572 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  28,  1899. 
Treatment  of  Clayey  Soils — These  are  about  the  most  difficult  of  all 
to  cultivate,  but  properly  treated  they  are  among  the  most  productive. 
Clayey  soils  naturally  vary  considerably  in  their  composition.  In  many 
cases  it  is  a  good  plan  to  dig  early  with  forks  in  preference  to  spades, 
laying  this  up  in  rough  spits  with  a  view  to  frosts,  winds,  and  rain  effect- 
ing  pulverisation.  The  tough  Wealden  clays  of  Kent  and  Sussex  are  not 
only  dug  up  early  and  roughly,  but  they  are  further  fined  down  by  means 
of  chopping  with  two-tined  or  Canterbury  hoes  prior  to  cropping.  Occa¬ 
sionally  clayey  soil  if  dug  early  gradually  becomes  of  the  consistency  of 
bird  lime,  so  that  in  this  case  digging  must  not  take  place  long  before 
cropping.  Ground  that  is  clayey  would  be  greatly  improved  in  every 
way  by  the  free  addition  of  light  sandy  soil,  leaf  soil,  ashes,  soft  ballast, 
or  burnt  clay,  fine  mortar  rubbish,  or  anything  that  will  prevent  it  from 
again  running  together  into  its  old  unworkable  state.  None  of  these 
materials  ought  to  be  dug  in  deeply. 
Light  Soils. — Some  light  sandy  or  gravelly  soils  are  more  retentive  of 
moisture,  and,  therefore,  more  fertile  than  others.  Much  depends  upon 
the  nature  ot  the  subsoil.  Very  light  soils  would  be  greatly  improved  by 
an  admixture  of  clay.  If  a  small  quantity  of  this  cannot  be  brought  up 
from  below  by  the  process  of  double  digging  or  bastard  trenching  this 
should  be  done.  Failing  this,  a  surface  dressing  of  strong  clay  should  be 
given,  distributing  it  on  the  surface,  a  cartload  of  this  sufficing  for  two 
square  rods  of  ground.  After  the  lumps  have  been  broken  down  by  the 
action  of  frosts  or  winds  and  rain  it  should  be  more  evenly  distributed 
and  then  mixed  with  the  top  spit. 
Digging  and  Trenching. — In  numerous  cases  old  garden  soils,  black 
in  colour,  would  be  much  improved  by  the  addition  of  a  small  portion  of 
subsoil.  Between  the  top  spit  and  subsoil  there  is  usually  a  thin  layer 
of  soil  to  be  found  that  has  repeatedly  been  loosened  in  digging  but 
never  brought  to  the  surface.  It  is  this  that  may  safely  be  brought  up 
either  by  taking  more  pains  with  the  digging,  sending  in  the  spade  more 
deeply  than  formerly,  or,  better  still,  by  the  process  of  double  digging. 
Breaking  up  the  bared  subsoil  with  a  fork  further  improves  the  ground, 
as  this  insures  a  more  perfect  drainage  and  taps  a  supply  of  moisture 
for  the  summer. 
1 
Sr- 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
— 
i 
< 
• 
Seasonable  Work. 
At  this  season,  when  all  is  quiet  in  the  apiary,  there  are  many 
things  in  connection  with  the  craft  to  take  the  bee-keeper’s  attention, 
a  few  of  which  may  be .  here  mentioned.  ‘There  are  doubtless  many 
bee-keepers  similarly  situated  to  ourselves  who  are  making  arrange¬ 
ments  for  another  year.  In  the  first  place  a  thorough  overhaul  is 
being  made  of  spare  hives,  frames,  and  all  the  utensils  in  connection 
with  the  work.  Hives  that  have  been  exposed  to  all  weathers  for 
several  years  are  being  repaired  and  painted  with  white  lead.  This 
is  only  done  on  the  outside ;  we  dress  over  the  interior  with  Stock¬ 
holm  tar.  The  mixture  is  prepared  in  an  old  saucepan  placed  over  a 
clear  fire,  into  which  is  placed  carbolic  acid  and  Stockholm  tar  in 
equal  parts.  It  must  be  kept  constantly  stirred,  and  be  used  whilst 
quite  hot,  well  working  the  mixture  into  all  the  crevices.  Should  it 
take  fire  remove  it  at  once,  and  place  the  back  of  a  shovel,  or  something 
similar,  over  the  top  of  the  saucepan,  and  the  flames  will  be  instantly 
put  out.  Hives  treated  in  this  manner  may  be  stored  in  a  dry  place, 
and  will  then  be  ready  for  use  when  required. 
We  make  our  own  frames  during  the  dull  days  of  winter.  A  block 
is  required  for  this  purpose  ;  it  is  then  impossible  not  to  make  them 
true  to  measurement.  Frames  may  now  be  obtained  very  cheaply  from 
dealers,  and  many  bee-keepers  prefer  to  obtain  them  in  this  manner.  A 
general  list  is  also  made  of  our  requirements  for  another  season.  These 
are  obtained  and  held  in  readiness  for  use.  If  everything  is  stored  in 
good  condition  it  is  surprising  the  amount  of  trouble  the  bee-keeper 
is  saved  at  the  busy  seasou.  Wax  foundation  may  be  obtained  at  a 
cheap  rate  if  taken  in  large  quantities,  and  will  keep  in  good  condition 
for  several  years. 
How  to  Commence  Bee-keeping. 
Another  question  that  can  be  considered  at  this  season,  and  which 
may  be  of  use  to  beginners,  is  how  and  when  to  commence  bee-keeping. 
