JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  14,  1899. 
f»14 
a  fine  spreading  head  as  a  standard,  in  alternate  years  giving  a 
heavy  crop  of  handsome  fruit.  Possibly  it  was  a  seedling  Blenheim 
without  any  authenticated  record. — W.  S. 
EVERGREEN  SHRUBS  FOR  TOWN  GARDENS. 
As  the  winter  months,  when  the  weather  is  dry  and  favourable 
and  the  soil  works  readily,  afford  a  suitable  time  to  plant  bushes  of 
various  evergreen  shrubs,  a  few  remarks  on  some  of  the  most  popular 
and  free-growing  kinds  adapted  for  growing  near  towns  may  be  of 
service  to  intending  planters. 
Before  naming  the  best  kinds  for  this  purpose  it  may  he  well  to 
point  out  that  the  more  thorough  and  complete  the  preparation  of  the 
soil  before  planting  the  better  will  be  the  growth,  and  the  sooner  will 
the  shrubs  be  fully  established.  Evergreen  shrubs  do  not  produce 
good  effects  unless  the  growth  is  thoroughly  healthy.  Deep  cultivation 
is  recommended  because  of  the  freer  run  for  the  roots  which  it  affords, 
and  the  retention  of  moisture  in  the  upper  layer  of  soil  which  the 
particles  are  able  to  gather  from  the  subsoil  by  reason  of  it  being 
worked  and  broken  up  instead  of  a  hard  inert  mass. 
Though  large  bushes  of  many  kinds  lift  and  transplant  well  if  the 
work  is  carefully  carried  out,  and  the  plants  have  plenty  of  fibrous  roots, 
yet  comparatively  small  specimens  are  the  best  to  deal  wilh,  and 
should  be  emplojed  if  size  is  no  object.  The  roots  injured  in  lifting 
the  plants  ought  to  be  pruned  smoothly,  especially  in  the  case  of  any 
specimens  sparingly  furnished  with  fibrous  roots.  Make  the  holes 
large  enough  so  as  to  well  spread  out  the  roots  and  plant  the  same 
depth  as  before.  Give  each  shrub  plenty  of  room,  judging  not  only 
for  the  present  but  the  space  it  will  require  in  the  future.  The  best 
shrubs  must  necessarily  become  spoiled  when  crowded.  Shrubs  of  a 
spreading  habit  need  abundant  space  when  they  have  become 
thoroughly  established.  Compact  growing  specimens  may  be  planted 
closer,  but  nothing  is  lost  by  affording  plenty  of  space.  Some  less 
valuable  but  yet  attractive  shrubs  may  be  used  to  temporarily  furnish 
vacant  spaces  and  give  a  finished  appearance,  though  it  ought  to  be 
understood  that  they  are  only  acting  as  nurses,  and  should  be  removed 
as  the  permanent  plants  develop  and  need  the  space.  ^ 
The  species  to  be  recommended  for  town  planting  include  about  two 
dozen  attractive  shrubs  of  various  heights,  and  if  they  succeed  well  in  the 
smoky  atmosphere  of  towns  it  is  certain  they  will  grow  in  more  favour¬ 
able  situations,  therefore  may  be  recommended  for  general  planting. 
The  shrub  commonly  known  as  Alaternus  is  really  a  Rhamnus  or 
Buckthorn.  R.  alaternus  angustifolius  has  narrow  leaves  and  R.  a. 
rotundifolius  broad  leaves.  Both  should  be  grown  as  affording  a  good 
contrast.  Andromeda  floribunda  is  a  beautiful  hardy  evergieen  shrub, 
growing  about  3  feet  in  height  and  producing  white  flowers  in  May. 
Aucuba  japonica  is  a  well-known  common  shrub,  which  is  seldom 
missing  from  any  shrubbery  large  or  small.  In  good  soil  of  any 
texture  it  grows  well,  and  forms  a  compact  bush,  which  may  be 
kept  without  formal  pruning  at  any  height  up  to  10  feet,  but  speci¬ 
mens  4  to  6  feet  high  and  correspondingly  bushy  are  most  frequently 
seen.  The  Austrian  Pine  is  one  of  the  best  Pine  trees  for  towns,  and 
should  be  given  ample  room. 
