414 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
November  9,  1899. 
must  be  either  10  or  12-inch,  having  them  well  cleaned  and  with  a 
fair  amount  of  drainage.  In  potting  place  a  little  soot  on  the  crocks,  then 
some  of  the  rough  pieces  of  loam  to  prevent  the  fine  soil  getting  amongst 
them,  and  it  ought  to  be  made  quite  firm  before  the  plant  is  placed  on  it. 
Spread  out  the  basal  roots  evenly  and  make  all  the  soil  firm,  filling  the 
pots  to  within  about  1J  inch  from  the  top,  thus  allowing  room  for  a 
future  top-dressing.  Never  pot  any  of  the  plants  until  they  require  it, 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  do  not  allow  them  to  become  root-bound.  As 
potting  is  completed  stake  each  plant,  and  stand  in  a  rather  shady 
position  for  a  few  weeks  so  that  they  may  get  a  good  start. 
The  newly-potted  plants  will  not  require  water  for  a  few  days,  but  it  is 
necessary  to  test  them  all  daily.  At  this  stage  syringe  the  plants  twice  a 
day  when  the  weather  is  bright,  but  it  should  always  be  done  in  time 
to  allow  them  to  become  dry  before  night.  A  few  weeks  after  potting  it 
will  prove  beneficial  to  the  plants  if  a  little  weak  soot  water  is  syringed 
on  the  foliage  occasionally. — P.  Ii. 
(To  be  continued.! 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Fruit  Trees. — This  is  the  most  important  work  of  the 
month,  and  should  be  carried  out  with  care  and  dispatch  on  every 
favourable  opportunity.  The  soil  is  best  prepared  some  weeks  prior 
to  planting  trees  and  bushes,  as  it  then  becomes  firm.  This 
desirable  preparation,  however,  is  not  always  practicable  so  far  in 
advance  of  planting,  but  it  must  be  carried  out,  if  the  trees  are  to 
succeed,  before  the  final  planting.  Bastard  trenching  or  double  digging 
is  the  best  method  of  dealing  with  the  soil,  inasmuch  as  it  does  not 
bring  inferior  subsoil  to  the  surface,  but  yet  breaks  up  the  material  to  a 
considerable  depth. 
Introducing  manure  to  the  soil  intended  for  planting  fruit  trees  is 
not  a  commendable  practice,  as  it  is  likely  to  induce  the  formation  of 
strong,  sappy  wood  and  cause  an  over-vigorous  growth.  This  refers  to  a 
fairly  rich  and  fertile  soil.  On  the  other  hand  a  poor  and  light  soil  ought 
in  addition  to  deep  cultivation  to  be  enriched  with  decayed  manure  worked 
well  among  it.  All  soils,  light  lands  especially,  will  be  benefited  by 
mixing  in  wood  ashes  and  burnt  refuse.  For  stone  fruits  lime  also 
should  be  added.  Recently'  prepared  soil  may  be  made  firm  by  treading 
the  surface  when  dry.  The  stations  for  the  reception  of  the  trees  should 
be  prepared  wide  and  shallow. 
Preparing  the  Trees  and  Bushes. — Care  is  necessary  in  preventing 
injury  to  the  roots  of  trees  after  lifting  trom  the  ground.  When  the 
trees  only  require  moving  from  one  part  of  the  garden  to  another 
they  may  be  lifted  with'good  balls  of  soil  and  readily'  planted,  so  as  not  to 
receive  any  check,  or  comparatively  little.  In  the  majority  of 
instances,  however,  newly  planted  fruit  trees  are  these  which  are  pur¬ 
chased.  These  are  necessarily  free  from  soil  abouf^  the  roots  when 
received,  but  if  the  latter  are  carefully  packed  so  as  to  prevent  them 
drying  unduly  they  will  not  be  materially  damaged.  Immediately  the 
trees  are  to  hand  unpack  the  roots  and  lay  carefully  in  moist  soil.  This 
will  have  the  effect  of  stiffening  the  roots  and  fibres.  Prior  to  planting  the 
roots  must  be  examined  so  as  to  discover  all  the  injured  parts,  and  these 
must  be  pruned  smoothly  back  to  healthy  portions.  It  is  well  to  shorten 
long  and  strong  roots,  which  will  induce  them  to  emit  young  fibrous 
roots.  Preserve  all  the  fibrous  portions  found,  and  do  not  allow  any  to 
remain  exposed  to  the  drying  influences  of  air  and  sun.  The  roots 
should  be  cut  with  an  upward  slanting  cut.  Plant  immediately  after  the 
operation,  or  lay  the  roots  in  soil  again. 
