484 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
November  30,  1899. 
beauty  of  the  place.  Scenic  tit-bita  of  this  kind  may  be  found  in  any 
number  among  the  mountains,  which  form,  during  the  warm  summer 
months,  a  deservedly  popular  sanatorium,  frequented  by  visitors  from  all 
parts  of  Australasia. — J.  Plummer,  Sydney ,  N.S.W. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Clerodendron  fallax. 
This  much-neglected  native  of  Java  enjoys  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere 
thriving  well  in  a  close  heated  pit.  Its  brilliant  scarlet  flowers  make  a, 
fine  show  throughout  October  and  November,  aud  it  ought  to  be  far  more 
frequently  seen.  To  have  the  plants  in  flower  during  the  above-men¬ 
tioned  months  the  seeds  should  be  sown  by  the  middle  of  April  in  shallow 
pans  and  placed  in  a  warm  house,  covering  them  with  glass  until  the  seed¬ 
lings  appear  through  the  soil,  which  will  be  in  about  three  weeks  from 
the  time  of  sowing.  When  the  young  plants  are  large  enough,  place 
in  thumb  pots  and  grow  them  in  a  temperature  of  75°  by  day  and 
65°  by  night,  rising  with  80°  with  sun  heat.  Syringe  the  plants  morning 
and  afternoon,  and  shade  from  bright  sunshine  at  all  times. 
The  young  plants  should  be  repotted  when  ready,  this  time  into  48’s,in 
which  they  may  flower,  making  the  soil  moderately  firm.  A  suitable  com- 
post  will  consist  of  loam  and  leaf  soil,  with  a  small  quantity  of  peat  and 
sand  added.  With  careful  attention  to  watering  and  ventilation  the 
plants  make  rapid  growth  and  show  signs  of  flowering  in  September. 
From  this  stage  they  make  slow  progress,  but  as  soon  as  the  trusses  com¬ 
mence  to  open  their  scarlet  flowers,  which  appear  extra  bright  at  this 
period  of  the  year,  a  trifle  cooler  and  drier  atmosphere  must  be  main¬ 
tained.  Should  red  spider  appear  the  plants  ought  to  be  carefully 
sponged,  for  this  dreaded  insect  quickly  disfigures  the  handsome  foliage. 
After  flowering,  the  plants  may  be  placed  on  the  shelf  in  a  warm  house 
to  ripen  the  seeds. — Journeyman. 
The  Pleasure  Grounds. 
Pleasure  grounds  that  are  kept  in  a  wild  or  semi-wild  condition,  may 
be  much  improved  and  made  more  attractive  throughout  the  year  by 
the  selection  and  planting  of  a  variety  of  bulbs  and  flowering  plants, 
that  will  adapt  themselves  to  the  conditions  under  which  they  are  placed 
They  will  in  time  naturalise  themselves,  and  be  in  perfect  harmony  with 
their  surroundings.  By  this  means  bare  and  unsightly  places  may  be 
utilised  and  made  pleasing,  for  some  part  of  the  year  at  least ;  while  the 
green  sward  where  mown  only  once  a  year,  might  be  studded  here  and 
there  with  bright  gleams  of  colour.  During  the  greater  part  of  the  year, 
grounds  of  this  description  need  not  be  without  something  to  attract  the 
attention,  other  than  the  trees  and  shrubs,  flowering  or  otherwise,  which 
are  usually  found  in  abundance. 
Coming  with  the  advent  of  the  year,  how  welcome  are  the  Winter 
Aconites,  when  most  other  plants  are  slumbering  in  Mother  Earth  !  These, 
heedless  of  the  cold  cutting  winds,  the  frost  and  snow,  lift  up  their  heads 
and  expand  their  bright  golden  flowers  to  the  light  of  day,  and  when 
planted  in  large  masses,  under  trees  or  on  bare  places,  produce  a  most 
pleasing  effect.  Following  closely  upon  the  Aconites  are  the  Snowdrops 
with  their  flowers  of  pearly  white.  Though  unpretentious  they  have  a 
beauty  all  their  own,  which  is  not  to  be  disregarded  so  early  in  the  year. 
They  may  be  planted  by  the  side  of  the  paths,  amongst  the  grass,  in  any 
or  every  available  spot,  when  they  will  soon  establish  themselves  and  be 
at  home. 
Almost  simultaneously  with  these  come  the  spring  flowering  Crocuses, 
which  will  make  the  grounds  gay  with  their  bright  and  distinct  colours. 
