December  7,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
507 
and  if  need  be  rectified,  washing  the  pots  quite  clean,  and  given  a  top¬ 
dressing  of  some  approved  fertiliser,  about  half  a  teaspoonful  if  a  powerful 
one,  or  a  full  measure  if  not  highly  concentrated,  to  each  pot.  This  may 
be  supplemented,  if  there  be  space  in  the  pots,  with  a  little  fresh,  rich 
soil. 
A  temperature  of  50°  by  artificial  means  is  ample  to  begin  with,  venti¬ 
lating  freely  at  55°,  and  not  allowing  an  advance  to  or  above  65°  without 
full  ventilation.  Sprinkle  the  plants  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon 
of  bright  days,  omitting  it  if  dull,  but  a  genial  atmosphere  should  be 
maintained  by  damping  the  floor  and  walls  occasionally,  Water  will  only 
be  required  at  the  roots  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  a  very  wet  condition 
being  quite  as  inimical  as  allowing  the  plants  to  suffer  through  want  of 
water. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Winter  Pruning  Fruit  Trees. — The  operations  connected  with  the  winter 
pruning  of  fruit  trees  and  bushes  should  be  carried  out  on  every  favourable 
opportunity,  hence  it  is  necessary  to  make  an  early  commencement, 
because  after  the  leaves  have  fallen  there  is  nothing  gained  by  allowing 
superfluous  wood  to  remain  on  the  trees,  though  Apricots,  Peaches,  and 
Nectarines  on  walls  may  with  advantage  be  left  until  February.  Goose¬ 
berries,  too,  are  frequently  left  unpruned  until  the  same  month  if  they 
are  unusually  liable  to  have  their  shoots  denuded  of  buds  by  birds. 
Rank  and  overgrown  bushes,  however,  ought  to  have  a  preliminary 
reduction  of  some  of  the  most  crowded  parts  now,  and  a  final  thinning- 
out  later. 
Pyramid  and  Bush  Trees. — If  the  branches  of  these  forms  of  trees 
were  properly  originated  at  distances  sufficiently  wide  to  prevent  over¬ 
crowding  when  fully  furnished  with  spurs,  there  will  be  no  branch  prun¬ 
ing  to  carry  out.  It  invariably  happens,  however,  that  too  many  main 
branches  are  encouraged  from  the  first,  and  when  the  time  arrives  at 
which  the  superfluous  extensions  can  be  dispensed  with,  the  opportunity 
is  often  lost,  because  the  trees  being  leafless  look  sufficiently  thin.  The 
principal  branches  must  not  bo  originated  closer  than  a  foot.  This  is  not 
too  much  space  to  allow  of  the  spurs  extending,  and  in  some  cases  more 
room  ought  to  be  given  The  thinning-out  of  the  branches  ought  to  be 
attended  to  first,  next  thin  out  the  clumps  of  spurs,  and  shorten  back  any 
fchat  are  elongated.  The  side  shoots  or  current  year’s  growths  may  be 
shortened  to  two  buds,  the  shoots  having  previously  been  summer  pruned 
to  the  sixth  leaf.  The  leading  shoot  on  each  branch  may  also  be 
shortened,  leaving  it  a  foot  in  length  if  extension  of  the  branch  is 
required.  It  not,  prune  back  closely.  Gross  or  sappy  shoots  which  may 
be  found  issuing  from  the  main  branches  in  any  part  of  the  trees  must  be 
cut  out  entirely. 
Cordon  Trees  — The  chief  winter  pruning  consists  in  managing  the 
side  shoots,  and  not  overcrowding  the  branches  with  spurs.  It  is  impos¬ 
sible  to  crowd  the  branches  of  cordon  trees  if  not  planted  too  closely 
in  the  first  instance.  If  any  are  found  with  branches  closer  together  than 
a  foot,  every  other  one  should  be  taken  out.  Check  the  elongation  of 
spurs  so  as  to  keep  the  fruit  buds  near  to  the  main  branch.  Shorten  the 
side  growths  to  two  buds,  and  only  shorten  the  leader  when  the  full 
extent  of  space  is  filled.  When  the  trees  exhibit  signs  of  exuberant 
growth  which  cannot  be  checked  by  summer  and  winter  pruning,  the 
best  plan  is  to  lift  and  root-prune. 
Open  Bush  Trees. — This  form  of  fruit  tree  is  invariably  more  fruitful 
than  restricted  trees,  as  they  are  not  subjected  to  a  formal  style  of 
training,  yet  they  are  not  allowed  to  grow  with  unrestrained  freedom. 
