50 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
January  16,  1896. 
book  is  exceedingly  interesting,  looked  at  from  to-day’s  knowledge, 
but  it  is  certain  that  Mr.  John  Rogers  was  one  of  the  keenest 
observers  in  regard  to  fruit  culture  of  some  sixty  years  since. — 
A.  Dean. 
HOTBEDS  AND  THEIR  USES. 
Hotbeos  do  not  play  so  important  a  part  in  the  production  of 
garden  crops  as  they  did  half  a  century  ago,  and  judging  by  what 
those  sturdy  veterans  of  the  old  school  of  gardeners  tell  us,  we  may 
be  thankful  that  things  have  changed,  for  their  description  of 
the  immense  amount  of  work  and  constant  attention  necessary  to 
produce  very  early  crops  of  Melons  and  Cucumbers  in  frames,  I 
think  quite  justifies  the  assumption  that  horticultural  progress  has 
in  many  respects  brought  brighter  times  to  the  rank  and  file  of  its 
workers. 
Cheap  glass  structures,  and  improved  methods  of  heating 
them,  have  rendered  forcing  of  all  descriptions  a  comparatively 
easy  matter.  Still  there  are  instances  innumerable  in  which  hotbeds 
are  of  immense  service  to  the  cultivator,  and  I  have  strong  doubts 
about  their  ever  being  entirely  dispensed  with.  It  is  therefore 
necessary  that  all  young  gardeners  should  know  how  to  make  them 
properly,  and  that  others  should  at  this  season  be  reminded  of  the 
many  uses  to  which  hotbeds  may  be  put. 
In  preparing  the  materials  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  two  heaps, 
one  for  beds  in  which  it  is  necessary  to  maintain  a  brisk  heat,  the 
other  for  beds  in  which  a  constant  but  only  gentle  heat  is  required. 
In  the  former  two  parts  stable  manure  should  be  mixed  with  one 
of  leaves,  in  the  latter  the  leaves  ought  to  form  rather  the  larger 
proportion.  In  selecting  the  stable  manure  for  this  purpose  give 
preference  to  that  which  is  moderately  fresh,  moist  and  full  of 
heat,  rejecting  any  very  dry,  long,  strawy  and  exhausted  parts. 
After  carting  this,  together  with  a  sufficient  number  of  leaves, 
to  the  frame  ground,  the  whole  is  ready  for  mixing.  In  doing 
this  separate  the  materials  thoroughly  with  a  fork,  and  throw  into 
a  conical  shaped  heap.  After  four  or  five  days  this  should  be 
turned  over  and  again  well  shaken  as  the  work  proceeds,  so  as  to 
allow  the  rank  steam  to  escape.  In  some  instances  a  second 
turning  will  be  necessary  after  a  couple  of  days,  because  it  is 
always”  desirable  to  avoid  a  violent  heat  after  the  bed  is  made 
up,  as  this  causes  the  material  to  become  dry  in  the  centre,  and  the 
heat  declines  as  rapidly  as  it  rose. 
When  making  up  hotbeds  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  or  for 
rooting  cuttings  of  soft-wooded  plants,  provision  must  be  made  for 
renewing  the  heat  by  means  of  linings.  With  this  object  in  view 
the  bed  should  be  only  a  few  inches  wider  all  round  than  the  frame 
to  be  placed  on  it.  Tread  the  material  very  firmly  as  they  are 
placed  on  in  thin  layers,  and  when  completed  the  back  ought  to  be 
from  5  to  6  feet  in  height  and  the  front  a  foot  less.  After  placing 
the  frame  in  position  drive  some  long  stakes  into  the  bed,  close  to 
the  inside  of  the  frame. 
Against  these  place  boards  a  foot  in  width,  letting  them  rest 
against  the  stakes.  When  the  soil  is  added  these  boards  will  be 
kept  in  position  and  a  space  of  an  inch  or  so  secured  between  them 
and  the  inner  side  of  the  frame.  This  space  will  allow  some  of  the 
heat  to  escape  from  the  bed  and  maintain  a  uniform  top  tempera¬ 
ture.  Whenever  the  heat  shows  signs  of  declining  a  lining  2  feet 
in  thickness  ought  to  be  placed  round  the  bed,  and  carried  to  the 
top  of  the  frame.  These  usually  require  renewal  about  once  a 
fortnight. 
