280 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  28,  1899. 
large  enough  to  handle  they  may  be  pricked  off  into  other  pans,  allowing 
1J  inch  , space  between  each  plant,  and  more  air  be  given  them.  In  a 
short  time  thev  will  be  ready  to  be  potted  [into  small  60-pots.  Eacb 
plant  must  be  taken  from  the  pan  with  as  little  disturbance  ot  the  loots 
as  possible,  and  made  firm  in  the  pots.  "When  the  young  plants  are 
rooted  they  should  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  according  to  their  vigour. 
I  think  48’s  large  enough  for  them  to  remain  in  through  the  winter.  But 
as  soon  as  the  days  lengthen  they  may  be  shifted  again.  Very  little 
water  is  neede  1  during  the  winter  months,  but  abundance  of  air  must  be 
admitted  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
When  the  plants  are  in  their  flowering  pots  a  capital  place  for  them  is 
on  a  shelf,  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  in  an  airy  greenhouse.  Liquid 
manure  should  be  given  occasionally  as  soon  as  the  pots  are  filled  with 
roots.  A  neat  stake  should  support  each  flower-spike,  as  the  stems  are  so 
liable  to  break  off  or  to  rock  about,  which  gives  the  plants  an  unsightly 
appearance. 
Green  fly  is  the  worst  enemy  that  attacks  the  Calceolaria,  and  if  once 
allowed  to  get  established  it  is  a  very  difficult  matter  to  thoroughly  eradicate 
the  insects.  The  leaves  have  a  tendency  to  curl  inwards,  and  this  senes 
as  a  protection  to  the  pests.  Therefore  it  is  needful  we  should  take 
precautions  and  guard  against  this  contingency.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
fumigate  the  plants  lightly  once  a  week. — Aspirant. 
[Our  promising  “  Aspirant  ”  omits  the  time  he  finds  best  for  sowing. 
Young  writers  should  try  and  remember  essential  points,  no  matter  how 
simple  these  may  appear  to  be.] 
HAltDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Lifting  Fruit  Trees. — Young  stone  fruit  trees  after  a  few  years’  grow  th 
often  become  io  luxuriant  that  it  is  desirable  to  curtail  their  vigour  by 
checking  root  growth.  This  may  be  done  by  partial  root-pruning,  or 
complete  lifting  and  replanting.  Trees  with  a  tendency  to  make  late 
growth  ought  to  be  carefully  checked,  in  order  that  the  wood  may  be 
fully  ripened,  which  the  check  of  lifting  will  effect.  It  can  only  be 
successfully'  carried  out  in  the  case  of  trees  having  a  fair  quantity  of 
fibrous  roots.  Those  which  have  only  long  and  strong  roots  must  not  be 
subjected  to  severe  lifting — in  fact,  they  are  better  not  lifted  at  all,  but 
the  long  roots  may  be  shortened,  with  the  effect  perhaps  of  inducing  the 
production  of  much  needed  fibres.  Young  fruit  trees  that  are  readily 
portable  are  easily  lifted  and  replanted. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  among  stone  fruits  are  the  most  important, 
and  ought  not  to  bo  neglected  w  hen  it  is  decided  that  the  trees  net  d  it. 
Take  out  a  trench  according  to  the  size  of  the  trees,  18  inches  to  3  feet 
from  the  stem.  Throw  the  soil  on  one  side,  and  sever  any  long  roots  that 
are  met  with.  When  well  below  the  bulk  of  the  roots  work  underneath, 
and  gradually  raise  the  trees  until  ole  ir  of  the  soil.  Cut  off  all  strong 
roots,  but  preserve  the  fibrous.  The  strong  ones  must  be  cut  smoothly, 
and  not  left  with  jagged  ends.  If  there  is  occasion  to  leave  the  work  a.ter 
the  roots  are  exposed  they  must  be  covered  up.  Raise  any  roots  which 
are  descending  into  a  position  near  the  surface,  working  in  some  good 
soil  about  them,  coinpressing  the  whole  fitmly.  Give  water  if  the  soil  is 
not  moist,  and  mulch  over  the  surface  with  short  manure.  Do  net  secure 
the  trees  permanently  to  the  wall  for  some  time. 
