498 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  7,  1699. 
MALMAISON  CARNATIONS. 
( Continued  from,  page  306.) 
At  one  time  I  was  of  the  opinion  that  Malmaison  Carnations  were 
as  hardy  as  border  varieties,  and  consequently  sent  plants  to  various 
parts  of  the  United  Kingdom  and  Jersey,  as  well  with  the  hope  that 
they  would  thrive  as  to  insure  renewed  energy  and  vigour  for  fresh 
stock.  But  there  has  been  no  favourable  response.  The  only  place 
from  which  information  was  gained  is  the  West  of  Ireland,  and  the 
climate  there  appears  to  be  too  damp  for  them. 
An  idea  presented  itself  that  if  Malmaisons  were  planted  out  with 
the  border  varieties  we  should  obtain  clean  healthy  stock.  Early  in 
the  spring  months  a  row  was  formed  of  Malmaisons,  with  such 
varieties  of  Miss  A.  Campbell,  Countess,  Duchess  of  Fife,  Uriah  Pike, 
Mrs.  Reynolds  Hole,  Raby  Castle,  and  others.  The  plants  were 
turned  out  of  4-inch  pots,  and  experienced  from  9°  to  14°  of  frost  for 
several  nights  in  succession.  The  Malmaisons  looked  sick,  and  we 
lost  all  hope  of  their  doing  any  more  good.  It  touched  the  border 
varieties,  but  not  to  the  same  extent,  except  those  that  had  com¬ 
menced  growth  in  the  frames  before  planting.  When  frost  had  passed 
away,  and  genial  weather  followed,  we  planted  other  Malmaisons 
with  those  previously  inserted,  and  the  later  planted  ones  for  a  time 
certainly  looked  the  better  stock  ;  but  in  spite  of  watering  they  did 
not  grow  as  strongly  as  the  early  planted  ones.  This  demonstrated 
the  hardiness  of  Malmaison  Carnations.  Nothing  can  be  said  of  the 
flowering,  because  the  flower  stems  were  removed. 
We  promptly  concluded  that  this  method  would  certainly  result  in 
strong,  healthy,  robust  grass  for  layers,  to  add  that  strength  and 
constitution  to  the  plants  grown  indoors  that  is  essential  to  the  best 
results.  The  “  grass,”  which  was  exceptional  for  .strength  and  vigour, 
was  layered  early  in  the  season.  The  layers  rooted  freely,  and  we 
were  charmed  by  their  appearance,  and  concluded  the  much  desired 
object  had  been  accomplished.  For  the  sake  of  comparison  it  may  be 
said  that  the  growth  of  Princess  of  Wales  outdoors  was  equally  as 
strong  as  that  of  Mrs.  E.  Hambro  in  its  strongest  condition.  The 
rooted  plants  were  in  due  time  lifted,  potted,  and  treated  the  same  as 
we  have  always  treated  our  young  stock,  but  with  results  the  reverse 
of  satisfactory.  They  barely  began  to  root  until,  they  displayed 
unmistakeable  signs  of  disease,  which  increased  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  plants  eventually  found  a  resting-place  on  the  rubbish  heap. 
It  is  intended,  however,  though  this  plan  proved  a  failure,  to  try 
another  year  a  collection  under  old  lights.  The  flower  spikes  will  be 
removed  to  favour  earlier  layers,  and  the  plants  can  be  protected  from 
heavy  rains  until  they  are  lifted  and  established  in  pots.  Time,  of 
course,  will  decide  whether  this  will  answer  or  not. 
Let  us  now  return  to  the  plants  that  have  been  layered  in  frames 
from  ins'de  grown  stock  until  (hey  are  thoroughly  rooted  with  good 
balls  of  soil  attaching  to  them.  These  are  most  carefully  lifted, 
ignoring  any  small  or  weakly  layers,  and  are  placed  singly  into 
perfectly  clean  and  dry  4-inch  pots.  Crocking  is  very  carefully  done, 
one  large  piece  being  placed  at  the  base,  hollow  side  downwards,  and 
this  is  covered  with  small  pieces  of  a  smaller  size.  Portions  of  broken 
pots,  bricks,  charcoal,  cinders,  or  gravel  will  do,  provided  they  are 
clean  and  certain  to  provide  perfect  drainage.  Over  the  drainage 
should  be  placed  a  thin  layer  ol  moss,  or  the  roughest  portion  of  the 
compost.  We  have  used  the  dyed  French  moss  from  the  room  and 
dinner  table  decorations,  but  it  proved  distinctly  detrimental  to  the 
growth  of  the  plants. 