Berberis  Darwini  is  an  attractive  shrub,  and  bears  orange  and 
red  flowers  in  spring. .  The  growth  is  erect,  stiff,  and  bushy,  and  the 
foliage  small,  like  miniature  Holly  leaves.  It  is  not  a  tall  grower,  and 
may  be  planted  towards  the  foreground  of  a  shrubbery.  B.  aquifolia 
is  also  suitable.  Box  is  indispensable,  and  in  time  will  grow  into 
a  tall,  ornamental  shrub  6  to  12  feet  or  higher.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  small  bushy  shrubs.  Buxus  sempervirens  is  the  common  green 
Box,  and  there  are  golden  and  silver  variegated  forms. 
Various  types  of  Broom  are  attractive,  especially  when  in  bloom. 
C.  scoparius  Andreanus  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful;  the  flowers  are 
yellow,  with  rich  crimson  markings.  The  white  Portugal  and  the 
yellow  Spanish  may  also  be  included.  Euonymus,  both  green  and 
variegated  leaved  varieties,  are  excellent.  These  shrubs  may  be  kept 
to  any  desired  height,  but  ought  not  to  be  cut  in  a  formal  manner. 
The  smooth  leaved  foims  of  Ilex  or  Holly  are  preferable  to  the 
prickly  varieties.  Both  green  and  variegated  varieties  should  be 
grown,  and  to  have  shapely  bushes  ought  not  to  be  confined  for 
space.  Irish  Ivy  is  adapted  for  growing  on  stumps,  covering  spaces 
under  trees,  and  for  walls.  A  most  attractive  winter  flowering  shrub 
is  Laurustinus.  A  few  specimens  ought  to  be  included,  with  ample 
space  to  grow  freely  and  produce  a  good  effect. 
The  Evergreen  Oak  is  a  shrub  which  attains  to  the  height  of  a  tree  in 
the  course  of  time,  so  specimens  of  it  must  not  be  too  fresly  used  in  a 
shrubbery.  The  evergreen  Privet  is  interesting  because  of  its  long 
slender  growths  and  green  foliage  retained  through  the  winter.  The 
variety  ovalifolium  is  even  better.  It  is  good  for  hedges  as  well  as  a 
shrub.  Rhododendrons  are  amongst  the  most  bushy  and  compact 
growing  shrubs,  and  bear  showy  flowers  in  early  summer.  They  do 
not,  however,  succeed  on  chalky  or  limestone  soils,  but  flourish 
admirably  in  peat,  loam,  and  leaf  soil. — S. 
FRUIT  TREES  IN  ROTS. 
( Concluded  from  page  472.) 
Artificial  manures  must  not  be  given  too  freely  or  other  effects 
will  be  observed  than  those  that  are  desired.  We  give  occasional 
assistance  when  the  fruit  is  swelling  and  the  stone  forming.  When  it 
has  reached  the  size  of  a  small  Walnut  and  until  the  ripening  stage 
manures  are  applied  twice  a  week,  liquid  manure  once,  and  artificial 
once,  Thomson’s  Vine  manure,  Veitch’s  Chelsea  manure,  Dickson’s 
manure,  in  which  phosphates  are  present  in  a  good  percentage,  or 
something  similar.  A  dusting  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  given 
and  watered  in  with  a  rose  on  the  can. 
When  the  fruit  is  about  half  developed  a  top-dressing  made  up  of 
equal  parts  of  well-decayed  manure  and  good  loam  is  found  to  be 
beneficial.  To  this  manure  and  loam  a  little  artificial  manure  is 
added.  It  will  be  found  that  the  roots  take  readily  to  this  mixture. 
During  forcing  the  usual  temperatures  are  adhered  to.  The 
atmosphere  must  not  be  allowed  to  get  too  damp  during  dull  mild 
weather,  or  the  wood  growth  may  be  fostered  at  the  expense  of  the 
fruit.  In  fine  weather  syringing  is  practised,  and  also  damping  down 
between  the  pots. 
The  pruning  of  pot  fruit  trees,  particularly  in  the  case  of  Peaches 
and  Nectarines,  is  very  different  from  that  given  to  trained  trees. 