Branches  must  be  taken  out  whenever  they  are  growing  too  near  each 
other  so  that  sun  and  air  are  prevented  reaching  the  buds  and  leaves 
in  summer.  This  is  the  chief  form  of  pruning  these  trees,  namely 
thinning  out  the  branches.  If  the  trees  are  maintained  in  this  condition 
fruit  buds  will  form  readily,  and  there  will  be  few  side  shoots  extending. 
These  may  be  shortened  back  in  the  usual  way,  in  order  that  they  may 
form  spurs. 
Standard  Trees. — In  standard  and  half-standard  trees  there  should  be 
no  shortening  of  growths  whatever  practised.  All  branches  removed 
must  be  taken  off  close  to  the  stem  from  which  they  originate,  and 
attention  paid  the  following  season  in  rubbing  or  cutting  out  any  growths 
which  may  spring  from  the  parts  where  the  cutting  has  been  done, 
because  if  this  is  allowed  it  may  choke  the  trees  again  with  undesirable 
growth.  The  best  time  to  thin  out  standard  trees  is  before  the  leaves  fall, 
as  it  is  then  more  readily  seen  which  are  the  proper  growths  to  remove. 
However,  much  good  results  from  winter  pruning. 
Wall  Trees. — Exhausted  or  worn-out  branches  should  be  cut  out  of 
Apricots,  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Any  other  fan-trained  trees  growing 
on  walls  may  be  pruned  and  regulated,  laying  in  young  shoots  to  fill  up 
vacancies.  Horizontally  trained  Pear  trees  on  walls  must  have  the 
branches  thinned  if  they  happen  to  be  so  thickly  placed  that  spurs 
overshadow  one  another.  In  pruning  and  training  young  trees  on  walls 
take  special  care  that  main  branches  have  ample  space  between  them, 
bearing  in  mind  the  space  required  for  the  accommodation  of  the  spurs 
when  the  bunches  are  well  furnished.  The  old  bearing  shoots  of  Morello 
Cherries  may  be  cut  out,  also  weak  shoots,  training  in  young  shoots  a 
few  inches  apart,  leaving  them  full  length. 
Gooseberries  and  Red  and  White  Currants  grown  aB  cordons  on  north 
walls  may  be  pruned  as  soon  as  convenient,  as  they  are  usually  safe 
from  attacks  by  birds  in  these  positions.  After  the  pruning  lightly  fork 
over  the  ground,  but  not  deeply  so  as  to  injure  the  fibrous  roots,  and 
apply  a  dressing  of  decayed  manure.  In  extending  the  young  cordon 
branches  of  Gooseberries  and  Currants  it  is  best  to  shorten  the  leading 
growth  of  each  to  about  10  inches  at  the  winter  pruning,  otherwise  side 
shoots  will  not  develop  regularly  on  the  lower  parts.  This  is  a  slow 
but  certain  way  of  furnishing  the  branches  with  spurs.  In  some  cases 
the  leader  may  be  left  longer,  but  usually  not  more  than  a  foot. 
Shorten  side  shoots  to  the  lowest  buds. 
Seasonable  Notes. 
The  past  fortnight  has  been  extremely  mild.  This  is  the  third 
successive  autumn  that  fine  weather  has  prevailed.  'The  last  ten  days 
of  November,  1898,  were  showery,  and  the  only  snow  we  saw  during 
the  wiuter  fell  during  that  time.  This  year  it  has  been  dry  and  the 
temperature  high.  The  sun  has  shone  brightly  on  several  occasions, 
and  bees  were  daily  on  the  wing,  reminding  one  of  April  instead 
of  what  is  looked  on  as  the  dullest  month  of  the  year.  What  effect 
will  this  have  on  the  bees  ?  If  one  may  form  an  opinion  from  the 
number  seen  on  the  floor  board  and  flying  during  the  middle  of 
the  day  we  are  inclined  to  say  it  is  not  possible  to  have  stocks  in  better 
condition  at  this  season  than  thty  are  at  the  present  time. 
Although  the  weather  has  been  so  favourable,  and  the  majority 
of  the  colonies  are  doubtless  in  good  condition,  they  must  not  be 
neglected,  as  a  sudden  change  in  the  temperature  may  be  expected  at 
any  time.  If  from  any  cause  extra  coverings  have  not  been  placed 
over  the  frames,  it  should  not  be  delayed  any  longer.  There  is 
warmth  in  paper,  so  there  need  be  no  excuse  for  not  keeping  them 
warm.  Cushions  made  of  cork  dust  make  one  of  the  best  protectors. 