Root-pruning. — Large  and  well-established  trees  ar<f  not  amenable  to 
lifting,  but  any  trees  that  are  too  luxuriant  to  bear  fruits  freely  may  be 
root-pruned.  If  they  are  not  subjected  to  severe  root-pruning  the  work 
may  be  carried  out  now.  The  safest  plan  is  to  operate  on  one  side  only, 
leaving  the  other  side  for  the  following  season  ;  there  is  not  then  so 
much  risk  of  over-checking  the  growth.  A  good  trench  should  be  taken 
out  3  or  4  feet  away  from  stem.  The  strong  roots  which  are  met  with  in 
doing  this  must  be  cut,  and  those  of  a  fibrous  character  preserved.  Very 
strong  thick  roots  may  be  found  extending  straight  downwards,  and  theso 
especially  ought  to  be  severed,  partially  undermining  the  ball  of  roots  to 
reach  them.  Leave  these  roots  w'ith  a  smooth  transverse  cut,  and  strong 
more  horizontally  growing  roots  prune  with  a  slanting  upward  cut.  The 
trench  ought  to  be  filled  in  with  a  mixture  consisting  of  good  turfy  loam 
and  the  old  soil  taken  out,  together  with  wood  ashes  and  bonemeal  inter¬ 
mixed.  Fill  in  and  make  very  firm,  laying  out  the  small  and  fibrous  roots 
in  a  horizontal  direction  as  near  the  surface  as  possible.  It  is  an  excellent 
plan  to  give  a  copious  watering  with  a  rosed  can,  so  as  to  wash  the  soil 
among  the  roots,  filling  up  all  interstices.  Finish  with  a  mulch  of  dry  litter. 
Nourishment  for  Fruit  Trees. — Autumn  and  early  winter  are  periods 
when  manurial  assistance  given  to  old  and  weakly  trees  is  likely  to  prove 
of  much  service.  The  so  1,  being  moist  at  this  time,  will  jetain  food 
washed  in  by  the  autumn  rains,  or  applied  in  the  form  of  liquid  manure. 
Ashes  from  a  burned  refuse  heap  may  be  spread  over  the  root“  of  trees  as 
far  as  they  extend  and  lightly  pointed  in.  They  supply  potash.  After¬ 
wards  spread  over  a  good  mulching  of  decomposed  organic  manure,  and, 
if  available,  pour  on  a  liberal  quantity  of  sewage,  or  drainings  from  the 
farmyard,  diluted,  if  strong,  wilh  water.  In  addition  to  treating  old  and 
weakly  specimens,  any  tre  e  or  bush  in  full  bearing  will  be  benefited  by 
he  application.  The  exceptions  are  trees  or  bushes  already  making 
strong  growth  and  not  bearing  proportionate  crops,  also  young  trees  which 
can  find  si  ffident  food  for  their  requirements  in  moist  and  fertile  soil. 
Raspberries  and  Currants  like  liberal  feeding  in  autumn,  as  they  are 
usually  well  furnished  with  fibrous  roots  near  the  surface,  and  the  best 
manner  of  supplying  them  is  to  give  good  mulchings  of  rich  manure 
from  which  the  autumn  rains  will  wash  all  soluble  food  into  the  soil. 
Thinning  out  and  Regulating  Trees  and  Bushes. — Standard,  half¬ 
standard,  and  open  bush  trees,  also  Gooseberry  and  Currant  bushes* 
are  very  likely  to  have  too  many  branches  and  growths  retained.  All 
these  derive  advantage  from  thinning  out  and  regulating  while  the  foliage 
is  still  present.  Crossing  and  interlacing  branches  can  be  removed,  and 
the  crowded  centres  of  trees  opened  out.  Much  superfluous  wood  may  be 
removed  from  Gooseberry  bushes,  especially  in  the  centres  and  near  the 
soil,  where  the  lower  parts  are  hanging  towards  the  ground. 
Planting  Raspberries.  —  Dwarf  strong  suckers  may  be  planted  if 
lifted  carefully  with  some  soil  adhering  to  the  roots.  Prepare  the  soil 
both  rich  and  deep  for  Raspberries,  as  they  are  gross  feeders,  and 
strong  roots  descend  deeply,  while  tufts  of  fibrous  roots  spread  near 
the  surface.  Water  after  planting,  and  spread  a  light  mulch  round. 
Where  the  soil  has  not  been  prepared  for  planting  the  latter  operation 
may  be  deferred  until  the  leaves  fall,  in  the  meantime  trenching  and 
liberally  manuring  the  ground. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — The  plants  for  winter  fruiting,  and  grown  on  the 
“express”  system,  must  be  in  their  final  quarters  by  the  middle  of 
October  to  insure  a  good  supply  at  Christmas  and  onwards.  Keep 
them  near  the  glass  to  insure  sturdy  growth,  not  allowing  them  to 
become  root-bound.  If  fermenting  material  bo  employed  for  bottom 
heat  it  must  undergo  a  due  course  of  preparation,  and  the  heating 
apparatus  also  seen  to  and  put  in  proper  older.  A  bottom  heat  of 
85°  to  90°  will  be  safe,  but  the  latter  temperature  should  not  be 
exceeded,  if  from  hot-water  pipes  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  to  85°  i» 
sufficient.  Most  growers  for  market  dispense  with  bottom  heat.  Turfy 
loam  of  an  open  nature  is  best  for  Cucumbers.  If  there  be  a  suspicion 
of  eehvorm  bake  it  in  an  improvised  oven  formed  of  loose  bricks  and 
an  iron  plate,  placing  grass  side  on  this,  and  when  heated  through  so 
that  the  hand  cannot  be  borne  on  the  top  side,  it  is  cooked  enough. 
