November  2.  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
391 
have  the  laterals  shortened  or  removed,  and  the  growths  generally  cut 
back  so  as  to  plump  the  pruning  buds.  It  must  be  done  gradually  in 
the  case  of  vigorous  Vines  which  are  disposed  to  make  a  late  growth, 
checking  their  propensity  by  free  ventilation  constantly,  and  where  the 
wood  is  not  brown  and  hard  the  heat  should  be  turned  on  by  day.  The 
Vines  will  derive  great  benefit  from  the  exposure  to  the  weather  so  long 
as  it  continues  mild,  guarding  against  a  sudden  chill  by  drawing  up  the 
roof-lights  or  closing  the  house  when  the  nights  are  likely  to  be  frosty 
or  w  et. 
Late  Hamburgh  Houses. — The  atmosphere  in  which  thin-skinned 
Grapes  are  hanging  cannot  be  too  carefully  attended  to,  as  the  berries 
are  very  susceptible  to  injury  from  excessive  moisture,  while  if  kept  too 
dry  and  warm  they  are  liable  to  shrivel.  A  gentle  movement  of  the 
atmosphere  will  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  and 
when  ventilation  cannot  be  given  a  little  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes 
will  keep  the  air  in  motion,  and  the  water  will  be  condensed  on  the  glass 
so  long  as  the  external  air  is  cooler  than  that  of  the  house.  A  steady 
temperature  of  50°,  with  a  little  warmth  in  the  pipes,  and  liberal  venti¬ 
lation  on  fine  days,  will  suit  the  Vines  during  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  when, 
unless  the  house  is  well  adapted  for  keeping  them,  the  bunches  may  be 
cut,  bottled,  and  placed  in  the  late  house  or  a  cool  dry  room.  The 
border  must'be  kept  fairly  moist,  or  the  Grapes  will  shrivel  even  while 
the  leaves  are  on  the  Vines 
Late  Houses. — Muscats,  as  a  rule,  have  done  well  this  season,  being  fine 
in  berry,  high  in  colour,  and  excellent  in  quality.  This  is  the  outcome  of 
thoroughly  ripened  wood  and  stored  matter  from  last  year  as  well  as  good 
management  in  the  current  season.  The  Grapes  will  need  a  temperature 
of  50°  to  55°  until  the  leaves  commence  falling,  and  moisture  must  be  kept 
from  becoming  stagnant  by  a  judicious  admission  of  air.  Where  the  Vines 
have  lost  their  leaves  a  slight  shading  may  be  necessary  to  prevent  the 
berries  becoming  brown,  which  is  not  a  tinge  esteemed  at  table  or  in  the 
market.  Only  where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large  and  the  weather  bright 
is  this  advisable,  and  a  single  thickness  of  pilchard  nets  drawn  over  the 
roof-lights  will  be  sufficient  shading.  The  thick-skinned  Grapes  will  still 
improve  in  finish  and  quality,  being  accorded  a  temperature  of  50°,  and 
air  admitted  freely  above  that  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
Though  the  berries  keep  well  enough  in  houses  where  the  outside 
borders  are  exposed  to  the  weather,  it  is  only  when  they  are  high  and  dry, 
for  a  cold  saturated  soil  is  not  without  its  effect  banefully  on  the  Grapes 
as  well  as  the  roots  of  the  Vines.  To  prevent  such  condition,  the  borders 
should  be  covered  with  lights  or  something  that  will  throw  off  deluging 
rains  and  snow.  Give  daily  attention  to  the  removal  of  ripe  foliage  as  it 
parts  from  the  Vines,  keeping  the  house  clear  of  plants  requiring  water, 
and  thoroughly  sweet  and  clean,  removing  all  faulty  berries  as  they 
appear. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus. — Now  that  the  tops  are  fully  matured,  and  the  leaves 
rapidly  falling,  the  stalks  should  be  cut  down  to  within  3  inches  of  the 
ground,  and  these  with  rubbish  and  weeds  generally  be  removed.  Whether 
the  beds  shall  be  manured  at  the  present  time  or  not  ought  to  depend  upon 
circumstances.  In  the  event  of  the  soil  being  naturally  clayey  and 
retentive  of  moisture,  a  heavy  dressing  of  solid  manure  would  do  more 
harm  than  good,  as  it  tends  to  keep  the  ground  colder  and  wetter  than  is 
good  for  Asparagus  roots  at  rest.  For  lighter,  warmer  soils,  which,  it 
should  be  added,  best  suit  Asparagus,  the  dressing  is  correct,  covering 
the  beds  with  3  inches  of  half-decayed  manure. 
