40 
JOURNAL  OP  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENED. 
January  8,  l8#fli 
month  in  order  that  they  may  make  and  properly  ripen  their  growth 
and  have  a  due  amount  of  scarcely  discernible  embryonic  Figs  set  by 
September,  any  fruits  appearing  before  that  time  or  even  then  being 
removed.  The  trees  must  be  potted  without  delay,  using  rather  strong 
loam,  with  a  fourth  of  well-decayed  manure  and  a  fifth  of  old  mortar 
rubbish,  adding  a  handful  of  basic  slag  to  each  bushel  of  loam, 
draining  efficiently,  and  potting  firmly.  Train  the  plants  with  a  single 
stem,  and  allow  the  radiating  branches  to  form  the  foundation  of  a  good 
bush  or  pyramid.  The  best  varieties  for  early  forcing  are  St.  John’s, 
Pingo  de  Mel,  and  Brown  Turkey,  all  of  which  give  good  results  in  the 
first  crop  under  proper  management. 
i Peaches  and  Nectarines. —  Earliest  Forced  Houses. —  Trees 
that  have  been  forced  regularly  so  as  to  start  at  the  “  dead  ”  of 
winter,  do  so  with  great  promptitude,  and  go  on  splendidly  with  very 
little  excitement.  But  to  keep  them  in  good  progress  the  night 
temperature  must  be  50°  or  even  55°  during  mild  weather,  after  the 
petals  are  fully  expanded,  the  latter  heat  being  sufficient  by  day  in 
Bevere  weather  by  artificial  means  when  the  sky  is  overcast,  65°  by  day 
from  sun  heat,  and  if  the  air  be  mild  a  few  degrees  more  may  be  allowed. 
Syringing  must  cease  directly  the  anthers  show  clear  of  the  petals,  but 
damping  the  floor  and  border  on  bright  days  does  good  by  maintaining 
a  genial  atmosphere,  practising  it  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon. 
Lose  no  opportunity  of  ventilating  freely  when  external  conditions  are 
favourable,  leaving  a  little  on  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house, 
increasing  it  early  in  the  day,  and  having  it  free  from  55°  and  full  at  65°. 
When  the  pollen  is  dry  choose  the  warmest  and  driest  part  of  the  day 
for  aiding  its  distribution  by  shaking  the  trees  or  trellis,  or  taking  a 
camel  -  hair  brush  and  applying  it  to  the  stigmas.  If  there  be  any 
deficiency  of  pollen  of  any  variety  some  should  be  taken  from  those 
that  afford  it  plentifully.  Inside  borders  must  not  be  neglected  for  water, 
and  those  outside  should  be  protected  with  litter  or  similar  material 
against  frost, avoiding  fermenting  substances. 
Second  Early  Forced  Houses.— To  have  ripe  fruit  early  in  June  of 
such  varieties  as  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Stirling  Castle,  Dymond,  Royal 
George,  Noblesse,  Grosse  Mignonne,  and  Goshawk  Peaches,  Lord 
Napier.  Sranwick  Elruge,  Dryden,  and  Humboldt  Nectarines,  the  house 
must  be  set  to  work  at  once.  Damp  the  trees  and  house  in  the  forenoon 
and  early  afternoon,  turning  the  heat  on  in  the  morning  so  as  to  raise 
and  maintain  through  the  day  a  temperature  of  50°,  allowing  a  rise  to 
65°  with  sun  heat  and  free  ventilation  from  50°.  When  the  buds  swell 
keep  up  a  night  temperature  of  40°  to  45°.  Bring  the  border,  if  at  all 
dry,  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state  by  repeated  waterings.  Protect  the 
outside  border  with  litter  or  leaves,  but  not  of  a  depth  to  cause  the 
warmth  to  exceed  60°  to  65°. 
Succession  Houses. — It  is  not  sound  and  safe  practice  to  defer  pruning 
and  dressing  the  trees  until  the  buds  commence  swelling.  There  is  then 
danger  of  dislocating  the  blossom  buds  and  insecticides  are  more  or  less 
harmful.  If  any  trees  are  swelling  their  buds  more  rapidly  than  is 
desired,  as  occurs  when  the  houses  have  been  used  for  plants,  a  covering 
of  mats  over  the  lights  will  prevent  the  temperature  being  raised  by  sun 
heat  to  a  prejudicial  degree,  retarding  the  flowering  considerably.  Late 
flowering  is  mostly  a  sign  of  a  good  set,  the  sap  being  less  active  and 
does  not  evaporate  because  the  wood  is  riper,  thereby  not  exciting  root 
and  top  growth  unduly.  Where  the  roof  lights  are  off  there  will  be  no 
occasion  for  retarding  the  blossoms,  as  the  weather  will  do  that  far 
better  than  any  artificial  means. 
Late  Houses — Let  the  roof-lights  remain  off  these  until  the  blossom 
buds  swell.  Complete,  however,  the  pruning  and  dressing  of  the  trees 
and  cleansing  the  house  as  favourable  weather  for  such  work  permits. 