The  individual  flowers  do  not  last  long,  but  they  atone  for  this  by  opening 
in  succession.  Plant  them  in  positions  where  they  will  receive  a  moderate 
amount  of  sun,  and  they  will  create  a  floral  display  which  will  amply 
repay  the  little  trouble  occasioned  in  planting. 
Quite  a  wealth  of  bloom  may  be  obtained  from  the  Narcissi,  which 
are  well  suited  for  planting  in  quantity  in  the  grass,  by  woodland  walks, 
and  under  trees  where  the  shade  is  not  too  dense.  In  such  positions  they 
do  extremely  well,  and  in  addition  to  making  the  grounds  bright,  a  large 
quantity  will  be  obtainable  for  house  and  other  decoration.  The  double 
and  single  forms  may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  not  omitting  N  poeticus, 
which  is  very  effective.  Primroses  and  Forget-me-nots  will  luxuriate 
under  trees  and  in  shady  places,  and  are  well  worth  establishing.  Violets 
maybe  naturalised  amongst  the  grass,  and  many  cool,  moist,  and  partially 
shaded  spots  might  be  found  on  which  to  establish  the  Lily  of  the  Valley. 
Gentiana  acaulis  grows  well  in  some  gardens  planted  by  the  side  of 
walks,  where  the  grass  does  not  get  long  ;  its  beautiful  blue  flowers  are 
in  striking  contrast  with  the  carpet  of  green. 
Somo  species  of  (Enothera  and  Digitalis,  the  rose  and  white  Malva, 
may  be  planted  in  the  background,  and  a  clump  of  some  richly  coloured 
Paeony  has  an  imposing  effect.  The  hardy  Cyclamens  might  be  planted 
on  bare  and  mossy  places,  and  Colchicum  autumnale  may  be  naturalised 
amongst  the  grass.  If  the  ground  partakes  of  a  rocky  nature  a  host  of 
alpine  plants  can  be  requisitioned,  many  of  which  will  succeed  admirably. 
Thus  we  may  aid  Nature  in  making  her  surroundings  beautiful  and 
attractive,  and  that  at  no  large  amount  of  trouble  or  expense. — S.  P. 
Pruning  Forest  Trees  — When,  as  is  often  the  .case,  a  branch 
becomes  broken  from  a  tree,  whether  by  weight  of  foliage  or  the  wind, 
the  wound  should  be  quickly  smoothed  over  so  as  to  prevent  the  ingress 
of  moisture  and  consequent  rapid  decay.  The  non-attention  to  this 
important  point  has  caused  many  of  our  finest  old  trees  to  become  hollow 
and  so  hastened  their  decay. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House  — The  pruning  must  now  have  attention.  Full-grown 
trees  regularly  stopped  during  growth  will,  however,  require  little 
pruning.  Any  shoots  that  have  grown  considerably  should  be  cut  back 
to  about  an  inch  from  the  base  of  the  current  year’s  growth,  and  the 
worn-out  or  decayed  spurs  ought  to  be  removed.  The  terminal  shoots  in 
the  case  of  trees  not  full  sized  must  not  be  shortened  unless  the  extremity 
of  the  trellis  is  reached,  and  the  central  shoots  of  young  trees  will  require 
to  be  cut  back  as  may  be  necessary,  to  originate  those  for  filling  the 
space  regularly.  The  fan  mode  of  training  is  the  most  suitable,  as  it 
admits  of  replacing  any  branch  that  may  fall  a  prey  to  gumming.  The 
house  should  have  a  thorough  cleansing,  the  trees  being  washed  with 
softsoap  solution,  about  3  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  then  dressed 
with  some  approved  insecticide,  applying  it  with  a  brush  ;  do  not  injure 
the  buds.  The  house  must  be  thoroughly  ventilated  until  the  time 
arrives  for  starting  the  trees,  but  it  is  better  if  the  roof-lights  are  off. 