Mushrooms. — Mild  weather,  obviating  the  use  of  fire  heat,  is  all  in 
favour  of  Mushroom  beds  in  houses,  and  is  particularly  favourable  to 
those  in  unheated  structures  generally.  The  warmth  that  suits  Mushrooms 
best  is  the  natural  heat  in  the  beds,  and  this  should  be  conserved  as  much 
as  possible,  though  not  to  the  extent  of  unduly  raising  the  temperature. 
When  the  trial  stakes  kept  thrust  in  the  beds  show  a  marked  decline  in 
the  temperature  a  covering  of  6  inches  of  soft  strawy  litter  should  be  at 
once  applied,  this  answering  the  double  purpose  of  conserving  heat  as 
well  as  moisture.  An  occasional  gentle  but  thorough  watering  of  the 
beds  in  bearing  with  tepid  water  is  far  better  than  daily  syringings, 
Any  that  have  already  borne  a  crop  and  are  on  the  dry  side  should  be 
thoroughly  moistened  with  water  impregnated  with  salt,  2  ozs.  to 
3  gallons  of  water  answering  well. 
Forming  New  Beds. — The  manure  ought  to  be  well  prepared  by  fermen¬ 
tation,  the  aim  being  to  get  rid  of  rank  heat  and  foul  gases  without 
robbing  the  manure  of  all  power  of  further  heating.  Manure  allowed  to 
attain  to  a  “white  heat”  in  the  centre  is  practically  spoilt  for  Mushroom 
beds.  When  used  it  ought  to  smell  sweet,  be  just  moist  enough  to  bind, 
but  not  so  wet  as  to  exude  moisture  when  squeezed  in  the  hand.  If 
manure  is  scarce  and  Oak  leaves  plentiful,  instead  of  mixing  the  two  form 
a  solid  hotbed  2  feet  deep  with  decaying  leaves,  and  surface  this  over  with 
prepared  horse  drof  pings  to  a  depth  of  4  inches  or  more.  Insert  lumps 
of  spawn  in  the  usual  way  in  the  manure,  and  either  soil  over  at  once  or 
do  this  three  days  later.  The  genial  and  not  too  drying  warmth  of 
cellars  suit  Mushroom  beds  at  this  time  of  year  as  well  as  in  hotter 
weather,  and  beds  may  be  formed  in  snug  unoccupied  stable  stalls  and 
thatched  sheds.  Always  cover  these  beds  heavily  with  strawy  manure. 
Rhubarb  and  Seakale. — If  extra  early  supplies  of  these  are  required, 
forcing  must  commence  soon.  Top-growth  commences  best  after  the 
roots  have  been  subjected  to  frosts  and  cold  frosty  winds,  and  it  is  advis¬ 
able  to  expose  the  requisite  number  of  clumps  of  Rhubarb  and  roots  of 
Seakale  to  what  frosts  or  frosty  air  may  be  going  during  the  next  week 
or  longer.  Mild  hotbeds  of  leaves  and  manure  are  better  for  forcing  both 
crops  than  dry  fire  heat,  while  progress  at  this  time  of  year  is  slow  in 
Mushroom  bouses,  unless  a  higher  temperature  is  maintained  than  is 
good  for  the  Mushrooms. 
Weeds. — Where  the  hoe  was  not  plied  sufficiently  often  to  keep  down 
weeds  during  the  summer  these  quickly  seeded,  with  the  result  that  the 
ground  is  now  green  with  a  late  crop.  Frosts  may  cut  down  the  more 
tender  of  them,  notably  Groundsel,  but  this  ought  not  to  be  waited  for. 
In  very  dry  weather,  such  as  experienced  during  the  first  three  weeks  in 
October,  the  ground  where  it  cannot  be  dug  may  be  hoed  lightly,  the 
weeds  raked  off  and  wheeled  away,  but  in  many  instances  all  may  be  dug 
or  turned  in. 
Slow  Fires. — The  dry  weather  experienced  this  autumn  ought  to 
have  been  taken  advantage  of  for  converting  accumulations  of  rubbish 
into  a  valuable  heap  of  ashes,  charcoal,  and  charred  earth.  This  material, 
commonly  known  as  “burn  bake,’’  is  admirable  for  mixing  freely  with 
soil  for  fruit  trees.  Carrot  and  other  root  crops,  and  for  surface  dressings 
generally.  The  start  should  be  made  with  a  heap  of  dry  wood,  enclosed 
first  by  heavier  sticks  or  other  wood  that  is  of  no  value  for  other 
purposes,  and  be  then  practically  smothered  with  the  driest  of  the  re’ use 
available,  cased  over  with  soil.  When  the  fire  breaks  through  cover  with 
more  refuse,  attending  particularly  to  this  late  in  the  day  and  again  in 
the  morning. 
m 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
,  i  .  i .  i  .  i  .  i .  i  .  i  - , .  i  -  , .  i  .  r-  v  -~r=~r  -i.i-i-i-i-i-i. 
