December  21,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
555 
handful  of  sulphur  into  a  paste,  adding  also  some  soot  and  a  little  clay. 
If  prepared  of  the  consistency  of  thin  paint  and  applied  with  a  brush, 
mildew  will  be  prevented  appearing,  red  spider  and  other  insects 
destroyed.  The  brush  must  be  used  on  the  young  woods  upwards,  so  as 
not  to  harm  the  buds. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Houses. — When  the  buds  of 
the  trees  s  arted  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  month  are  swelling 
freely  and  showing  colour  syringing  should  cease,  as  the  water  often 
causes  the  flowero  to  damp.  Maintain,  however,  a  genial  condition  of  the 
atmosphere  by  sprinkling  the  floor  and  border  with  water  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  of  fine  days.  Provide  a  little  ventilation  constantly  at  the 
top  of  <the  house.  Raise  the  heat  early  in  the  day  to  50°,  and  not  exceed¬ 
ing  55°  from  fire  heat,  and  admit  a  little  air,  yet  not  so  as  to  lower  the 
temperature  below  50°.  Increase  the  ventilation  with  the  sun  heat, 
having  it  lull  at  65°,  and  gradually  reduce  it  with  the  declining 
temperature,  closing  (subject  to  a  small  amount  of  air  being  left  on)  for 
the.  day  at  55°.  Un  cold  nights  the  minimum  temperature  should  be 
maintained  at  40°  to  45°  ;  between  the  latter  and  50°  is  ample  on  mild 
nights.  Nothing  is  gained  (but  the  prospects  of  a  crop  may  be  lost)  by 
undue  haste  until  the  days  have  turned,  and  there  is  an  increase  of  light 
and  length  of  days.  Nevertheless,  aim  at  steady  progress,  allowing  the 
trees  abundance  of  air  and  a  genial  warmth  by  day,  with  rest  at  night. 
Second  Early  House. — If  the  house  has  been  open  to  receive  the 
autumn  rains  the  border  will  he  thoroughly  moist.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  lights  have  not  been  removed,  there  may  be  need  tor  repeated 
waterirgs  to  bring  the  soil  into  a  moist,  but  not  sodden,  condition. 
Judicious  applications  of  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees  benefit  them 
immensely,  and  where  the  drainage  is  efficient  there  is  little  danger 
of  the  soil  getting  sodden  by  the  rainfall  or  applications  of  water  Fire 
heat  will  only  be  necessary  at  the  con  mencement  to  prevent  the  tempera¬ 
ture  falling  below  freezing  point  at  night  and  to  maintain  50°  in  the 
daytime,  admitting  air  freely  at  and  above  that  heat. 
Succession  Houses. — The  cleansing  of  the  houses  and  trees  should  be 
pushed  forward,  and  brought  to  a  close  as  soon  as  possible.  Where  the 
trees  have  been  infested  with  brown  aphis,  red  spider,  or  scale  it  is 
advisable  to  syringe  the  whole  house  with  hot  water  at  a  temperature  of 
140°,  which  will  soften  the  dirt  and  destroy  all  the  pests  it  reaches.  The 
woodwork  should  then  be  thoroughly  cleansed  with  soap  and  water,  using 
a  brush,  and  the  glass  inside  and  outside  with  clear  water.  The  trees 
may  be  syringed  again  with  the  hot  water  and  diessed  with  petroleum 
emulsion,  made  by  dissolving  lb.  of  softsoap  in  a  gallon  of  water  by 
boiliug,  and  on  removing  from  the  fire  add  half  a  pint  of  paraffin  oil,  and 
stir  briskly,  so  as  to  thoroughly  amalgamate  the  oil  with  the  soapy 
solution  For  use,  the  emuhion  should  be  diluted  with  five  times  its 
bulk  of  waler,  applying  with  a  brush  at  a  temperature  of  130°  to  140°, 
taking  care  not  to  dislocate  the  buds.  Frior  to  this  the  trees  will 
have  been  pruned,  and  after  dressing  the  branches  can  be  re-arranged 
and  the  growths  tied  to  the  trellis.  The  walls  should  be  limewashed. 
Remove  the  loose  surface  soil,  add  fresh  lumpy  loam,  with  a  fourth  of 
well-decomposed  manure,  and  supply  a  handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser 
per  square  yard.  The  rain  or  watering  will  work  the  ingredients  into 
the  soil. 
