336 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  19,  1899. 
ROYAL  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
The  next  Fruit  and  Floral  meeting  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  will  be  held  on  Tuesday,  October  24th,  in  the  Drill  Hall, 
Janies  Street,  Westminster,  1  to  4  P.M.  A  lecture  on  “Growth  of  the 
Fruit  Trade”  will  be  given  by  Mr.  Geo.  Monro,  Y.M.H.,  at  three 
o’clock. 
The  War  Office  having  asked  for  the  Drill  Hall  of  the  London 
Scottish  Volunteers  (in  which  the  meetings  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  are  held)  to  be  placed  at  its  disposal  for  the  temporary 
accommodation  of  300  soldiers  en  route  for  South  Africa,  it  is  probable 
that  the  Society's  meeting  on  October  24th  will  have  to  be  held  in  the 
Drill  Hall  of  the  Queen’s  Westminster  Volunteers,  which  adjoins  that 
of  the  London  Scottish,  being  actually  the  next  door.  If  this  should 
be  the  case  Fellows  and  exhibitors  are  requested  to  make  the  best  of 
an  unavoidable  inconveuience,  which  it  is  hoped  will  not  have  to  be 
repeated. 
Dates  of  Meetings  in  1900. 
The  following  dates  have  been  fixed  provisionally  for  meetings  in 
1900: — January  9th  and  23rd,  February  13th  and  27th,  March  13th 
and  27th.  April  10th  and  24th,  May  8th  and  23rd,  24th,  25th  (in  the 
Temple  Gardens),  June  5th  and  19th  at  the  Drid  Hall,  27th  at 
Richmond;  July  3rd,  17th,  and  31st,  August  14th  and  28th,  Sep¬ 
tember  11th  and  25th  at  the  Drill  Hall,  and  27th,  28th,  29th  at  the 
Crystal  Palace  ;  October  9th  and  23rd,  November  6th  and  20tb,  and 
December  4th  and  18th.  Janua  y,  1901,  15th  and  29th,  and 
February  12th.  Gentlemen  willing  to  lecture  on  any  of  these  dates 
are  requested  to  communicate  with  the  Secretary,  117,  Victoria  Street, 
S.W.,  at  once 
Chiswick  Trials. 
Trials  will  be  made  at  Chiswick  in  1900  with  the  following 
subjects  : — 
1,  Tulips  for  outdoor  decoration.  Twelve  bulbs  of  each  variety 
should  be  sent  at  once  to  the  Superintendent,  R.H.S.  Gardens, 
Chiswick,  W.  Each  variety  should  be  marked  with  its  colour,  and 
whether  early,  midseason,  or  late. 
2,  Phlox  decussata.  Two  plants  of  each  should  be  sent  on  or 
before  March  1st. 
3,  Cactus  Dahlias.  The  1899  trial  will  be  repeated.  Any  new 
varieties,  two  plants  of  each,  should  be  sent  in  April. 
4,  Potatoes,  new  varieties.  Twenty  tubers  to  be  sent  before 
February  1st.  Also  a  trial  of  distinctly  early  Potatoes,  both  old  and 
new  varieties  requested. 
5,  Tomatoes,  for  outdoors  only.  Seed  before  February  1st. 
6,  Peas.  Half-pint  to  be  sent  in  January. 
7,  Celeriac.  Seed  in  January. 
Examination  in  Horticulture. 
The  Royal  Horticultural  Society  will  hold  its  next  examination  in 
horticulture  on  Tuesday,  April  17th,  1900.  For  syllabus  apply  to 
the  Secretary,  R.H.S.,  117,  Victoria  Street,  S.W.,  enclosing  a  stamp. 
Richmond  Horticultural  Society. 
“  The  Council  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  have  kindly 
consented  to  hold  one  of  their  exhibitions  and  committee  meetings 
in  the  Old  Deer  Park  on  the  last  Wednesday  in  June,  1900,  in  con¬ 
junction  with  the  Richmond  Horticultural  Society.  Mr.  C.  R.  King, 
Honorary  Secretary  of  the  Richmond  Society,  desires  us  to  state  that 
the  Committee  wish  in  future  to  place  their  schedule  in  the  hands  of 
subscribers  and  others  in  the  month  of  January,  and  to  this  end  they 
are  now  preparing  the  1900  issue  for  the  press.  The  assistance  of 
friends  and  supporters  of  the  Society  is  particularly  requested  at  their 
earliest  convenience,  and  all  inquiries  should  be  addressed  to  Mr.  King, 
at  61  and  62,  George  Street,  Richmond.” 
