January  16,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
61 
an  excellent  start  has  been  made,  the  plants  having  been  procured  from 
various  quarters.  As  the  Superintendent  is  a  botanist  this  feature  will 
doubtless  be  thoroughly  worked.  The  garden  is  cut  up  into  small  beds, 
some  of  which  contained  in  the  summer  their  permanent  occupants, 
while  others  for  which  the  stock  had  not  then  been  received  were  filled 
with  annuals  which  served  to  cover  any  signs  of  bareness  that  would 
otherwise  have  been  apparent.  Although  the  collection  is  still  in  its 
infancy,  and  of  course  very  incomplete,  much  interest  is  already  evinced 
by  visitors,  and  it  is  thought  that  this  will  increase  with  the  advance¬ 
ment  of  the  gardens.  Passing  on  into  the  wild  garden,  a  very  different 
state  of  affairs  is  noticeable,  for  here  the  endeavour  has  been  to  obtain 
as  natural  an  effect  as  possible.  The  scheme  has  been  a  striking  success, 
and  the  views  formed  in  this  limited  area  are  varied,  beautiful,  and  quite 
surprising.  The  glimpses  caught  between  the  trees  of  a  small  stream 
running  through  the  garden  are  exceedingly  picturesque,  and  must  cause 
surprise  to  everyone  who  sees  them  for  the  first  time. 
From  the  chief  place  we  may  with  advantage  adjourn  to  one  or  two 
of  the  smaller  ones,  of  which  Canton  and  Ely  Commons  are  the  most 
noteworthy.  When  the  laying  out  is  entirely  finished  these  will  be  well 
deserving  of  being  called  parks  instead  of  commons,  for  the  best  possible 
attention  is  being  given  to  every  detail  so  as  to  insure  success.  Foliage 
and  flowering  shrubs  and  trees  will  be  greatly  in  evidence,  while  small 
expanses  of  water  will  be  present  to  lend  variety  and  added  charms. 
Then  there  are  the  fourteen  smaller  spaces,  of  which  individual  mention 
would  be  neither  possible  nor  desirable,  especially  as  they  are  all  more 
or  less  of  the  same  nature.  Of  course,  there  are  various  shapes  included 
amongst  the  different  sizes ;  thus  all,  with  the  aid  of  almost  identical 
plants,  are  made  to  present  fresh  features.  One  to  which  a  visit  was 
paid  was  surrounded  by  broad  borders  filled  with  biennial  and  perennial 
flowering  and  foliage  plants,  the  centre  being  grass  with  an  occasional 
bed.  The  surface  was  undulating,  the  grass  closely  mown  and  very 
thick,  and  the  effect  was  charming  in  the  extreme.  A  bandstand  also 
adorned  this  ench  sure,  underneath  which  had  been  formed  a  shed  as  a 
place  for  necessary  tools,  thus  putting  the  stand  to  two  good  uses.  Each 
Bpace  has  a  caretaker  in  charge,  over  whose  resting-box  appear  the  words, 
“  Villa  Cardiff,”  with  the  coat  of  arms. 
In  the  preceding  notes  it  has  been  the  writer’s  endeavour  to  convey 
some  idea  of  the  parks  and  gardens  of  Cardiff  to  readers  of  the 
Journal  of  Horticulture ,  though  everyone  would  obviously  obtain  a 
better  conception  by  paying  a  personal  visit.  In  such  a  notice  as  this  it 
can  scarcely  be  expected  that  justice  could  be  done  either  to  the 
municipal  authorities  or  to  Mr.  Pettigrew,  but  doubtless  sufficient  has 
been  said  to  justify  the  assumption  expressed  towards  the  commencement, 
that  Cardiff  as  regards  parks  and  open  spaces  must  be  accorded  a 
prominent  place  in  the  van.  The  future  holds  great  possibilities,  and 
their  realisation  will  be  watched  by  no  one  more  closely  than  by — 
Nomad. 
