October  19,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
343 
ROYAL  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
Scientific  Committee.— Present  :  Dr.  H.  Muller,  in  the  chair  ; 
with  the  Rev.  W.  Wilks,  and  the  Rev.  G.  Henslow,  Hon.  Sec. 
Potatoes,  with  scab, — A  number  of  samples  were  received  with  the 
descriptions  of  the  manures  supplied.  They  were  forwarded  to  Dr. 
Smith  for  examination  and  report. 
Fungus  on  Chrysanthemum,  leaves,—  Some  leaves  badly  spotted  with  a 
brown  fungus  were  received  and  forwarded  to  Dr.  M.  C.  Cooke  for 
further  examination,  who  reports  as  follows  :  “  The  Chrysanthemum 
disease  is  the  ‘rust,’  which  I  refer  to  Uredo  Hieracei  ;  but  I  cannot  tell 
for  certain  until  the  Puccinia  is  found.  I  had  it  two  or  three  years  ago  from 
Slough.  It  is  capable  of  spreading,  and  I  should  destroy  all  the  infected 
leaves  by  burning,  if  sprinkling  with  Condy’s  fluid  proves  ineffective.  It 
is  better  to  sacrifice  the  entire  plants,  than  for  it  to  establish  itself  as  a 
permanent  pest,  like  the  Hollyhock  disease  (P.  Malvacearum),  to  which 
it  is  allied.  It  is  impossible  to  give  the  cause,  but  probably  infection 
from  other  plants.” 
Five-merous  Eucharis, — A  blossom  of  this  plant,  with  its  whorls 
regularly  arranged  in  series  of  fives — most  unusual  for  a  monocotyledon 
— was  received  irom  Mr.  E.  Escombe.  An  examination  revealed  the  fact 
that  it  originated  in  twin  flowers  coherent.  The  stem  a  short  distance 
below  the  base  of  the  inferior  ovary  contained  very  numerous  and 
scattered  fibro-vascular  cords.  Nearer  the  flower  they  became  thirty  in 
number,  and  so  entered  the  base  of  the  twin  ovaries.  These  were  united 
by  a  common  wall,  in  w  hich  two  of  the  cords  normal  to  the  ovaries  were 
suppressed.  Hence  the  superficial  cords  were  now  reduced  to  ten  only. 
This  number,  therefore,  laid  the  foundation  of  the  supply  for  the  four 
whorls  (perianth  and  stamens)  of  five  parts  each.  Apart  from  the  two 
united  ovaries  of  three  cells  each  and  six  rows  of  ovules  in  each  cell,  no 
trace  of  the  twin-origin  was  visible. 
Chrysanthemum  arrested. — Mr.  E.  H.  Jenkins,  of  Hampton  Hill,  sent 
branches  of  the  variety  Madame  Desgranges  in  which  the  majority  of 
the  flowers  were  very  small,  with  yellow  petals  on  short  stiff  branches. 
There  had  been  great  difficulty  in  expansion  from  the  bud.  This  was 
considered  to  be  due  to  the  excessive  drought.  The  later  flowers  were 
nearly  normal  on  slender  pedicels.  It  was  remarked  that  various  kinds 
of  Chrysanthemums  had  behaved  in  the  same  way  elsewhere,  as  well  as 
other  composites,  such  as  Rudbeckias.  The  cultural  care  had  been  quite 
correct,  but  while  one  plant  was  a  failure,  another  in  the  same  pot  was 
normal.  Such  cases  are  not  uncommon,  some  individuals  succumbing  to 
a  disease,  while  others,  under  the  same  conditions,  may  resist  it.  Mr. 
Jenkins  asks  if  the  form  represents  the  original  type  It  dots  to  some 
extent,  being  like  the  double  form  of  the  small  C.  indicum  cultivated  at 
the  beginning  of  the  century,  and  figured  in  the  “  Transactions  R.H.S.” 
It  shows  a  tendency  to  arrest  and  reversion.  The  actual  cause  is 
obscure,  but  it  would  seem  to  be  most  probably  climatal. 
KENT  COUNTY  COUNCIL  POTATO  SHIELD. 
Not  the  least  interesting  feature  of  the  Earm  Eruit  Show  held  at 
Maidstone  on  October  10th  and  11th,  was  the  section  set  apart  for  the 
exhibits  of  Potatoes  in  competition  for  the  above  trophy.  With  the  idea 
of  encouraging  the  culture  of  the  valuable  vegetable  commodity  among 
cottage  gardeners  and  allotment  holders  in  the  county,  the  Technical 
Education  Committee  of  the  Kent  County  Council  has  presented  a  hand¬ 
some  challenge  shield,  open  to  cottagers  and  allottees  who  have  attended 
the  courses  of  horticultural  instruction  given  in  all  parts  of  the  county 
since  1891.  In  each  case  the  centre  is  the  exhibitor,  and  the  collection  of 
Potatoes  is  made  up  by  the  members  of  the  classes.  The  shield  is  to  be 
put  up  for  competition  from  year  to  year,  and  the  name  of  the  winning 
centre  inscribed  upon  it.  On  this  occasion  the  Committee  asked  for  eight 
dishes  of  Potatoes,  to  be  composed  of  one  dish  of  while  and  one  of 
coloured  rounds  and  the  same  in  white  and  coloured  kidneys  or  pebble¬ 
shaped,  and  thirteen  or  fourteen  centres  responded  to  the  call. 