'A 
Which  System  Gives  the  Greater  Yield. 
Bee-keepers  are  not  slow  to  take  advantage  of  any  system  in 
bee-keeping  that  will  add  to  the  weight  of  honey  obtained,  and  it  may 
he  useful  at  this  season  to  make  a  comparison  between  the  various 
systems  tried,  and  see  how  far  we  are  able  to  improve  on  them  in  the 
future. 
In  the  first  place  we  may  explain  how  the  bulk  of  our  honey  has 
been  obtained,  our  aim  bemg  to  obtain  as  large  a  surplus  as  possible 
with  a  minimum  of  labour.  This  can  only  be  done  by  attending  to 
the  bees’  requirements  at  the  right  time,  as  much  harm  is  done  by 
useless  manipulating.  Run  or  extracted  honey  has  been  obtained 
from  full-sized  standard  frames,  and  also  from  shallow  frames  placed  in 
the  supers. 
For  honey  in  the  comb,  shallow  frames  and  1  lb.  sections  were 
used.  We  did  not  detect  any  difference  in  the  weight  of  honey  from 
the  two  last  systems,  but  for  various  reasons  we  prefer  the  1  lb. 
sections  to  any  other,  as  they  are  in  a  convenient  form,  and  quite 
large  enough  for  use  in  ordinary  establishments. 
It  is  different,  however,  when  we  come  to  extracted  honey.  In 
the  latter  case  the  1  lb.  section  is  recommended  in  preference  to  the 
larger  shallow  frame,  but  for  run  honey  we  still  have  faith  in  full- 
sized  frames  of  standard  size.  If  from  any  reason  the  various  stocks 
of  bees  are  somewhat  weak  when  a  surplus  of  honey  may  be  obtained, 
and  it  is  not  desirable  to  reduce  their  number,  then  a  crate  of  shallow 
frames  would  be  better  than  full-sized  frames.  But  for  full  strength 
colonies  there  is  no  system  that  we  have  tried  from  which  a  greater 
yield  of  honey  can  be  obtained,  with  the  least  amount  of  trouble,  than 
by  using  full-sized  frames. 
Which  is  the  More  Profitable  ? 
A  reply  to  the  query,  Which  is  the  more  profitable  ?  is  partly 
given  in  the  above  notes.  If  a  greater  weight  of  honey  can  be 
obtained  from  any  one  system,  it  is  only  reasonable  to  suppose  that  it 
is  the  more  profitable.  It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  a  greater  weight 
of  honey  may  be  obtained  by  extracting  from  full  sized  frames  tnan 
can  be  procured  from  sections,  which  must  be  left  in  the  hive  until 
every  cell  is  well  sealed  over.  If  removed  before  this  has  taken  place, 
the  honey  will  drip  from  them,  and  they  will  be  quite  useless  for 
packing  to  send  any  distance  from  home. 
This  will  partly  explain  why  a  greater  bulk  of  honey  can  be 
obtained  by  extracting,  as  in  this  case  it  is  not  necessary  for  all  the 
cells  to  be.  fully  sealed  over.  If  a  third,  or  at  least  one-half  of  the 
cells  are  capped  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  extracting  purposes.  The 
honey  in  the  cells  will  be  found  to  be  perfectly  ripened. 
One  word  of  warning  is  necessary  in  extracting  honey.  Always 
extract  in  the  morning,  earlier  the  better.  If  this  is  done  before  the 
bees  commence  their  daily  labour  in  the  fields,  and  care  is  taken  as 
above  advised,  a  much  greater  weight  of  honey  will  be  obtained  than 
could  be  secured  from  any  other  system.  It  is  true  a  little  practice 
is  necessary ;  a  beginner,  however,  will  soon  find  out  when  the  honey 
is  in  the  right  condition  for  extracting. 
We  often  hear,  and  have  questions  about  unripe  honey  which  will 
not  granulate,  but  ferment  before  it  has  been  bottled  many  weeks. 
The  chief  cause  of  fermentation  is  unripeness.  The  nectar  that  is 
gathered  by  the  bees  from  the  flowers  is  placed  in  the  combs.  Afterwards 
it  goes  through  several  processes  before  being  in  good  condition  and 
ripe  for  sealing  over  by  the  bees. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