WORKfouthe  WEEK? 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting:  Fruit  Trees  and  Bushes. — So  long  as  the  weather 
remains  open,  and  the  ground  is  comparatively  dry,  the  arrears  of 
planting  may  be  completed.  Whether  planting  is  being  proceeded  with 
or  not  all  young  trees  or  bushes  that  are  being  received  for  this  purpose 
should  immediately  be  laid  in  in  shallow  trenches,  the  injured  parts  of 
roots  cut  away,  and  the  remainder  carefully  covered  with  soil  of  a  light 
character.  No  tree  ought  to  be  taken  from  these  temporary  quarters 
until  the  position  for  its  permanent  occupation  is  actually  ready  for  its 
reception.  There  is  then  no  injury  to  the  delicate  young  fibres  which 
may  have  formed  since  laying  in,  nor  do  the  rootlets  become  dried  from 
harsh,  cold  winds.  Much  depends  on  the  care  of  the  roots  and  the 
manner  of  planting.  The  cuts  on  the  roots  should  be  made  from  below 
upwards,  making  each  clean  and  smooth.  In  planting  spread  out  the 
roots  horizontally  to  their  fullest  extent,  the  holes  being  formed  wide 
enough  in  the  first  instance  to  admit  them.  Some  of  the  larger  trees 
will  have  roots  in  layers  or  courses.  These  ought  to  be  spread  out 
separately  and  covered  with  soil  from  the  stem  outwards  before  the 
next  course  of  roots  is  dealt  with  in  the  same  way.  Moderately  dry  soil 
is  the  best  to  use  at  this  season,  and  it  may  be  composed  of  loam,  old 
potting  soil,  and  wood  ashes.  Stake  and  tie  the  trees  as  planted  to 
prevent  the  wind  disturbing  them. 
Mulching:. — All  newly  planted  fruit  trees  require  a  covering  of  half- 
decayed  manure  laid  on  the  ground  over  the  roots.  This  not  only 
prevents  the  rapid  cooling  of  the  soil,  but  is  a  safeguard  against  frost 
entering  too  deeply.  A  manurial  mulching  is  of  great  import¬ 
ance  in  checking  excessive  evaporation  consequent  on  the  drying 
east  winds  of  the  spring,  yet  admitting  the  warming  influence  of 
spring  sunshine,  which  is  required  to  promote  the  activity  of  the  roots 
so  as  to  encourage  free  growth  of  wood.  Old-established  trees  are 
benefited  by  a  liberal  mulching  of  decayed  manure,  especially  if  they 
have  in  the  previous  year  produced  a  heavy  crop  of  fruit,  or  are  weakly 
in  growth  owing  to  partial  exhaustion  of  food  material  in  the  soil.  A 
nitrogenous  and  potassic  manure,  such  as  a  mixture  of  bonemeal  and 
kainit,  applied  at  the  rate  of  4  ozs.  to  the  square  yard,  will  also  be 
beneficial,  spreading  the  mixture  only  over  the  roots  which  ramify  in 
the  soil  as  far  as  the  branches  extend.  Soot  is  an  excellent  manure  for 
dressing  bush  trees.  It  contains  ammonia  and  is  tolerably  quick  in 
action.  Besides  being  useful  as  manure  it  is  detrimental  to  insect  life, 
whether  established  on  the  trees  or  hybernating  in  the  soil.  Make  the 
soil  black  with  the  soot,  or  dust  over  the  trees  when  the  latter  are  wet. 
That  which  adheres  to  the  branches  and  shoots  acts  as  a  cleanser,  and 
affords  some  protection  to  the  buds  from  the  depredations  of  sparrows, 
bullfinches,  and  starlings. 
Pruning:. — Newly  planted  fruit  trees  should  not  be  pruned  until  the 
sap  begins  to  move.  Established  trees,  pyramids,  bushes,  cordons, 
espaliers  and  wall  trees  ought  to  have  the  pruning  completed,  dealing  with 
Apples,  Bears,  Blums  and  Cherries  first,  finishing  with  Apricots,  Beaches, 
and  Nectarines.  Gooseberries,  if  left  over  for  late  pruning,  ought  to  be 
attended  to  before  they  burst  into  growth,  but  early  pruning  is  desirable, 
protecting  the  buds  from  birds  by  dustings  of  lime  or  soot,  or  strings  of 
black  cotton.  Prune  the  dead  wood  from  Raspberry  stools,  also  the 
weakest  canes,  shortening  the  strong  ones  to  ripe  parts.  Fresh 
plantations  of  Raspberries  must  have  the  whole  of  the  growths 
shortened  closely  to  the  ground  so  that  the  stools  may  throw  up  strong 
growths  during  the  season,  and  thus  become  firmly  established  before 
allowing  them  to  bear  the  succeeding  season.  It  is  well  to  treat  newly 
planted  Blackberries  in  the  same  wav,  sacrificing  fruit  the  first  season. 
Red  and  White  Currants  as  wall  trees  may  be  furnished  with  main 
branches  9  inches  apart,  trained  vertically,  the  side  shoots  being  pruned 
to  within  an  inch  each  season,  the  leading  shoots  to  8  inches.  Treat 
Gooseberries  on  walls  the  same.  Black  Currants  are  not  usually  grown 
on  walls,  they  furnishing  the  best  crops  as  bushes  in  the  open,  retaining 
a  fair  amount  of  strong  young  growths,  and  thinning  out  the  old 
fruiting  shoots. 