During  February  and  March,  if  the  weather  is  not  exceptionally 
severe,  beds  made  up  in  this  way  and  covered  with  6  inches  of 
cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  instead  of  soil  (as  in  the  case  of  Cucumbers), 
are  exceeding  useful  for  rooting  cuttings  of  Lobelias,  Alternantheras, 
Ageratums,  Verbenas,  as  well  as  those  of  many  other  plants.  At 
that  season  the  propagating  house  is  usually  taxed  to  its  utmost 
capacity,  and  a  homely  hotbed  and  frame  of  the  old  type,  as  above 
described,  is  by  no  means  to  be  despised. 
Hotbeds  made  for  forcing  Rhubarb,  Asparagus,  Carrots,  and 
Radishes,  and  Potatoes  seldom  require  the  addition  of  lining*. 
The  bed  should,  therefore,  have  a  margin  of  2  feet  all  round  the 
frame,  when  this  is  placed  on  it.  This  allows  plenty  of  space 
for  walking  round  the  frame  when  attention  is  required,  and  also 
by  giving  greater  bulk  to  the  bed  helps  to  maintain  a  steady  heat 
for  a  long  time.  Hotbeds  of  this  type  are  also  admirably  adapted 
for  raising  early  plants  of  Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  Cabbage,  Leeks, 
Celery  and  Parsley. 
In  addition  to  hotbeds  of  the  above  descriptions  there  are  the 
simpler  ones  formed  in  pits — for  in  all  well-appointed  gardens  there 
exist  a  number  of  brick  pits—  unheated  ;  these  are  especially 
adapted  for  growing  early  Potatoes,  Carrots  and  Radishes,  or  for 
raising  half-hardy  annuals.  When  filling  these  all  that  is  necessary 
is  to  procure  the  fermenting  material  from  the  prepared  heap  in 
which  the  leaves  form  the  greater  proportion,  place  this  in  even 
layers,  and  tread  firmly  as  the  work  proceeds.  When  completed  a 
layer  of  soil  should  be  placed  on  the  surface  at  once,  *o  as  to 
become  thoroughly  warmed  before  seeds  are  sown  or  Potatoes  are 
planted,  in  all  instances  inserting  a  stick  deeply  into  the  fermenting 
material.  This  must  be  examined  daily  to  find  out  when  the  heat 
begins  to  decline.  All  is  then  safe  for  the  reception  of  seeds  or 
plants. 
I  ought  to  add  that  the  usual  and  necessary  precautions  of 
leaving  (for  a  few  days)  a  chink  of  air  on  the  back  of  the  lights 
should  be  taken  to  allow  the  rank  steam  or  ammonia  to  escape, 
otherwise  disaster  will  be  the  result  if  plants  with  tender  foliage 
happen  to  be  placed  in  the  pits  or  frames. — W.  D. 
PROPAGATING  VINES. 
Anyone  with  even  limited  convenience  need  not  experience 
much  difficulty  in  raising  Vines.  There  are  several  methods  of  pro¬ 
pagating,  but  the  best  is  from  eyes.  They  should  be  selected  from 
Vines  true  to  name,  healthy,  and  fruitful.  The  wood  must  not  be 
too  strong  or  contain  much  pith,  neither  must  it  be  too  weak. 
Medium-sized  hard  growths  are  the  best.  The  eyes  ought  to  be 
inserted  as  soon  after  the  first  week  in  January  as  possible.  In 
preparing  them  select  a  suitable  bud,  one  that  is  round,  not  pointed, 
and  with  the  protecting  skin  unbroken.  Hold  the  eye  firmly  in  the 
left  hand,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  under  side  of  the  shoot 
in  a  slanting  direction,  terminating  about  1  inch  from  the  bud. 
Reverse  the  shoot,  and  cut  in  a  similar  manner  in  the  opposite 
direction.  Pare  the  edges  of  the  bark  smoothly,  as  this  will 
facilitate  root  formation.  Insert  each  eye  in  a  clean,  drained 
2^-inch  pot  three  parts  filled  with  a  compost  of  two  parts  fibry 
loam,  one  part  of  leaf  soil,  and  a  sixth  part  of  silver  sand  passed 
through  a  fine  mesh  sieve.  Press  the  soil  down  firmly,  and  let  the 
bud  just  show  above  the  surface.  If  the  soil  is  moist,  as  it 
should  be,  only  a  light  sprinkling  of  water  will  be  required  to  settle 
the  particles  round  the  eyes. 