When  recently  examining  an  apiary  at  a  farmhouse  we  found 
each  frame  hive  prepared  for  winter  in  a  very  snug  manner.  Each 
had  a  pad  of  straw  neatly  sewn  together  with  fine  string  placed  over 
the  usual  coverings  which  kept  the  inmates  in  an  even  temperature 
throughout  the  winter.  The  straw  skeps,  of  which  there  was  a  great 
number,  were  all  neatly  thatched  with  the  same  material,  which  had 
the  effect  of  keeping  them  warm  and  throwing  off  the  moisture.  This 
is  in  marked  contrast  io  the  skeps  often  seen  in  country  districts 
without  any  protection  whatever,  except,  it  may  be,  a  dilapidated 
zinc  skep  or  a  couple  of  broken  tiles.  Protection  and  warmth  is  of 
as  much  importance  as  ample  stores,  as  without  the  former  the  latter 
is  of  little  use  to  them. 
Covering  Straw  Skeps. 
Whilst  on  the  subject  of  protection  and  warmth,  it  may  be 
interesting  to  bee-keepers  who  still  have  the  time-honoured  straw 
skep  to  know  how  to  cover  them  neatly,  so  that  they  may  be  both 
rain  and  frost  proof.  We  cannot  do  better  than  describe  how  they 
were  done  in  the  above  well  managed  apiary.  The  covering  was  made 
with  Wheat  straw,  and  it  certainly  answered  the  purpose  admirably. 
'Phis  is  done  by  taking  sufficient  straw  in  one  hand  to  cover  the  skep. 
The  ears  should  be  placed  evenly  together,  and  held  with  one  hand, 
quite  firmly,  whilst  the  short  s' raws  are  combed  out  with  the  other,  a 
broken  wooden  rake  or  something  similar  is  excellent  for  this  purpose. 
The  straw  is  then  fastened  tightly  with  string  or  fine  wire  just 
beneath  the  ears,  a  few  inches  from  the  top.  Then  open  the  bundle 
of  strawT  in  the  middle,  and  place  it  on  the  skep  so  that  the  straw 
hangs  evenly  round  it.  Place  a  hoop  of  wood  or  iron  round  the 
middle  of  the  skep,  as  this  will  keep  the  cover  in  position  and  prevent 
the  wind  from  blowing  it  away.  The  ends  of  the  straw  covering 
should  be  neatly  cut  so  that  they  hang  a  few  inches  below  the  floor 
board,  as  this  will  cause  the  moisture  to  drop  clear  of  the  hive.  The 
few  straws  that  hang  directly  over  the  alighting  board  may  be  cut 
away  so  that  the  bees  can  gain  admittance  to  their  hive,  and  also 
afford  ventilation. 
Many  bee-keepers  keep  a  few  straw  skeps  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
early  swarms,  as  they  invariably  winter  well  if  the  colony  is  headed 
by  a  young  fertile  queen,  which  was  well  supplied  with  stores  the 
previous  autumn.  Some  of  our  well-known  hive  makers  recognise 
this  fact,  and  make  a  bar  frame  hive  with  wood  and  straw  combined, 
and  from  the  experience  we  have  had  of  them  they  are  well  adapted 
for  the  purpose  for  which  they  were  intended,  combining  warmth  in 
winter  and  coolness  in  summer. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
Flowers  FOR  Bees. — I  observe  on  page  485  that  your  contributor, 
“  An  English  Bee-keeper,”  recommends  Colchicum  autumnale  as  a  flower 
which  should  not  be  omitted  from  those  grown  for  bees.  I  venture  to  ask 
him  if  he  has  observed  that  dead  bees  are  often  found  in  these  flowers, 
though  but  seldom  in  those  of  any  of  the  true  Crocuses  At  one  time  i 
was  disposed  to  attribute  the  death  of  the  bees  to  the  cold  of  the  season, 
but  I  am  now  inclined  to  think  that  it  may  be  due  to  the  poisonous 
properties  of  the  Colchicums.  I  would  suggest  that  Crocus  t peciosus  and 
C.  longiflorus  be  substituted  for  the  Colchicums  by  those  who  keep  bees. 
The  two  would  give  a  succession  which  would  give  pollen  for  a  longer 
time  than  the  Meadow  Saffrons.  There  are  other  species,  such  as 
C.  nudiflorus. — 8.  Arnott. 
