November  9,  1899.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
415 
and  have  the  pots  plunged  in  ashes,  whence  they  can  be  drafted  into  the 
houses  as  required.  Plants  for  midseason  and  late  forcing  may  be  plunged 
in  ashes  in  a  sheltered  situation,  affording  a  light  covering  of  straw  or 
bracken  in  severe  weather. 
Plants  of  La  Grosse  Sucred  and  Iioyal  Sovereign  or  Vicomtesse 
Hericart  de  Thury  must  be  started  early  in  next  month  to  afford  ripe  fruit 
in  March.  The  plants  should  be  placed  on  shelves  near  the  glass,  or  the 
pots  can  be  plunged  for  a  time  in  a  gentle  warmth  of  65°,  maintaining  a 
top  heat  of  45°  to  50°,  and  ventilating  fully  at  and  above  the  last  named 
degree.  Under  these  conditions  the  plants  push  the  trusses  strongly,  and 
by  the  time  they  are  clear  of  the  crowns,  the  bottom  heat  will  have 
declined,  so  that  the  plants  can  be  removed  to  their  fruiting  quarters 
without  giving  them  a  check  ;  or  it  must  be  effected  by  withdrawing  the 
pots  gradually.  Watering  must  be  judiciously  performed,  and  worms 
expelled  by  the  use  of  clear  lime  water. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
W.  Clibran  &  Son,  Altrincham. —  Tices  and  Shrubs. 
J.  Cocker  &  Sons,  Aberdeen. — Herbaceous  Plants. 
Dicksons,  Limited,  Chester. — Forest  Tiers. 
Little  &  Ballantyne,  Carlisle. — Planters'  Guide. 
W.  Wells  &  Co.,  Earlswood,  Surrey. —  Chri/santhemums. 
J.  Williams,  Mount  Gravatt,  Brisbane. — Fruit  Trees. 
Preparing  for  Spring. 
Bee-keepers  who  have  the  management  of  gardens,  whether  large 
or  small,  have  an  advantage  over  others  not  so  favourably  situated,  in 
being  able  to  grow  a  variety  of  plants  and  bulbs  which  in  their  season 
will  be  highly  beneficial  to  the  bees.  Not  only  will  their  own  bees 
derive  a  benefit  from  them,  but  their  neighbours  who  are  bee-keepers, 
and  whose  stocks  are  probably  a  mile  or  more  away,  will  also  have  a  share. 
The  frost  and  fog  which  were  general  during  the  past  month  played 
havoc  with  the  summer  flowers,  and  partly  from  the  above  causes  and 
the  dry  season  the  trees  are  leafless  earlier  than  usual.  November  is 
always  looked  on  as  the  dreariest  month  of  the  year.  But  bee¬ 
keepers  who  have  a  garden  must  not  be  idle,  as  the  earlier  the  plants 
are  placed  in  their  permanent  position  the  better  they  are  likely  to 
bioom,  as  they  will  at  once  form  new  roots,  and  will  thus  be  able  to 
withstand  severe  weather  when  it  comes. 
At  this  reason  we  prefer  to  make  a  thorough  clearance  of  all 
annuals,  and  also  reduce  any  herbaceous  plants  that  may  have  over¬ 
grown  the  space  allotted  to  them.  Clumps  must  be  lifted  whilst  the 
ground  is  well  manured  and  deeply  dug.  It  is  not  necessary  to  carry 
out  this  operation  yearly,  but  if  manure  or  fresh  soil  is  added  every 
second  or  third  year  a  great  improvement  will  be  observed,  not  only 
in  tl  e  robust  growth  of  the  spring  flowers,  which,  as  before  stated,  are 
so  beneficial  to  the  bees,  but  also  in  the  growth  of  the  summer  ami 
autumn  flowers,  which  will  withstand  the  drought  so  much  better  than 
when  the  soil  is  leit  to  take  its  chance. 
We  prefer  mixed  borders,  as  there  is  always  something  in  bloom. 
Often  these  am  found  near  shrubberies,  where  many  of  our  commonest 
trees  and  shrubs  may  be  planted,  which  are  handsome  in  appearance, 
and  are  valuable  as  aids  to  success  in  bee-keeping.  As  the  laud  is  now 
in  good  condition,  the  first  favourable  opportunity  should  be  taken  to 
make  any  alterations  that  may  be  deemed  necessary. 
What  to  Plant. 
We  prefer  to  plant  large  masses  of  the  showiest  spring  flowers. 
There  is  nothing  more  useful  or  more  admired  when  in  bloom  than 
Wallflowers,  and  if  the  colours  are  kept  separate  when  planting, 
they  have  a  gorgeous  effect.  We  only  use  two  varieties,  the  bright 
yellow,  ot  which  there  are  many  forms,  and  the  dark  red.  The  plants 
are  raised  annually  from  seeds  sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  and 
as  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle  they  are  planted 
out  a  foot  apart.  They  then  form  dwarf  bushy  plants.  They  are 
not  amongst  the  earliest  spring  flowering  plants.  In  the  Midlands 
they  usually  commence  to  bloom  in  April,  and  are  at  their  best  about 
the  middle  of  May. 