I  have  proved  by  experience  that  Malmaison  Carnations  are  not  so 
particular  about  soil  as  some  people  imagine.  When  struggling  to 
grow  Malmaisons  we  were  often  told  that  until  loam  from  certain 
southern  counties  was  procured  success  would  never  be  ours.  This, 
however,  was  too  expensive,  and  we  now  know  that  where  fair  loam 
can  be  obtained  it  will  answer  the  purpose  very  well.  Bedfordshire 
sand  was  said  to  be  another  essential,  but  railway  and  cartage  rendered 
this  prohibitive.  Estate  sand  only  cost  the  digging  an  I  carting  a 
short  distance,  and  although  fine  and  slightly  yellow  answers  the 
purpose  admirably. 
The  loam  here  is  light  and  inclined  to  be  sandy,  but  it  varies 
according  to  the  position  on  the  es  ate  from  which  it  is  obtained.  That 
at  present  in  use  is  very  light  and  fibrous.  It  is  over  gravel,  and  if 
we  pare  more  than  inch  deep  we  are  on  the  gravel,  into  which  none 
of  the  fibre  enters.  This  is  cut,  if  possible^  while  in  an  intermediate 
state  for  moisture,  stacked  until  the  grass  is  dead,  and  then  it  is  fit 
for  use.  If  we  run  short  the  grass  is  skinned  off  and  then  cut  1  inch 
deep  for  immediate  use.  With  this  loam  clay,  which  is  excellent  here, 
is  incorporated.  Some  of  it  is  of  a  marly  nature,  and  this  is  preferred 
to  mix  with  the  loam.  A  load  or  more  is  procured  according  to 
requirements,  and  if  the  weather  is  favourable  it  is  spread  to  dry, 
when  it  is  reduced  to  powder.  In  this  condition  it  incorporates 
splendidly  with  the  loam.  When  none  in  this  state  has  been  at 
command  a  little  has  been  scattered  on  the  surface  after  potting,  to  be 
washed  down  by  subsequent  wateringF. 
The  loam  and  clay  form  three  parts  of  the  compost,  the  other  part 
being  sand,  leaf  mould  (gathered  from  the  woods  naturally  made,  not 
stored  to  heat  and  have  the  fibre  destroyed),  with  about  one  6-inch 
potful  of  soot  to  each  barrowload  of  loam.  Artificial  mixtures  are 
occasionally  used,  but  neither  these  nor  natural  manures  are  required 
at  this  stage,  the  soot  being  quite  sufficient.  When  used  for  potting 
the  compost  should  be  in  an  intermediate  state  for  moisture,  as  this 
allows  water  to  be  withheld  for  some  days  after  potting,  so  that  all 
damaged  roots  have  a  chance  to  heal,  whereas  when  watered  directly 
the  damaged  roots  decay  and  the  plants  are  a  long  time  before  they 
recover  from  the  potting. 
The  soil  must  be  pressed  firmly  in  the  pots,  and  whether  they  are 
placed  in  a  house,  pit,  or  the  frame  in  which  they  have  been  layered, 
they  should  stand  on  a  moisture-holding  base,  such  as  coal  ashes,  sand, 
cocoa-nut  fibre'refuse,  or  gravel.  The  syringe  must  be  used  amongst 
the  pots  once  or  twice  daily  according  to  the  weather,  not  necessarily 
sprinkling  the  foliage,  although  this  may  be  done  occasionally  if  the 
weather  prove  hot  and  dry.  The  plants  ought  to  be  shaded  from 
strong  sun;  a  few  hours  during  the  day  only  may  be  necessary.  As 
soon  as  they  will  stand  exposure  to  full  sunshine  shading  must  be 
discontinued.  For  the  first  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  they  may  be  kept 
fairly  close,  until,  in  fact,  root  action  has  freely  commenced,  after 
which  air  should  be  admitted  and  increased  until  it  can  be  given 
abundantly  to  maintain  sturdy,  healthy  growth,  and  a  robust 
constitution. — Wm.  Bardney,  Osmaston  Manor,  Derby. 