V  e  do  not  recommend  intending  bee-keepers  to  commence  during  the 
dark,  dull  days  of  midwinter,  but  with  the  advent  of  the  new  year 
and  a  change  in  the  present  inclement  weather,  a  start  may  be  at  once 
made.  There  are  various  reasons  why  the  early  spring  of  the  vear  is 
preferred  to  any  other  for  commencing  bee-keeping.  At  that  time  the 
bees  have  come  safely  through  the  winter,  and  an  opinion  may  be 
formed  as  to  the  likelihood  of  their  doing  well. 
In  selecting  a  stock  care  ought  to  be  taken  to  obtain  only  those 
which  are  headed  by  a  young  fertile  queen.  This  may  be"  easily 
ascertained.  The  old  stock  which  swarmed  last  year  and  the  cast  or 
second  swarm  from  the  old  stock  will  be  headed  by  a  queen  hatched 
this  year.  The  old  queen  always  goes  with  the  first  swarm.  Bearing 
these  lacts  in  mind,  there  should  be  no  difficulty  m  obtaining  a  young 
queen.  It  will  also  be  possible  to  tell  whether  she  is  fertile" or  not  bv 
observing  the  number  of  bees  in  the  hive. 
In  making  a  selection  it  is  advisable  to  move  the  hive  from  its 
stand,  and  if  the  bees  are  on  the  wing  a  puff  or  two  of  smoke  blown  in 
at  the  entrance  will  keep  them  quiet.  The  hive  may  then  be  turned 
up,  and  a  selection  should  be  made  from  those  having  straight  combs, 
plenty  of  bees,  and  if  well  supplied  with  stores  so  much  the  better.  A 
straw  skep  of  fair  average  size  at  this  season  should  weigh  nearly 
20  lbs.  Bees  vary  in  price  slightly  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
but  a  good  stock  in  a  straw  skep  may  be  obtained  for  ten  shillings. — • 
An  English  Bee-keeper. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice, be  directed  to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court 
Chambers,  Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will 
write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information 
on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them 
to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Coelogyne  cristata  (  S.  M,). — The  temperature  is  quite  sufficient,  and 
the  plant  would  be  no  worse  if  in  5°  less  heat,  and  it  will  be  better  to 
let  the  temperature  fall  to  that  extent  than  to  make  the  pipes  very  hot  on 
cold  nights.  The  flower  spikes  push  up  from  the  base  of  the  pseudo¬ 
bulbs,  and  ought  to  soon  make  their  appearance.  We  cannot  tell  you 
whether  the  plant  needs  repotting  or  not ;  if  you  state  the  number  of 
pseudo-bulbs  and  the  size  of  the  pot,  we  may  be  able  to  form  an  idea  on 
the  matter.  After  flowering  is  the  time  for  dividing  and  repotting,  and 
by  that  time  we  will  publish  cultural  notes  on  this  beautiful  and  easily 
grown  Orchid. 
Deutzia  Leaf  Brown  at  the  End  (F.  G.). — There  is  nothing  wrong 
with  leaf  but  the  usual  brownness  consequent  on  wa  er  lodging  on  and 
hanging  from  the  end.  This  destroys  the  tissues  and  causes  the 
brownness.  The  plant,  however,  ought  now  to  be  leafless,  but  has 
probably  retained  its  leaves  from  being  kept  in  the  greenhouse.  It  should 
have  been  placed  outdoors  in  the  summer,  and  in  the  autumn  plunged  to 
the  rim  of  the  pot  in  coal  ashes  in  a  sheltered  situation  outdoors,  where  it 
oujht  to  have  remained  until  now,  or  later  ;  then  introduced  to  the  green¬ 
house  It  would  flower  in  due  time,  if  furnished  with  flowering  buds. 
The  plant  is  deciduous,  and  all  the  better  for  resting  ;  indeed,  that  is 
necessary  for  its  welfare. 
Growing  Violets  in  Pots  for  Profit  (  W.  B.). — The  proposal  does  not 
appear  to  us  as  likely  to  yield  you  much  profit.  We  have  grown  Violets  in 
pots,  but  they  were  of  the  “  tree  ”  kind  on  stems  6  to  12  inches  high,  and  they 
answered  their  purpose,  which  was  not  for  sale  The  plants  you  have 
in  view  do  not  grow  freely  enough  in  pots  all  the  summer  to  form  good 
crowns  and  throw  up  flowers  in  sufficient  profusion  to  pay.  Plants  well 
grown  in  the  open  ground,  lifted  and  replanted  under  glass,  do  far 
better.  There  is,  however,  no  certainty  whatever  that  deferring  the 
lifting  and  replanting  till  January  would  be  profitable,  and  in  some  seasons 
the  Violets  would  not  be  worth  the  trouble  involved.  You  have  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  in  the  hou^e  till  January,  while  strong  Violet  plants  should 
be  well  established  in  their  flowering  positions  long  before  then,  and  at  no 
time  subjected  to  a  higher  temperature  than  50°,  with  a  free  admission 
of  air.  Your  best  way,  perhaps,  would  be  to  pot  the  Violets  in 
September,  selecting  plants  with  good  crowns,  and  keep  them  in  frames 
until  the  turn  of  the  days  and  then  transfer  them  to  the  house.  Instead 
of  potting  the  plants  we  have  seen  them  established  in  rough  narrow  boxes 
made  of  7-inch  deal  floor  boarding,  and  when  these  were  placed  in  the 
house  as  soon  as  space  was  afforded  by  the  removal  of  the  Chrysanthe¬ 
mums,  and  Tomatoes  were  n  t  planted  until  March,  the  Violets 
answered  very  well.  They  were  protected  as  needed  until  the  house  was 
read}7  for  Them.  We  shall  be  pleased  if  these  suggestions  are  of  any 
service  to  you. 
