322 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  12,  1899. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
The  Herbaceous  Calceolaria. 
Having  omitted  to  state  in  my  article  on  the  Calceolaria,  in  the 
Journal  of  Horticulture  *'or  September  28th,  the  time  I  think  best  for  sowing: 
the  seed,  I  will  now  do  so.  Where  successional  displays  are' required, 
sowing  may  be  made  at  intervals  of  about  three  weeks  from  May  till 
July.  Flowers  will  then  be  had  from  early  spring  till  well  into  the 
summer.  As  a  rule  we  make  one  sowing  suffice  ;  this  is  done  about  the 
third  week  in  May.  Pans  are  used  for  the  seeds,  which  are  scattered 
thinly,  and  as  evenly  as  possible  over  the  surface  of  the  prepared  soil,  as 
mentioned  in  the  previous  articl’.  The  very  minuteness  of  the  seed 
necessitates  special  care  being  taken  in  its  distribution,  and  a  small  pinch 
between  the  thumb  and  finger  is  generally  sufficient  for  a  good  sized  pan. 
This  method  of  sowing  is,  I  think,  better  than  shaking  the  seed  out  of 
the  packet  over  the  surface. — Aspirant. 
Sweet  Peas  from  Cuttings. 
On  perusing  “  P.  R.’s  ”  notes  on  Sweet  Peas,  I  thought  it  might  interest 
readers  of  the  Young  Gardeners’  Domain,  to  whom  it  may  be  un¬ 
known,  that  these  will  root  readily  from  cuttings.  A  gardener  friend  of 
mine,  who  has  to  manage  his  employer’s  garden  on  very  economical  lines 
financially,  invariably  has  a  grand  display  ot  the  newer  varieties,  and  this 
is  how  he  manages  it.  He  can  only  afford  to  purchase  one  or  two 
packets  of  seed  annually,  but  these  he  sows  early,  and  when  about  5  or  • 
6  inches  high  takes  the  tops  off.  These  root  readily  under  a  hand-light. 
This  process  may  be  repeated  with  the  cuttings,  if  need  be  —  i.e.,  the 
tops  can  be  again  removed  when  rooted  and  utilised  in  the  same  w'ay. 
Besides  the  advantage  of  getting  a  good  stock  of  a  favourite  variety 
during  one  season,  which  would  otherwise  be  impossible  from  one  packet 
of  seed  (for  they  rarely  contain  more  than  twenty  seeds  at  most),  it 
induces  a  bushy  branching  habit  in  those  clumps  from  which  cuttings 
are  taken.  It  also  prolongs  the  season  of  flowering,  for  it  naturally 
follows  that  cuttings  rooted  at  different  periods  come  into  flower  also  at 
various  times. 
My  friend  grows  his  Sweet  Peas  in  clumps,  each  clump  a  distinct 
variety.  This,  to  my  mind,  is  a  much  more  effective  system  than  planting 
in  rows.  A  very  fine  effect  can  be  produced  by  planting  these  clumps  at 
the  back  of  a  herbaceous  border — say,  at  a  distance  of  5  leet  from  clump 
to  clump,  or  wherever  there  is  space  amongst  the  other  occupants  of  the 
border.  Care  must  be  taken  that  no  very  tall  growing  plant  is  immediately 
in  front  of  the  clump,  or  the  effect  will  be  spoilt.  It  white  or  very  light 
varieties  are  planted  about  every  third  clump,  these  seem  to  intensify  and 
throw  into  bold  relief  the  daiker  kinds. — S.  X. 
Cauliflower  and  Broccoli. 
To  maintain  a  continuous  supply  of  Cauliflower  and  Broccoli  through¬ 
out  the  year  is  a  work  of  no  small  importance,  and  demands  both  fore¬ 
thought  and  skill  on  the  part  of  the  cultivator.  The  seasons  have  much 
to  do  with  the  success  or  failure  of  these  vegetables,  perhaps  more  so 
than  any  other  ;  if  the  summer  be  abnormally  hot  and  dry,  many  of  the 
plants  will  go  blind,  while  during  severe  winters  several  are  killed  out¬ 
right,  especially  in  exposed  situations.  They  delight  in  a  deep,  rich,  and 
moist,  yet  firm  rooting  medium,  and  in  accordance  with  these  principles 
the  land  should  be  prepared.  The  distance  apart  at  which  they  must 
be  planted  will  vary  according  to  the  variety.  For  Cauliflowers  from  2  to 
3  feet  in  the  row,  and  2  feet  6  inches  to  3  feet  6  inches  between  the 
rows  will  be  a  safe  distance  ;  while  for  Broccoli  from  18  to  30  inches 
apart  each  way  will  suffice. 