The  buds  take  no  harm  until  they  commence  swelling,  and  even  then  are 
proof  against  frost  until  the  flowers  show  clear  of  the  scales  of  the  buds. 
Then  the  lights  may  be  put  on,  for  which  there  is  usually  no  necessity 
until  middle  February  or  early  in  March.  Where  the  roof  lights  are 
fixed  air  must  be  given  to  the  fullest  extent,  keeping  as  cool  as  possible, 
and  taking  care  that  the  trees  do  not  suffer  from  lack  of  moisture  at 
the  roots. 
Cherry  House. — Trees  usually  Btarted  in  December  or  early  in  this 
month,  and  frost  being  excluded  from  the  house,  move  with  no  special 
excitement,  and  should  be  accelerated  by  applying  fire  heat,  so  as  to 
maintain  a  temperature  of  not  more  than  40°  at  night  and  45°  in  the 
daytime,  advancing  10°  from  sun  heat,  ventilating  at  50°  and  closing  at 
that  point.  Ventilate  very  freely  in  mild  weather,  and  avoid  hasty 
treatment  in  the  early  stages  of  growth.  Make  sure  that  no  deficiency 
of  moisture  exists  in  the  soil,  and  see  that  trees  in  pots  or  tubs  are  not 
neglected  for  water.  Sprinkle  the  trees  occasionally  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon  in  bright  weather,  but  avoid  keeping  them  dripping  with 
moisture,  and  ventilate  a  little  constantly,  as  a  close  atmosphere  weakens 
the  blossoms  even  when  they  are  enveloped  in  the  scales  of  the  buds. 
Cherries  can  hardly  be  brought  on  too  slowly  in  the  early  Btages  of 
forcing,  nor  can  they  be  too  closely  scrutinised  for  aphides.  When 
the  buds  commence  to  swell  these  pests  come  out  of  their  shells — the 
eggs,  therefore  fumigate  directly  the  first  trace  of  the  pests  is  seen, 
which  requires  a  keen  eye  or  the  aid  of  a  pocket  lens  to  discern 
them  before  they  do  mischief.  Tobacco  smoke  and  nicotine  vapour 
are  the  best  remedies. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — Proceed  steadily  with  plants  that  are  to 
give  fruit  at  a  stated  time,  for  any  hurrying  may  result  in  a  bad  set  and 
ill-shapen  fruits.  A  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  is  ample  for  those  started 
in  December,  that  not  being  exceeded  on  dull  days,  when  the  night  and 
day  temperature  vary  but  little,  and  60°  to  65°  in  the  daytime  with 
gleams  of  sun,  up  to  70°  to  75°  with  bright  sun  will  bring  the  plants  on 
quite  fast  enough  for  insuring  a  satisfactory  result.  Ventilate  whenever 
there  is  a  chance.  The  trusses  rise  boldest  and  the  flowers  are  strongest 
when  the  plants  have  the  foliage  sturdily  formed,  and  that  elaborates 
more  food  and  is  healthier  than  drawn  and  thin.  Close  atmosphere 
induces  soft  tissues,  weakly  organs  of  fructification,  imperfect  sets,  and 
deformed,  ill-shapen  fruit.  Newton  Wonder,  however,  seems  to  do  better 
in  moister  atmosphere  than  most  varieties,  even  Black  Prince  forgets  to 
mildew  when  it  is  syringed,  also  when  a  little  sulphur  is  placed  on  the 
hot- water  pipes  in  good  time,  so  that  the  fumes  make  speedy  work  of  the 
germinal  tubes  of  the  resting  spores  directly  they  rise  from  the  oosphore 
and  then  the  mildew  (Oi'dium  balsami)  is  not  in  evidence. 
Another  plague  is  the  aphis.  These  creatures  pass  the  winter 
in  the  egg  state  —  little  black  Bpecks  on  the  under  Bide  of  the 
leaves,  and  start  into  life  directly  the  growth  takes  place  in  the 
buds.  Therefore  keep  a  sharp  look  out  and  fumigate  with  tobacco, 
or  vaporise  with  nicotine  directly  the  first  is  seen,  and  repeat  at  intervals, 
for  it  does  not  answer  to  do  either  after  the  blossom  appear. 
Introduce  more  plants  to  shelves  in  Peach  houses  or  vineries  started 
about  this  time.  Rectify  the  drainage  of  the  pots,  remove  moss  or  other 
matter  from  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  wash  the  pots  clean.  Surface- 
dress  with  an  approved  fertiliser  mixed  with  a  little  thoroughly 
decayed  manure  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  There  is  nothing  better 
than  a  quart  of  soot  and  a  similar  amount  of  superphosphate 
mixed  with  a  bushel  of  turfy  loam  ;  or  blood  manure  (blood  dried 
ai)d  ground  to  a  powder),  and  superphosphate  in  equal  quantities 
and  amount  last  named,  are  excellent  for  stimulating  growth. 
Royal  Sovereign  is  a  good  variety  for  introducing  now,  also  Noble  and 
Auguste  Nicaise,  these  producing  large  fruit,  and  are  very  prolific. 