In  a  close  competition  the  men  of  Eccles  distinguished  themselves  as 
the  first  winners  of  the  trophy.  Eccles  is  a  village  situated  in  the  Medway 
Valley,  a  few  miles  from  Maidstone,  and  is  well  known  in  the  county  for 
the  excellence  of  its  garden  allotments.  Individually  and  collectively 
the  Potatoes  in  this  exhibit  were  well  above  the  average,  and  obtained 
74  points  out  of  a  possible  80.  Conspicuous  among  the  varieties  were  the 
Norwich  (9j  points),  a  fine  white  round  Potato,  and  Royal  Sovereign  of 
the  same  class  (7£  points).  Up-to-Date  (9^  points)  was  well  shown 
among  the  white  kidneys  or  pebble-shaped,  as  also  was  Reading  Giant 
(9  points).  For  coloured  rounds  the  centre  depended  on  Milton  Gem 
(10  points),  and  Daniels’  Longkeeper  (9£  points)  ;  and  the  coloured 
kidney  dishes  consisted  of  Peerless  Rose  (10  points)  and  Bashford  Beauty 
(9  points).  Willesborough  with  70£  points,  Hunton  70  points,  Yalding 
66i  points,  Ryarsh  *J3£,  and  Wrotham  58^  followed. 
It  should  be  understood  that  the  Potatoes  in  all  the  exhibits  were  the 
productions  of  cottage  gardeners  and  allottees,  and  many  were  the 
remarks  made  by  the  visitors  on  their  general  excellence.  To  anyone 
conversant  with  the  county  the  competition  was  also  a  means  of 
education,  as  it  was  an  excellent  illustration  of  the  character  of  Potatoes 
grown  in  contrasting  soils  and  localities  in  the  county  of  Kent. 
The  Australian  Peppek  Thee, — The  Australian  Pepper  tree, 
botanically  known  as  Schinus  Molle,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  shade  trees 
of  California.  The  leaves  have  been  found  desirable  for  decoration  by 
Eastern  florists,  and  a  good  trade  in  them  with  California  has  sprung  up. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Gloxinias. 
The  Gloxinia  is  one  of  our  most  useful  bulbous  flowering  plants,  aud1 
during  the  summer  months  I  do  not  think  anything  can  excel  it  for  con¬ 
servatory  or  house  decoration.  Although  the  plants  may  be  had  in 
bloom  all  the  year  round,  they  are,  I  think,  at  their  best  during  the 
months  of  July,  August,  and  September.  In  August  they  are  in  great 
demand  at  our  leading  exhibitions. 
The  Gloxinia  can  either  be  increased  by  cuttings,  leaves,  or  seeds, 
and  my  experience  tells  me  that  seedlings  are  preferable.  By  care  and 
attention  seeds  may  be  sown  and  the  plants  be  got  into  bloom  in  six 
months.  Commence  the  first  sowing  by  the  beginning  of  February,  and 
follow  with  another  sowing  during  the  last  week  in  April.  Great  care 
must  be  exercised  in  sowing  the  seeds,  as,  I  think,  many  failures  are 
caused  at  this  period.  Shallow  pans  ought  to  be  used,  and  these  should 
be  clean  and  well  drained,  with  a  layer  of  moss  over  the  drainage. 
I  find  equal  parts  of  peat,  loam,  and  leaf  mould,  with  the  addition  of 
a  good  sprinkling  of  silver  sand  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve,  suits  them 
admirably.  The  pans  should  be  filled  to  within  half  an  inch  from  the 
rims,  pressed  rather  firmly,  giving  a  good  watering  with  warm  water 
before  sowing.  Distribute  the  seeds  very  thinly,  so  as  not  to  allow  over¬ 
crowding  of  the  seedlings,  which  often  causes  them  to  damp.  Panes  of  glass 
with  moss  on  them  should  be  placed  over  the  pans  until  the  seedlings 
appear  ;  then  remove  them,  allowing  the  seedlings  to  have  as  much 
light  as  possible.  As  soon  as  they  are  fit  to  be  handled  they  should  be 
transferred  to  small  pots,  using  the  same  mixture  as  before.  Place  the 
pots  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass,  but  shade  from  any  outburst  of  hot  sun* 
and  when  they  begin  to  grow  in  the  fresh  soil  they  should  be  syringed 
on  bright  days.  When  they  require  more  root  room  put  in  4^-inch  pots, 
using  the  same  mixture,  with  the  addition  of  some  dried  cow  manure. 