They  are  chiefly  pruned  during  the  growing  season,  beginning  as  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  set.  A  slight  pruning  only  is  given  before  the  trees 
come  into  flower.  Shoots  are  then  shortened,  and  the  pruning  still 
goes  on  even  after  all  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  if  necessary.  We 
try  to  secure  a  shapely  tree,  and  take  care  to  leave  no  wood  that  will 
ultimately  die  back.  The  cut  is  always  made  close  to  a  growing  shoot, 
so  that  the  wound  may  heal  over  again.  Practically  no  disbudding 
takes  place  with  pot  trees.  If  shoots  seem  to  be  developing  too 
rapidly  they  are  pinched,  this  being  far  better  than  severe  pruning 
duriog  the  resting  period. 
In  thinning  out  the  crop  great  caution  is  exercised  ;  not  until  the 
fruit  is  of  the  size  of  Filberts  do  we  thin  at  all  freely,  and  even  then 
three  fruits  are  left  to  every  one  that  will  eventually  remain  to 
ripen.  In  this  locality  the  fogs  are  so  destructive,  hence  we  have  to 
exercise  a  greater  amount  of  caution  in  thinning. 
The  gathering  must  in  some  cases  (eg..  Early  Rivers  Nectarine) 
be  done  by  cutting  off  the  fruit  with  Grape  scissors,  because  the  fruit 
swells  up  tightly  round  the  wood,  and  twisting  might  damage  it. 
Insects  are  more  easily  dealt  with  in  the  case  of  pot  trees  than 
with  trained  trees,  as  the  syringe  can  be  used  amongst  them  in  all 
directions.  In  the  case  of  green  fly  we  use  XL  All,  which  is  perfectly 
safe,  before  the  flowTers  expand  and  again  after  the  fruit  is  set,  when  it  can 
be  repeated  as  often  as  necessary.  This  also  kills  the  small  cater¬ 
pillars,  which  make  havoc  amongst  the  Cherries  and  Plums.  For 
red  spider  the  syringe  must  be  used. 
When  the  trees  are  out  of  doors  after  the  forcing  is  over  they  are 
plunged  in  the  open  ground  in  an  open  positiou  with  two  bricks 
under  each  pot,  and  also  some  ashes  to  keep  out  worms  as  much  as 
possible.  By  the  autumn  these  trees  will  have  rooted  freely. 
The  following  varieties  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines  have  been  found 
to  be  the  most  suitable  here,  and  are  arranged  in  the  order  of  ripening. 
NECTARINES. 
Cardinal 
Early  Rivers 
Advance 
Lord  Napier 
Dry  den 
Improved  Downtor. 
Humboldt 
Pineapple 
Spenser 
Newton 
Albert  Victor 
Victoria 
PEACHES. 
Alexander 
Waterloo 
Amsden  .June 
Hale’s  Early 
Early  Beatrice 
Early  York 
Dr.  Hogg- 
Crimson  Galande 
Grosse  Mignonne 
Stirling  Castle 
Dymond 
Sea  Eagle 
Nectarine  Peach 
Princess  of  Wales 
Osprey 
The  Plums  that  have  been  found  to  be  best  for  forcing  are : — 
Early  Transparent,  Jefferson,  Kirke’s,  and  Count  Althann’s  Gage. 
For  general  culture  in  pots  the  following  Plums,  Cherries,  Apples, 
and  Pears  are  good,  and  are  arranged  in  order  of  ripening. 
PLUMS. 
Oullins  Golden  Gage 
Early  Transparent" 
Jefferson 
Count  Althann’s  Gage 
Kirke’s 
Golden  Esperen 
Golden  Transparent 
Late  Transparent 
Coe’s  Golden  Drop 
Reine  Claude  de  Bavay 
Ickworth  Iniperatrice 
Late  Orange 
APPLES. 
Cox’s  Orange  Pippin 
Ribston  Pippin 
Washington. 
PEARS. 
Doyenne  du  Comice 
Durondeau. 
CHERRIES. 
Guigne  d’Annonay 
Early  Rivers 
Rigarreau  de  Schreken 
Frogmore  Prolific 
Governor  Wood 
May  Duke 
Empress  Eugenie. 
Jas.  Hudson,  Gunnersbury  Bouse,  Acton. 