Cutting-  Scions  for  Grafting. — Select  healthy  lengths  of  the 
current  year’s  wood  from  the  special  varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears  it  is 
desirable  to  establish  on  healthy  vigorous  stocks.  The  scions  must  be 
correctly  labelled  and  then  laid  in  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall  in  moist 
soil  or  sand,  the  object  being  to  keep  them  quite  dormant  until  the 
grafting  season  arrives. 
Heading  Sown  Stocks  for  Grafting.— The  present  i9  a  suitable 
time  to  cut  down  the  large  branches  of  trees  intended  for  grafting.  In 
removing  the  branches,  cut  them  for  the  present  a  few  inches  above 
the  place  intended  for  inserting  the  scions,  and  be  careful  not  to  run 
the  risk  of  tearing  the  bark  by  omitting  to  make  a  back  cut  with  the 
saw  on  the  underside  before  the  incision  on  the  upper  side  has  pro¬ 
gressed  too  far. 
Strawberry  Beds. — Plantations  of  Strawberries  that  have  not  yet 
been  cleared  of  runners,  dead  foliage,  and  weeds  ought  at  once  to  be 
attended  to,  lightly  forking  the  Boil  down  the  centre  of  the  rows,  bat  not 
disturbing  the  fibrous  roots.  Afterwards  lay  down  a  good  coating  of 
decayed  manure,  which  will  prove  of  great  benefit.  When  the  surface 
has  dried  somewhat  between  the  rows  of  young  plants  a  light  hoeing 
may  be  given,  continuing  it  at  intervals,  which  will  be  of  more  frequent 
recurrence  as  the  season  advances. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots, — When  the  Vines  have  developed 
growth  and  foliage,  root  action,  provided  the  medium  is  in  a  suitable 
condition,  proceeds  rapidly,  as  the  evaporation  of  water  from  the  leaves 
is  considerable  during  daylight  and  the  atmosphere  drier  in  consequence 
of  the  sun’s  influence  or  from  ventilation  ;  therefore  the  roots  must 
imbibe  the  requisite  amount  of  soil  water,  and  with  it  the  hydrogenic, 
oxygenic,  and  nitrogenic  elements,  as  well  as  those  of  a  mineral  nature, 
for  the  purposes  of  elaboration,  assimilation,  and  building  up  of  the 
structures  of  the  Vines  and  Grapes.  A  sodden  soil  does  not  favour  the 
emission  of  roots,  or  the  chemical  changes  taking  place  that  are  essential 
to  a  proper  supply  of  wholesome  food.  Many  failures  with  Vines  in 
pots  arise  from  this  cause — too  much  water  or  too  wet  soil  in  the  early 
stages  of  forcing — and  the  foliage  frequently  flags  under  bright  sun 
when  the  soil  is  saturated.  This  simply  because  the  Vine  has  not 
sufficient  root-imbibing  power  to  take  up  the  amount  of  water  requisite 
to  maintain  the  supply  equal  to  that  of  evaporation  by  the  leaves.  A 
similar  state  of  affairs  occurs  when  the  soil  is  not  sufficiently  moist  and 
the  roots  are  in  a  condition  to  supply  water  (and  that  means  food)  as 
fast  or  faster  than  it  is  evaporated  by  the  foliage.  This  means  a  great 
deal  in  the  cultivation  of  Grapes,  for  the  more  water  evaporated  the 
greater  the  amount  of  solid  matter  in  the  plant.  Up  to  leaf  formation 
Vines  in  pots  should  be  kept  on  the  dry  rather  than  the  excess  side 
of  moisture  at  the  roots  ;  then  they  will  form  fresh  rootlets,  and  be  in  a 
position  to  absorb  and  transmit  abundant  supplies  of  nourishment.  This 
is  absolutely  essential  after  the  first-formed  leaves  are  full  sized,  but  at 
no  time  may  the  supplies  be  such  as  to  produce  a  saddened  condition, 
for  it  is  only  when  the  soil  is  getting  somewhat  dry  that  water  is 
necessary  and  can  possibly  refresh.  The  thing  is  to  give  it  before  there 
is  distress  by  lack  of  it,  and  then  abundantly,  so  as  to  thoroughly 
moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage. 
During  flowering  the  Vines  should  have  a  night  temperature  of  70°.* 
and  5°  more  artificially  by  day,  with  10°  to  15°  rise  from  sun  heat, 
Attend  to  thinning  as  soon  as  the  berries  are  swelling  ;  indeed,  it  should 
be  done  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  set,  for  the  varieties  usually  forced  are 
free-setting,  and  the  best  berries  can  be  detected  from  the  inferior 
directly  after  flowering  is  over.  Encourage  growth  above  the  fruit,  yet 
