. 
m-T - 7—1 - ,  |  .  ■  |  t  .  T  .  ,  .  ,  -  |  ■  ..  |  .  r~T  - 
US 
If* 
-IE  BEE-KEEPER. 
Making  Syrup. 
Syrut  for  autumn  feeding  should  be  made  as  thick  as  possible. 
If  made  thin,  such  as  is  recommended  for  spring  feeding,  much 
useless  moisture  would  have  to  be  evaporated  by  the  bees. 
Syrup  for  autumn  and  winter  feeding  is  best  made  in  the  proportion 
of  14  lbs.  of  sugar  to  six  imperial  pints  of  water.  This  should  be 
placed  over  a  clear  fire  and  kept  constantly  stirred  until  it  boils.  It 
must  not  be  allowed  to  boil  for  more  than  two  minutes,  when  it  may 
be  removed  from  the  fire  to  cool.  During  the  boiling  process,  or 
as  soon  as  it  is  taken  off  the  fire,  a  little  salt  and  vinegar  should  be 
added,  a  teaspoonfnl  of  the  former  and  a  tablespoonful  of  the  latter 
will  be  ample.  If  sugar  is  boiled  too  long  it  will  candy,  but  the 
vinegar  will  prevent  this  faking  place. 
The  above  plan  is  recommended  where  there  are  only  a  few 
colonies  of  bees  kept.  Where  the  apiary  is  large,  containing  two  or 
three  dtzen  stocks,  it  is  a  great  saving  of  labour  to  empty  a  2  cwt. 
bag  of  sugar  into  a  large  copper  and  boil  it  all  at  once.  When  work¬ 
ing  on  these  lines  in  our  apiary  we  first  measure  the  water  and  place 
it  in  the  copper,  and  allow  it  to  boil  before  adding  any  sugar.  The 
sugar  is  then  gradually  shaken  into  the  copper,  and  kept  constantly 
stirred.  This  is  important,  as  should  the  sugar  burn  the  bees  will  not 
take  it  readily.  As  soon  as  the  boiling  is  over  the  fire  should  be 
drawn  from  under  the  copper,  and  the  syrup  will  gradually  cool.  If  a 
strong  fire  is  allowed  to  burn  too  long  the  syrup  will  evaporate  and 
may  become  too  thick,  in  which  condition  it  is  not  so  easily  taken  by 
the  bees. 
Feeders. 
There  is  a  great  variety  of  feeders.  The  best  for  autumn  feeding 
are  those  that  will  hold  at  least  a  dozen  pounds  of  syrup,  will  not 
allow  an  escape  of  heat  from  the  brood  chamber,  and  which  allow  the 
bees  ready  access  to  the  syrup.  When  feeding  is  done  on  a  small 
scale  an  inverted  bottle,  having  a  wide  mouth,  and  holding  a  couple 
of  pounds  of  syrup,  answers  all  the  above  requirements,  and  is  the 
warmest  of  all  feeders.  For  this  reason  they  are  often  recommended 
for  spring  feeding. 
When  numerous  colonies  have  to  be  fed  a  different  feeder  is  required, 
and  for  this  purpose  there  is  nothing  we  have  tried  better  than  the 
Canadian  rapid  feeder.  This  is  of  very  simple  construction,  being 
made  of  a  number  of  slats  of  wood,  which  are  fixed  in  a  frame  and 
then  placed  in  a  tin-lined  box.  The  feeder  is  put  on  the  tops  of  the 
frames  after  the  removal  ot  the  quilt  and  coverings.  The  bees  gain 
access  to  the  food  through  openings  on  each  side,  and  as  there  is 
ample  bee  space  under  the  feeder,  they  are  enabled  to  carry  the  syrup 
down  at  a  rapid  rate.  The  bees  are  prevented  from  escaping  by  using 
a  wooden  lid  to  the  box. 
We  have  lately  experimented  with  some  rapid  feeders  made  of 
zinc  instead  of  wood.  The  bees,  however,  did  not  take  readily  to 
them,  and  in  some  instances  refused  to  carry  the  syrup  down  into 
their  combs.  This  was  observed  only  in  those  of  large  size.  The 
zinc  being  cold  was  probably  the  cause  of  this. 
In  other  instances  where  small  zinc  feeders  were  used  and  placed 
on  the  top  of  the  quilt,  through  which  a  hole  was  cut  about  2  inches 
in  diameter,  so  that  the  bees  gained  access  to  the  syrup  through  the 
middle  of  the  feeder,  was  a  perfect  success.  These  feeders  are  useful 
for  either  autumu  or  spring. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
H.  Cannell  &  Sons,  Swanley. — Bulbs. 
A.  Cross  &  Son,  Ltd.,  16,  Hope  Street,  Glasgow. — Flowering  Boots. 