During  the  raising  and  growing  periods  the  plants  require  a  brisk 
heat,  namely,  as  soon  as  the  seeds  ate  sown  the  pans  should  be  placed  in 
a  temperature  of  68°  to  72°.  When  the  seedlings  show  through  the  soil 
remove  the  pans  to  a  temperature  from  60°  to  65°,  which  will  suit  them 
admirably  until  they  begin  to  flower,  at  which  stage  some  growers 
condemn  the  use  of  liquid  manure  at  this  stage,  as  they  say  it  causes  the 
blooms  to  come  deficient  in  colour.  But  I  have  always  made  it  a  rule  to 
use  a  little  twice  a  week,  and  am  of  the  opinion  that  it  does  not  interfere 
at  all  with  their  colour,  when  properly  used.  As  soon  as  they  begin  to 
expami  their  blooms  the  plants  may  be  gradually  hardened  for  the  con¬ 
servatory,  in  which  there  must  be  no  draughts. 
But  when  the  plants  have  finished  flowering,  they  may  be  replaced 
on  a  shelf  in  a  warm  house.  To  ripen  the  tubers  give  a  liberal  supply-  of 
water  until  the  foliage  begins  to  turn  yellow  ;  then  water  must  be 
gradually  withheld  so  as  to  dry  them  off  for  storing  in  some  warm 
corner.  Some  growers  prefer  to  knock  them  out  of  the  pots  and  store  in 
boxes,  but  if  the  pots  are  not  n  eded  I  leave  them  in  the  pots,  and  when 
the  season  comes  round  for  recommencing  I  generally  start  them  in 
their  old  soil,  and  pot  them  later. — W.  L.,  Kings  Weston. 
Chrysanthemums. 
At  present  Chrysanthemums  form  the  leading  feature  of  many 
gardens.  The  blooms  are  alwa\s  useful,  and  I  thought  a  few  cultural 
notes  might  be  of  service  to  my  fellow  readers.  There  are  several  different 
methods  for  rooting  the  cuttings,  but  I  shall  only  refer  to  those  rooted 
in  single  pots.  The  compost  for  this  operation  should  consist  of  equal 
parts  of  good  fibrous  loam  cut  or  broken  in  small  pieces,  and  leaf  mould, 
with  a  good  supply  of  sand  and  old  mortar  rubble  broken  up  fine,  or 
charcoal.  No  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  made  as  to  when  the  cuttings  shall 
be  taken,  as  this  depends  on  the  season,  but  a  very  suitable  period  is 
from  the  thud  week  in  November  to  the  beginning  of  December  if  possible. 
In  securing  the  cuttings  do  not  use  those  from  the  stems  of  the  plants, 
but  from  the  base,  and  cut  them  clear  of  the  soil,  not  having  them  too 
large  and  sappy,  or  they  will  be  liable  to  damp  off  when  confined  in  the 
frame.  The  pots  to  use  for  this  work  are  small  thumbs  thoroughly  cleansed 
and  well  drained,  filling  nearly  to  the  tops  and  made  fairly  firm.  Make 
a  hole  in  the  centte  with  a  dibbler,  fill  with  silver  sand,  and  then  with  a 
sharp  knife  trim  the  cuttings  to  a  joint  and  insert  them  in  the  pots.  There 
are  various  opinions  as  to  the  most  suitable  place  for  rooting.  Some 
prefer  placing  them  on  high  shelves  near  the  glass,  others  in  places 
with  high  temperatures,  but  a  temporary  frame  fixed  in  a  house  which  has 
a  temperature  of  50°  at  night  will  suit  all  purposes,  as  they  will  make 
sturdy  growth  as  they  root.  Be  sparing  with  water  lor  a  time,  lightly 
syringing  on  bright  days,  and  if  the  weather  become  very  sunny  it 
will  be  advisable  to  shade  a  little,  but  not  too  heavily.  Examino  the 
cuttings  daily,  and  on  perceiving  any  damping,  tilt  the  lights  a  little  for 
about  an  hour  at  midday. 
In  tour  or  five  weeks  from  the  time  the  cuttings  were  inserted  they 
should  be  carefully  examined  to  see  if  rooted,  and  those  that  are  must  be 
taken  out  and  placed  near  the  glass  in  a  frame  that  is  heated  and  facing 
south,  so  that  they  may  have  more  air  ;  never  have  the  frame  below  45° 
at  nigbt.  Look  over  the  plants  daily  for  water,  only  giving  to  those  that 
are  in  need  of  it ;  about  midday  will  be  the  best  time.  Be  very  careful 
in  ventilating,  never  allowing  cold  draughts  to  enter  or  they  will  cause 
a  seiious  check.  It  will  be  necessary  w  hen  the  sun  is  hot  to  give  a  slight 
shade  and  also  a  light  syringing.  There  is  one  very  important  thing  to 
study  about  the  stock  at  this  stage,  and  that  is,  always  keep  the  glass 
thoroughly  clean,  or  they  are  liable  to  get  long  and  slender.  Protect  them 
at  nights  with  mats,  and  if  the  frost  is  very  severe  it  is  necessary  to  place 
some  long  litter  on  the  top  of  them. — P.  R. 
(To  be  continued.) 