The  process  will  not  injure  the  compost  in  the  least  degree,  while  it 
will  certainly  kill  any  contained  eelworms  and  fungoid  germs.  A  third 
of  sweett  ned  manure,  that  is,  fermented,  may  be  added  to  the  turfy  loam, 
with  half  a  pound  per  cubic  foot  of  a  mixture  of  equal  parts,  by  measure, 
of  ail-slaked  chalk  lime  and  fresh  soot,  mixing  well. 
Autumn  Fruiters. — A  healthy  and  vigorous  growth  must  be  maintained, 
and  do  not  overcrop  the  plants.  Afford  weak  tepid  liquid  manure  once 
or  twice  a  week  as  may  be  necessary.  Add  a  little  fresh  soil  duly  warmed 
about  once  a  fortnight  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks.  Maintain  a  night  tempe¬ 
rature  of  63°,  70°  to  75°  by  dnv  from  fire  heat,  and  80°  to  90°  from  suir. 
Avoid  a  stagnant  atmosphere  by  careful  and  moderate  ventilation,  but 
drying  currents  must  be  prevented,  tor  they  are  very  injurious.  Bo 
sparing  in  the  use  of  water,  esp  daily  on  the  foliage,  keeping  a  genial 
condition  of  the  atmosphere  by  damping  the  floor  and  walls  in  the- 
morning  and  afternoon,  and  gradually  reduce  the  atmospheric  moisture 
as  the  days  shorten  and  the  natural  heat  declines.  If  aphides  attack  the 
plants  fumigate  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings,  for  mildew,  white- 
tiy,  and  red  spider  thinly  coat  the  hot- water  pipes  with  a  cream  of  flowers 
of  sulphur  and  skim  milk. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Late  Houses. — When  the  fruit  ha3  been 
gathered,  as  will  be  the  case  where  there  are  midseason  varieties,  the- 
next  important  object  is  to  ripen  the  wood.  This  can  be  done  by  thinning 
unnecessary  shoots,  in  addition  to  those  that  have  borne  fruit,  the  latter 
being  cut  out  to  a  successional  shoot  at  the  base,  and  the  former  being- 
thinned  where  overcrowded.  In  the  case  of  very  vigorous  trees  it  may  be 
necessary  to  accelerate  the  ripening  of  the  wood  by  gentle  fire  heat, 
especially  in  dull  weather,  at  the  same  time  admitting  air  freely.  Some 
ot  the  late  Peaches — as,  for  instance,  Walburton  Admirable,  Golden 
Eagle,  and  Comet— will  require  gentle  fire  heat  in  cold  localities  to  ripen 
them  thoroughly.  An  occasicnal  syringing  will  be  necessary  for  trees 
from  which  the  fruit  has  been  gathered. 
Unsatisfactory  Trees. — When  the  trees  cast  their  buds,  do  not  set  the 
fruit  well,  or  fail  to  stone  and  finish  their  crops  satisfactorily,  something 
is  amiss  either  in  the  management  or  with  the  rcots.  Either  the  roots 
are  too  deep,  or  the  soil  is  too  rich  or  loose,  unsuitable  material,  or 
imperfectly  drained.  Trees  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition  should  be 
wholly  or  partially  lifted  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  mature.  If  this  be  done 
w  hilst  the  trees  are  in  leaf  the  house  should  be  shaded  before  commencing 
operations,  and  the  old  border  made  evenly  moist,  but  not  wet.  In 
removing  the  soil  commence  at  the  point  most  distant,  and  work  towards 
the  trees,  and  when  it  has  been  cleared  away  the  exposed  roots  should 
be  drawn  aside,  damped,  and  covered  with  mats  whilst  the  drainage  is 
being  attended  to.  This  should  consist  of  12  inches  thickness  of  rubble, 
largest  at  the  bottom  and  smallest  at  the  top,  and  if  a  covering  be  placed 
on  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  freed  from  all  bits  of  wood,  it  will  make  all 
secure,  and  be  a  source  of  calcareous  matter.  A  drain  must  be  provided 
below  the  rubble  to  carry  off  all  water,  and  it  must  have  proper  fall  and 
outlet.  Strong  loam  is  the  most  suitable  compost.  If  inclined  to  be  light 
add  a  fourth  of  clay  marl,  as  fine  as  possible,  if  very  heavy  add  a  fourth 
of  road  scrapings  and  in  any  case  a  tenth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  taking- 
care  to  remove  laths  and  other  pieces  of  wood. 
A  cartload  of  wood  ashes  or  charred  refuse  may  be  added  to  every  ten 
cartloads  of  the  compost  and  2  cwt.  basic  c’nder  phosphate.  The  whole 
well  incorporated  should  be  put  in  the  border  firmly,  and  the  roots,  afte® 