(To  be  continued.) 
VEGETABLES  FOR  EXHIBITION  AND  HOME.* 
Though  the  culture  of  vegetables  has  ever  been  regarded  in 
private  establishments  as  of  primary  importance,  it  may  safely  be  said 
that  it  has  not  previously  had  the  prominence  with  which  it  is 
regarded  at  the  present  day.  The  times  have  changed,  and  as  a 
natural  consequence  men  and  things,  too,  have  altered.  Years  ago  the 
production  of  splendid  trained  plants  in  pots  was  of  paramount  interest, 
as  was,  by  other  growers,  the  training  of  fruit  trees  on  walls,  and  in 
both  these  cases  such  a  standard  excellence  was  attained  to  as  is 
seldom  reached  nowadays.  This,  however,  is  a  utilitarian  age,  and 
perhaps  few  regret  the  decadence  of  the  trained  specimen  flowering 
plants  ;  they  have,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  given  way  to  stock  that  from  all 
points  of  view  is  infinitely  more  useful  to  the  gardener.  Whether  the 
more  haphazard  method  of  training  fruit  trees  that  now  largely 
prevails  is  an  unmixed  blessing  is  a  moot  point,  and  one  which  need 
not  now  be  discussed.  These  two  examples  are  adduced  to  illustrate 
the  changes  that  the  years  must  ever  bring  in  their  wake,  and  in 
vegetable  culture  we  find  a  third. 
Recognising,  then,  the  immense  interest  and  enthusiasm  that  have 
settled  in  vegetable  culture,  it  cannot  be  a  matter  for  surprise  to  see 
books  more  or  less  varied  in  character  coming  before  the  gardening 
public  in  an  ever  flowing  stream.  Some  of  these  deal  with  special 
departments  of  the  vegetable  garden;  while  others  pass  the  whole 
routine  in  view,  and  give  sound  advice  in  slightly  different  forms. 
Amongst  the  last  to  bid  for  public  favour  in  the  world  of  bcokdom  is 
Mr.  Edwin  Beckett,  whose  volume  is  now  before  us.  The  writer’s 
qualifications  a3  a  cultivator  of  vegetables  are  written  in  the  reports  of 
shows  during  the  past  few  years,  and  the  curious  may  find  in  the 
pages  of  the  gardening  press  such  matter  as  will  convince  them  that 
if  Mr.  Beckett  can  preach  as  well  as  he  can  practise,  then  must m  be 
a  very  master. 
The  author’s  style  of  writing  is  terse,  light,  pleasing,  yet  con¬ 
vincing,  and  if  in  some  cases  his  suggested  details  are,  to  many 
growers,  impossible  of  adoption,  simply  from  lack  of  materials  and 
time,  in  other  instances  his  immediate  subject  would  have  benefited 
from  expansion.  The  chapter  on  the  important  subject  of  exhibiting, 
for  example,  is  peculiarly  interesting,  and  the  details  might  well  have 
been  amplified,  especially  when  we  remember  that  the  staging  of 
vegetables  hag  not  yet,  except,  perhaps,  with  the  very  few,  reached  a  high 
standard.  The  arrangement  unquestionably  has  an  important  bearing 
on  the  results,  and  regular  visitors  at  exhibitions  will  be  able  to 
re-echo  the  author’s  words  when  he  says,  “I  have  often  noticed 
instances  in  which  the  awards  would  have  been  different  had  the 
exhibitors  of  the  badly  arranged  displays  bestowed  more  care  and  time 
upon  them.” 
Mr.  Beckett  in  this  chapter  carries  the  reader  back  to  his  first 
plunge  in  the  exhibition  arena  with  vegetables  in  London,  and 
aspirants  will  do  well  to  study  the  remarks  which  we  give  beneath. 
I  well  remember  the  first  time  I  staged  vegetables  at  an  exhibition  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society,  held  at  South  Kensington,  when  some 
valuable  prizes  were  offered.  I  had  previously  shown  several  times  locally, 
and  with  much  success,  and  naturally  thought  my  produce  was  good 
*  “Vegetables  for  Exhibition  and  Home  Consumption,”  by  Edwin  Beckett. 
London,  Simpkin,  Marshall,  Hamilton,  Kent  &  Co.,  Ltd.  Price  3s.  6d. 