Plunging  the  pots  in  ashes,  sand,  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  on 
the  stage  of  the  greenhouse  or  vinery  will  maintain  the  soil  in  a 
moist  state.  Two  or  three  weeks  afterwards  transfer  to  a  hotbed 
or  any  place  where  bottom  heat  of  60°  can  be  had  to  start  with, 
increasing  it  to  70°  in  two  or  three  weeks  time.  The  soil  must  be 
maintained  in  a  moist  state  with  tepid  water,  and  we  must  strive 
for  free  growth  from  the  time  when  the  bud  makes  its  first  signs 
of  life.  When  the  pots  are  nearly  full  of  roots,  and  the  plants 
from  1  to  3  inches  high  shift  into  4-inch  size,  using  the  same  kind 
of  compost  as  before,  but  rougher  with  the  addition  of  a  small 
quantity  of  partly  decomposed  horse  manure.  The  pots  must  be 
carefully  drained,  and  the  soil  warmed  to  avoid  a  check  to  the 
tender  roots.  Return  the  pots  to  the  bottom  heat  position  for  a 
time  until  new  growth  is  made  at  the  roots,  afterwards  a  position 
near  the  glass  will  answer  best,  and  if  a  moist  base  can  be  provided 
so  much  the  better.  On  no  account  must  the  roots  be  allowed  to 
suffer  by  want  of  water,  or  red  spider  and  thrips  will  soon  attack 
the  foliage. 
When  the  roots  reach  the  sides  of  the  pots,  but  before  the  Vines 
are  in  any  way  root- bound,  larger  sizes  must  be  provided  for  them. 
Those  10  inches  in  diameter  are  best  for  the  stronger  plants,  pots 
an  inch  less  sufficing  for  the  weaker.  The  compost  for  this 
potting  should  consist  of  three  parts  fibry  loam  and  one  of  partly 
decayed  horse  manure,  with  a  sprinkling  of  ground  bones  and 
crushed  lime  rubble.  A  depth  of  2  inches  of  drainage  should  be 
provided,  and  this  well  protected  with  turf.  In  potting  allow  at 
least  1|  inch  of  space  at  the  top  for  enabling  sufficient  water  to  be 
given,  as  much  will  be  required  when  these  pots  are  filled  with  roots. 
Secure  the  growths  to  stakes  in  a  sunny  position,  so  that  the 
canes  will  be  short-jointed  and  firm.  The  temperature  should  not 
fall  below  60°  until  growth  is  completed  in  the  autumn.  Draughts 
of  cold  air  must  at  all  times  be  avoided,  as  they  predispose  to 
mildew,  which  is  about  the  worst  enemy  a  Vine  can  have.  The 
foliage  should  be  syringed  twice  daily  with  tepid  water,  closing 
the  house  early  to  insure  a  moist  atmosphere,  which  Vines  enjoy  ; 
they  equally  appreciate  abundant  supplies  of  fresh  air  when 
admitted  in  a  proper  manner. 
When  the  pots  are  full  of  root*  copious  supplies  of  weak  liquid 
manure  may  be  supplied  alternately  with  clear  water,  all  lateral 
growths  being  promptly  pinched  off,  retaining  the  upright  growth 
of  the  stem  intact.  When  the  canes  by  their  colour  show  signs  of 
ripening  and  the  leaves  of  maturity,  syringing  should  cease. 
Abundance  of  air  ought  to  be  admitted  day  and  night  for  two  or 
three  weeks,  and  afterwards  the  Vines  may  be  placed  out  of  doors, 
standing  the  pots  on  a  thick  bed  of  coal  ashes  or  boards  at  the  foot 
of  a  south  wall  for  completing  the  ripening  of  the  wood.  The 
canes  should  be  secured  to  the  wall,  the  roots  kept  moist,  but  not 
wet,  as  an  excess  of  water  would  defeat  the  object  in  view.— 
E.  Molyneux. 
