JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
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October  19,  1899. 
the  name  Appieton  meaning  Apple-town.  Nor  was  it  heard  of,  that 
I  remember,  at  Bolton  Percy,  a  village  nearer  Tadcaster.  Charles¬ 
town  Pippin  was  not  then  applied  as  a  term  synonymous  with 
T’Helmender  Apple  that  I  can  gather  from  memory,  though  it  may 
have  been  used  for  the  fruit,  which  is  better  in  quality  than  King 
of  the  Pippins,  of  which  it  may  be  considered  an  improved  form. — 
G.  Abbey. 
[Not  recognising  the  Apple  as  identical  with  any  other  variety, 
and  knowing  Mr.  Abbey’s  close  acquaintance  with  Apples  grown  in 
Yorkshire  many  years  ago,  we  consulted  him  on  the  subject.  The 
Apple  is  distinct  from  King  of  the  Pippins,  but  may  very  well,  and 
not  improbably,  have  originated  from  that  variety  as  suggested.  It 
is  tender,  sweet,  and  agreeable,  though  not  in  appearance  imposing.] 
POINSETTIAS. 
In  the  dark  days  of  winter  there  are  few  plants  which  give 
greater  pleasure  than  these.  They  are  extremely  useful  in  various 
ways — for  brightening  our  stoves  and  -warm  conservatories,  with  their 
vivid  colours  adding  beauty  to  groups  in  rooms,  and  individually 
lighting  dull  nooks  and  corners.  Small  specimens  in  3-inch  and 
4-inch  pots,  mixed  with  a  few  Ferns  or  Asparagus,  give  a  brilliant 
effect,  and,  when  not  employed  too  lavishly,  are  appreciated.  As  cut 
flowers  Poinsettias  are  not  the  easiest  plants  with  which  to  deal.  Only 
in  the  boldest  of  designs  and  arrangements  should  they  be  employed. 
A  grand  effect  can  be  produced  for  a  very  large  dinner  party  with  the 
addition  of  some  Callas  thrown  into  bold  relief  with  foliage  of  the 
latter. 
In  the  questions  and  answers  column  of  a  recent  issue  something 
was  said  as  to  the  cause  of  Poinsettias  losing  their  lower  leaves.  This 
trouble  is  by  no  means  confined  to  the  plants  of  inexperienced  growers, 
but  is  far  too  prevalent  with  those  who,  in  most  cases,  should  be  able 
to  avoid  it.  Many  are  ^the  causes  which  predispose  towards  this 
defect.  No  matter  how  large  the  bracts  or  how  well  coloured,  the 
plants,  if  destitute  of  their  lower  leaves,  are  shorn  of  a  great  part  of 
their  value  for  decorative  purposes.  Overcrowding  (in  the  growing 
quarters,  being  kept  too  far  from  the  glass,  neglect  in  watering,  lack 
of  nourishment  to  the  roots,  and  the  ripening  process  at  times 
■ecommended  as  assisting  in  the  formation  of  bracts  carried  to 
extremes,  are  some  of  the  evils  which  tend  to  the  fault. 
There  are  two  methods  of  propagating  Poinsettias.  The  one  from 
which  I  have  obtained  the  better  results  is  one  which  has  been  many 
times  written  of  in  these  pages.  About  the  middle  of  March  shake 
out  the  old  plants  that  have  been  at  rest  during  the  winter  and  repot 
in  good  soil.  Restart  them  into  growth  in  a  fairly  high  temperature 
and  the  old  stems  will  quickly  put  forth  young  shoots,  and  these 
should  be  kept  near  the  glass  to  induce  sturdy  growth,  weak 
cuttings  in  many  instances  being  the  cause  of  unsatisfactory  results. 
These  young  shoots  as  they  attain  to  3  or  4  iuches  in  length  should 
be  removed  with  a  sharp  knife,  with  or  without  a  heel  (I  have  not 
noticed  much  difference  from  either  way),  the  bottom  leaves  trimmed 
off,  and  a  clean  cut  made  just  below  a  joint. 
The  cuttings  may  then  be  dibbled  singly  into  small  pots,  plunged 
in  a  close  frame  in  a  warm  structure,  where,  with  ordinary  care,  the 
root  ng  process  will  soon  be  accomplished.  It  may  be  advisable,  if 
the  old  plants  are  growing  in  a  close  hot  place,  to  remove  them  to 
slightly  cooler  quarters  for  a  few  days  prior  to  securing  the  cuttings. 
