556 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
December  21,  1899. 
eggs, 'butter,  and  other  products  occupy  positions.  I  hope  societies  and 
secretaries  will  think  it  over  another  season. — J.  HlAM,  Astwood  Bank. 
“An  English  Bee-keeper”  gives  an  excellent  selection  of  plants 
and  flowers  suitable  for  bees  during  scarcity.  No  one  in  a  garden  can 
plant  sufficient  for  bees  storing  a  surplus,  unless  the  hives  are  situated 
near  large  orchards  or  some  of  our  seed  farms.  One  plant  not  enumerated 
by  “  A.  E.  B.-K.,”  the  white  Centaurea  montana,  is  my  pet  bee  plant.  A 
row  of  this  Centaurea  backed  by  the  blue  cyanus,  apart  from  it*  beauty 
during  the  flowering  period,  is  sure  to  be  visited  by  all  kinds  of  insects, 
and  especially  bees.  I  have  counted  as  many  as  ten  bees  in  a  single 
flower,  and  it  blooms  quite  a  long  period,  from  the  middle  of  April  to 
June,  and  when  ragged  in  July  the  plants  can  be  cut  over,  when  it  will 
send  up f fresh  growths,  which  will  flower  until  cut  down  by  frost. 
—A.  DJS.  K. 
FONDNESS  OE  BEES  FOR  SUMACH. 
IT  is  often  recommended  that  Linden  trees  be  set  out  that  bees  may 
feast  from  the  flowers ;  but  has  it  ever  been  observed  by  others  how 
uncommonly  fond  of  Sumach  these  insects  are?  Let  a  piece  of  bark  be 
taken  off  a  Rhus  typhina  in  early  summer  while  the  sap  is  active,  and  at 
once  the  whole  surface  of  exposed  wood  becomes  so  fully  covered  with 
bees  that  nothing  whatever  of  the  scar  can  be  seen.  The  visits  of  the 
insects  are  kept  up  until  quite  late  in  summer.  I  have  not  observed 
whether  the  flowers  of  this  species  are  visited  or  not  ;  but  it  is  a  sight 
to  see  them  on  those  of  the  R.  copallina,  which  are  in  display  in  August. 
When  the  heads  of  flowers  are  fully  open  they  are  so  full  of  bees  that 
hardly  is  there  room  lor  a  new  comer  to  alight. — J.  M.  (in  “Meehan’s 
Monthly.”) 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice, be  directed  to  “The  Editor,”  xz,  Mitre  Court 
Chambers,  Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will 
write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information 
on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them 
to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  'plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
•Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Hole  in  Lime  Tree  (G.  R.  A.)  —The  wood  will  no  doubt  be  infested  by 
wood-fungi,  not  parasitic,  but  saprophytic,  and  causing,  in  time,  the  stem  to 
become  hollow.  We  have  found  the  plan,  first  propounded,  we  believe,  by  the 
Rev  M.  J.  Berkeley,  of  stopping  the  hole  with  stones  and  running  it 
level  with  the  bark  with  cement  in  such  manner  as  to  allow  the  water  to 
run  down  the  trunk  to  answer  well,  the  bark  of  the  tree  growing  over  the 
cement.  The  process  is  to  remove  as  much  of  the  decayed  wood  as 
possible,  then  syringe  the  surfaces  inside  the  hole  with  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  copper,  1  o z.  to  H  gallon  of  water,  or  paint  with  Stockholm 
tar  formed  to  the  consistency  of  paint  by  the  addition  of  one-fourth 
petroleum.  A  layer  of  stones  is  then  placed  in  the  hole  and  run  level 
with  cement  (Portland)  one  part,  and  two  parts  sharp  sand  formed  into 
a  composition  with  water  soft  enough  to  run  and  fill  the  interstices 
between  the  stones.  More  stones  are  added,  run  with  cement,  and  so  on 
until  the  hole  is  filled  level  with  the  bark,  when  as  soon  as  sufficiently 
set  the  surface  is  smoothed  over  with  a  trowel  and  a  surfacing  of  neat 
cement  mortar,  and  finished  in  such  manner  that  the  rain  cannot  possibly 
lodge,  but  must  run  down  the  trunk.  Incase  of  a  flat  hole  it  is  necessary 
to  raise  the  cement  in  the  centre  so  as  to  throw  off  the  rain  and  thus 
prevent  water  lodging.  A  very  good  plan  is  to  cover  the  hole  over  the 
cement  with  the  usual  pigment  of  clay  and  cow  manure,  as  in  grafting, 
forming  a  sort  of  rounded  cap  in  order  to  encourage  the  bark  to  grow 
over  the  wound,  renewing  this  from  time  to  time. 