Limnanthes  Douglasi  is  often  in  bloom  at  the  same  time  as  the 
above.  It  is  more  often  called  the  Bee  Plant,  owing  to  the  befis 
working  so  freely  on  it.  It  is  a  dwarf  growing  plant,  and  increases 
rapidly  from  seeds  When  once  it  has  btcome  esiablished  very  little 
trouble  ne(d  be  takui  with  it,  as  it  usually  takes  care  of  itself.  It 
should  be  planted  in  the  front  row  to  form  an  edging. 
Arabia  alpina  is  also  of  dwari  habit,  and  is  increased  by  divisions 
after  its  flowering  season  is  over.  It  commences  to  bloom  in  February 
if  planted  in  a  warm  position,  and  will  continue  for  three  months.  It 
is  much  frequented  by  the  btes,  and  is  one  of  the  best  early  flowering 
bee  plants  we  have.  It  provides  pollen  at  a  season  when  it  is  scarce, 
and  it  has  the  advan'age  of  ke  ping  the  bees  at  work  near  home,  which 
is  an  advantage  in  early  spring,  when  many  changes  in  the  weather 
take  place  in  a  short  time.  Nearly  all  the  early  spring  flowers  have 
an  attraction  for  the  bees. 
Bulbs,  too,  may  be  planted  extensively ;  many  of  them  have 
excellent  pollen-producing  flowers,  but  none  more  than  the  different 
varieties  of  the  Crocus.  They  need  not  be  disturbed  after  being 
planted,  as  they  will  increase  at  a  rapid  rate.  Their  great  enemies  are 
mice,  which  should  be  trapped. — AN  English  Bee-keeper. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  8,  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  aud  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
orrespondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects, and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Establishing  Young  Vines  in  a  Muscat  House  ( R .  It.). — Young  Vines 
ai  e  certainly  bitter  when  allowed  to  start  natural  y.  We  should  prune 
ti  e  Vires  intendid  to  be  planted  by  or  before  the  new  year  and  place 
th<*in  in  the  house  they  will  he  planted  in,  which  19  started  in  April. 
When  the  buds  commence  swelling  and  the  Bhoots  me  not  more  than 
an  it  ch  long,  turn  the  Vines  out  of  the  pots,  disentangle  t lie  roots 
cart  fully,  and  plant  without  delay,  not  covering  the  uppermost  roots 
more  than  2  or  3  inches  deep.  Water  moderately  with  tepid  water, 
and  mulch  with  an  inch  thickness  of  sweetened  horse  droppings.  The 
Vines  should  be  lightly  sprinkled  in  the  morning  and  alteinoon  and 
not  overwatered  at  the  roots,  as  this  retards  rather  than  favours  root 
formation.  The  strong  rod  of  Lady  Downe’s  Vine  would  he  a  suitable 
stock  to  graft  with  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  or  even  Canon  Hall  if  desired, 
bottle  grafting  being  the  most  certain  process.  The  Grapes  in  some 
cases  a  tv  finer  on  this  stock  than  on  their  own  roots. 
Apple  from  India  (4.  C.). — The  Apple  arrived  in  a  pickhd  state.  It 
closely  resembles  Norfolk  Beefing — one  of  the  best  of  keepers.  The 
fungus  specks  were  obliterated  by  the  changed  condition  of  the  flesh 
through  the  action  of  spirits  of  wine.  The  fungus  is  probably  the  bitter 
rot — namely,  Glaeosporium  fructigenum — which  most  commonly  attacks 
the  fruit  ns  it  approaches  the  ripening  period,  although  sometimes  at  an 
earlier  stage  ot  development.  The  injury  is  most  likely  to  appear  at  the 
calyx  or  blossom  end  of  the  fruit,  but  it  may  start  anywhere.  It  gradu¬ 
ally  spreads  Irom  the  point  of  infection  throughout  the  tissues,  causing 
brown  and  decay  spots  as  it  progresses,  and  is  distinguished,  when  well 
established,  by’  the  presence  of  small  blackish  pustules  scattered  over  the 
surface  of  the  Apple.  These  are  fruiting  specks  of  the  fungus.  It 
probably  entered  as  a  germ-tube  by  the  eye  of  the  fruit.  The  first  step 
towards  the  successful  prevention  ot  this  parasitic  infection  is  the  removal 
and  burning  ot  all  diseased  fruit.  It  would  be  desirable,  also,  to  rake  up 
and  burn  the  fallen  fruit  and  surrounding  rubbish,  instead  of,  as  is  far 
too  common,  leaving  on  the  ground  to  decay  and  foster  parasitic  germs. 
The  trees  should  be  sprayed  with  dilute  Bordeaux  mixture,  1  oz.  copper 
sulphate,  and  1  oz.  quicklime  to  euch  gallon  of  water — 1,  just  before  the 
leaf  budB  begin  to  swell  ;  2,  just  before  the  blossoms  open  ;  3,  just  after 
the  blossoms  have  fullen  ;  and  4,  repeat  the  application  twice  later  at 
intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks,  it  not  being  advisable  to  use  Bordeaux 
mixture  late  to  early  ripening  Apples.  This  treatment  is  effective  against 
Apple  scab  and  brown  rot,  Monilia  fructigena,  which  often  attacks  the 
fruit  at  setting,  and  enters  the  core.  By  adding  1  drachm  (avoirdupois) 
of  Paris  green  paste  to  the  dilute  Bordeaux  mixture  leal-eating  pests 
may  be  destroyed. 