By  this  means  the  growths  will  be  hardened,  and  there  will  afterwards 
be  less  liability  of  losses  from  damping.  Cuttings  will  root  if  placed 
in  a  Cucumber  or  Melon  frame,  but  this  involves  a  longer  time  for 
rooting,  and  also  a  certain  proportion  of  loss. 
Where  great  numbers  have  to  be  propagated,  the  method  of  cutting 
up  the  old  stems  with  a  dormant  bud  to  each,  after  the  manner  of 
Vine  eyes,  may  commend  itself  to  many.  The  pieces  of  stem  should 
be  inserted  2  inches  apart  in  pans  containing  a  sandy  open  soil.  If 
placed  in  strong  heat  the  buds  soon  grow  and  roots  will  be  emitted, 
when  the}'’  must  be  carefully  lifted  from  the  pans  and  placed  singly 
into  small  pots,  be  kept  close  for  a  few  days  until  the  roots  have  taken 
hold  of  the  new  soil,  afterwards  hardening  and  growing  in  the  same 
way  as  the  others. 
A  suitable  position  for  the  young  plants  when  fairly  started 
growing  is  a  shelf  in  a  Cucumber  house  or  stove.  Repotting  will  be 
needful  as  the  pots  become  full  of  roots.  One  sees  at  times,  in  7  and 
8-inch  pots,  fine  plants  6  feet  high,  with  bracts  24  inches  across.  Such 
must  have  had  a  considerable  amount  of  time  in  which  to  grow  and 
develop.  It  is,  therefore,  obvious  that  late  rooted  plants  cannot  attain 
to  the  size  of  these,  and  in  moving  into  larger  pots  judgment 
must  be  exercised  as  to  the  time  of  year  and  the  size  of  plants  ulti¬ 
mately  desired.  I  venture  to  say  those  grown  in  4-inch  and  5-inch 
pots,  from  18  inches  to  2  feet  in  height,  with  bracts  of  even  contour, 
and  from  a  foot  to  18  inches  in  diameter,  are,  from  a  decorative  point 
of  view,  in  every  way  desirable.  Small  |late  rooted  plants  in  3-inch 
pots  will  often  be  found  useful. 
During  the  warmest  months  Poinsettias  may  be  grown  in  cold  pits 
■  or  frames,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  giving  special  attention 
to  the  watering.  When  first  introduced  to  these  cool  positions,  they 
will  need  elevating  on  pots  or  temporary  staging  which  can  be  lowered 
as  the  leaves  too  nearly  approach  the  glass.  Allow  all  the  sunshine  the 
plants  can  bear  without  burning,  though  a  slight  shading  will  be  found 
beneficial  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  middle  of  the  day  when  the  sun  is 
hottest.  If  the  nights  become  cold,  and  house  room  is  not  ready, 
ample  covering  must  be  given  ;  by  this  means  valuable  space  may  for 
a  time  be  secured.  I  have  found  equal  parts  of  loam,  leaf  soil, 
and  peat,  with  enough  sand  to  keep  the  whole  porous,  a  good  compost 
in  which  to  grow  Poinsettias.  In  some  districts  they  can  be  grown  in 
the  natural  loam  with  only  the  addition  of  a  small  amount  of  well 
decayed  manure  and  sand.  In  this  matter  cultivators  may  soon  learn 
for  themselves  what  is  best  for  their  plants. 
We  never  use  stimulating  manures  until  the  coming  bract  can  be 
discerned  in  the  centre  of  the  growth  in  the  form  of  a  bud.  If  still  in 
a  cool  place  a  warmer  temperature  at  this  time  must  be  given,  though 
the  plants  must  still  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  and  good 
results  should  follow.  At  this  period,  when  the  heads  are  forming,  it 
is  our  practice  to  give  the  plants  weak  liquid  manure  once  every  other 
week,  and  as  much  sulphate  of  ammonia  as  will  cover  a  shilling  to  a 
gallon  of  water.  A  friend  looking  last  year  at  some  plants  5  feet  high 
crowned  with  good  heads  appeared  to  scarcely  notice  the  latter.  His 
first  remark  was,  “  How  do  you  keep  the  leaves  on  ?  ”  Perhaps  in  the 
foregoing  remarks  he  and  others  may  find  some  enlightenment. 