President,  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  and  Sir  Charles  Napier  may  also  be 
introduced,  but  to  maintain  the  succession  plants  of  La  Grosse  Sucr^e 
or  Vicomtesse  Hdricart  de  Thury  should  be  introduced  at  the  same  time. 
Lucas  is  one  of  the  best  forcing  Strawberries,  and  the  quality  is  unsur¬ 
passed.  It  is  a  neat  grower  and  deserves  extensive  cultivation,  but  is 
better  for  home  use  than  market. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Potatoes  in  Pots. — If  a  few  early  Potatoes  are  desired  they  can  be 
had  with  the  aid  of  pots  or  boxes.  A  sinele  set  may  be  placed  in  each 
8-inch  pot,  three  sets  going  in  a  12-inch.  Drain  lightly,  and  three  parts 
fill  with  light  loamy  compost,  a  mixture  of  two  parts  fibrous  loam  and 
one  part  old  Mushroom  bed  manure  answering  well.  Such  short-topped 
varieties  as  the  Old  Ashleaf,  Mona’s  Pride,  Sharpe’s  Victory,  and  Early 
Frame  are  the  most  suitable,  and  each  set  ought  to  have  a  strong  sprout 
already  formed  on  it.  Press  them  well  into  the  soil,  and  just  cover  the 
sprouts,  this  allowing  room  for  a  top-dressing  to  be  given  when  the 
points  of  the  shoots  are  level  with  the  top  of  the  pots.  These  may  be 
arranged  in  light  positions  on  the  borders  in  newly  started  vineries  or 
Peach  houses,  or  on  Bhelves  in  the  same  class  of  houses.  Not  much 
water  will  be  needed  for  a  time,  but  when  once  rooting  strongly  treat 
exactly  the  same  as  other  pot  plants,  liquid  manure  being  given 
occasionally.  Near  to  the  glasB  in  a  pit,  with  a  mild  hotbed  of  leaves 
and  manure,  suits  Potatoes  in  pots  well. 
Forcing  Potatoes  in  Pits  and  Frames. — Those  who  have  abundance 
of  pit  room,  or  the  requisite  number  of  deep  frames,  ought  to  take 
advantage  of  mild  open  weather  to  prepare  beds  for  early  Potatoes. 
In  the  former  case  a  mild  hotbed,  largely  composed  of  oak  or  other 
leaves  in  preference  to  stable  manure,  should  be  formed  of  sufficient 
depth  to  bring  the  soil  placed  on  it  well  up  to  the  glass.  If  frames  are 
used  set  them  on  hotbeds  made  a  foot  wider  all  round,  30  inches  to 
3  feet  high  in  front,  and  from  42  inches  to  4  feet  high  at  the  back,  this 
giving  them  a  good  slope  to  the  front.  Make  the  beds  somewhat  firmly 
with  a  view  to  having  a  sweet,  gentle,  and  lasting  heat.  Cover  the 
surface  of  the  bed  with  short  manure,  placing  on  this  about  10  inches  of 
light  loamy  soil.  When  the  trial  sticks  plunged  in  the  hotbeds  can, 
when  withdrawn,  be  borne  comfortably  in  the  palm  of  the  hand,  the 
time  has  arrived  for  planting.  Form  drills,  6  inches  deep  and  from 
15  inches  to  18  inches  apart,  from  the  back  to  the  front  of  the  pits  or 
frames,  and  plant  the  previously  strongly  sprouted  sets  from  6  to 
8  inches  apart.  Level  down  enough  soil  to  cover  the  sprouts,  and  draw 
more  up  to  them  when  well  through  the  soil.  The  varieties  already 
mentioned  are  suitable.  Have  plenty  of  mats,  or  these  and  dry  strawy 
litter,  for  covering  the  frames  every  night,  affording  extra  protection 
whenever  severe  frosts  are  imminent. 
Stored  Potatoes.  —  The  mild  weather  hitherto  experienced  has 
been  conducive  to  the  premature  sprouting  of  Potatoes,  particularly 
where  stored  in  the  dark.  This  sprouting,  unless  early  checked,  spoils 
the  quality  of  cooking  Potatoes,  and  has  a  most  prejudicial  effect  on 
those  intended  for  planting.  Those  “  pitted  ”  ought  to  be  examined, 
and  if  beginning  to  sprout  be  completely  uncovered,  and  the  heap 
systematically  turned.  Throw  out  any  diseased,  and  if  not  previously 
done  divide  the  larger  or  “ware”  tubers  from  those  intended  for 
planting  purposes.  If  not  possible  to  place  the  planting  tubers  in  a 
shed  or  light  cellar,  where  they  can  be  kept  cool  and  light  admitted  to 
them,  store  in  a  separate  heap,  strawing  and  sorting  over  as  before. 
Heaps  in  outhouses  ought  also  to  be  turned  and  cleared  of  sprouts. 
All  may  need  additional  protection  any  time  during  January  and 
February. 
Carrots  and  Radishes.  —  What  has  already  been  advanced 
concerning  the  preparation  of  beds,  pits  and  frames  for  Potatoes 