If  the  roof-lights  are  fixed  ventilation  should  be  given  fully,  the  trees 
beirg  afforded  rest  as  completely  .as  possible,  care  being  taken  not  to 
allow  them  to  become  dry  at  the  roots.  If  the  roof-lights  are  movable, 
and  have  teen  removed,  they  may  remain  off  until  the  time  arrives  for 
starting  the  trees  or  until  the  buds  commence  swelling,  when  the  lights 
must  of  necessity  be  replaced  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  buds  and 
blossoms. 
Unhealed  Houses.—  These  structures  are  often  made  receptacles  for  other 
plants.  The  better  plan  is  to  remove  the  roof-lights  and  let  the  trees  and 
soil  have  the  benefit  of  the  exposure,  which  insures  complete  rest, 
thorough  moistening  of  the  bolder,  and  retarding  of  the  blossom,  which 
is  of  considerable  importance.  The  trees  will  not  take  the  least  harm,  no 
matter  how  severe  the  weather  mav  be,  provided  the  wood  be  well 
ripened  ;  but  if  there  is  any  doubt  about  that  the  lights  are  best  retained 
over  the  trees,  as  frost  acting  on  such  whilst  wet  may  cause  their 
destruction.  In  the  latter  case,  and  also  when  the  lights  are  removed, 
pruning  may  be  deferred  until  the  buds  commence  swelling. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
.  .  i .  i .  i .  i . 
1$ 
AM- 
The  Weather. 
We  are  now  neariDg  the  shortest  day,  and  the  weather  is 
seasonable.  The  ground  is  covered  several  inches  deep  with  snow, 
and  a  keen  frost  prevails.  The  lowest  temperature  registered  on  an 
exposed  thermometer,  4  feet  from  the  ground,  has  been  21°.  This  is 
more  frost  than  we  have  had  during  the  past  two  winters,  but  it  is 
only  reasonable  to  expect  a  change  from  the  extremely  open  weather 
experienced  then.  Fortunately  the  snow  will  protect  all  dwarf 
vegetation  should  the  frost  continue. 
What  will  be  the  effect  of  the  sudden  change  in  the  weather  on 
(he  bees  ?  If  they  have  been  protected  as  advised  in  j  revious  rotes 
they  will  be  perfectly  safe,  and  no  barm  will  happen  to  them.  As 
long  as  the  frost  continues  it  will  be  an  advantage  to  allow  the  snow 
to  remain  on  the  roofs  of  the  hives,  as  there  is  great  warmth  in  a 
thick  covering.  Directly  it  begins  to  thaw  the  snow  should  he 
removed,  as  there  is  nothing  more  penetrating  than  melting  snow.  If 
there  is  a  decayed  spot  or  a  minute  crack  in  the  roof  it  will  find  it  out. 
Ihe  snow  should  not  he  allowed  to  remain  on  the  aliuhting  board, 
as  it  will  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  air,  and  also  attract  the  bees 
when  the  sun  is  shiniDg  during  the  middle  of  the  day.  It  is  almost 
incredible  the  number  of  bees  that  may  he  lost  through  a  little 
carelessness  in  this  respect.  It  is  not  so  apparent  at  this  season  as 
during  the  early  days  of  spring,  when  the  sun  is  gaining  power  daily. 
The  bees  are  tempted  to  leave  their  hive  when  the  sun  is  shining 
directly  on  them,  and  the  ground  is  covered  with  glistening  snow. 
They  take  a  flight,  and  many  of  them  alight  on  the  snow,  which  is 
certain  death,  as  they  become  chilled,  and,  being  unable  to  rise,  die 
in  the  course  of  a  few  minutes. 
It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  we  have  seen  thousands  lying  dead 
on  the  snow  within  a  radius  of  20  yards  of  some  hives  that  had 
been  neglected.  All  that  is  necessary  to  do  at  midwinter  is  to  clear 
the  snow  away  from  the  entrance,  and  if  the  hive  is  not  fastened 
to  its  stand  turn  it  round  so  that  the  tun  does  not  shine  directly 
on  the  alighting  board.  When  the  days  begin  to  lengthen,  and  the 
sun  is  more  powerful,  place  a  piece  of  wood  or  slate  across  the 
entrance  in  such  a  manner  as  to  obstruct  the  sun,  hut  not  tbe  air. 
Useful  Hints. 