Camellia  Buds  Falling  ( Young  Gardener). — It  is  impossible  from  the 
meagre  details  that  you  furnish  to  assign  a  definite  cause  of  the  buds 
dropping  from  the  Camellia  plants  in  your  previous  situation.  We  can 
quite  understand  your  anxiety  to  guard  against  it  in  your  new  charge, 
and  would  advise  you  to  read  very  carefully  the  remarks  by  “  W.,”  on 
page  552,  which  we  hope  will  prove  of  service  to  you. 
Are  the  Fruits  of  Physalis  Franchetti  Edible?  (J  C.  S.).  —  The 
berries  are  no  doubt  edible  in  the  sense  of  the  Winter  Cherry  (Physalis 
Alkekengi),  which  have  an  acidulous  taste,  slightly  bitter,  but  not 
unpleasant  flavour.  In  Germany,  Switzerland,  and  Spain  they  are  served 
at  the  table  as  dessert,  with  other  fruits.  The  Cape  Gooseberry  (P.  peru¬ 
viana  edulis  syn.  pubescens)  has  yellow  edible  fruit,  which  is  excellent 
when  made  into  confections. 
Propagating  Wild  Guelder  Rose  {Derby). — Viburnum  opulu3  may 
be  propagated  by  layering,  or  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  shoots, 
inserted  in  sandy  soil,  under  hand-lights,  or  in  a  somewhat  shady  position. 
It  is  commonlv  raised  from  layers  in  nurseries,  stools  being  kept  for 
the  purpose.  If  jou  cut  down  a  plant  close  to  the  ground  it  will. .push 
growths,  which  in  the  following  autumn  will  be  available  for  layering. 
Failing  this  the  berries  may  be  collected,  stratified  in  sand  outdoors, 
turned  frequently,  and  in  the  following  autumn  be  sown.  The  plants 
appear  the  following  summer.  Layers  usually  make  the  best  plants. 
Procuring  Bulbs  of  Wild  Hyacinths  ( Bluebell ) — It  is  quite  possible  to 
get  wild  Hyacinth  (Scilla  nutans)  bulbs  through  some  person  who  has 
charge  of  copses  and  woods,  where  they  grow  in  quantity,  sometimes 
over  large  areas  of  ground,  and  are  commonly  called  “  Bluebells  ”  or 
“  Harebells.”  The  proper  time  to  procure  the  bulbs  is  as  soon  as  the 
leaves  are  down  in  the  summer,  or  between  that  time  and  early  in 
autumn,  before  the  bulbs  have  begun  to  push  fresh  roots.  We  should 
apply  to  some  nurseryman  advertising  in  our  columns,  and  ask  for  an 
estimate  for  large  size  bulbs  by  the  thousand,  or  an  advertisement  stating 
requirements  would  no  doubt  bring  the  desired  offers. 
Plants  for  Back  Wall  of  Lean-to  Vinery  {Rockery). — The  best  ever¬ 
green  plants  are  Camellias,  planted  cut  and  the  growths  trained  to  a 
trellis.  Good  varieties  are — Alba  plena,  white;  Beali,  crimson; 
Chandleri  elegans,  light  rose  ;  C.  M.  Hovey,  scarlet  crimson  ;  conspicua, 
bright  scarlet,  semi-double,  very  fine  ;  Donkelaari,  crimson  mottled  with 
white  ;  Eximia,  deep  red  ;  fimbriata,  white  ;  Lavinia  Maggi,  white  with 
crimson  blotches  ;  Mathotiaoa,  crimson ;  Mathotiana  alba,  white  ; 
Monarch,  scarlet  ;  Queen  of  Beauties,  blush  veined  with  pink  ;  and 
reticulata,  bright  rose.  Rhynchospermum  jasminoides,  white,  sweet- 
scented  flowers,  does  fairly  well ;  also  Luculia  gratissima,  rosy  pink,  sweet 
scented  ;  but  the  latter  is  very  subject  to  foster  insect  pests 
Keeping  Grafts  of  Muscat  Vine  ( T.  R.  R.). — The  best  way  to  keep 
the  cuttings  or  scions  is  to  place  them  with  their  lower  ends  in  moist  soil 
or  sand  in  a  flower  pot,  and  keep  in  a  cool  house  shaded  from  the  sun.  In 
such  a  position  the  buds  will  not  start  until  April.  If  not  wanted  for 
grafting  until  later,  the  cuttimrs  should  be  laid  in  soil  behind  a  north 
wall,  where  the  eyes  will  keep  fresh  until  May  or  June,  and  can  be  used 
at  any  time  when  required. 