Hints  on  Planting. — Some  fine  soil  ought  to  be  prepared  and  placed 
conveniently  for  spreading  among  the  roots  when  planting.  This  may 
consist  of  light  loam  and  burnt  refuse  intermixed.  The  roots  must  be 
spread  out  to  their  full  extent  after  fixing  the  tree  in  position  and  at  the 
right  depth  so  that  the  stem  will  not  be  buried  deeper  than  before.  This 
is  easily  ascertained  by  the  earth  marks  on  the  stem.  See  that  the  holes 
are  wide  enough  for  permitting  the  roots  to  be  spread  out.  In  covering 
and  securing  the  fibres  in  position  spread  the  soil  over  them  from  the 
stem  outwards,  and  they  will  lie  in  the  proper  direction,  otherwise  the 
points  may  be  turned  up  and  perhaps  bent  backwards.  If  there  are  plenty 
of  roots  they  may  be  treated  thus  in  layers,  the  upper  layer  being  covered 
about  4  inches  ;  make  the  soil  firm  about  the  roots,  but  do  not  stretch  or 
damage  them  by  treading.  Trees  which  require  support  should  have 
stakes  placed  to  them  at  once  and  be  secured  with  soft  ligatures  which 
will  not  cut  into  the  bark.  Mulch  the  surface  of  the  soil  over  the  roots 
with  half-decayed  manure. 
Planting  Wall  Fruit  Trees. — Preparing  Borders. — In  preparing  the 
soil  for  trees  growing  on  walls  it  should  be  trenched  2  feet  deep  what¬ 
ever  width  the  border  is  made.  For  growing  large  spreading  trees  on 
free  stocks  the  border  ought  to  be  10  feet  wide,  and  the  wall  of  corre¬ 
sponding  height.  Cordon  fruit  (rees  do  not  need  a  border  so  wide,  6  feet 
being  ample  in  front  of  a  10  or  12  feet  wall,  3  feet  wide  for  a  6  feet  wall. 
Bastard  trenching  is  the  best  method  of  stirring  the  soil.  By  this  means 
the  ground  to  the  depth  of  2  feet  is  well  broken  up,  but  left  in  its  original 
position,  which  is  better  than  bringing  inferior  subsoil  to  the  surface. 
Poor  soil  may  be  improved  by  adding  good  loam  rather  than  manure.  For 
stene  fruits  there  should  be  an  ample  supply  of  mineral  matter  in  the 
soil.  This  demand  can  be  met  with  mixing  in  wood  ashes,  crushed 
mortar  rubbish,  and  crushed  bones.  Dried  and  pulverised  clay  will  also 
improve  light  soils.  The  border  ought  to  be  efficiently  drained  and  made 
firm  before  the  trees  are  planted. 
Planting. — Two  or  three  year  old  trees  are  the  best  to  procure  which 
have  been  trained  and  the  foundation  of  shape  laid.  All  stone  fruits  may 
be  grown  fan-shaped  on  walls,  which  is  the  quickest  way  of  furnishing 
the  space.  Apples  and  Pears  are  best  grown  in  the  horizontally 
trained  form  or  as  upright  or  oblique  cordons. 
Secure  trees  with  plenty  of  fibrous  roots,  and  keep  the  roots  from 
drying  and  shrivelling  before  planting.  Spread  them  carefully  out  in 
the  soil,  first  pruning  the  damaged  roots.  The  base  of  the  stem  may 
be  placed  well  away  from  the  wall  to  admit  of  swelling.  Sprinkle 
prepared  compost  consisting  of  light,  rich  material  over  the  fibres  to 
assist  in  making  a  good  start.  At  first  the  trees  ought  only  to  be  loosely 
secured  to  the  wall,  so  that  the  soil  and  the  trees  will  settle  together  in 
position. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Earliest  Houses. — These  may  be  of  two 
descriptions,  according  to  the  varieties  they  are  planted  with,  and  the 
time  the  fruit  is  required  to  be  ripe.  1,  Very  early  house,  planted  with 
Alexander  or  Waterloo  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  and  Cardinal  Nectarine 
to  have  fruit  ripe  in  April.  2,  Earliest  house  on  the  old  system,  planted 
with  second  early  and  midseason  high-flavoured  varieties,  such  as  Hale’s 
Early,  Dr.  Hogg  or  Early  Alfred,  Stirling  Castle,  Dymond  and  Royal 
George  Peaches,  with  Rivers’  Early,  Lord  Napier,  and  Stanwick  Elruge 
Nectarines  to  have  fruit  ripe  in  May.  To  have  fruit  ripe  at  the  times 
named,  the  houses,  not  before  forced  so  early,  may  be  closed  about  the 
middle  of  this  month,  fire  heat  not  being  applied  until  the  beginning  of 
December.  This  will  allow  the  trees  ample  time,  and  express  forcing, 
having  the  fruit  ripe  in  three  months  from  starting,  is  not  safe,  and  only 
possible  with  potted  trees. 