To  supply  the  demand  after  the  last  of  the  Broccoli  have  disappeared, 
seeds  of  Early  London,  Early  Erfurt,  and  Walcheren  Cauliflowers  should 
be  sown  thinly  about  the  second  week  in  August,  making  a  second  sowing 
ten  days  later,  as  from  this  the  plants  are  often  better  than  those  sown 
earlier.  If  the  weather  be  very  dry  the  ground  should  be  well  watered 
before  sowing  the  seed,  and  afterwards  be  kept  moist  by  frequent  evening 
waterings,  and  occasionally  dusting  the  young  plants  while  wet  with 
soot  and  lime  is  advantageous.  During  the  month  of  October  they 
should  be  transplanted  into  frames,  where  they  will  remain  until  March 
or  April,  when  they  may  be  put  out  into  their  final  positions.  If  it  be 
desired  to  plant  them  permanently  in  autumn,  the  required  number  of 
plants  should,  when  large  enough,  be  pricked  out  into  nursery  beds, 
watering  occasionally  if  toe  weather  be  dry,  and  good  strong  plants  will 
be  the  result.  About  the  third  week  in  October  plant  them  five  or 
six  together,  and  put  hand-lights  over  them ;  give  plenty  of  air  on  all 
favourable  occasions,  both  to  these  and  those  in  the  frames,  removing  the 
lights  altogether  when  the  weather  permits.  Thin  them  out  in  April,  or 
earlier  if  necessary,  leaving  only  sufficient  plants  to  occupy  the  available 
space  without  overcrowding  ;  heads  from  plants  thus  treated  will  precede 
those  wintered  in  frames. 
For  successional  plants,  seeds  of  Walcheren,  Autumn  Giant,  and 
Stadtholder  may  be  sown  in  heat  during  February,  transplanted  cn  to 
hotbeds  or  into  boxes,  and  carefully  hardened  for  planting  during 
April  and  May.  Later  sowings  can  be  made  outside  and  planted  from 
the  seed  bed  as  required.  Should  the  weather  be  very  dry  they  must 
receive  copious  waterings,  earthing  them  deeply  as  the  plants  become 
large  enough.  During  the  late  autumn  months  many  Cauliflowers  are 
rendered  useless  by  cold  and  wet ;  this  may  be  obviated  to  some  extent 
by  bending  several  of  the  leaves  over  them,  but  if  old  lights  with  a  few 
boards  are  available,  a  temporary  frame  can  soon  be  made  in  which  they 
can  be  more  effectually  protected  from  the  effects  of  the  weather.  Tie 
the  leaves  together,  lift  the  plants  with  a  ball  of  soil,  place  them  closely 
together  in  the  frame  in  an  upright  position  in  trenches  sufficiently  deep 
to  bury  the  roots,  afford  a  watering,  and  they  will  keep  three  weeks  or 
more  in  good  condition,  and  a  plentiful  supply  will  be  maintained  until 
late  into  the  autumn. 
The  treatment  of  Broccoli  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Cauliflower, 
the  chief  difference  being  in  the  time  of  sowing.  To  .have  heads  ready 
for  cutting  in  autumn  seeds  of  Grange’s  Autumn,  Walcheren,  and  VeitcL’s 
Self-protecting  may  be  sown  about  the  end  of  March  in  a  sheltered 
situation,  transplanting  from  the  seed  beds  to  the  permanent  positions. 
For  successional  crops  seeds  may  be  sown  until  the  second  week  in  May. 
Varieties  for  this  purpose  are  Snow’s  Winter  White,  Cooling's  Matchless, 
and  Leamington  for  winter  use  ;  while  for  late  spring  Cattfll’s  Eclipse, 
Model,  and  Late  Queen  may  be  used.  The  later  crops  should  be  planted 
on  land  that  has  been  cleared  of  early  Potatoes,  Peas,  or  Strawberries, 
making  it  firm  before  the  plants  are  inserted.  If  dry  wehther  prevail 
they  should  have  abundance  of  water,  or  satisfactory  progress  will  not 
be  made.  The  ground  between  the  plants  must  be  stirred  with  the  hoe  to 
keep  down  weeds  and  to  retain  moisture. 
At  the  approach  of  winter  some  recommend  the  practice  of  “heeling- 
in  ”  with  their  heads  towards  the  north,  while  others  prefer  to  put  stable 
litter  about  the  plants.  From  the  former  method  little  or  no  advantage 
appears  to  be  gained,  while  the  latter  gives  the  garden  a  decidedly 
untidy  appearance,  though  it  affords  the  best  protection,  and  the  plants 
are  not  checked  in  growth,  as  in  the  process  of  heeling-in.  In  ordinary 
winters  the  majority  of  the  plants  w.ll  pass  through  favourably,  no 
protection  being  required  at  all.  They  should,  however,  be  examined 
occasionally,  and  heads  sufficiently  large  ought  to  be  cut,  or  the  plant 
pulled  up  and  hung  head  downwards  in  a  cool  place,  out  of  the  reach  of 
frost,  until  required  for  use. — S.  P. 
HAKDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Preparations  for  Planting  Fruit  Trees. — One  of  the  most  important 
matters  prior  to  planting  is  the  selection  of  the  trees.  Good  fruit  trees 
and  bushes  of  reliable  varieties  cannot  be  obtained  without  paying  a  fair 
price  for  them.  So-called  cheap  trees  are  not  to  be  depended  upon, 
either  as  to  variety  or  in  making  growths  of  a  satisfactory  character  after 
planting.  When  this  is  the  case  It  is  disappointing,  but  it  may  be  avoided 
by  dealing  with  a  first-class  firm,  who  can  only  afford  to  grow  and 
sell  the  best.  The  grounds  of  tbe  nursery  should  be  visited  at  the  present 
time,  the  trees  selected  in  their  growing  position  with  instructions  to 
carelully  lift,  pack,  and  deliver  them  safely  in  readiness  for  early 
November  planting.  When  received  the  cultivator  should  supplement 
the  care  and  attention  of  the  nurseryman  by  laying-in  the  trees  in 
damp  soil  until  the  moment  of  planting.  The  present  month  ought  to 
be  largely  devoted  to  preparing  the  positions  for  planting,  as  it  is  highly 
desirable  that  the  trees  and  bushes  have  a  fair  start. 
Draining .  —  The  best  positions  for  fruit  trees  are  where  the  soil  is 
naturally  well  drained,  but  in  some  cases  this  is  not  attainable.  Wherever 
water  is  liable  to  collect  within  2  feet  of  the  surface  this  is  obviously  not 
suitable,  as  the  extra  moisture  would  cause  strong,  sappy,  unfruitful 
growth.  The  best  method  of  draining  a  large  plot  of  ground  is  to  lay 
cyhnier  tiles  of  2-inch  bore  in  rows  15  to  18  feet  apart  and  3  feet  deep. 
They  mu-t  have  an  outlet  to  a  main  drain,  which  should  empty  itself 
at  the  lowest  point  of  the  ground.  The  drains  ought  to  have  a  proper 
fall,  so  that  water  runs  readdy  through  them.  Good  drainage  may  be 
effected  In  cases  where  the  subsoil  is  not  too  wet  by  planting  on  slightly 
raised  mounds,  or  specially  draining  the  positions  where  the  trees  are  to 
be  planted  by  excavating  the  soil  3  feet  deep,  and  laying  down  a  foot  of 
stones  or  rubble  ;  on  this  a  layer  of  turf,  which  will  prevent  the  soil 
working  down  among  the  drainage. 
Digging  and  Trenching. — The  ground  must  be  thoroughly  well  culti¬ 
vated  before  any  attempt  is  made  io  plant.  The  good  soil  in  most 
gardens  is  invariably  that  nearest  the  surface,  and  it  is  in  this  well- 
worked  medium  that  the  trees  should  be  planted.  It  is  important,  also, 
that  the  soil  below  be  moved  and  broken  up.  This  increases  the  area 
from  which  food  and  moisture  may  be  drawii  whenever  the  surface  soil 
becomes  deficient,  and  does  not  meet  the  requirements  of  the  trees.  It  is 
obvious,  then,  that  ordinary  d  gging  one  spade  deep  is  scarcely  sufficient, 
especially  if  the  subsoil  has  not  hitherto  been  broken  up.  The  best 
manner  of  effecting  the  moving  of  the  soil  two  spits  deep  is  to  bastard 
trench  the  ground.  A  trench  2  feet  deep  and  2  feet  wide  should  be  taken 
out  and  wheeled  to  the  point  where  it  is  intended  to  finish.  Dig  or  fork 
up  the  bottom.  Before  filling  in  further  mark  cut  the  next  trench,  and 
take  out  the  top  spit.  The  next  spit  may  then  be  thrown  into  the  bottom 
of  the  first,  where  it  will  occupy  a  similar  position.  The  top  spit  of  the 
third  trench  then  comes  in  to  complete  the  first.  The  bottom  of  every 
trench  ought  to  be  broken  up,  a  little  manure  added  and  incorporated, 
which  will  assist  in  improving  a  poor  and  hungry  subsoil. 
Manuring. — Digging  in  a  quantity  of  rich  manure  is  not  advisable 
when  contemplating  planting  fruit  trees.  It  will  cause  a  soft  and  rapid 