The  above  is  an  extract  from  a  Richmond  paper,  and  conveys 
information  that  cannot  fail  to  be  of  interest  to  the  Fellows  and 
Committees,  especially  of  the  R.H.S.  Practically  it  indicates  an 
entirely  new  departure  on  the  part  of  the  Council,  for,  so  far  as  we  are 
aware,  this  is  the  fust  time  on  which  committees  have  sat  anywhere 
under  the  aegis  of  a  totally  distinct  society.  The  origin  of  this  novel 
course  is,  we  believe,  due  to  a  suggestion  made  by  Mr.  A.  Dean  to 
some  of  the  members  of  the  Richmond  executive  at  the  Richmond 
Society’s  Flower  Show  in  June  last,  and  which  it  seems  has  very 
speedily  borne  fruit. 
The  combination  of  an  ordinary  meeting  of  the  R.H.S.  with 
t>;e  annual  Show  of  the  Richmond  Horticultural  Society  in  the  Old 
Doer  Park  should  result  in  an  unusually  fine  exhibition  there — indeed, 
one  of  unusual  interest.  Presumably  the  local  Committee  undertakes 
to  supply  suitable  tent  and  tabling  accommodation  for  the  R.H.S. 
Committees.  Possibly  generous  arrangements  will  also  be  made  to 
entertain  all  the  members  at  luncheon.  Of  course  that  would  mean  a 
big  thing.  That  the  Committees  would  enjoy  a  meeting  under  such 
enjoyable  auspices  as  the  Old  Deer  Park  affords  there  can  be  no  doubt. 
HYACINTHS  IN  BEDS. 
To  grow  Hyacinths  well  in  beds  the  soil  should  be  rich,  light,  and 
deep.  Supposing  the  soil  of  the  garden  is  a  sound  loam  and  well 
drained,  fix  upon  the  beds  intended  for  these  bulbs  and  exca¬ 
vate  it  to  the  depth  of  15  inches.  Level  the  bottom,  and  place  a  layer 
of  small  stones  or  brick-ends  broken  small,  2  inches  thick.  Cover  this 
drainage  with  2  inches  of  littery  manure;  then  mix  the  soil  that  has 
been  thrown  out  with  soma  well  decomposed  cow  manure,  some  leaf 
mould,  and  plenty  of  river  or  sea  sand,  well  screened.  The  propor¬ 
tions  to  be  one  part  cow  excreta,  one  part  leaf  mould,  to  six  parts  of 
loam.  Should  the  substratum  be  clayey  or  gravelly,  that  part  must 
be  wheeled  away  and  as  much  good  loam  added  as  will  replace  it  ; 
then  mix  the  compost  well  together,  and  fill  the  bed  with  it;  let  it  le 
4  or  5  inches  above  the  former  level,  to  allow  for  settling ;  lay  it 
perfectly  level,  so  that  it  may  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  rain  that 
falls  upon  it.  This  preparation  of  the  beds  should  be  done  immediately. 
If  there  is  time  it  would  be  all  the  better  for  a  turn  over  before  plant¬ 
ing.  I  may  just  remark  that  if  cow  manure  cannot  be  procured  hotbed 
refuse  well  decayed  will  do ;  but  I  greatly  prefer  the  former,  because 
it  is  of  a  cooler  nature,  and,  generally,  has  less  straw  amongst  it. 