The  house  should  be  kept  close,  in  the  sense  that  air  in  to  be  admitted 
freely  above  50°,  employing  fire  heat  only  to  prevent  the  temperature 
falling  below  35°.  Trees  that  have  not  been  started  before  will  grow 
gently  and  safely  under  this  treatment,  whilst  those  forced  before  will 
start  freely  at  the  usual  time  without  any  preliminary  excitement.  The 
more  slowly  the  trees  are  excited  the  stronger  will  be  the  blossoms  and 
chances  of  a  good  set  of  fruit.  The  outside  border  should  be  protected 
with  a  few  inches  thickness  of  leaves,  and  a  little  litter  over  them  to 
prevent  them  blowing  about,  so  as  to  exclude  frost.  Inside  borders 
should  have  a  thorough  supply  of  wat  r  if  at  all  inclined  to  dryness,  but 
if  the  lights  have  been  off  and  the  soi  i  has  been  well  moistened  through 
to  the  drainage,  water  will  not  be  rec  uired  for  several  weeks.  Where  the 
roof-lights  have  remained  on  it  may  oe  necessary  to  repeat  the  watering, 
and  if  the  trees  are  weakly,  the  sc  d  friable,  and  the  drainage  good,  a 
soaking  of  liquid  manure  (not  too  •  trong)  will  tend  to  a  more  vigorous 
start  and  growth  afterwards.  S  prinklo  the  trees  occasionally  in  the 
morning  and  afternoon  of  bright  days,  but  do  not  keep  them  dripping 
with  water,  and  only  then  when  t  e  surfaces  become  dry. 
Succession  Houses. — All  the  le  ves  are  off,  except  in  the  latest  house, 
where  they  should  not  be  forcibly  removed,  though  the  trellis  may  be 
sharply  rapped  or  the  trees  brushed  over  with  a  light  broom,  when  they 
part  readily  from  the  trees.  When  they  are  all  off  unfasten  the  trees 
from  the  trellis,  prune  them,  thoroughly  cleanse  them  and  the  house, 
limew&shing  the  walls,  and  if  need  be  paint  the  woodwork  and  trellis. 
Tie  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  leaving  room  for  the  branches  to  swell,  tight 
tying  being  conducive  of  gum.  Remove  the  surface  soil  without  much 
disturbance  of  the  roots  and  supply  fresh  loam,  and  sprinkle  over  it 
4  ozs.  of  a  mixture  of  three  parts  dissolved  bones,  and  two  parts  double 
sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia,  mixed,  following  with  a  moderate 
watering.  If  a  light  soil  use  bonemeal  instead  of  dissolved  bones,  the 
manurial  elements  will  be  held  by  the  soil  and  be  in  suitable  form 
for  the  roots  when  the  trees  start  into  growth.  The  roof-lights 
may  be  removed,  and  be  left  off  until  the  buds  commence  swelling  and 
are  showing  colour  in  the  spring.  This  is  the  best  practice  with  late 
houses,  especially  unheated,  so  as  to  retard  the  blossoms,  otherwise  keep 
the  houses  as  cool  as  possible. 
Fresh  Trees ,  Lifting,  and  Root-pruning. — Trees  for  planting  in  houses 
are  best  two,  three,  or  four  years  trained  to  walls  outdoors,  or  trellises  in 
cool  houses,  and  prepared  for  lifting  by  digging  round  them  a  year 
previously.  Such  trees  can  be  lifted  with  an  abundance  of  fibres,  and 
being  carefully  planted  they  force  well  the  first  season,  not  bringing  them 
on  too  rapidly,  and  taking  a  moderate  crop.  This  is  better  than  selecting 
young  trees  unfurnished  with  bearing  wood,  as  these  cannot  bear  any 
fruit  until  the  second  year,  and  not  much  the  first  three  years  to  do  them 
justice;  hence  the  advantage  of  planting  trees  in  an  already  bearing 
state.  Any  lifting  or  root-pruning  should  be  performed  at  once,  as  the 
trees  will  often  push  adventitious  roots  freely  into  the  fresh  or  moved  soil, 
and  the  cut  roots,  neatly  trimmed  smooth,  form  a  callus  and  push  new 
fibres  quickly  in  spring.  Lifting  and  root-pruning  is  unquestionably  one 
of  the  best  preventives  of  gumming,  and  bringing  trees  not  setting  and 
stoning  their  fruits  properly  into  a  satisfactory  condition  in  those  respects. 
Done  carefully  and  early  (as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen  or  just  before) 
it  does  not  interfere  with  the  following  season’s  crop  of  fruit. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — All  plants  intended  for  early  forcing  should 
now  be  in  fralnes,  with  a  view  to  protect  them  from  heavy  rains,  snow, 
and  severe  frosts  only.  They  ought  to  be  well  raised  up  to  the  glass 