It  is  generally  conceded  there  are  two  varieties  of  P.  pulcherrima, 
besides  the  so-called  white  form  ;  the  latter  I  do  not  care  for.  Of  the 
other  two  one  is  slightly  earlier,  with  possibly  somewhat  better  formed 
bracts,  but  not  so  brilliant  in  colour  as  the  later  one.  Toj  me  the 
practice  of  training  the  plants  around  the  edges  of  the  pots  in  which 
they  are  growing  is  unnatural ;  but  I  should  like  to  add  to  my  rather 
lengthy  remarks,  that  if  it  is  desired  to  carry  out  this  method  careful 
measures  should  be  employed — attention  must  be  given  every  two  or 
three  days  in  the  growing  season,  gently  pegging  or  tying  the  shoots 
in  the  needed  direction. — J.  Shalford. 
RENOVATING  VINE  BORDERS. 
Where  the  Vines  are  unsatisfactory,  the  cause  can  usually  be 
traced  to  defects  of  border,  which  may  have  been  improperly  made  of 
material  that  has  become  sodden  and  sour,  or  from  errors  of  manage¬ 
ment  made  quite  unsuitable  for  root  formation  and  preservation. 
In  such  cases — wood  longrjointed  and  sappy  and  not  ripening  well. 
Grapes  not  colouring  properly,  and  not  a  few  berries  shanking — no 
time  should  be  lost  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  effected  their  functions, 
and  whilst  they  are  still  upon  the  Vine,  in  removing  the  soil  down  to 
the  roots  and  picking  it  from  amongst  them,  so  as  to  displace  as  much 
of  it  as  possible  with  fresh.  Many  old  Vines  may  thus  be  rejuve¬ 
nated  where  it  is  impossible  to  lilt  the  roots.  By  removing  the  soil 
from  over  and  amongst  such  strong  fibreless  roots,  and  supplying  fresh 
soil  for  a  distance  of  2  or  3  yards  from  the  collar,  new  roots  may 
be  had,  especially  if  the  old  ones  are  notched  about  half  way  through 
on  the  upper  and  under  side  alternately.  Improvement  results  in  the 
following  season,  as  the  food  substances  are  more  appropriate,  and 
when  new  roots  are  secured  they  can  be  fed  to  any  extent  by 
judicious  top-dressings  and  liquid  applications.  It  is  astonishing 
what  recuperative  powers  old  Vines  possess  and  what  good  results 
follow  the  securing  of  new  roots  near  the  stems. 
Where  the  border  is  very  unsatisfactory  and  the  roots  few  and  deep 
it  is,  no  doubq  the  better  plan  to  remove  all  the  soil  and  renew  the 
whole  border,  commencing  with  the  drainage.  This  should  be  1  foot 
thick,  having  a  layer  of  fine  material  at  the  top,  nothing  answering 
better  than  old  mortar  rubbish  freed  from  laths  or  other  bits  of  wood, 
a  3-inch  thickness  over  9  inches  of  brickbats  or  rubble.  The  drainage 
must  have  a  3  or  4-inch  tile  drain  or  drains  under,  with  proper  fall  and 
outlet  to  carry  off  superfluous  water.  Two  feet  depth  of  soil  is  ample. 
Turfy  loam,  containing  a  good  percentage  of  small  stones  and  grit,  is 
unquestionably  the  best,  It  should  be  of  medium  texture,  that  over- 
lying  clayey  being  better  than  that  overlying  a  sandy  substratum. 
Soils  of  the  old  and  new  red  sandstone  formations,  commonly  called  “  red 
lands,”  give  the  best  and  most  lasting  results.  Strong  loam  inter¬ 
spersed  with  flints  or  calcareous  gravel  is  excellent. 
The  roots  should  be  laid  out  evenly  in  the  top  foot,  encouraging 
those  from  the  collar  by  laying  any  that  proceed  therefrom  only  just 
beneath  the  surface.  The-  whole  must  be  made  firm,  and  the  compost 
be  moderately  dry.  Where  the  roots  are  inside  and  outside  one  part 
may  be  done  one  year  and  the  other  the  next  without  any  danger  of 
loss  of  crop.  Mulch  the  surface  with  a  little  short  rather  fresh 
manure,  preferably  horse  droppings;  outside  borders  maybe  covered 
with  sufficient  leaves,  and  a  little  litter  over  them  to  exclude  frost. 
The  work  should  not  be  delayed  beyond  change  of  colour  in  the  leaves 
for  falling.  Any  Grapes  then  remaining  may  be  cut  and  bottled. 
— G.  A. 