The  best  time  for  planting  is  the  third  week  in  October,  though,  if 
the  weather  is  mild,  they  may  be  planted  as  late  as  the  middle  of 
November.  Much  depends  upon  the  weather  and  the  state  of  the 
ground.  It  should  by  all  means  be  moderately  dry,  and  therefore  it 
is  better  to  wait  a  week  or.  two  should  the  season  at  the  proper  time  of 
planting  be  wet.  To  prevent  treading  on  the  bed  at  that  time  lay 
on  it  a  narrow  piece  of  board  long  enough  to  reach  across  it,  or 
have  the  board  strong  enough  to  bear  the  planter’s  weight,  and 
raise  it  up  at  each  end  high  enough  to  clear  the  bed  ;  then 
procure  a  dibbler  to  plant  them  with,  which  should  be 
thick  enough  to  make  a  hole  as  wide  as  the  largest 
Hyacinth  is  in  diameter,  and  the  end  that  is  thrust  into  the  soil 
should  be  cut  across  and  a  mark  made  just  as  far  from  the  bottom  as 
the  bulbs  should  be  covered  with  snil;  the  proper  depth  is  3  inches 
from  the  top  of  the  bulb.  Anybody  with  a  saw  and  a  knife  could 
make  such  a  one.  Having  a  fine  day  and  the  board  and  dibbler  ready, 
then  bring  out  the  bulbs  and  place  them  on  the  bed  just  where  they 
are  to  be  planted.  Each  Hyacinth  should  have  at  least  5  inches  to 
grow  in,  but  6  inches  would  not  be  too  much  space  for  the  leaves  to 
expand,  especially  if  the  same  bulbs  are  to  be  planted  again  the  following 
season.  If  the  colours  are  to  be  mixed  place  them  so  that  the  shades 
will  succeed  each  other  in  rotation,  as,  for  instance,  1,  red  ;  2,  blue  ; 
3,  white  ;  4,  yellow ;  then  5,  red,  and  so  on  till  the  bed  is  full ;  or  if  there 
are  several  beds,  and  it  is  desirable  to  keep  the  colours  separate,  so 
that  one  bed  shall  be  red,  another  blue,  another  white,  and  another 
yellow,  then  plant  them  accordingly.  For  a  geometrical  flower  garden 
the  latter  mode  will  be  preferable.  As  soon  as  one  bed  is  placed  with 
bulbs,  then  fix  the  board  across  at  one  end,  and  proceed  to  plant 
them.  As  the  planting  proceeds  have  some  of  the  compost  ready 
sifted  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  fill  up  the  holes  with  it.  This  is 
much  better  than  levelling  the  holes  with  a  rake,  because  they  are 
when  so  covered  sure  to  be  at  the  right  depth.  When  all  are  planted 
rake  the  bed  very  lightly,  and  the  operation  is  complete. 
The  Hyacinth  is  hardy  enough  to  bear  a  moderate  amount  of 
frost;  but  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  bed  with  about  2  inches  of 
cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  to  be  removed  early  in  the  spring  before  the 
shoots  appear  above  ground.  Where  this  is  scarce,  half-decayed  leaves 
would  answer  the  same  purpose,  or  a  mat  or  two  thrown  over  the 
bed  would  be  sufficient  protection.  These  shelters  are  for  such 
Hyacinth  beds  as  may  be  in  an  ordinary  flower  garden  on  the  lawn, 
or  in  beds  in  a  geometrical  flower  garden,  with  Box  or  other  edgings 
and  gravel  walks.  If  an  amateur  or  florist  cultivates  the  Hyacinth  in 
beds  like  Tulips,  the  beds  might  be  sheltered  with  hoops  and  mats. 
These  kind  of  shelters  can  be  used  when  the  bulbs  are  in  flower  as  a 
protection  from  sun,  wind,  and  heavy  rains.  If  so  protected,  the 
season  will  be  considerably  prolonged. 
As  the  season  of  the  Plyacinth’s  growth  takes  place  during  the 
winter  and  early  spring  it  very  seldom  happens  that  they  require 
much  water  at  the  roots,  but  during  dry  parching  winds  which 
sometimes  occur  in  March,  a  slight  sprinkling  over  the  beds  will  be 
acceptable  to  the  rising  buds.  In  frosty  weather  this  should  be 
applied  in  the  morning  only ;  but  if  there  is  no  appearance  of  frost, 
then  water  in  the  evening  also,  previously  to  putting  on  the  shutters 
for  the  night.  This  sprinkling  may  be  continued  with  advantage  till 
the  blooms  begin  to  expand.  Ae  soon  as  the  flower  is  over  the  old 
stems  must  be  cut  off,  but  not  quite  down  to  the  ground,  the 
covers  removed,  and  as  soon  as  the  leaves  turn  yellow  the  bulbs 
should  be  taken  up  and  laid  on  a  mat  to  dry.  By  being  laid  on 
a  mat  they  can  be  lifted  easily  under  shelter  in  heavy  rains,  which 
would  injure  them  if  allowed  to  fall  upon  them.  When  the 
leaves  are  all  quite^-decayed  trim  them  off  carefully,  without  bruising 
the  bulbs,  and  then  put  them  away  in  a  dry  cool  room  till  the  planting 
season  comes  round  again.  The  general  rule,  however,  is  to  purchase 
fresh  bulbs  every  autumn. — T. 