Grafting  Lady  Downe’s  with  Muscat  {Idem) .  —  The  best  time  for 
grafting  Vines  is  when  the  first  few  leaves  on  the  stock — in  your  case 
Lady  Downe’s — are  fully  expanded,  as  the  first  flush  of  sap  has  then 
passed,  and  the  tissues  are  in  a  growing  condition.  The  scions  should 
be  slightly  on  the  move,  and  if  they  are  in  a  proper  state  the  buds  will  be 
a  little  excited,  or  beginning  to  swell.  If  not  started,  the  scions  must  be 
placed  in  heat  to  effect  this,  and  the  scion  when  cut  through  appear  a 
little  moist  on  the  surface  of  the  wound.  With  the  stock  and  scion  in 
condition  the  operation  may  be  performed  with  every  prospect  of  success, 
always  leaving  a  growing  shoot  on  the  stock  above  the  graft  until  the 
union  has  been  effected.  A  correspondent  in  the  Journal  of  Horticulture, 
vob  xxiv.,  p.  77  (l  873),  described  a  certain  mode  of  grafting  as  follows  :  — 
“Select  a  stout,  short-jointed,  well-matured  lateral  shoot  for  a  scion, 
with  bold  buds.  Take  a  slice  off  the  graft  near  the  middle,  say  5  inches 
long,  leaving  4  inches  below  it  for  inserting  into  a  bottle,  and  3  inches, 
with  a  bud  above,  to  grow  and  form  the  future  Vine.  Take  a  similar 
slice  off  the  stock,  fit  the  two  together,  and  bandage  around  with  tape. 
The  slicing  should  be  done  quickly,  cleanly,  and  fearlessly,  not  merely 
removing  the  bark,  but  shaving  pretty  well  into  the  wood.  After  tying, 
no  moss  or  clay  or  any  other  covering  is  required  ;  suspend  an  ordinary 
wine  bottle,  secured,  with  the  end  of  the  graft  inside,  and  keep  this  filled 
with  rain  water,  placing  a  little  charcoal  in  the  water  to  keep  it  pure. 
When  the  grafts  have  grown  6  feet,  not  before,  remove  the  bottles  and 
the  ligatures,  and  the  operation  is  completed.  This  mode  of  grafting  is 
performed  about  the  same  time  as  the  other — after  the  Vines  have 
commenced  to  grow.  If  carefully  executed  few  failures  will  occur,  and 
if  the  Vines  are  strong  canes  or  rods  from  18  to  20  feet  will  be  produced 
the  same  season,  healthy  Vines  bearing  a  crop  of  fruit  at  the  same  time.” 
Names  of  Fruits.  —  Notice.  —  We  have  pleasure  in  naming  good 
typical  fruits  (when  the  names  are  discoverable)  for  the  convenience  of 
regular  subscribers,  who  are  the  growers  of  such  fruit,  and  not  col¬ 
lectors  of  specimens  from  non-subscribers.  This  latter  procedure  is 
wholly  irregular,  and  we  trust  that  none  of  our  readers  will  allow 
themselves  to  be  made  the  mediums  in  infringing  our  rules.  Special 
attention  is  directed  to  the  following  decision,  the  object  of  which  is 
to  discourage  the  growth  of  inferior  and  promote  the  culture  of  superior 
varieties.  In  consequence  of  the  large  number  of  worthless  Apples  and  Pears 
sent  to  this  office  to  be  named ,  it  has  been  decided  to  name  only  specimens  and 
varieties  of  approved  merit,  and  to  reject  the  inferior,  which  are  not  worth 
sending  or  growing.  The  names  and  addresses  of  senders  of  fruits  or 