As  mentioned  above,  bees  that  have  been  properly  treated  and 
are  housed  in  warm,  dry  hives  will  bo  in  good  condition,  and  perfectly 
safe  whatever  the  weather  may  he.  There  are,  however,  many  bee¬ 
keepers  who,  for  various  reasons,  fail  to  do  what  is  necessary  for  their 
bees’  welfare  at  the  right  time.  It  may  he  they  were  left  to  take 
their  chance  after  robbing  them  of  their  stores.  Feeding  may  have 
been  attempted  when  it  was  too  late  in  the  season  for  the  bees  to 
carry  down  the  food  offered  to  them.  Again,  in  the  matter  of  packing 
up  fir  winter,  how  often  is  this  left  until  it  is  too  late  to  be  of  any 
benefit  to  the  bees  ?  Where  such  mistakes  have  been  made  an 
attemj  t  should  be  made  to  remedy  them  at  once. 
If  a  doubt  exists  at  regards  shortness  of  stores,  it  is  not  advisable 
to  remove  the  covering  or  attempt  to  examine  the  combs  at  this 
season,  as  with  a  little  practice  a  bee-keeper  tray  form  a  very  correct 
opinion  as  to  the  amount  of  stores  in  the  hive  by  simply  lifting  the 
back  of  the  hive  with  one  hand.  If  stores  are  short  and  feeding  must 
be  done,  a  cake  of  soft  candy  placed  directly  over  the  cluster  will  have 
the  desired  effect.  The  quilt  must  net  be  removed,  as  when  it  is 
placed  in  prsition  in  the  autumn  after  the  surplus  has  been  removed, 
the  hees  fill  up  all  crevices  with  propolis;  this  makes  all  airtight. 
We  prefer  to  cut  a  piece  out  of  quilt  and  carpet,  cr  whatever  is  placed 
over  the  frames,  just  large  enough  to  allow  the  bC'X  of  candy  to  rest 
on  the  top  of  the  frames.  They  shculd  be  covered  up  warm  again  to 
prevent  an  escape  oi  heat  from  the  hive. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
FLOWERS  FOR  BEES. 
In  reply  to  ytur  esteemed  correspondent,  Mr.  S.  Arnott,  I  may  say 
that  I  have  not  obseived  dead  bees  in  the  flowers  of  Colchicum  autumnale 
more  than  is  usually  to  be  found  in  oiher  flowers  at  that  reason  It  is 
quite  a  common  ircident  to  find  dead  bees  in  the  autumn  not  only  in 
fiowers,  but  also  on  the  foliage  of  the  » arious  vegetable  crops  in  tbe  garden. 
This  arises  from  two  causes — old  age  and  the  oddness  of  the  season.  It 
may  be  interesting  to  rote  the  fact  that  Colchicum  autumnale  grows 
f  reely  in  a  wild  state  in  the  neighhoui  hood  of  my  apiary,  and  lhat  steps 
have  been  taken  of  late  to  eradicate  it  from  the  pastuies  as  it  is  poisonous 
to  the  cattle.— An  English  Bee-keeper. 
While  quite  agreeing  with  “An  English  Bee-keeper’s”  list  of 
flowers  on  page  485,  may  I  be  allowed  to  supplement  his  list  with  a  few 
remarks  ?  There  is  one  plant  that  I  set  special  value  upon  in  spring,  and 
that  is  the  Flowe  ring  Currant  or  Ribes.  This  is  not  only  vety  ornamental, 
but  the  bees  delight  in  it.  I  have  a  divisional  hedge  I  raised  specially 
for  my  bees.  Borage  also  I  do  not  see  mentioned.  This  1  grow  in 
succession,  and  it  affords  food  until  the  severe  frosts  cut  it  down.  Mar¬ 
joram  is  useful  also  as  a  herb  and  as  food  for  bees.  Then,  as  a  late 
flowering  ornamental  shrub,  the  Strawberiy  Arbutus  comes  in  useful,, 
and  I  have  never  known  it  so  beautiful  as  this  past  autumn,  when  it  was 
so  well  fruited  with  its  yellow  and  crimson  fruits  ;  but,  alas  !  the  black¬ 
birds  cleared  off  every  berry  last  week.  How  are  these  shrubs  usually 
raised  ? 
Now  comes  in  the  Laurustinus,  which  affords  food  from  its  waxy 
flowers  all  the  winter  on  mild  days  when  the  bees  can  work.  Lately  I 
made  special  inquiries  respecting  the  source  of  pollen-cairjirg  in  some 
cases  of  bees  I  drove  and  transferred  very  late  this  season,  and  was 
informed  it  was  from  single  Dahlias,  before  the  frost  cut  them  down, 
which  were  extensively  grown  by  a  gentleman  in  the  neighbourhood. 
It  appears  to  me  a  great  pity  that  honey  is  not  shown  at  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  and  fruit  show  s,  and  also  at  the  cattle  shows,  where  poultry. 