Pines.— Slow  advance  in  a  steady  uninterrupted  manner  should  be  the 
order  at  this  time  of  year,  the  temperature  now  being  lowered  to  its 
minimum  in  each  section,  which,  for  the  fruiting  plants,  should  range 
from  65°  to  70°,  successional  houses  60°  to  65°,  and  for  suckers  55°  to  60°, 
allowing  a  rise  of  5°  to  10°  from  sun  heat.  The  house  containing  the 
fruiting  plants  will  need  attention  in  sprinkling  the  pathways  and  moisten¬ 
ing  other  surfaces  in  the  house  as  thej'  become  dry.  In  airy  and  light 
houses  the  plants  will  need  sprinkling  about  once  a  day,  having  due  regard 
to  the  fruit  and  plants  in  flower.  The  plants  should  be  examined  at 
intervals  of  not  less  than  a  week,  affording  tepid  liquid  manure  liberally 
to  such  plants  as  are  swelling  their  fruits,  but  any  that  are  well 
advanced  therein  and  approaching  the  ripening  stage  should  be  care¬ 
fully  watered,  as  an  excess  may  cause  the  fruit  to  become  black  at 
the  centre.  Afford  the  plants  in  succession  houses  and  pits  a  supply  of 
water  as  needed,  and  to  those  only.  The  plants  in  every  department 
must  be  given  ample  space,  and  the  full  benefit  of  light  in  every  division, 
by  keeping  the  glass  clean. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots. — Attend  to  the  fermenting  material  in  pits 
as  this  settles  down,  but  the  heat  about  the  pots  must  not  exceed  70°,  as  the 
root  action  will  be  steadier  and  the  growth  of  the  Vines  sturdier  than  with  a 
higher  temperature.  Supply  water  carefully  in  the  early  stages  of 
growth,  not  giving  any  until  the  soil  becomes  rather  dry,  then  sufficient 
to  moisten  it  down  to  the  drainage,  not  applying  again  until  there 
is  need.  Keeping  the  soil  constantly  saturated  prejudices  the  emission  of 
roots,  sometimes  destroys  those  present,  produces  a  sodden  and  sour 
condition,  often  resulting  in  shanking  and  bad  finish.  Weak  tepid  liquid 
manure  may  be  given  whenever  water  is  required.  Attend  to  disbudding 
as  soon  as  the  fruitful  and  best  growths  can  be  decided  on  for  retaining, 
the  final  disbudding  being  made  as  soon  as  the  bunches  show,  leaving  the 
more  promising  with  a  surplus  for  contingencies.  Stop  the  growths  one 
or  a  couple  of  joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit,  laterals  below  the  bunch 
at  the  first  leaf,  and  those  beyond  allow  to  extend  without  crowding  the 
principal  leaves.  Where  there  is  little  space  stop  all  laterals  to  one  leaf 
as  produced. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — When  the  buds  in  the  house  started 
at  the  middle  of  the  month  (November)  show  signs  of  swelling,  gradually 
increase  the  temperature  so  as  to  have  it  65°  to  70°  by  day  and  60°  to  65° 
at  night  by  the  time  the  Vines  are  in  leaf,  allowing  an  advance  of  5°  to 
10°  from  sun  heat.  Supply  tepid  water  to  inside  borders  so  as  to  insure 
the  moistening  of  the  soil  down  to  the  drainage,  but  avoid  making  the 
borders  sodden.  Liquid  manure  will  assist  weakly  Vines.  Commence 
disbudding  when  the  bunches  show  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  per¬ 
forming  it  gradually,  ceasing  syringing  the  Vines,  but  maintaining  a 
genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by  damping  the  floors,  walls,  and 
borders  two  or  three  times  a  day. 
Early  Muscats. — Muscat  of  Alexandria,  to  ripen  in  May  or  early  in 
June,  must  be  started  early  in  December.  For  this  purpose  the  roots 
should  be  confined  to  the  inside  borders,  the  soil  of  which  is 
brought  into  a  proper  state  of  moisture  with  tepid  water.  Nutriment 
has  a  great  influence  on  the  presence  and  activity  of  roots,  phosphates 
promoting  their  emission  as  also  does  liquid  manure,  which  may  be 
supplied,  but  not  to  make  the  soil  cold  and  wet.  Commence  with  a 
temperature  of  50°  to  55°  at  night,  60°  to  65°  by  day,  and  10°  to  15°  rise 
from  sun  heat,  sprinkling  the  Vines  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon, 
damping  the  paths,  walls,  and  borders  in  preference  to  keeping  the  roots 
constantly  dripping  with  water.  Young  Vines  that  have  not  been  forced 
early  will  require  bending  down  to  a  horizontal  position  to  insure  an 
even  break  down  to  the  base,  but  old  Vines  may  remain  tied  to  the  trellis 
and  will  usually  break  freely. 
Succession  Houses. — Take  advantage  of  every  opportunity  to  prune 
Vines  cleared  of  their  crops  and  leafless,  thoroughly  cleansing  them  and 
the  structures.  This  is  a  very  important  matter,  and  too  often  relegated 
to  a  convenient  season  to  the  prejudice  of  the  Vines,  their  resting,  and 
freedom  from  insects  in  the  ensuing  year.  Early  pruning  conduces  to  a 
